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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 5
    #29157022 -

Yeah, my cycles are mostly timed exhaust and passive humidity in the pan tent atm.  If the humidity gets over 97, the rh reader does blow in extra air, just for fun.

But it's essentially a big JCM.  I'm not even using a fogger on it anymore.  Though I am running my gourmet tent off one.







Exhaust pulls through the whole system for five minutes every ten. Air moves from the pan tent, into the big tent, and exhausts out the top.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 5
    #29157650 -

tree frog said:


I'm waiting to hear back from workman, to verify that it's chlorocystis.  I'm pretty sure that it is just because of how I got the print, but a second opinion is good.

Anyway, I think I have a couple of spare prints if anyone is itching to grow these and help get them out into the community, send me a DM.


Hopefully not much longer now until microscopy. Also planning to do DNA sequencing but success with Panaeolus is often less assured than with Psilocybe, for some reason.

Thanks again. I wasn't even sure chlorocystis was a real species before.


--------------------
Research funded by the patrons of
The Spore Works
Exotic Spore Supply

My Instagram
Reinvesting Sales Towards Basic Research and Species Identification :amanitajar:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Workman] * 3
    #29157656 -

For sure!  I was really fortunate to come across it.  Was gifting someone a mystery sa print, and they had the hookup with the collector.  I hadn't even heard of it before that time.

Was debating sampling some this morning, but my mind got stirred up, and now I think I'll debate about it again tomorrow morning instead.  Three fresh fruits was a good level 1 though, so my suspicion is they're as active as bispo and other close relatives.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra]
    #29157692 -

I need some help please.

I got three 6qt tubs in a JCM bin.
Cased with Gordo casing recipe 6 days ago.
Rh is consistently 90-94%. Temp 70-76°F
732 gph air pump going 24/7.
I got tons of side-pins coming in on every side of every bin, but nothing coming in on the surface.
This leads my VERY inexperienced self to think it's a temperature issue. The microclimate on the sides is prob a few degrees hotter, and/or a bit more humid.
Should I turn the aquarium heater up to raise the temp and RH?
Any help very appreciated!!!
Thanks in advance!





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Cube-dude]
    #29157743 -

The sides are going to have both more humidity and more CO2. The culture you're running might have a preference for higher CO2 or higher humidity, at least when it's setting pins. It might want more fresh air exchange for good cap formation, but after the pins set.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 2
    #29158325 -

ttbvi
Growing very small, this is day 5 after the first pin. What should I look out for in the future?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: akapulko] * 5
    #29158354 -

akapulko said:
ttbvi
Growing very small, this is day 5 after the first pin. What should I look out for in the future?


If I were you, I'd read the last 20~30 pages of this thread so it should  give you an idea how TTBVI expresses itself on agar all the way to bulk. Unlike other pan cyan varieties, TTBVI/BVI tends to be on the smaller side. Pan Texas and Florida King have been some of the biggest ones i've grown so far, too bad i didn't take any pics at the time. Weza grows pretty bulky and purdy depending on the genetic line which I happen to have 2 different sources.

Peace River and Outdoor TTBVI next to an indoor grown sample.


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 7
    #29158362 -

Stagger's Bispora finally cased :heart::heart:



ps,
24 hrs later...


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

Edited by astra (03/15/25 08:14 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 11
    #29158369 -

MiB Ginger Spore 4th wave plus the lone enoki looking tray :heart::heart:




--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra]
    #29158467 -

astra said:
akapulko said:
ttbvi
Growing very small, this is day 5 after the first pin. What should I look out for in the future?


If I were you, I'd read the last 20~30 pages of this thread so it should  give you an idea how TTBVI expresses itself on agar all the way to bulk. Unlike other pan cyan varieties, TTBVI/BVI tends to be on the smaller side. Pan Texas and Florida King have been some of the biggest ones i've grown so far, too bad i didn't take any pics at the time. Weza grows pretty bulky and purdy depending on the genetic line which I happen to have 2 different sources.

Peace River and Outdoor TTBVI next to an indoor grown sample.



Thanks, I'll read it again.:палец вверх:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra] * 2
    #29158710 -

astra said:
MiB Ginger Spore 4th wave plus the lone enoki looking tray :heart::heart:





Those are beautiful!!! :aweyeah:


--------------------
"For the powerful freedom-takers who rob justice from us all, that's why I keep my pistol loaded, powder, cap, and ball..."
Read more, post less!
...turns out, I'm an amateur at everything

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: KlarnEvil9]
    #29159347 -

Hi,
sorry for asking but I find very different information through the forum.
I am grwoing ttbvi in a martha tent and this is my third attempt.
Everything went well. Spores to agar, agar to rye, rye to substrate (di tw obatches one cvg + manure and cvg + fertilizer) in eight different trays (4 manure, 4 fertilizer), let colonize, cased (50% spanghum peat moss , 50% verm and some caoh, consolidated for 2 days and went into fruiting conditions.
From here I got overlay. I think I went into fruiting mode on Thursday and don't see any pins on Sunday (today). The overlay got stronger on 2 trays which are a bit more large than the others but seemed to have stopped now.
When it comes to fruiting conditions I read several things.

1. temperature: should it be high to allow lots of evaporation or should it be low? right now it is cycling between 22,5 and 24.5 degrees as I thought I might give some hot air to keep evaporating but not too much all the time. I regulate temperature with a small radiator insdie the tent, I would alternatively have a heatmat (not sure if it can keep the whole tent on temperature though.

2. Humidity: I am currently cycling between 78% and 93% rh (if I can believe the hygrometers. I have a controller and a bluetooth hygrometer which show pretty similar values and another one which shows about 10% less. The mycelium has numerous micro droplets on it, even after. a night. I stopped misting a day ago. Is it supposed to be like this? I was thinking that it probably should get a bit dryish and be rehydrated but in my case it seems to stay pretty moist that is why I let the rh fall so much in hope to stimulate evaporation as a saturated air probably wont be able to take more humidity

3. FAE: I am running a computer fan now at 1 min every 5 minutes on the highest setting in hope it will help evaporating the condensation from the mycelium

4. Surface conditions: as mentioned it seems that the surface stays pretty much moist

As written above, I read teks saying the surface with the casing must be soaking wet (How does it evaporate?) and others saying the temperature must as high as possible to help dry out the casing that then manually can/must be rehydrated in the morning and evening. As I said before this is my thrid attempt. The first attempts were with a lc of a vendor this attempt with spores from gordo. I could tell that the spores went much faster and more aggressive that the lc from the vendor. my plan was to clone the best fruits and make lc out of this for further trays.
I really don't know which parameters I could / need to change to optimize the situation. This is really frustrating as I never ran into problems with cubes but really want to grow and especially try the ttbvi and if successful other exotics as well.
I started another thread but just got reply of one person which didn't really solve the problem, so sorry for maybe double posting.

Thanks for helping





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: franksterling]
    #29159368 -

I'm going to get some growing supplies in preparation for pans and I'm thinking about doing a simple brf tek with 1:1:1:1 ratio of brf, cowmanure, verm and water since I'm comfortable with this Tek and I'm a total rookie. I'm also thinking about using a water tub rather than the previous sgfc because It seems to work better.

Will this work or should I try a different Tek?


--------------------

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: SkanskKorv] * 2
    #29159474 -

Look into Pans in Monotubs. It’s babayaga’s thread. Great to try if you have a mono laying around from any old cube grows.

Also maybe try the poop tea to hydrate your coir. If you can effectively pasteurize the tea, hydrating dry coir to perfection is SUPER easy.

Let’s us know. Report back. :rockon:


--------------------
Astra said:

“Peace River has a gentle personality, yet TTBVI hit me like strong LSD with a twist of medical grade meth. Not for the faint of heart.”

Team Panaeolus

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: franksterling]
    #29159537 -

franksterling said:
Hi,
sorry for asking but I find very different information through the forum.
I am grwoing ttbvi in a martha tent and this is my third attempt.
Everything went well. Spores to agar, agar to rye, rye to substrate (di tw obatches one cvg + manure and cvg + fertilizer) in eight different trays (4 manure, 4 fertilizer), let colonize, cased (50% spanghum peat moss , 50% verm and some caoh, consolidated for 2 days and went into fruiting conditions.
From here I got overlay. I think I went into fruiting mode on Thursday and don't see any pins on Sunday (today). The overlay got stronger on 2 trays which are a bit more large than the others but seemed to have stopped now.
When it comes to fruiting conditions I read several things.

1. temperature: should it be high to allow lots of evaporation or should it be low? right now it is cycling between 22,5 and 24.5 degrees as I thought I might give some hot air to keep evaporating but not too much all the time. I regulate temperature with a small radiator insdie the tent, I would alternatively have a heatmat (not sure if it can keep the whole tent on temperature though.

2. Humidity: I am currently cycling between 78% and 93% rh (if I can believe the hygrometers. I have a controller and a bluetooth hygrometer which show pretty similar values and another one which shows about 10% less. The mycelium has numerous micro droplets on it, even after. a night. I stopped misting a day ago. Is it supposed to be like this? I was thinking that it probably should get a bit dryish and be rehydrated but in my case it seems to stay pretty moist that is why I let the rh fall so much in hope to stimulate evaporation as a saturated air probably wont be able to take more humidity

3. FAE: I am running a computer fan now at 1 min every 5 minutes on the highest setting in hope it will help evaporating the condensation from the mycelium

4. Surface conditions: as mentioned it seems that the surface stays pretty much moist

As written above, I read teks saying the surface with the casing must be soaking wet (How does it evaporate?) and others saying the temperature must as high as possible to help dry out the casing that then manually can/must be rehydrated in the morning and evening. As I said before this is my thrid attempt. The first attempts were with a lc of a vendor this attempt with spores from gordo. I could tell that the spores went much faster and more aggressive that the lc from the vendor. my plan was to clone the best fruits and make lc out of this for further trays.
I really don't know which parameters I could / need to change to optimize the situation. This is really frustrating as I never ran into problems with cubes but really want to grow and especially try the ttbvi and if successful other exotics as well.
I started another thread but just got reply of one person which didn't really solve the problem, so sorry for maybe double posting.

Thanks for helping








Tents can be a pain to dial in the variables. You will need a different approach when trying to fruit pan cyans. You don't really need to 'cycle' the temp inside the tent unless you were living in Siberia, I will assume that the room you have the tent is not freezing/basement. You didn't mention whether you're running a fogger or humidifier other than the humidity controller on wifi (misting by hand?).

Pans are EASY when you have the basic understanding that not all species will adapt to your schedule and growing conditions. You can't simply compare pan cyans with cubes in any way, shape or form because they're two different species and require different approaches.

In your post you said you placed them in fruiting conditions last Thursday and by Sunday you were not seeing any pins yet. It can take anywhere from 5 days to 10 days (14 days on rare occasions) for pins to show up. On the evaporation bit, as long as you keep the temperature steady, say, 24C and misting once or twice a day, you should be having good evaporation, just don't let the trays dry out like the Sahara desert. When it comes to fans, I wouldn't know what to say because i have NEVER used a fan in any of my grows.

That being said, I used to run tents before but its been a few years since i dismantled my last one, kept in the shed ever since. i'm currently using a JCM fruiting chamber and its been peaches and cream in my experience. Very efficient and low maintenance.

Fundamentally speaking, I could go on and on about all the differences between fruiting pans in a tent, jcm or an empty plastic container with an offset lid..  steady room temp will be the biggest catalyst/deciding factor when it comes to fruiting.

Here is the JCM write-up and if you're fortunate enough to read the whole thread 3 or 4 times, you might find a few hidden Easter eggs that will come in handy. Hopefully it will answer some of your questions better than I could.

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/26565367/page/1


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra]
    #29159604 -

I am new to Pans. This went from print ----> agar ----> T1 -----> T2 and looked totally clean when they went to grain. They started out on the grain at a decent speed, then let them go probably too long before the shake. It has been almost a week since the shake and they are looking a little weak. I understand Pans can do this sometimes. Could be bacterial, could be that it just didn't like being shaken. What do you think?




Today they went to shoe boxes. I didn't feel like getting out the leaf shredder after dark to chop straw, so I used straw pellets (maybe a mistake, but I guess we will see). 1:1:1 Black Kow: Straw Pellets: Verm, pastuerized in the instant pot Keep Warm setting for 4-5 hours and left to cool in there overnight. I did notice that when I got the mix to the dryer end of field capacity, the sub became kind of paste-like. It was super pliable, but really stuck to itself. Squeezing it let go of almost no water, just a tiny drop. Do you guys think straw pellets would be detrimental? 



One additional question I have about Pans. I notice a lot of people seem to prefer rye grain with this species. Milo is what I had on hand and ready to use at the time. Rye is kind of harder to get where I am and more expensive if you do find it. All I have around right now is Milo, Oats, and White Millet. Is there a reason rye seems to be the go-to grain?


--------------------
         

Edited by GnomeEra (03/16/25 10:50 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: astra]
    #29159641 -

Hi,
Thanks for your answer :smile:
I am running an ultrasonic humidifiyer which is controlled by a humiditiy sensor and connected with a pipe from the department store.
In the beginning i misted the trays but there is a small "carpet" of micro bubbles of water on there, so pretty heavy condensation, no paddles yet so I stopped misting for now.

Ok glad to hear that they might just take a bit longer. I read somewhere that the pins should show up very quickly. I suppose I then just keep it moist.
But how moist exactly should the surface be? Does it stay like this all the time or does it go dry, moist, dry moist etc?

I also have that strong overlay and was just wondering whether this is ok as on other photos the casing looks much different.

Thanks for helpiing and the link, I will read through it right now :smile:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: GnomeEra]
    #29159655 -

GnomeEra said:
I am new to Pans. This went from print ----> agar ----> T1 -----> T2 and looked totally clean when they went to grain. They started out on the grain at a decent speed, then let them go probably too long before the shake. It has been almost a week since the shake and they are looking a little weak. I understand Pans can do this sometimes. Could be bacterial, could be that it just didn't like being shaken. What do you think?




Today they went to shoe boxes. I didn't feel like getting out the leaf shredder after dark to chop straw, so I used straw pellets (maybe a mistake, but I guess we will see). 1:1:1 Black Kow: Straw Pellets: Verm, pastuerized in the instant pot Keep Warm setting for 4-5 hours and left to cool in there overnight. I did notice that when I got the mix to the dryer end of field capacity, the sub became kind of paste-like. It was super pliable, but really stuck to itself. Squeezing it let go of almost no water, just a tiny drop. Do you guys think straw pellets would be detrimental? 



One additional question I have about Pans. I notice a lot of people seem to prefer rye grain with this species. Milo is what I had on hand and ready to use at the time. Rye is kind of harder to get where I am and more expensive if you do find it. All I have around right now is Milo, Oats, and White Millet. Is there a reason rye seems to be the go-to grain?


Mmmm, the jars look a little sus indeed.. In my own experience, a healthy vigorous culture will colonize the jars in 7 to 9 days before they're sent to bulk. From the moment the agar wedge gets dropped in the jar, usually 4 days before i give it the shake and that one shake only.

What kind of grain will depend where you live and what you have available, i've worked with milo, oats, white millet and basically the major difference is price/availability. I wouldn't say millet is better than rye or vice versa. It's more of a personal preference.

On the straw pellet question, that would be a hard 'I don't know' because i've never used straw pellets or sawdust with pan cyans.

Hopefully, this will be a significant learning experience for you.


--------------------
:ancientaliens:

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: GnomeEra]
    #29159670 -


Hi all, I recently asked questions about ttbvi, so yesterday I threw out two keik)So I have a few more jars nec d, and I decided to do pasteurization of the substrate according to Baba Yaga's recipe, as my pressure cooker can only hold 3 jars of 0.5L and it takes a lot of time.
I had one brick of coconut fiber with a volume of 3 liters (so it was written on the package).
According to baba's recipe, the manure should be about 20% of the volume of coconut fiber, so I measured by eye one and a half cans of dry manure (750ml) and sent it to the multicooker.
Then I poured hot water over the coconut fiber, and there was not 3 liters but 6 liters.)))
This volume will obviously be too much, so I decided to send half of the substrate to the pressure cooker for further storage.
Tell me 20% of manure should be in the dry amount or in the liquid in relation to the substrate? If in the liquid, there is unlikely to be so much and the substrate will be too much

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: TheAtlantean]
    #29159672 -

TheAtlantean said:
Look into Pans in Monotubs. It’s babayaga’s thread. Great to try if you have a mono laying around from any old cube grows.

Also maybe try the poop tea to hydrate your coir. If you can effectively pasteurize the tea, hydrating dry coir to perfection is SUPER easy.

Let’s us know. Report back. :rockon:



Thanks, I'll have a look! I just don't have an old monotub laying around since I've been using 2 sgfcs. What the hell is the poop tea though?😂


--------------------

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Shop: Mushroom-Hut Grow Bags   Sporeworks.EU Spores for European Microscopy   North Spore Bulk Substrate   Original Sensible Seeds Bulk Cannabis Seeds   Myyco.com Golden Teacher Liquid Culture For Sale   MagicBag.co All-In-One Bags That Don't Suck

Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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