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Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans * 25
    #29123958 -

Auto-Summary
The author shares their preferred method for casing preparation and application, particularly for tricky pans like bisporus and mystery sa. The process involves screening peat, mixing it with calcium hydroxide (pickling lime) and water, adjusting to field capacity, and screening for consistency. The mixture is then pasteurized and cooled. After application, the casing is misted and left to colonize or fruit. The author also mentions an alternative application method, where casing is applied directly over the substrate and then misted after colonization.

Introduction
I'll keep this short, as it's a pictorial and I want to let the pictures do most of the talking.

Anyway, this is my preferred casing prep and application method for more finicky pans such as bisporus and mystery sa.  It has evolved over the last year and a half of working with bispo and a lot of reading on gourmet casings.  I hope it's helpful for folks!  Enjoy :smile:

Ingredients
Peat (I used Sunshine Brand)
Calcium Hydroxide (a.k.a. Pickling Lime)
Water (my tap water is around 7 pH)

Tools
A scale to measure our Calcium Hydroxide
A digital pH reader (I use this one)
Screens (for breaking up peat, I used these, but any screen of similar size will work)
Two buckets
A mixing vessel
A pasteurization vessel
Measuring container (quart)
Measuring spoon (tablespoon)

Personal Protective Equipment
Gloves
A face mask
Safety Goggles

If you get lime on your skin or in your mucous membranes, it's important to rinse the location with cool water for at least 15 minutes to avoid a chemical burn.  Puff also suggested a product to neutralize bases in the second reply to this thread.

Screening the Peat
I started off by breaking up large chunks of peat and running it through a 3/8" screen.


Once I had a good half bucket or more, I ran the mix through a 1/4" screen into my second bucket.  This time shaking the screen, breaking up any small chunks, and picking out any larger sticks and bark.



Mixing our Calcium Hydroxide and Peat
I then measured out five level quarts of peat into a mixing container (27qt tote pictured).  I tamped the quart container down but did not compress it, so my measurement was consistent.


Next, I measured out 20g of calcium hydroxide.  I used a tablespoon and wore gloves and a mask while working with the lime.  While this was approximately 2 tablespoons, I highly recommend measuring lime by weight for accuracy.



After measuring, I used a paper towel to wipe up all the dry lime and dispose of it.  I then wiped everything down with a wet wash cloth.  This is so my partner and I don't accidentally get granules of lime on our eyes, mouth, or skin, via cross contamination, later on.


Finally, I sprinkled the lime over the peat, and mixed thoroughly until the color was consistent (very few white flecks).


Saturating the Peat
From here, I added two quarts of water and mixed it into the peat.  This is way beyond field capacity, as you can see by all the water coming out of my hand. As I mixed, I squeezed and kneaded the peat some, to ensure the entire casing was saturated.


Adjusting to Field Capacity
As I prepped over half a bucket of peat, I have plenty left over to bring the casing down to field capacity.  To do this, I mixed 3.5 qts of dry sifted peat into my saturated casing.  One quart at a time.


The outcome was this.  A bit on the dry side, which is what I want for application later.  I'll mist it after application.


And, a sanity check with the pH reader.  I don't trust readings before pasuerization completely but this at least shows me I'm on the right track.


One More Screening for Good Luck
Well, not just good luck.  I'm also ensuring the mix is consistent and not overly clumpy.  This ensures pH and moisture are consistent, and will ease application.  I also did one more sanity check after screening.  8.1 is still okay.  I'll check again tomorrow after it cools.


And here's how it looked prior to pastuerization.


Post Pasteurization
After 60 minutes of pasteurization, I dumped it into a clean 12qt tote for cooling.  I left the lid off while it cooled, to steam off some more moisture.


Application
After the casing had cooled overnight, I calibrated my pH reader and took a reading in a few spots.  This is a little lower than I would like, but still within an acceptable range.  And when I went back to test it a week later, it had stabilized around 7.2.  So, 20g calcium hydroxide was good, but I'll likely bump it up to 22g on my next run to get it closer to 8.



Next, I grabbed some supplies and spawned an AIO jar of natelensis (not ochra, and not pans as none are ready).


I washed my hands and put on a glove, so I don't get mycelium in my casing.  And then sprinkled small handfuls of casing onto the substrate.  I continued doing this until it was mostly covered.



Next, I used the backs of my fingers to gently spread and level the casing.  I used horizontal motions, avoiding compression.



After application, the casing looks like this.



And after a thorough misting, it looked like this.


I will keep the casing at this moisture level until mycelium starts poking through.  Spraying once or twice a day as needed.  At which point I'll use water droplets on the mycelium itself to read how much I should or shouldn't mist.

At this point, the tray can go straight into fruiting.  Or be left to colonize the casing on a shelf (with a lid on) for a few days if there's not room in my tent.


Alternative Application
So, this is just a little bit different application method I am playing around with.  My preliminary run with this did well so I'm going to share it with y'all.

All right, so first, I allowed the AIO jars to recover when I spawned them for 2 days.  I also gave them a little bit of a mist as I was spawning to help the recovery process.  Here's Pan Mystery SA post recovery.


Then,I sprinkled casing over most of the substrate.  Here's a few shots to show how much I used.




Next, I grabbed a dough knife, and used that to level out the casing.  In some respects, the back of my fingers is easier, but the dought knife is really helpful for edging into the corners.



Here are some shots showing the casing after it has been leveled, as well as the casing depth.




I chose not to spray it this time, as I noticed that misting it before the mycelium has a had a chance to run through it tends to create clumping in the casing.  Instead, I put the lid on and put them on a shelf to colonize for two or three more days. I will update once they colonize and take some photos for y'all.



Post casing run and fruiting
After two days on the shelf, the mystery sa had ran through enough of the casing I gave it a mist and put it in the tent.



Now,I keep it looking like this.  If it starts to overlay, increase fae and decrease watering.



And here's some fruiting shots.

Pan Cyans maturing









--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (03/11/25 07:42 AM)

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: tree frog] * 2
    #29123968 -

I'd recommend some safety specs when working with Ca(OH)2 - it isn't as corrosive as NaOH largely thanks to its lower solubility and dissociation into hydroxyl ions in water BUT you still don't want it in your eyes especially.

they're about $10 on Amazon and will save you from starting a fight club for the blind.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22673219/ here's a dentist who forgot her safety glasses with caoh2. now she doesn't need them.


--------------------
The fool who persists in his folly will become wise.

Edited by phenyl (02/13/25 08:08 AM)

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: tree frog] * 2
    #29123970 -

Excellent write up TF!

I use this stuff at work to treat small chemical burns



It works on Acids, Bases, Oxidizers, and Reducing agents. If you're in Canada, Shopper's Drug Mart has them for around $20.

It also feel good on bee stings and sun burns.

Your safety precautions are admirable, and something like diphoterine might make a good emergency safety measure.


--------------------
I've got skills, they don't know where to use me
I'm like the best dressed guy at the nude beach
Nice to meet you!

Edited by PuffM4gicDr4gon (02/13/25 08:14 AM)

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: phenyl]
    #29123976 -

phenyl said:
I'd recommend some safety specs when working with Ca(OH)2 - it isn't as corrosive as NaOH largely thanks to its lower solubility and dissociation into hydroxyl ions in water BUT you still don't want it in your eyes especially.

they're about $10 on Amazon and will save you from starting a fight club for the blind.

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22673219/ here's a dentist who forgot her safety glasses with caoh2. now she doesn't need them.


Appreciate this.  I'll add a PPE equipment section to the tek.  I wore gloves and a mask this morning.  But, safety glasses would be a wise addition both for the tek and for my lab :heart:

@Puff, I will probably leave that out of the tek.  But, since you're the second reply I imagine most folks will pick up on it.  I'll see if I can find some eye wash information to put in the OP too.  I got a base on my face once at work (yay, kitchens!), and had to go to the ER.  They had me rinse it with water for thirty minutes.

edit:  Actually linked your comment Puff.  And mentioned safety glasses in the OP.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (02/13/25 08:20 AM)

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: tree frog]
    #29124115 -

Yes you made this thread just for my highly specific needs because I was jumping into my pan cyan work currently! Mine are Hawaiian pan cyans, but this should work for that right? I was gonna use your other topic on pans, but this one i think I like even better for my needs...


--------------------
Endlessly endorsing empathy empirically energizing existence™

~Always practice radical kindness~
R.I.P. Betty Boop, greatest mother to ever do it.

Edited by QuantumZ00 (02/13/25 10:03 AM)

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: QuantumZ00] * 1
    #29124136 -

nice, thanks. I'll be starting my first pans soon.


--------------------
This hobby has taught me many things.
Most of those things are patience.

The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Shroomery
The Official Shroomery Cultivation Museum
CakeWars
III

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: QuantumZ00]
    #29124149 -

QuantumZ00 said:
Yes you made this thread just for my highly specific needs because I was jumping into my pan cyan work currently! Mine are Hawaiian pan cyans, but this should work for that right? I was gonna use your other topic on pans, but this one i think I like even better for my needs...


I case everything with this mix.  And a lot of this prep is really about how it turns out when it's applied. Which I will do tomorrow and add pictures for once the casing cools down.

But I wrote the prep more for folks that are struggling with bisporus and mystery sa , as they can be finicky.  And so I have a pictorial to point towards when helping folks out.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: Scemilope] * 1
    #29124150 -

Scemilope said:
nice, thanks. I'll be starting my first pans soon.


:rockon:


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: tree frog] * 2
    #29125597 -

Added the application pictures this morning.

The final PH reading came out at 6.8, so next time I run my prep this way I will use 25 g of calcium hydroxide, which should push it between 7.5 and 8.  If your water is neutral, you follow my prep, and use the same brand of peat as I am, you can probably get away without using a pH meter.

When working with calcium hydroxide though, I do highly suggest using one. As it's a lot stronger than calcium carbonate, and small variances can really swing your pH.

I also suggest taking your final pH reading 12 to 24 hours after pasteurization.  This gives your casing a chance for the pH to stabilize.

Of course, if you want to skip the hassle, jiffy mix is an option and can be used out of the bag.  I personally, have more time than money.  And buying compressed peat by the cubic foot saves me a lot of the latter.

Plus, I get a lot of enjoyment out of making my own casing.  And in turn, helping others to do the same.

If anyone has questions, feel free to hit me up.  Preferably here in the thread rather than DMs, so others can participate in the conversation too :smile:


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: tree frog] * 3
    #29125651 -

tree frog said:
When working with calcium hydroxide though, I do highly suggest using one. As it's a lot stronger than calcium carbonate, and small variances can really swing your pH.



to expand on that for anyone reading this, most relevant molds for casing contamination are acidophiles to neutrophiles and the basic pH keeps mold from proliferating through the casing, not 'good bacteria' alone, as commonly believed (and subsequently blamed on incorrect pasteurisation.)

It's worth double checking the pH of the casing, even with disposable test strips ($5 for a big bottle of them on Amazon), to avoid wasting weeks of work expecting bacteria to do all the work for you.

depending on the environment, source of the peat, temperature and time of year you may be able to get away with more or less. I suspect we hear more from those on the more side than less.


--------------------
The fool who persists in his folly will become wise.

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: phenyl] * 2
    #29125659 -

Likewise, most species of mushrooms we work with struggle with pH over 8.

Most of the folks that ask me about casings don't use a pH reader, and use anywhere from 50% to 100% more calcium hydroxide than I do.

What this seems to result in is more sensitive species, such as bisporus and mystery sa, stalling.  Because the pH is high, competition doesn't develop.  But neither do pins.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: tree frog]
    #29137756 -

Quote:
tree frog said:

If anyone has questions, feel free to hit me up.  Preferably here in the thread rather than DMs, so others can participate in the conversation too :smile:


A little different question, but about casing. Because of what's available I am going to use cactus soil and verm as my casing. The cactus soil pH is 5,5-6,5 and I'm using calcium hydroxide to adjust pH.

I know I should get a pH meter, but where I live I got two options, one is to buy the green ones without battery(that I don't believe work at all) or I can get one from BlueLab(that absolutely will work), but the price tag is 200 USD. I was wondering if there is someone here who already use cactus soil and calcium hydroxide and would share how much to use.

The only thing I could find by searching was, 1tsp(us) for every cup(us) of cactus soil. Since I use the metric system that is 5,7 grams to 236ml, does that sound right?


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: Kloakk] * 1
    #29137787 -

I'm using about 0.6 per cup.

And that's with something with much lower pH.

I would suggest either using calcium carbonate, or starting with like 0.3g per cup.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (02/25/25 09:23 AM)

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: tree frog]
    #29137801 -

tree frog said:
I'm using about 0.6 per cup.

And that's with something with much lower pH.

I would suggest either using calcium carbonate, or starting with like 0.3g per cup.


I already got 1,5kg of calcium hydroxide so I'll just have to make it work :biggrin:

:takingnotes: Got it 0,3g per cup, thanks. One more question, my tap water has a pH of 7,9. That is what I use to hydrate my verm, is 0,3g per cup still okay?

Edit: I will be using 40-50% verm.


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


Edited by Kloakk (02/25/25 09:49 AM)

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: Kloakk] * 1
    #29137875 -

I would do 0.25g per cup of peat with your tap water (don't include verm in your pH calculations, it's neutral so it won't throw anything off).

At that point it's kind of splitting hairs though, how much are you planning to prep?

If you did a quart, probably a gram of calcium hydroxide would be enough.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: tree frog]
    #29137892 -

tree frog said:
I would do 0.25g per cup of peat with your tap water (don't include verm in your pH calculations, it's neutral so it won't throw anything off).

At that point it's kind of splitting hairs though, how much are you planning to prep?

If you did a quart, probably a gram of calcium hydroxide would be enough.


I get that verm is neutral, but I was thinking that my tap water hydrating the verm is not?

And your peat is dried right? My cactus soil is field capacity out the bag and the only info on the bag is 5,5-6,5 unfortunately. So the only water I'll add is to get verm to field capacity and misting after casing. Thinking about it, my water has pretty perfect pH for casing right? Then the verm and water won't matter :muppet:

1 gram to 1qt(I'll use 1L) is a great starting point, easy to double and divide, sound good to me, thanks.
:tipofthecap:


--------------------
“All Fungi are edible.

Some fungi are only edible once.”
― Terry Pratchett


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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: Kloakk] * 1
    #29137911 -

For sure!  I hope it works out well for you and would love to see how it goes :heart:

Also, for everybody, I'm going to update the OP with some alternate application pictures.  Using the same mix which ended up measuring about 7.2 once it settled completely.

But I'm allowing the AIO jar to recover after spawning it, I use a dough knife to level it, I'm not spraying it after application because I noticed that kind of mats it down.  And I'm going to allow it to colonize on the shelf for a day or two to run through the casing.

I will then give it a good spray and put it into fruiting.

I should have those pictures up in about 10 minutes


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: tree frog] * 1
    #29138684 -

:takingnotes: Thank you for sharing!

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: fungusul]
    #29161009 -

On my pallets mycelium always grabs the lid, I immediately give them access to air and humidity and it still eats it.And you also give a few days in a closed box after applying the lid and it still remains intact.This time I left nec d for collonization at room temperature 25-27 degrees, then I will apply the lid and will observe

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Re: Peat Casing Preperation and Application Pictorial for Pampered Pans (wip) [Re: akapulko] * 3
    #29161079 -

Mostly, I did this write-up for folks struggling with Pan. bisporus.  As it doesn't overlay.  And benefits from time to colonize the casing.

For cultures that are prone to overlay, which is often cyans depending on the strain and your agar work, I tend to put them into fruiting as soon as I case them.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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