Auto-SummaryPhenoDreamers shares a modified AIO technique called Lunchbox Tek (LB Tek) designed for cultivating difficult Psilocybe species, especially those in sections like Semilanceatae and Cordisporae. The method uses whole grains instead of grain flour to avoid creating a dense substrate, emphasizing small-scale trials rather than high yield. The process involves preparing a spawn mix of vermiculite and dark rye flour, combining it with a species-specific substrate, and sterilizing in PP5 containers with gas exchange holes. The guide stresses the importance of using hydrogen peroxide for sterilization and highlights the role of inaturalist for habitat research. It also acknowledges the influence of VL's EF Tek while offering a unique approach for novelty and wood-loving species, focusing on controlled colonization and consolidation before fruiting.
UPDATE 8/29/26:
I've been meaning to post this update forever but kept forgetting and whatever. This method is EXCELLENT for strict woodlovers, I.e. Section Subaeruginosae. This is the ONLY section I would consider STRICT WOODLOVERS, seeing as they get 100% of their fruiting nutrients from wood and wood alone. Sections Caerulescentes and parts of Semilanceatae are woodlovers too. However, these sections may be just as dependent on grain as they are with wood. The use of grain flour over whole grains provides significantly less nutrients for mushrooms to fruit from. With that being said, you will NOT achieve dense canopies with many species using this method. I know what you're thinking, you'll just up the grain flour amount. Yeah, I've tried that. This will just turn your substrate into a dense paste and I don't recommend doing this. If you're simply trying to just fruit a species just to fruit it, or to get to the next generation, then this method WILL work with any saprotrophic species. If it's yield you're after though, you can Do this same method, but instead of using grain flour, just use whole grains.
-Fill a small bucket half way with whole grains.
-Dump BOILING water in the bucket and snap a lid on two sides of the bucket. Leave part of the lid not snapped down to vent a little bit.
-Wait 12-16 hours.
-Dump the grains out and let them dry a bit.
-Mix the grains into a substrate of your choosing at a ratio of no less than 1:3 grain to sub.
-Proceed with the rest of the Tek.
I have yet to test the potential of replacing excessive grain with manure to see if this would work as a viable alternative. Please update me if you do!
First and foremost, this is nothing short of a rip off from VL's EF Tek, which can you find HERE. I had no idea this Tek existed until it was pointed out to me after discussing my new method. However, VL is a legend and credit is given where it is due.
So let's get to it!
No more grain and no more shame! Phenodreamers guide to LB Tek, a modified AIO method for success!
First things first, this method was developed specifically for difficult novelty exotic species primarily in Section Semilanceatae and Section Cordisporae. If you've ever worked with species in this section, you'll know they're slow and can find them especially difficult to colonize grain. Even when accomplishing that, the chances of the culture stalling when spawning to bulk are high. These species are especially delicate.
However, this method works great for all species within the respective genus and even more genera. Surely there's better results for something like Section Cubensae, but if you're truly struggling hard, I would like to encourage you to give this method a try. This is not a method for yeild, as the containers used are very small. This is a method for trial and error essentially or to achieve just enough for yourself a few times. I can guarantee results though!
Tools and materials needed:
-Pressure cooker capable of achieving 15PSI.
-Healthy LC with clamp connections confirmed.
-PP5 meal prep containers.
-Adhesive filter material (I use paper micropore tape.)
-Torch for heating.
-Needle pick.
-Various substrates depending on the species.
-Dark rye flour or another whole cereal flour.
-Vermiculite.
-Large mixing container such as a bucket.
-Gloves
-Face mask and/or well ventilated area (for melting holes in plastic and using dry vermiculite and cereal flour.
The Process:
Start with a species of your choosing. Now some species get all the nutrients they need from the spawn source alone (like Section Zapotecorum for example.) Anything in this section just needs a spawn source (whole cereal flour) and a substrate to be used as a water reservoir (such as coco coir.) If your attempting a more novelty species, such as P. caerulipes, then you're going to have to use a more specific substrate. To figure this out, were going to use inaturalist. Go to a search engine on the Internet and type in "Psilocybe caerulipes inaturalist" and click the inaturalist link. Make sure you click on the "about" section and then scroll down to "habitat" and read the description.
"Psilocybe caerulipes may be found growing solitary to cespitose, in deciduous forests on hardwood slash and debris, plant matter, on or about decaying hardwood logs, birch, beech and maple."
Now go back up to the top of the page and study the pictures. When you click on these pictures twice, it will take you to the specific observation of that picture. Some inaturalist users will include detailed pictures and notes about their observations. From here you can draw the conclusion of what you want to use as a substrate. I had success with using beech chips from Amazon and coir.
In a bucket mix, by volume, 2 parts vermiculite to 1 part dark rye flour. This will be the spawn. I like to keep a 5 gallon bucket of this dry mixture on hand at all times. So I make a lot at once.
In another bucket, mix the substrate of your choosing. For caerulipes I will use beech chips that I soaked for a couple days for maximum hydration and hydrated coir (for water retention.) You can do equal parts of each or play around with percentages of your choosing. You're a pioneer in this field now and experimentation is encouraged! This is uncharted territory and most people cannot tell you exactly what substrate is best for such a rare cultivation. Now add 15-20% of your spawn mixture. Then slowly add tap water and bring to field capacity or slightly under. It is better to be more on the dry side than the wet side.
Load the mixture into your meal prep containers and do not compress the substrate. I like to use the Mainstays brand containers from Walmart. Pay attention to the picture on the package and make sure you don't get the divided containers. Some of them come in mixed sets. I like to use this brand specifically because of the curvature of the lid. They can be stacked without the gas exchange holes getting blocked.
Wipe the lips of every container to make sure there are no loose debris to catch contaminations post cook. Snap the lid on and repeat the process until the substrate is gone. The substrate is nutrified and cannot be saved for later. It will mold quickly. If you must save some, freeze it.
Now with the containers stacked. Take a torch and a needle pick and melt a single hole in the lid on one or two sides of all of the containers for gas exchange. Make sure you put the hole where it won't get blocked when the containers are stacked. Deburr the melted GE holes with your finger nails or something to make sure there's no sharp edges to stab a hole in your filter material. Then cover all of the holes with filter material of your choosing. These containers will be sterilized so the filter is absolutely crucial!
Sterilize containers to the same amount of time and pressure you would sterilize grain. I do 15 PSI for 1.5 to 2 hours. It is crucial that you do a slow temperature rise and cook at the lowest setting possible to achieve proper venting and pressure. This way the containers do not melt or become deformed. Let cool overnight. Place the containers in your SAB or FFU. Spray the entire outside of the container heavily with hydrogen peroxide. 3% is what I use. Just the brown bottle from the store. DO NOT use isopropyl alcohol. Hydrogen peroxide is significantly better than ISO. Make sure you're wearing gloves of course. Hydrogen peroxide is corrosive. If you get some on your skin and it starts burning, use a dish sponge and scrub it a little bit with dish soap. (I posted this Tek on another platform and a user commented, saying that he's been doing it for years and would load the containers in a myco bag before cooking. This way the outside of the containers remain sterile before inoculating.) Spray all your tools with hydrogen peroxide and outside of your liquid culture as well. Remember these are sterile and need to be treated exactly how you would treat a clean agar dish. The only difference is that they're bigger and more bulky so there is more room for error when it comes to technique. This is where the hydrogen peroxide will save your sloppiness.
Let the contents sit for a couple minutes to sanitize. For the 7" x 5" meal prep containers (I forgot the exact size.) I like to use 10ml per tray. This is the perfect amount for fastest colonization. With your LC syringe or mechanical pipettor, squirt LC in a zig-zag pattern across the entire surface of the substrate. Try to cover everything. Snap the lid back on and let the outside of the container dry in front of the FFU or SAB. Especially if you're using filter material that is not hydrophobic.
Let colonize to 100% and then consolidate for a MINIMUM of 2 weeks at room temperature. Now depending what the species is you're working with will decide what you do next (further consolidation temp, fruiting, etc. This is when you go back to inaturalist and study some more.) For caerulipes, we're going to do a further consolidation at 80 degrees fahrenheit to imitate summer. Do this for a MINIMUM again of 2 weeks. After this is done, you can remove the lid and place into fruiting conditions at 60 degrees fahrenheit. This can be done easily by placing the tray inside a bigger container for microclimate and then that container placed in a fridge that's controlled with an external temperature controller. I use Elitech. Occasionally you'll open your container and spray it to keep it most. Within a couple months you should see caerulipes pins with a huge smile on your face. Congratulations!
Also, this works great for starting woodlovers. Strict woodlovers do not need a spawn source to fruit. They only need chips or mulch. However, using spawn will guarantee the liquid culture to successfully jump to the chips.
Here are some recipe examples I've been recently using:
With a properly inoculated container, you can expect complete colonization in just a matter of a few weeks, even with the most stubborn species! However, don't be quick to fruit! A good consolidation is very beneficial and everything in the Psilocybe genus will pin under high CO2 conditions as long as the temperature is right and the a prior temperature swing took place, if required.
Here is an indoor grow of ovoideocystidiata at 70 degrees, that went through a correct temperature consolidation in the 20s for a couple weeks. Although not LB Tek, I think you'll understand my point
I'll be redoing this grow completely LB Tek.
Edited by PhenoDreamers (08/29/26 08:38 AM)
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