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Offlinemarx2k
journeyman

Registered: 05/12/01
Posts: 60
Loc: Midwest
Last seen: 3 years, 1 month
Marx2K's Tek. Let me know what you guys think.. (
    #567838 - 03/02/02 04:58 PM (14 years, 9 months ago)

Honey/Dextrose Tek-
Honey is added to 1/2 pint of water (tap water is ok). Just enough honey to cover the bottom of the jar. Dextrose works just as well. Success has been achieved with up to 15 grams of dextrose per 1/2 pint water. Dextrose has advantages because it doesn't carmelize when cooker for extended periods of time like honey. The jar is sealed and placed into pressure cooker. The jar lid remains loose and tin foil is placed over lid to keep contaminants out. The jar is then pressure cooked for 25-30 minutes. When pressure reaches atmospheric 0, the jar should then have its' lid tightened. The best way found so far of quickly cooling the jar is by simply placing it in the refrigerator. Letting them cool in the pressure cooker or on the counter has no advantages. Once the jar is cool to the touch, set the oven to 350-450F. Open the oven door immediately after turning the oven on. Otherwise you risk placing your materials on an extremely hot door. Turn the burner on the stove to high. Alcohol should be rubbed first on the needle then on the electrical tape covering the hole in the jar lid. It is suggested to use paper towels or cloths to rub alcohol. Cotton balls and Q-Tips tend to leave behind small strains of cotton. The needle of the spore syringe is put into the flame until it glows red and the tip glows white. When you are ready to innoculate, remove needle from flame and slowly push spore water through the needle until hissing is not longer heard. Have a small piece of electrical tape handy. Quickly plunge needle through electrical tape and hole in lid. Squeeze out 3 cc's of spore solution into the jar and immediately cover with spare piece electrical tape. Swirl water inside jar to distribute spores. Place in incubator. Growth should be noticed by 2nd or 3rd day if temperature and sterility conditions are met. Swirl water to re-distribute spores every 3 or 4 days. Depending on how long mycelium is allowed to grow, this solution will fill many syringes. To fill syringes, first sterilize them. 15 minutes in the pressure cooker should do it. They should not melt in the pressure cooker. Flame the needle, cool it with alcohol. Swirl cloud of mycelium in jar to break it up. Slide needle into hole in jar and flip jar upside down with needle in jar. Begin sucking out liquid. If mycelium blocks hole, push liquid out of syringe until hole is no longer blocked. Begin sucking liquid again until syringe is full. Repeat until satisfied. Syringes can be stored in refrigerator. If left in warm temperature, mycelial mass will continue to grow. This method converts 3cc's of spore solution into unlimited number of syringes of mycelium since the new syringes can be used to innoculate more jars of honey/dextrose water. Another advantage is that there is no need to wait for germination. The mycelial mass is ready to begin growing on substrate now!

Preparation of Substrate--
There are two substrates that have worked wonderfully for me so far. Organic long grain brown rice ($1.19/lb at local co-op), and organic rye seed/rye berry ($.59/lb at local co-op). First let's talk about preparation of jars. We will be using poly-fil. Poly-fil is a superb material because it allows air to flow through without compromising sterility or humidity levels. It's somewhat better than filter discs because with filter discs, your substrate still has a good chance of drying out. At least, this is what I have noticed with rye grain (not rice, though. Rice stays nice and moist). Using a wide nail or drill bit, make a hole half the size of a dime in the lid of the pint or half pint jar. Do not use dremmel bits because they make amazingly sloppy and sharp holes. Take a 5 to 6 inch long by 2 inch wide piece of poly-fil and roll it up lengthwise. Fold it in half so you have a "V" shape (more like a "U" shape, I guess) of 1" pieces on both sides. Press the bottom of the "V" to the hole and begin pulling it through the other side of the lid. When the poly-fil is about half way through the hole, cut the bottom of the "V". This allows the poly-fil to conform better to the hole. That is all so far for jar preparation for now. For simplicity sake we will be using 1 cup of rice. This formula can be multiplied as much as is desired. Bring 1 1/2 cups of water to a boil. Pour in 1 cup of rice and cover. Bring to a boil again and lower heat to simmer. Cook until fluffy and not overly moist. Do not open lid more than once or twice to check on rice and do not stir it. You know you have made a good batch of rice when you can put it in the jar and it doesnt leave streaks (of starch?) on the sides of the glass of the jar. Using fork, stuff rice into jar. No need to be gentle as there still will be plenty of air pockets left for mycelia to span into even if you stuff the rice into the jar. Fill to about 1/2" from top. Best to fill enough to where the polyfil at the bottom of lid almost touches rice but doesnt. Remember to wipe down inside the jar with alcohol-moist towel before filling with rice. This ensures sterility of jar before packing in with substrate. Seal jar tightly with lid. Place inside pressure cooker. Do not cover with foil. This causes poly-fil to come out very wet, which leads to contamination. Pressure cook up to 90 minutes. Cool naturally or in fridge. You can also cool in pressure cooker but I usually don't since I need the pressure cooker for more jars. When cooled, use mycelial syringe to innoculate jars of substrate. Follow same directions as when innoculating honey/dextrose water jars except electrical tape is not needed. You can slide the needle directly through poly-fil or on the side of it. Optionally you may want to shake the jar before innoculation to loosen the substrate so the liquid can flow all the way through. It is a good idea to do so. Inject approximately 2-3 cc's of mycelial solution per pint jar and half of that into half-pint jars. The poly-fil will automatically re-cover the hole made by the needle. You may want to shake the jar again to distribute liquid to all parts of jar. Your substrate jar is now ready to be put into incubation. Keep in dark at 78-84F until 100% colonized. No handling of jar is necessary after this. One other great thing about poly-fil is, if you notice your substrate not colonizing after a long time, you can usually smell a bad odor if you sniff at the poly-fil. If it smells sour at all, you probably have a bacteria problem (usually due to substrate being too wet when cooked). This is one good way to catch it earlier on. I have smelled this smell as early as 2 days after innoculation.

Rye grain is similar with difference in preparation and colonizing procedure. First, soak the rye seed in a bowl covered with plastic wrap for 24 hours. No more than 36 hours. Check water level after 24 hours. The rye absorbs the water. Always keep 1" above level of rye with water. After soaking, dump all the rye in a strainer or collander. Rinse it off well. Dump all rye into cooking pot and fill with water 2" over the rye. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer. Cover pot. Continually check water level to make sure water hasn't all been absorbed. When you notice the rye beginning to open up from its' shells, cook for another 10-15 minutes and strain in strainer or collander and rinse off again. If you fear sterility problems by rinsing, let rye drip dry for 5 minutes. When most of moisture is removed, begin packing into jars. Fill up to 1 inch from top of jar. Pressure cook any desires length of time over 90 minutes (the more, the better). Shake jar as soon as taken out of pressure cooker and place in refridgerator. When cooled, shake again and innoculate same was as rice substrate jars. shake once more directly after innoculation. Place into incubation chamber. When jar is 40% colonized, shake the jar vigorously to redistribute mycelium. Place back into incubation. Do again at 60% and again at 80% if desired. The less the jar is shaken, the less the chances of contamination. Rye seems to contaminate easier than rice but minimization of time it takes to reach 100% colonization is well worth it. It is not unheard of to see jars colonize completely 1 week after first signs of growth. There are methods of grain to grain transfers where you have one fully colonized jar of rye grain and you take that grain, shake it up so it becomes loose, and pour it into sterile jars of uncolonized rye grain. Personally, I don't see the advantage to this as sterility is somewhat breached and with the honey/dextrose tek, you have pretty much unlimited innoculant anyway. So I don't do this, but you may want to. I won't say any more about this tek, but what I just described about the tek is pretty much all it is. When jars are at 100% colonization, begin preparation of casing material. Wal-Mart, K-Mart and Target (among others) all sell shoebox-sized rubbermaid storage bins with lids. They are clear plastic and are used for food storage. I've seen them in several sizes, but just look for the ones that resemble shoeboxes. We will be using one of these per fully colonized pint jar. Fill the bin with 30% peat moss, 50% worm castings, 20% vermeculite, a teaspoon of gypsym or pickling lime and the rest with anything you'd like to experiment with (straw, bat guano, bloodmeal, whatever). Once you have achieved sufficient depth (about 3-4" is fine), dump this into a pyrex mixing bowl. Make sure casing is at least 1" from top of bin before dumping out. Mix casing material with enough distilled water that when squeezed in fist, water beads but does not drip. If too much water, mix with more casing material. Cover with tin foil. This is important to keep from drying out during the sterilization process. Place in over at 350F for 45 minutes to an hour. Basically, until you notice a smell like soil (closest I can come to describing it). Allow to cool in fridge. After bowl is cool to the touch, make a layer of half of casing material into bin. Smooth it out. Using latex gloves, crumble the cake into the casing layer. Make an even layer of cake in the casing. Then cover with final casing layer. So you basically have a sandwhich of casing and cake. Wrap the casing bin in tin foil to block out all light. Tape tin foil to bin if necessary. Cover the bin with the lid that comes with it. Leave this in incubation chamber for a few days. Once you see the casing about 50% colonized, fill a pyrex bowl with distilled water and soak a handful or two of coco-fiber for 15 minutes until coco-fiber has fully absorbed water. COver top of casing with 1/4" of coco-fiber. Remember to squeeze excess moisture from coco-fiber before layering it on top of casing. After this is done replace lid and continue incubating until casing coco-fiber layer is about 80% colonized, evenly. Remember that misting once or twice during this incubation process may be necessary. You will know when you see coco-fiber go from dark orange to light orange or if you notice casing pulling away from sides of bin. At the point of 80% colonization, remove casing from incubation and place into refridgerator for 12 hours. Afterwards, place into fruiting chamber and allow to fruit through any number of ways described in other teks dealing with casings.

Cloning and taking prints--
There are many recipies for agar but this one that seems the simplest to me (and of course, you are free to experiment as you wish with your agar). Using a pint jar, fill with distilled water up to 1" from the top. Add 8-10 grams corn meal, 7 grams agar agar, 4 grams dextrose and optionally 1 or less grams of malt extract and 1 or less grams of brewers yeast. Seal the lid of the jar and shake vigorously. Keep shaking until satisfied that all ingredients are properly mixed. The only definite ingredient you should see floating around will be the corn meal, which will collect at the bottom. Make sure lid is sealed tightly to prevent boil-over during pressure cooking. Pressure cook for 25 minutes and when 25 minutes is up, let steam out slowly but immediately. Allowing steam to escape too quickly may cause agar to boil over even with lid tightly sealed. This is due to sudden release of pressure. Agar in your pressure cooking valves is not pleasant. Allow agar to cool naturally but do shake every 5 minutes to keep corn meal mixed with agar. When temperature reaches 110F or when agar has not yet jelled, yet jar is cool to the touch, add 1-3 cc's of 3% H2O2 hydrogen peroxide. This ensures contaminant free growth of mycelium on your plates. Quickly re-seal the jar once the H2O2 is added. Shake jar to distribute H2O2 throughout the liquid. Use as many clean petri dishes as you think can be filled with the agar. Turn oven on to 450F and open oven door. Place petri dishes in stacks of 3 on oven door. This method is for right handed individuals. For left-handed individuals, reverse orientation or do what feels comfortable. Unscrew band from jar without removing lid and remove band. With left hand, put palm on top dish of stack. Reach fingers to the bottom ridge of cover of bottom of dish. It should look like you are going to pick up the stack. With right hand, slide back the lid on jar enough to pour out agar. Quickly lift lid off of bottom dish of stack and pour agar half way up to top and replace lid. This should be done quickly in one motion. Now move fingers up to lid of next dish in stack. Repeat process until all dishes have agar in them. When pouring into dishes, remember to only open dish lid enought o easily pour. This minimizes risk of contaminants. Place dishes into fridge to cool. Make sure agar is evenly distributed throughout the dish by tilting it to have agar flow into empty direction and fill in the empty spots. Do this before placing in refridgerator. This will maximize growing area. When plates have cooled (takes 45 minutes to an hour), again, lay plates in groups of 3 on oven door. Fill a shotglass with 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. The alcohol doesn't have to be 91% this is simply what I've used. On the subject of scalpels, I suggest using an exacto knife or a professional scalpel. Disposable scalpels go dull quickly and are made mostly of plastic so do not stand up to heat sterilization well. This should be done in time with your first flush. Once you have a good first flush, take the biggest, heaviest fruit you can find and twist it away from the casing. Place it on dry, clean paper towel. This will be the fruit you clone from. The fruit you would like to clone should be ready on the oven door on a paper towel. We will be using the stem to clone. There is no difference wether we are cloning from the stem flesh or cap flesh. Using the stem is easier and we can use the cap to harvest spores. Make sure to be wearing latex gloves for this procedure. Place the blade of the scalpel into the flame from the stove top. Wait until it glows bright red or white. At this point, place the blade into the shot glass. From my experience, there is no chance of the alcohol catching fire. The blade will sizzle and bubble but that is about it. At this time the blade is sterile and will remain so until removed from the shot glass. This next part will need to be done as quickly and carefully as possible. Using both hands, pinch either side of the stem and pull apart. The stem should split right down the middle exposing the flesh inside. Take the scalpel and use a paper towel to wipe the alcohol off the blade and make a slice into the inner flesh of the stem. This is the sterile part of the stem. The piece needs not to be large at all. Use the point of the blade to pierce the flesh to pick it up and quickly lift the lid of the dish just enough to insert the blade with the flesh. If the flesh does not fall off the blade into the agar easily, use ridge of lid of plate to slide flesh off, onto the agar. Replace lid. Pull blade back into flame for a few seconds and back into shot glass. Repeat steps until all dishes contain flesh. Use masking tape that is as wide as the dishes are tall and tape around the edge of the dish. This is done to retain moisture inside the dish. Plastic wrap or parafilm can be used as well but masking tape works just as well, is incredibly cheap and is incredibly easy to find. At this point the dish is ready to go into incubation.

If a fruit body is unavailable, you can use mycelial water on peroxidated agar. This will also produce a fine culture to work with. In order to getthe mycelial water onto the agar, simply pull back the lid to the dish, put sterile needle on center of dish and squeeze out a few dropsinto center. Make sure not to squeeze out too much as too much moisture causes contamination and culture will spread all over agar, making singling out of culture somewhat difficult. You can also innoculate agar with spore water. The only difference would be that H2O2 cannot be added to agar during agar production. Spores will not germinate on H2O2. A spore print can be used as well. In order to do so, take a metal wire and flame it until it glows red. (Best to make the wire into a loop, called an "innoculation loop"). Next, rub the hot part of the wire in the agar to get some molten agar on the wire. Next you will want to rub the wire with the molten agar on it in your spore print and when you have a good amount of spores on the wire, rub that in your agar plate in an "S" formation.

The disadvantage of working with anything other than stem flesh is that you will be working with multiple strain bases, not a clone of the original. I strongly suggest working with live stem flesh because you will know what you are getting.

Another method of cloning is similar to putting stem flesh on agar, but instead of placing flesh on agar, drop it into sterile honey/water jar. This works just as well as agar. The only disadvantage to this method is that you will no longer be able to single out strain further. This method works exactly like innoculating honey/dextrose water with spores except since you are using flesh from a stem, you know more or less what the end result will be.

After the culture has grown out on the agar, you can either use a piece of the culture and place it in a honey/dextrose water jar to make more mycelium, or place the culture on another agar plate to further grow out more. In order to choose the best section of agar to use to innoculate substrate, honey/dextrose water or further grow on more agar, look for a section that is ropey. It will look like lines of white coming out of the center of wherever your flesh is. You dont want the puffy, cloudy looking sections. In order to trabsfer your agar, use sterilized scalpel to cut small square section where you think is the ropiest. This is the section closest to the base of the strain. This section will grow the most robust (in my experience). Once you have a square cut in the cultured agar section, you can scoop it out with the blade and carry it over, tilt the balde and drop the section, culture side down, touching the new agar. This method is somewhat faulty because sometimes the piece will fall off the blade unexpectantly. A better method is after the square cut is made, lightly stab the culture, tilt the blade to the side and lift it out. If the cut is not clean or deep enough, the culture will not come out easily. So make sure to make a deep, clean cut the first time. Once the agar is transferred, the same procedure for sealing the dish is followed. If a singled out culture is used in the transfer, the culture that grows out of this should be just as good if not better. Do as many transfers as you wish until you are confident of the strain. The chance of contamination isn't very high since H2O2 should be/is used. Dishes and cultures can be stored in the refridgerator for long periods of time to be used at a later point. After storage, they can also be put back into incubation to continue growth. Using agar is the best way of ensuring strong genetic traits in your colonies. After 6 or more generation, the genetics of the strain begin breaking down. Growth slows down, potency is reduced, flushes are smaller. At this point it is time to go into prior generations on agar or back to spores.

At the same time you begin clonin the desired stem, you should use the cap of said stem to harvest the spores. This ensures longevity of the strain for years. In order to prepare for harvesting of spores you will need a half pint jar half filled with water. You can use tin foil or wire mesh to hold the cap suspended above the water when in the jar. Make a bowl shape with the tin foil or wire mesh and bend it around the edges of the jar. Estimating how large the cap is, cut a circle in the tin foil to be slightly smaller that the edges of the cap. This does not need to be done with the wire mesh if the mesh spacing is relatively large. Once you have constructed the holding setup, fill the jar halfway with water. Make sure that if you have the cap on the tin foil/wire mesh that the lid will close over the cap without touching it. The only thing the cap should touch is the tin foil/wire. Once everything is ready to go, place the tin foil/wire mesh in the jar, close the lid, seal it and pressure cook it for any time over 25 minutes. This is up to you. Once everything is cooled you are ready to collect the spores. Use scalpel (sterilized) to cut the stem as close to the cap as possible. DO NOT TOUCH THE GILLS. DO NOT HANDLE THE CAP MORE THAN YOU NEED TO. Carefully place the cap, gills-side down on the sterile tin-foil/wire mesh and re-seal the jar. Place this in a cool, dry spot for 3 or 4 days. In 3 or 4 days there should be a visible spore print floating on the surface of the water. Quickly open the lid, remove the holding setup by holding it by the edge on the outside of the jar, lifting it off and re-sealing the jar. What you have now is a half-pint jar filled with a sterile water/spore solution. If a hole was made in the lid beforehand and covered with tape, you can insert a syringe through this hole and draw up spore water. Repeat until you run out of water or syringes. Remember that before you do this , you need to shake or swirl the water quite a bit to distribute the spores throughout. If no hole was made in the lid, you will have to open the lid and stick the syringe in the jar and draw up water. This is much less sterile than drawing water thorugh a small hole. You will be amazed at how concentrated with spores your syringes will be. Spore syringes made at home are MUCH more conentrated than spores obtained from vendors. To dilute the spores (to make more syringes), use more water intially whn sterilizing. To make more conentrated syringes, use less water. This method of spore collection is far easier and more sterile than any I have read of or used for taking prints or making syringes.

This tek may sound complicated and difficult but after going through it a few times, it becomes amazingly simple. One aspect I like about this tek is it allows much freedom for experimentation in every stage. If you think casings need more of this and less of that, you are free to go ahead and do so. There are NO exact measurements. Even the measurements for the agar can be changed around or replaced completely. If you want to clone from a cap, the procedure is the same. Simply replace the cap for the stem and always use inner flesh. Dont like using honey? Switch it out for dextrose. Or Karo Syrup or whatever you like! This whole tek is based on bits of other teks that I have tried and have had the most success with. After repeated success with the PF tek, using a layer of verm on BRF, I have found that using vermeculite and BRF is not really necessary if sterility is maintained. PF Tek is great for beginners who are inexperienced with cultivation and sterility in general. But after repeated success with PF Tek is achieved, and you want to try different thingsm you may want to give the techniques here a try. They have been used over and over and over for a long period of time and have proven to provide amazingly successful flushes. The yield is far greater than cultivating from a cake alone. This tek covers everything from innoculation to harvest to cloning and spore collection. Not everything in this tek needs to be done for a successful harvest though. For instance, to have a successful harvest, you dont need to know anything about cloning, spore collection or agar work. You only need a spore syringe, a pint jar (or half-pint) and some rice. But if youd like to experience everything this hobby has to offer, see how this tek works for you. I believe you will be very pleased with the results.


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"If I don't wash for 30 days, will mushrooms grow in my armpits? I think it's much easier that way than knocking up some jars" - Steven Shteyn


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OfflineEndo
Stranger

Registered: 03/02/02
Posts: 2
Last seen: 14 years, 8 months
Wow Thanks! [Re: marx2k]
    #567878 - 03/02/02 05:46 PM (14 years, 9 months ago)

I've never seen anything on the honey tek before. Is it really that easy? What's the disadvantage of doing this as opposed to spore prints? To a newb like me this seems like a far superior way of getting viable syringes. Can you use these type of syringes with PF style jars? I would assume so, but I'm just checking.


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~Endo~
Original Badboy Selektah
BOOOH!!!!!


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Offlinemarx2k
journeyman

Registered: 05/12/01
Posts: 60
Loc: Midwest
Last seen: 3 years, 1 month
Re: Wow Thanks! [Re: Endo]
    #567880 - 03/02/02 05:51 PM (14 years, 9 months ago)

Yes its that easy. Yes you can use this honey/dextrose tek with PF style jars. Its just like spores but its not :smile:


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"If I don't wash for 30 days, will mushrooms grow in my armpits? I think it's much easier that way than knocking up some jars" - Steven Shteyn


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OfflineBeppoMarx
old hand
Registered: 09/01/01
Posts: 1,126
Last seen: 11 years, 8 months
Re: Wow Thanks! [Re: Endo]
    #567890 - 03/02/02 06:14 PM (14 years, 9 months ago)

yeah hoeywater is the shit. take 5cc of karo corn syrup (i tried to find some w/o vanilla but the vanilla seems to work also) to 50cc water in a 1/2 pint jar. detach teh needle from your syringe and you should be able to suck up the corn syrup. i just thought of that btw i usually just guess :smile:
if you work with startw you boil and pasteurize it and when you get done boiling it dilute teh remainuing liquid 1:1 with more water and that works pretty good too.
the only disadvantage really is that its a living culture containing psilocybin and therefore illegal; whereas prints arent. and i suppose teh myc could run out of nutrients and die after a period of time; ive yet to reach that going on 4 months but prints im sure sre good for years.
edit
and dont think marx2k beats out the original beppomarx!!!! :smile:
nice tek btw but it was way too long for me to read.


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Holy shit people; COMMON SENSE! we were all born with it where did it go?
maybe theres a tek out there to explain how to use it!
BUCKETS BRIGADE left hand man!!!


Edited by BeppoMarx (03/02/02 06:23 PM)


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Offlinemarx2k
journeyman

Registered: 05/12/01
Posts: 60
Loc: Midwest
Last seen: 3 years, 1 month
Re: Marx2K's Tek. Let me know what you guys think.. ( [Re: marx2k]
    #14575367 - 06/07/11 06:30 PM (5 years, 6 months ago)

Hey guys. Been a while :laugh: I'm getting back into the hobby and am going to follow my own tek. Let's see how it goes!


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"If I don't wash for 30 days, will mushrooms grow in my armpits? I think it's much easier that way than knocking up some jars" - Steven Shteyn


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OfflineLarrythescaryrexS
teardrop on the fire
Male User Gallery


Registered: 07/20/00
Posts: 10,961
Loc: further down the spiral
Last seen: 1 month, 8 days
Re: Marx2K's Tek. Let me know what you guys think.. ( [Re: marx2k]
    #14575407 - 06/07/11 06:37 PM (5 years, 6 months ago)

:drgonz:


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RIP Acidic_Sloth

Sunset_Mission said:
"larry the scary rex
verily scary when thoroughly vexed
invoke the shadows and dust, cast a hex
mercifully massacring memories masterfully
relocate from Ur to 8th density and become a cosmic bully
mulder and scully couldn't decipher his glyphs
invoke the shadows and dust, smoke infernal spliffs"
April 24th 2011


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Offlinescatmanrav
Brainy Smurf


Registered: 05/08/04
Posts: 11,483
Loc: Flag
Last seen: 3 years, 10 months
Trusted Cultivator
Re: Marx2K's Tek. Let me know what you guys think.. ( [Re: marx2k]
    #14575422 - 06/07/11 06:41 PM (5 years, 6 months ago)

I think you should read up on some new teks too. Check out spawning grain to coir and check out G2G transfers. I prefer that to a LC (honey, karo, malt ect)

These days, I inject 1cc of spores to a pint jar, then split that into 4 quarts (of rye or WBS), then each of those into 10. Then 1 from each batch of 10 into 10 new jars, for 3 or 4 generations. Mix the other 9 jars from the batch in with coir/verm/gypsum, fill into tubs or bags, and put a thin layer of the coir/verm/gypsum on top. You end up with alot more substrate, and alot more mushrooms for the same amount of jars. Both pics below were from 1 quart of grain, one cased as you describe, one spawned to bulk.

Happy growing!


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"life is like a drop of rain getting closer and closer to falling into a lake, and then when you hit the lake there is no more rain drop, only the lake."

Growing with bags, start to finish (including my new grain and substrate prep)
Anyone looking to start bulk tubs/mono tubs/shotgun hybrids? Good tubs to use..
How I do grain (old still good tips)
Turn your closet into a fruiting chamber
Casing layer colonization and overlay


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Offlinemarx2k
journeyman

Registered: 05/12/01
Posts: 60
Loc: Midwest
Last seen: 3 years, 1 month
Re: Marx2K's Tek. Let me know what you guys think.. ( [Re: scatmanrav]
    #14599962 - 06/12/11 11:09 AM (5 years, 5 months ago)

Hey scatmanrav, thanks for the reply.  I know about G2G transfers but have never been a big fan of them (though I've never tried them myself). First, I would think this would invite a lot more contams than just cycling through LC jars and making more LC jars from LC jars. The reason I prefer LC jars for making huge amounts of innoculant is because the only contam point you have there is the syringe which can be sterilized easily via flame/alcohol.

As far as the grain -> coir spawning... I mean... is it just that coir is the spawning substrate from which fruits come? Is it just basically my tek but instead of mixing up worm castings, gypsum, etc, only coir is used? I'm trying to wrap my head around why this would be preferred to manure, castings, straw or whatever? After all, coir is non-nutritional so the mycelium doesn't have much to grow on.  The only advantage I can figure here is that it is more contam resistant.  The tek I described uses a layer of coir on top of the colonized spawn to keep humidity levels in the microclimate proper and also to defend against airborne contams while the myc is busy colonizing the layer of castings or manure or straw underneath.


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"If I don't wash for 30 days, will mushrooms grow in my armpits? I think it's much easier that way than knocking up some jars" - Steven Shteyn


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Offlinescatmanrav
Brainy Smurf


Registered: 05/08/04
Posts: 11,483
Loc: Flag
Last seen: 3 years, 10 months
Trusted Cultivator
Re: Marx2K's Tek. Let me know what you guys think.. ( [Re: marx2k]
    #14601623 - 06/12/11 05:32 PM (5 years, 5 months ago)

You should try them before knocking them. I do G2G in my bathroom which I've cleaned, very low contamination rate, and I've done thousands like that. LC's can be contaminated and you cant even tell, at any point you stick a syringe in, or if you keep going back for more, through whatever you cover them with. I've done a hundred LC's I'm sure, I just find them to not be as fast, efficient, or contaminant free. If you get very good at LC's and use a stirrer, they can work very well.

I saw no mention of a bulk substrate in your tek. I see you say mixing casing layer, with worm castings, straw and peat moss, and casing with coir. Either way, its confusingly written.

When jars of grain are colonized you can prepare many bulk substrates. Horse manure, worm castings, coir, verm and gyspum are all used. Coir/verm and gypsum can be prepared by dumping boiling water over it. Let it cool then mix with spawn. Its that easy. And results are very similar to manure. Coir has enough nutrients to work for cubensis. Coir/verm/wbs/gypsum:


Just make jars, dump boiling water over 3 ingredients, mix with colonized jars, and your done.


--------------------
"life is like a drop of rain getting closer and closer to falling into a lake, and then when you hit the lake there is no more rain drop, only the lake."

Growing with bags, start to finish (including my new grain and substrate prep)
Anyone looking to start bulk tubs/mono tubs/shotgun hybrids? Good tubs to use..
How I do grain (old still good tips)
Turn your closet into a fruiting chamber
Casing layer colonization and overlay


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