Auto-SummaryThis forum post outlines a unique method for sowing seeds using the baggie method, tailored for a collector who seeks a variety of species. The author emphasizes the importance of careful planning and organization, starting with selecting species and recording details in a spreadsheet. Seeds are grouped based on growth requirements, and labels are created using acetate paper. Smaller containers (5x5x4.6cm) are used, and the baggy method is employed to sow 10-25 seeds per pot. The author recommends using RO water and dressing the substrate with gravel to inhibit algae growth. After sowing, the trays are wrapped in cling film and placed in a shaded area. The seeds remain in this environment for an extended period, gradually being transplanted as they grow. The author notes the method's adaptability to various climates and conditions, and shares their ongoing refinement of the process.
WARNING: I do not claim this is the one, the best or even a good way to do this. It is just the method I have come up with after a few years of experimentation and it's the method that gives me results I consider acceptable given the amount of effort or resources I am willing to put to it. It is (and will always be) a work in progress and subject to profound changes. I fear more the refusal to change than putting yourself and your beliefs in question.
I will now try to explain and illustrate how I go about sowing my plants. First thing you must decide is what exactly are you looking for: what kind of species, how many, what for. In my case, since I am a collector, it's variety - few individuals of a large number of different species / populations.
So, the problem is: how to sow (by the baggie method) small numbers of seeds of several different species in such a way that it doesn't take me ages to either put them to germinate or care for them afterwards?
First things first: before you get down to the actual sowing, you must get the seeds. This is catered for well in advance, typically during the winter - which is good, because there's a tedious lot of operations to be performed at this time. Choose your species and list them in a spreadsheet - trust me: you simply CAN'T go overboard with data collecting and recording. You'll thank me later. Assign each species a number, in my case it's a 5 digit number starting with the year (notice all numbers start with '14').
Next you will have to arrange your species in groups of similar requirements / rate of growth. This means that Ariocarpus and Opuntia, for instance, should not belong in the same group. In my case, the groups consist of 21 individuals (more on this later). Once you are satisfied with your work, write CLEARLY on the seed packets the number you have assigned to that species. After this is finished it's time to take care of the labels. In the same spreadsheet program I create a matrix of small rectangular cells that will be printed to acetate paper. These will in turn be cut and used in the individual pots. The acetate will crumble and disappear in 2 or 3 years, but by that time the seedlings will have graduated to individual pots and labels.
You're now ready to start with the actual sowing. The exact time you will do this depends on your particular conditions - earlier if you're in warmer climates, later if you're in cooler places, any time if you plan on doing it under artificial lights. On to the containers...
I decided to go for smaller containers where a small number of seeds (typically 10-25) will be sown. The pots I use for sowing are 5x5x4.6cm and I use the baggy method (google it, if you don't know the principle). However, since I sow tens of varieties each year, bagging the pots individually (or even in groups of 2 or 3) would be highly impractical. Looking around, I found these planter trays that are perfect for housing 3x7 rows of my chosen pots (remember the 21-species-grouping? There you go).
I put a small piece of kitchen paper on the bottom to cover the holes, one sheet of kitchen paper will make 16 small squares that are then separated in individual layers.
These will also degrade fast, but by that time the seedlings will have filled the pot with roots and prevent the substrate from escaping. Fill the pots with the substrate of your choice up to 5-10mm from the top, put them in the tray and put in some water.
Once the water reaches the top of the substrate (a matter of seconds if it is dry), take them out. You will want it to be evenly moist but not dripping wet. Arrange individual pots in a plate or any other support and zap them in the microwave oven. I go for 2x3 minutes at 500w, make sure the pots are separated and let them cool a bit between zappings, otherwise they will start to melt. I know this is very far from surgical sterility but that is not what I'm after. The biggest problem I have faced with my seedlings is either algae or mosses and this procedure, while not killing them completely, will slow them down enough for the seedlings to take a strong hold and fend for themselves. Also, you will help them later (more to come on this).
Take the pots out, arrange them on the tray and put them aside to cool down. While you're waiting, cut your individual labels. Cut the bottom part at an angle, so it will be easy to insert it in the moist substrate.
Label all the pots of a tray in sequence and then get down to the actual sowing. Take each pot out of the tray and place it over a light base. Check to see if the number on the label and that on the seed packet match. Open the seed packet and empty it to a light container (in my case, the lid of a slide box - remember slides? Like digital photos but cumbersome to watch?). Put the seeds on the palm of your hand and with your thumb and index fingers gently spread them evenly spaced (sort of) on top of the substrate (you may wish to "push" slightly the bigger seeds into the soil.
I am currently studying if this is really necessary with a large-particled substrate like the one I'm using). Place the pot in a DIFFERENT tray, in the same order. Repeat till all pots are sowed. Once this is done, wrap the whole thing in a single thickness of kitchen cling film and place it in bright shade. Very important: NEVER let the sun shine on it: it is a closed environment, and the sun will quickly cook everything inside.
That's it. You can leave you seedlings in here for a very long time (a year or two is not unheard of) or take them out after a few months, either to grow on or repot. It's really up to you. One thing I eventually do is dress up the top of the substrate with gravel (~5mm). This will both help the seedlings to stand up and inhibit algae growth through shading of the substrate. Just boil the gravel for a few minutes and let it cool down before using, so it won't carry any nasties with it. When the time comes, I place the tray on a flat surface and carefully peel back the top layer of cling film. After doing whatever I needed to do, I just re-seal the tray with the same piece of film. 
I use RO water, but rain water or any other very low hardness water may be used. It has some highly diluted fertilizer and NO fungicide. I don't feel fungal attacks are a problem with this method.
EDIT: And one year on...
Edited by LSoares (06/23/14 12:18 PM)
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Does this mean you have sowed finally?! 
I don't adam and eve it! 
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