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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Harpo67] * 1
    #29237256 -

Harpo67 said:
I am hydrating some coir as I type this. Will I need both quarts of grain spawn for this 20 quart bin? Pretty sure I need 3 to 1 and 4 quarts seems like it would be pretty close to covering bottom up to the holes.

Wouldn't mind a link to a tek to eventually fruit in this 20 quart bin. Advice is appreciated.



When I do the 32qt version of those I use 4 quarts spawn to 8 quarts substrate, plus like 2 quarts of substrate for a top layer.

Kinda loosely following unBODified tubs.

The lower ratio of spawn to sub will just take longer to colonize, as long as your spawn is clean you'll be fine, but if you're using questionable spawn it'll be more risky.

I think you'd be fine mixing those two with 4 quarts of spawn and see how close they come to the holes, then just add more substrate to get closer.

Realistically ratios don't really matter, just mix spawn and substrate and the mushies will do their thing.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Mr Piggy] * 1
    #29237286 -

Mr Piggy said:
I feel you, I’m typically camp cook too.  I’m often the first to tag out so I try to make sure buddies come back to a clean camp and hot food.

Weird the random correlation between being the earliest to get up (4am) and being the first to tag out.  Too bad it’s completely random and we’ll never know. :lol:



Dude. You just described me. WTF. 😳🤔🤣

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Axman]
    #29237291 -

This is at least the 2nd time I've seen "ratios don't matter". I guess I dont see the logic here, since more coir = more water = better yield (to the point that water is the bottleneck anyway).

Is it becoming popular to run higher spawn ratios and calling it good enough? I typically run 1:4, but I've wondered too if running higher spawn and then bottom watering once the sub has shrunken some would achieve the same outcome...


--------------------


Hitchhikers Guide to The Shroomery

Shine on forever, shine on benevolent son
Shine down upon the severed
Shine until the two become one

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ThurmanMurman] * 4
    #29237293 -

mushroom farms do super low ratios hence the supplementation and jive.

i wanna say its like 1:20 ratio or something like that i could be wrong on that number:shrug:

we do super high spawn ratios for ...reasons?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Axman]
    #29237295 -

@Axman and @AZ I use the celltreat 100mmx15mm plates from Amazon cuz I heard good reviews on here. Should be sterile. I also open each sleeve inside the sab.

I do get a lot of condensation in my plates. I wait until 125f to pour but still haven’t been able to get rid of it. I’ve tried a hot pot of water on the top of the stack too but there was condensation on the side walls of the plates. This batch I didn’t worry about that and just left the stack to cool with nothing on top.

I did save some uninoculated plates and they have some specks too. Not as many though, so maybe it’s happening during inoculation. The spots are evenly spaced across the surface of the agar though. I would think that contams from inoculation would be centered around contact points or one edge of the plate where the scalpel went over to drop the wedge.

I was using Bods videos as a reference, but couldn’t really see when or how he was spraying the inside of the sab with soap water. What is the recommended strategy for that?

I ended up bringing all my stuff into the sab while the bottle was cooling, wiping with iso as I bring in, and then spraying the walls with soap water once everything was inside. Then left everything in there until time to pour, about 30 mins or so after spraying. I did not re-spray between pouring and inoculating.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ThurmanMurman] * 1
    #29237301 -

ThurmanMurman said:
This is at least the 2nd time I've seen "ratios don't matter". I guess I dont see the logic here, since more coir = more water = better yield (to the point that water is the bottleneck anyway).

Is it becoming popular to run higher spawn ratios and calling it good enough? I typically run 1:4, but I've wondered too if running higher spawn and then bottom watering once the sub has shrunken some would achieve the same outcome...



Lower ratios like 1:1 and 1:2 give questionable spawn a higher chance to colonize, since it can do it quicker. Lower ratios like 1:4 and 1:6 will take longer for the spawn to colonize, and if the spawn is compromised it will have a higher chance of contaminating.

When I rehydrate my tubs, I literally fill the tub full of water, and set another tub on top of it to weigh it down, then do the same thing for however many tubs I have. I then let it sit for 3 hours, then drain the extra water. It works great for me.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Harpo67] * 1
    #29237303 -

Harpo67 said:
I am hydrating some coir as I type this. Will I need both quarts of grain spawn for this 20 quart bin? Pretty sure I need 3 to 1 and 4 quarts seems like it would be pretty close to covering bottom up to the holes.

Wouldn't mind a link to a tek to eventually fruit in this 20 quart bin. Advice is appreciated.



You’re overthinking it.  Just dump those two quarts in and fill with coir until you’re just below those holes, mix that all up, and put a psudocasing of about 1/2 inch of pure coir on top of that.  Lightly tamp and compress the whole mix, then level the surface.  Done.

Just prep coir using the link I already provided you.  Prepped coir can sit around for a while, so making too much is better than too little.  Plus coir is cheap so you don’t really have to hoard leftover like gold.


--------------------
🅃🄴🄰🄼 🄸🄷🄾🄿


New to cultivation or the shroomery?  Observe the hitchhiker's guide

The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery



Smellyhobbit said:
"Wiping a needle with isopropyl after flame sterilization is like shitting after you wipe your ass."

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ElGringoGrande]
    #29237310 -

ElGringoGrande said:
@Axman and @AZ I use the celltreat 100mmx15mm plates from Amazon cuz I heard good reviews on here. Should be sterile. I also open each sleeve inside the sab.

I do get a lot of condensation in my plates. I wait until 125f to pour but still haven’t been able to get rid of it. I’ve tried a hot pot of water on the top of the stack too but there was condensation on the side walls of the plates. This batch I didn’t worry about that and just left the stack to cool with nothing on top.

I did save some uninoculated plates and they have some specks too. Not as many though, so maybe it’s happening during inoculation. The spots are evenly spaced across the surface of the agar though. I would think that contams from inoculation would be centered around contact points or one edge of the plate where the scalpel went over to drop the wedge.

I was using Bods videos as a reference, but couldn’t really see when or how he was spraying the inside of the sab with soap water. What is the recommended strategy for that?

I ended up bringing all my stuff into the sab while the bottle was cooling, wiping with iso as I bring in, and then spraying the walls with soap water once everything was inside. Then left everything in there until time to pour, about 30 mins or so after spraying. I did not re-spray between pouring and inoculating.



You can use soapy water or iso to clean your workspace, there really isn't anything to it aside from just making sure it's clean and wiped down.

If some of your plates are contamming before you even inoculated them id be concerned about either your sterile tek when you pour, or your sterilization of the agar.

Personally I prefer to pre pour Primo plates, yes you get condensation, but if you remove the paper towel and put them back inside or leave them in your sab for a day or two the condensate will dissipate or be absorbed by the agar.

Since you said that you are having more contamination on the plates you handle a second time for inoculation I would tell you to bring it back to basics ans rethink your sterile tek, try to not move anything over an open plate etc.

It can be skin flaks/particles etc, I personally shower and scrub the shit out of my forearms until they're red. Then lightly dry off my body and sit down to my prepared SAB for agar work.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ElGringoGrande] * 2
    #29237311 -

ElGringoGrande said:
Yo does anyone have an explanation or link to one about why we are supposed to put foil over lids of things in the pressure cooker?

I’m specifically looking at agar in a 500 ml media bottle. I poured agar a week ago and was very careful with pouring in my SAB, followed Bod’s videos to a t, closed all windows and turned off all fans/ac and hour before pouring, showered ~30 mins before.

All the plates are contammed, they look like little drops evenly dispersed across the surface of the agar, clear but I can see thin trails leading out of the drops so probably bacteria (sorry no pics rn, I’ll post later).

The only thing I can think is that I didn’t cover the lid of the bottle during sterilization, just left the lid slightly unscrewed, so I’m trying to track down what went wrong. Could leaving the lid uncovered lead to contams? Or was I just not careful enough with pouring?



I cover it so there is an extra layer between the sterile bottle and the dirty world.  I take the foil off after I place the media bottle in my SAB.  I don’t want any lil microbe bits drifting onto the neck of my bottle before I IHOP an entire stack:lol:


--------------------
🅃🄴🄰🄼 🄸🄷🄾🄿


New to cultivation or the shroomery?  Observe the hitchhiker's guide

The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery



Smellyhobbit said:
"Wiping a needle with isopropyl after flame sterilization is like shitting after you wipe your ass."

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ThurmanMurman] * 1
    #29237313 -

ThurmanMurman said:
This is at least the 2nd time I've seen "ratios don't matter". I guess I dont see the logic here, since more coir = more water = better yield (to the point that water is the bottleneck anyway).

Is it becoming popular to run higher spawn ratios and calling it good enough? I typically run 1:4, but I've wondered too if running higher spawn and then bottom watering once the sub has shrunken some would achieve the same outcome...



You really got to consider your goals here. Imo, 1:3 is like the optimal ratio. 1:3 + top layer, which some consider 1:4. I’d call it 1:4 with no top layer. This is optimal at least for shoeboxes. It gives pretty much any cube culture the water to give you everything in flush 1 with an option for a good rehydrated flush 2, but you can also toss it after without issue.

Colonization time and risk mitigation are both good as well.

1:2 can also give you a full flush 1, but at that point I’m definitely tossing after because the second flush isn’t worth the space in my cabinet.

Now if you’re running big, deep tubs maybe you can consider higher ratios, but for us shoeboxers I really don’t see a point, personally.


--------------------
A Love Letter to New Growers
The 7 Edicts of Mushroom Cultivation as Decreed by Smellyhobbit

:kodama:


Anyone can get a canopy. But can you get what you want?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Smellyhobbit]
    #29237317 -

mushboy said:
mushroom farms do super low ratios hence the supplementation and jive.

i wanna say its like 1:20 ratio or something like that i could be wrong on that number:shrug:

we do super high spawn ratios for ...reasons?



I mean, I dont wanna wait a month for the damn tub to colonize, but running good spawn at 1:2 feels like leaving potential behind.
Smellyhobbit said:
ThurmanMurman said:
This is at least the 2nd time I've seen "ratios don't matter". I guess I dont see the logic here, since more coir = more water = better yield (to the point that water is the bottleneck anyway).

Is it becoming popular to run higher spawn ratios and calling it good enough? I typically run 1:4, but I've wondered too if running higher spawn and then bottom watering once the sub has shrunken some would achieve the same outcome...



You really got to consider your goals here. Imo, 1:3 is like the optimal ratio. 1:3 + top layer, which some consider 1:4. I’d call it 1:4 with no top layer. This is optimal at least for shoeboxes. It gives pretty much any cube culture the water to give you everything in flush 1 with an option for a good rehydrated flush 2, but you can also toss it after without issue.

Colonization time and risk mitigation are both good as well.

1:2 can also give you a full flush 1, but at that point I’m definitely tossing after because the second flush isn’t worth the space in my cabinet.

Now if you’re running big, deep tubs maybe you can consider higher ratios, but for us shoeboxers I really don’t see a point, personally.



I do 1:3+1 and call it 1:4. Ya kinda lost me with throwing out the sub after 1st flush though if you run 1:2 - why not soak/bottom water and let it run again? Just curious, of course.


--------------------


Hitchhikers Guide to The Shroomery

Shine on forever, shine on benevolent son
Shine down upon the severed
Shine until the two become one

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Mr Piggy] * 6
    #29237332 -

Mr Piggy said:
Prepped coir can sit around for a while



if the coir sits for too long it turns back into coconut husks


true story:smoker:

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ThurmanMurman] * 3
    #29237338 -

You can. The cultures I grow usually give 28-35g dry first flush and then something like 7g dry second flush. I personally would rather start a new project instead. There’s no reason not to rehydrate a 1:2 tub and let it give you multiple flushes if that’s what you’re interested in doing. The problem with 1:2 is that I could just do 1:3 and be done with it. I feel like a rehydrated 1:2 is just giving you what you could have gotten on a first flush 1:3.

There isn’t really a wrong answer with clean spawn. Just depends on what you’re interested in. I turn and burn because I’m working on learning new species and cubes take up space after their first flush for not a lot of return.


--------------------
A Love Letter to New Growers
The 7 Edicts of Mushroom Cultivation as Decreed by Smellyhobbit

:kodama:


Anyone can get a canopy. But can you get what you want?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Smellyhobbit] * 1
    #29237342 -

Smellyhobbit said:
You can. The cultures I grow usually give 28-35g dry first flush and then something like 7g dry second flush. I personally would rather start a new project instead. There’s no reason not to rehydrate a 1:2 tub and let it give you multiple flushes if that’s what you’re interested in doing. The problem with 1:2 is that I could just do 1:3 and be done with it. I feel like a rehydrated 1:2 is just giving you what you could have gotten on a first flush 1:3.

There isn’t really a wrong answer with clean spawn. Just depends on what you’re interested in. I turn and burn because I’m working on learning new species and cubes take up space after their first flush for not a lot of return.



Yeah, that tracks. If I was getting those results, I'd do the same.


--------------------


Hitchhikers Guide to The Shroomery

Shine on forever, shine on benevolent son
Shine down upon the severed
Shine until the two become one

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ThurmanMurman] * 2
    #29237344 -

you will homie.

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: mushboy] * 2
    #29237350 -

Definitely.


--------------------
A Love Letter to New Growers
The 7 Edicts of Mushroom Cultivation as Decreed by Smellyhobbit

:kodama:


Anyone can get a canopy. But can you get what you want?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Smellyhobbit]
    #29237376 -

idk i just use 1 brick 3 qts verm 4.5 qts water every single time per 5 qts spawn :shrug:any one know what ratio that is :eek:


--------------------
HUSTLER
How U Survive This Life Everyday Resourcefully
epic GT mono tub
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/17277772

wbs tek
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/11525679
coir tek
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/11917410
results :thumbup:

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Mr Piggy]
    #29237456 -

Mr Piggy said:
Harpo67 said:
I am hydrating some coir as I type this. Will I need both quarts of grain spawn for this 20 quart bin? Pretty sure I need 3 to 1 and 4 quarts seems like it would be pretty close to covering bottom up to the holes.

Wouldn't mind a link to a tek to eventually fruit in this 20 quart bin. Advice is appreciated.



You’re overthinking it.  Just dump those two quarts in and fill with coir until you’re just below those holes, mix that all up, and put a psudocasing of about 1/2 inch of pure coir on top of that.  Lightly tamp and compress the whole mix, then level the surface.  Done.

Just prep coir using the link I already provided you.  Prepped coir can sit around for a while, so making too much is better than too little.  Plus coir is cheap so you don’t really have to hoard leftover like gold.



Should I block holes while colonizing?


--------------------
Is not what we see or seem but a dream within a dream? -Edgar Allan Poe

:mushroom2:The Hitchhikers Guide to the Shroomery:mushroom2:

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: ElGringoGrande]
    #29237461 -

ElGringoGrande said:
@Axman and @AZ I use the celltreat 100mmx15mm plates from Amazon cuz I heard good reviews on here. Should be sterile. I also open each sleeve inside the sab.

I do get a lot of condensation in my plates. I wait until 125f to pour but still haven’t been able to get rid of it. I’ve tried a hot pot of water on the top of the stack too but there was condensation on the side walls of the plates. This batch I didn’t worry about that and just left the stack to cool with nothing on top.

I did save some uninoculated plates and they have some specks too. Not as many though, so maybe it’s happening during inoculation. The spots are evenly spaced across the surface of the agar though. I would think that contams from inoculation would be centered around contact points or one edge of the plate where the scalpel went over to drop the wedge.

I was using Bods videos as a reference, but couldn’t really see when or how he was spraying the inside of the sab with soap water. What is the recommended strategy for that?

I ended up bringing all my stuff into the sab while the bottle was cooling, wiping with iso as I bring in, and then spraying the walls with soap water once everything was inside. Then left everything in there until time to pour, about 30 mins or so after spraying. I did not re-spray between pouring and inoculating.



I'd bet on spraying water in the SAB after loading shit into it being your main culprit. Probably fine if the plates were still in their sleeves at that point and you waited a good 5-10 minutes for everything to settle before removing the sleeves. But it's going to be way better to keep the air in the SAB still while anything is in there, no spraying or flaming inside the box. These days I think most people just use the SAB perfectly dry, only occasionally cleaning it between sessions (wet sides do not help keep air still, and the idea of them trapping nasties is dubious, given the air is supposed to be still and you aren't going to be working that close to the sides anyway).

I've never put foil on my media bottles, so I'd be shocked if that was your problem. Did you tighten down the lid before taking it out of the pressure cooker?

Are the spots on the uninoculated plates just mineral spots or are they gooey and growing?

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Re: Ask Quick Questions, Get Quick Answers [Re: Harpo67]
    #29237469 -

Harpo67 said:
Mr Piggy said:
Harpo67 said:
I am hydrating some coir as I type this. Will I need both quarts of grain spawn for this 20 quart bin? Pretty sure I need 3 to 1 and 4 quarts seems like it would be pretty close to covering bottom up to the holes.

Wouldn't mind a link to a tek to eventually fruit in this 20 quart bin. Advice is appreciated.



You’re overthinking it.  Just dump those two quarts in and fill with coir until you’re just below those holes, mix that all up, and put a psudocasing of about 1/2 inch of pure coir on top of that.  Lightly tamp and compress the whole mix, then level the surface.  Done.

Just prep coir using the link I already provided you.  Prepped coir can sit around for a while, so making too much is better than too little.  Plus coir is cheap so you don’t really have to hoard leftover like gold.



Should I block holes while colonizing?



No, introduce fruiting conditions at spawning.  You will need to find a way to close off part of those holes if your tub is drying out too fast, I do it by coving the holes halfway with masking tape when needed.  You want to maintain air exchange and nice surface conditions.  The juggle is trying to find the balance.

Have you read the hitchhiker's guide to the shroomery?

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/28501530#28501530

There's a lot of beginning things explained in there with links to appropriate TEKs or examples.  There's a reason a lot of us recommend it.


--------------------
🅃🄴🄰🄼 🄸🄷🄾🄿


New to cultivation or the shroomery?  Observe the hitchhiker's guide

The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery



Smellyhobbit said:
"Wiping a needle with isopropyl after flame sterilization is like shitting after you wipe your ass."

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