philmyco said:

There is a reptile lamp heating a tray of lava rocks and water hooked to a temp controller set at 77f.

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Because your heater is pointed at a bunch of water.

I have tried seed mats, aquarium heaters, and high lumen lights.  Because my partner likes to keep the house kind of cool, I have always had to run a space heater in addition to those things to keep my temps in the low to mid 70s.

Anyway, your setup has the same issue my aquarium heaters with light did.  They create a lot of passive evaporation off the water but not necessarily the fruits.  Raising both temperature and humidity.

Honestly though you're set up might be more forgiving if you just turn the temperature down some.  I have had success in the low 70s in a tent not worrying about evaporation and running the humidity very high.

Essentially running it like a gourmet tent, set the humidity to like 95.  And set up an exhaust fan to turn on several times an hour.  The fan will drop the humidity and kick the fogger on.

The fruits won't get as big, but I also didn't struggle with aborts.  Again these were fruited low to mid '70s with very high humidity and good air exchange, without worrying about evaporation cycles.

philmyco said:

Why would a different kind of heater be any different? Heat raises temp, air holds more water, humidity goes up lol. Not trying to argue just don’t understand. My heater holds 77 and drops to 75 when the fogger is on, and then goes back up to 77 over a few minutes. Other heaters are going to do the same thing are they not?

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philmyco said:

Thanks for the explain! What if I ran the rocks tray dry? I think maybe it was asura who runs the same lamp with a monotub lid positioned over it.

Dropping temp and running a separate exhaust fan is no problem. I’ll give that a shot. Still running fog fan on lowest setting constantly in this setup? Air flow is a trickle

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philmyco said:

Continuing the physics discussion, why isn’t this as simple as turning up the fogger fan and pushing more air out the bottom of the tent? Is it that doing so adds moto much cold room air and the heater runs more which again puts me in a fogger-won’t-run loop just at a slightly lower Rh?

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tree frog said:

Looks like dry mycelium, not mold.

Faht has his jcm dialed in well, and uses a drip shield.  I'd wait for him to chime in.

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Thanks for your reply.
A drip shield tek would be quite useful for me.

Anomalocaris said:

Sup guys. Anyone know the differences between the minor compounds found in ttbvi versus bisporus? Is there a place i can see real compound analysis data of baeocystin and the others?

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