Auto-SummaryIn this forum post, a grower shares their diverse approach to fertilizing various plants, including cacti and trichocereus. They emphasize the importance of using appropriate NPK ratios and experimenting with different combinations. The grower uses organic fertilizers for most plants but opts for synthetic high PK fertilizers for trichocereus, applying them at night to avoid sun scorch. They carefully monitor UV radiation levels, as indoor plants are often exposed to significantly lower levels than outdoor ones. The post highlights the use of various "Grow" and "Bloom" fertilizers with different ratios, as well as combination bottles like "A" and "B." The grower suggests mixing fertilizers with proper calculations and starting with low doses when using multiple brands. They also touch on the issue of salt buildup, which depends on the quality of tap water used. Overall, this post offers valuable insights into the customizable nature of plant fertilization and the need to consider specific plant needs and environmental factors.
I would add here about: you people can buy several different NPK-ratio fertilizers and try mix them or use as it is. There are probably as much fertilizing habits as there are growers.
I use cannabis grow fertilizers to cactus, but only Grow-ferts to trichocereus. All fertilizers are organic except high PK-Fertilizer, it's synthetic and colorless stuff.. Sometimes I just spray PK-fertilizers to skin of cactus at night when their skin have cool down from scorching sun event It's hard to believe sun scorch indoors cactus trough 3-layer glass in there arctic where UV-radiation levels are 10-20% compared to Spain or other southern EU countries. I follow UV-radiation maps to see when sun isn't anymore powerful at all or when it's power starts to warm up there. But nature effects to my indoor grow many ways, cloudy days, sunny days, etc.
Some of those are "Grow" and "Bloom" fertilizers and so on with different ratios. There are also combination fertilizers like bottle "A" and "B"
I have for example tens of bottles. Some have 4-0-4 or 0-4-8 or 0-17-18 or high N 8-2-5...
These can be mixed if you know how to calculate fertilizers.
I usually add some cannabis bloom fertilizer, naturally low L but enough for cactus.. Anyway, I add few drops of high amount PK-fertilizer there. It's actually designed to cannabis water grow afaik. I still don't see why not to add it to increase PK but no N anymore.
Sometimes I just test out with small doses to mix even strong N fertilizers etc. But Always when you use those several brand fertilizers, read manual and use it first very low percent what manual have text about.
What comes to salt build up.. That's a matter of how bad tap water is. So far in my area Tap water is pretty clear, some people take tap water from nature, not from purification plants. There can be measured those tap waters. IF it's <7pH it's from bottom water directly. If pH is >7pH there is likely purification chemicals. Sometimes I take big cans of water, go to my grandparents and take tens of liters tap water from them, it's under 6pH and very rich with minerals, Cactus plants really enjoy that water. There are some minerals dissolved to it underground over millions of years and they benefit cactus.
Fertilizers fix the pH but don't help with these purification plant chemicals or salts what can build up to soil.
My way of watering is basically same, I water so much water goes away from bottom holes, sometimes before winter I just let water run trough small pots to remove excess fertilizers. I have used also chicken egg shells, washed and dried, then crushed.. Cactus roots attach to them as hard as they attach to rocks. But I add only crushed egg shells very small amount. I am 100% sure that stuff are in nature too, depends where birds do their nest or do another mammal steal eggs and break them somewhere else.
What I have read books it acts as low release fertilizer. It acts faster if you can get it to very powder form. There are also in stores ~50Liter bags of 100% pure crushed egg shells sold as fertilizer for plants. And it's not small company, they sell products all over EU. I wasn't obviously wanted to buy those so I took egg shells when I do some food, then I wash them and dry. Later on I broke them by add those and some rocks to bowl, take my hand and took some and crush them inside my fist with rocks to get nice stuff. But I have to say not all containers have any of egg shells in soil. Some pots may have 2-3year old soil from times I was't used them.. Also I add ash from my bong to surface of soil when I need to clean my bong and fill it again to smoke moar..
This year I have done in purpose late summer fertilizing, I'll see how they behave over winter or do I even see any problems without sun event here is some ferts in soil. Today at 6AM was only +16C(indoors at my plant table) Seems flower buds of plants probably doesn't turn to flowers till early summer... Echinopsis may put out flower out before full winter comes but I don't use artificial light during autumn. It dry air too much and can cause dry skin to cactus.
It's said if +1C more room temperature increase ~3-5% indoor humidity decrease and anotherway, so bottom heat doesn't work without sun heating above windowsill plants and their skin may crack like human skin at winter in frosts. Mid-winter humidity at -30C or lower is obviously low humidity because humidity freeze directly to ice crystals. It sounds crazy but winter heating in cold climate is a problem because humidity can really go so low cactus skin can't tolerate ANY pressure without cracking, especially peyote and other lophophora.
But I have obviously seen low humidity constantly over the day is not good for cactus, they need low night time temps to let humidity increase. And this is about indoor plants at cold climate, even there are sun few hours, no need to use excess heat even it speed up growth speed of lophophora and allow more constant watering(if grower want to) ...Those plants tolerate +50C temps no problem, as long as temps don't stay high over night time. Fluctuating temperatures are basically key to all cactus, indoor growers may have hard time with this but regular room temp can be be turned at summer to "night" and with heat mat during the day gives them "normal day" ...This works with adult mexican miniatures as well as seedlings..
I am sure heat promote lophophora flowering. Water may have something to do this as well but I have said few times here. At mid summer lophophora diffusa did flower bud in 24hour dark because of heat radiator was too high on. Even plant didn't had water for months, it still flowered, flower never opened because light control most flowers when to open. At that point I realize it's not just watering promote floweing of peyote, they need water also but heat waves after watering cause lophophora to flower, if they spent good winter, better flowering the following summer is going to be. Peyote isn't so picky about winter, they seems to flower some but I have two peyote plants, flowered in the past but this year not a single flower on those two. Fricii also didn't flower this year. I have changed apartment almost every year past 4 years so I have had to keep plants under lights because how funny it sounds, I don't have much room where are enough cool to let cactus go hibernation.. Now I have more permanent apartment and can keep plants at same pot over the year and they got cold winter and hot summers indoors.
Most positive effect my windowsill gives are the fact: sun heats my apartment without any electricity even today, if it's not cloudy. Only coldest winter time I need to get my apartment. At summer I need A/C because temps are indoors +30..+35C without it, still I avoid to use it because I barely spent long time in my apartment at summer, I like spent time outdoors when it's warm...
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