|
Some of these posts are very old and might contain outdated information. You may wish to search for newer posts instead.
|
LSoares
Farmer



Registered: 10/09/13
Posts: 3,209
Loc: Portugal
Last seen: 4 years, 2 months
|
Sowing cacti, the Z way. 3
#20171967 - 06/23/14 05:02 AM (9 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
WARNING: I do not claim this is the one, the best or even a good way to do this. It is just the method I have come up with after a few years of experimentation and it's the method that gives me results I consider acceptable given the amount of effort or resources I am willing to put to it. It is (and will always be) a work in progress and subject to profound changes. I fear more the refusal to change than putting yourself and your beliefs in question.
I will now try to explain and illustrate how I go about sowing my plants. First thing you must decide is what exactly are you looking for: what kind of species, how many, what for. In my case, since I am a collector, it's variety - few individuals of a large number of different species / populations.
So, the problem is: how to sow (by the baggie method) small numbers of seeds of several different species in such a way that it doesn't take me ages to either put them to germinate or care for them afterwards?
First things first: before you get down to the actual sowing, you must get the seeds. This is catered for well in advance, typically during the winter - which is good, because there's a tedious lot of operations to be performed at this time. Choose your species and list them in a spreadsheet - trust me: you simply CAN'T go overboard with data collecting and recording. You'll thank me later. Assign each species a number, in my case it's a 5 digit number starting with the year (notice all numbers start with '14').

Next you will have to arrange your species in groups of similar requirements / rate of growth. This means that Ariocarpus and Opuntia, for instance, should not belong in the same group. In my case, the groups consist of 21 individuals (more on this later). Once you are satisfied with your work, write CLEARLY on the seed packets the number you have assigned to that species. After this is finished it's time to take care of the labels. In the same spreadsheet program I create a matrix of small rectangular cells that will be printed to acetate paper. These will in turn be cut and used in the individual pots. The acetate will crumble and disappear in 2 or 3 years, but by that time the seedlings will have graduated to individual pots and labels.

You're now ready to start with the actual sowing. The exact time you will do this depends on your particular conditions - earlier if you're in warmer climates, later if you're in cooler places, any time if you plan on doing it under artificial lights. On to the containers...
I decided to go for smaller containers where a small number of seeds (typically 10-25) will be sown. The pots I use for sowing are 5x5x4.6cm and I use the baggy method (google it, if you don't know the principle). However, since I sow tens of varieties each year, bagging the pots individually (or even in groups of 2 or 3) would be highly impractical. Looking around, I found these planter trays that are perfect for housing 3x7 rows of my chosen pots (remember the 21-species-grouping? There you go). I put a small piece of kitchen paper on the bottom to cover the holes, one sheet of kitchen paper will make 16 small squares that are then separated in individual layers.


These will also degrade fast, but by that time the seedlings will have filled the pot with roots and prevent the substrate from escaping. Fill the pots with the substrate of your choice up to 5-10mm from the top, put them in the tray and put in some water.

Once the water reaches the top of the substrate (a matter of seconds if it is dry), take them out. You will want it to be evenly moist but not dripping wet. Arrange individual pots in a plate or any other support and zap them in the microwave oven. I go for 2x3 minutes at 500w, make sure the pots are separated and let them cool a bit between zappings, otherwise they will start to melt. I know this is very far from surgical sterility but that is not what I'm after. The biggest problem I have faced with my seedlings is either algae or mosses and this procedure, while not killing them completely, will slow them down enough for the seedlings to take a strong hold and fend for themselves. Also, you will help them later (more to come on this).

Take the pots out, arrange them on the tray and put them aside to cool down. While you're waiting, cut your individual labels. Cut the bottom part at an angle, so it will be easy to insert it in the moist substrate.

Label all the pots of a tray in sequence and then get down to the actual sowing. Take each pot out of the tray and place it over a light base. Check to see if the number on the label and that on the seed packet match. Open the seed packet and empty it to a light container (in my case, the lid of a slide box - remember slides? Like digital photos but cumbersome to watch?). Put the seeds on the palm of your hand and with your thumb and index fingers gently spread them evenly spaced (sort of) on top of the substrate (you may wish to "push" slightly the bigger seeds into the soil.

I am currently studying if this is really necessary with a large-particled substrate like the one I'm using). Place the pot in a DIFFERENT tray, in the same order. Repeat till all pots are sowed. Once this is done, wrap the whole thing in a single thickness of kitchen cling film and place it in bright shade. Very important: NEVER let the sun shine on it: it is a closed environment, and the sun will quickly cook everything inside.

That's it. You can leave you seedlings in here for a very long time (a year or two is not unheard of) or take them out after a few months, either to grow on or repot. It's really up to you. One thing I eventually do is dress up the top of the substrate with gravel (~5mm). This will both help the seedlings to stand up and inhibit algae growth through shading of the substrate. Just boil the gravel for a few minutes and let it cool down before using, so it won't carry any nasties with it. When the time comes, I place the tray on a flat surface and carefully peel back the top layer of cling film. After doing whatever I needed to do, I just re-seal the tray with the same piece of film. 
I use RO water, but rain water or any other very low hardness water may be used. It has some highly diluted fertilizer and NO fungicide. I don't feel fungal attacks are a problem with this method.
EDIT: And one year on...
Edited by LSoares (06/23/14 10:18 AM)
|
Mostly_Harmless
wyrd bið ful aræd



Registered: 05/12/09
Posts: 5,043
Loc: Perfidious Albion
|
Re: Sowing cacti, the Z way. [Re: LSoares]
#20171989 - 06/23/14 05:22 AM (9 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Does this mean you have sowed finally?! I don't adam and eve it!
It is always interesting to see how others prep and sow. My collection could do with a database overhaul and the longer I leave it the more of a chore it is going to be.. dead plants still linger on in spirit in there 
What is the substrate in your pics?
|
LSoares
Farmer



Registered: 10/09/13
Posts: 3,209
Loc: Portugal
Last seen: 4 years, 2 months
|
|
Three trays down, five more to go (and a few more odds'n'ends...). 
My substrate of choice is two parts lava rock, one part something I can't name (it's the result of the erosion of a basalt face near my work. It's no longer "rock" but not yet "clay" or "soil"). The whole sieved to achieve a grain size of 1-3mm, give or take.
That's what I'm using for the seedlings. For adults it's largely supplemented with whatever I feel is needed or available, from worm castings to garden soil to limestone chippings, making up to 1/3 or 1/4 of the final volume.
|
ferrel_human
stone eater



Registered: 06/26/09
Posts: 16,318
Loc: Texas
|
|
You guys starting a cacti plantation or something?
Nice write up Z.
I am curious about that one part you can't name. Could it be...
Anywho, this seems simple enough for any newbie to do. I never really start more seed than I can have room for. I have my own house but with wife and kids it seems like there is never enough daddy space.
good job brother.
-------------------- Nature is my church and walking through it is gospel. It tells no lies and reveals all to those who look, and listen, closely. -Karode
 Looking for Mimosa tenuiflora seeds. Buttons for trade
|
LSoares
Farmer



Registered: 10/09/13
Posts: 3,209
Loc: Portugal
Last seen: 4 years, 2 months
|
|
Quote:
ferrel_human said: I am curious about that one part you can't name. Could it be...
I really don't know. There must be a name for it, if you're a geologist. It's like a really hard baked reddish black clay, it holds some moisture but stays together.
Quote:
ferrel_human said: Anywho, this seems simple enough for any newbie to do. I never really start more seed than I can have room for. I have my own house but with wife and kids it seems like there is never enough daddy space.
I always start more seed than I should.  I no longer have a wife and my girlfriend has her own house, so I don't have a problem with that. Sheltered space to put all the seedlings is a whole different matter, though...
|
Corporal Kielbasa


Registered: 05/29/04
Posts: 17,235
|
Re: Sowing cacti, the Z way. [Re: LSoares]
#20172474 - 06/23/14 09:46 AM (9 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Very nice system
|
LSoares
Farmer



Registered: 10/09/13
Posts: 3,209
Loc: Portugal
Last seen: 4 years, 2 months
|
|
I edited the first post to include another picture...
|
total
Post Office Tyvek Advocator



Registered: 10/03/04
Posts: 11,405
Last seen: 6 months, 22 days
|
Re: Sowing cacti, the Z way. [Re: LSoares]
#20173026 - 06/23/14 12:07 PM (9 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Z, you mentioned the type of water you use, but how do you water? From seed state to seedling stage.
Mist while seeds? Bottom water seedling?
|
LSoares
Farmer



Registered: 10/09/13
Posts: 3,209
Loc: Portugal
Last seen: 4 years, 2 months
|
Re: Sowing cacti, the Z way. [Re: total]
#20173449 - 06/23/14 02:12 PM (9 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Quote:
total said: Z, you mentioned the type of water you use, but how do you water? From seed state to seedling stage.
Mist while seeds? Bottom water seedling?
Ah, yes. That part of the "saving me effort later" I missed.  The cling film will seal the pots and reduce evaporation to almost nothing. If you've done it right, you won't have to water until the time comes to remove the film (it may very well be a year or two, I kid you not). When you decide it's time to take the seedlings out, you should start by poking a few holes in the plastic daily for a week or two. When you finally take the film altogether, you should mist the seedlings twice a day for about a week, then once for another week by which time they will be ready to start behaving like cacti. I then proceed to water them by immersion in the tray: I will flood the tray and wait for the pots to be thoroughly soaked, then drain the tray with a small plastic or silicon tubing (the type used to feed airstones in aquaria). During warm weather I do this weekly, if the weather is humid or cold I may let them be for two or three weeks. During their first winter I will either mist them in the morning or lightly water them, it all depends. Bottom line, they won't rest during their first winter.
|
Thecollective
Resistence is futile.


Registered: 06/23/14
Posts: 83
Loc: The void
|
Re: Sowing cacti, the Z way. [Re: LSoares]
#20173646 - 06/23/14 02:51 PM (9 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Wow, really good job. I've always sucked at growing cacti from seed, I think I'll give it another shot.
-------------------- Oh, God! The stupid! It burns!-Abraham Lincoln
|
total
Post Office Tyvek Advocator



Registered: 10/03/04
Posts: 11,405
Last seen: 6 months, 22 days
|
Re: Sowing cacti, the Z way. [Re: LSoares]
#20173813 - 06/23/14 03:13 PM (9 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
Ah, yes. That part of the "saving me effort later" I missed.  The cling film will seal the pots and reduce evaporation to almost nothing. If you've done it right, you won't have to water until the time comes to remove the film (it may very well be a year or two, I kid you not). When you decide it's time to take the seedlings out, you should start by poking a few holes in the plastic daily for a week or two. When you finally take the film altogether, you should mist the seedlings twice a day for about a week, then once for another week by which time they will be ready to start behaving like cacti. I then proceed to water them by immersion in the tray: I will flood the tray and wait for the pots to be thoroughly soaked, then drain the tray with a small plastic or silicon tubing (the type used to feed airstones in aquaria). During warm weather I do this weekly, if the weather is humid or cold I may let them be for two or three weeks. During their first winter I will either mist them in the morning or lightly water them, it all depends. Bottom line, they won't rest during their first winter.
Oh wow! I was under the impression that you had to mist the seeds/seedlings. But not messing with them for a year sounds like my kinda deal!
What temp ranges do you germinate at?
|
LSoares
Farmer



Registered: 10/09/13
Posts: 3,209
Loc: Portugal
Last seen: 4 years, 2 months
|
Re: Sowing cacti, the Z way. [Re: total]
#20173915 - 06/23/14 03:31 PM (9 years, 7 months ago) |
|
|
I don't control that, which means at this moment that the temperatures are whatever my window sills have to offer. Possibly from 15-25C. I know, it's not ideal, but I can't afford operating a propagator. I should have sown a lot earlier, by April or so. I'm lucky this has been a rather cool spring, temps would normally soar above 30C daily this time of the year...
Edited by LSoares (06/24/14 01:54 AM)
|
poofterFroth
Feel Like A Stranger



Registered: 03/15/14
Posts: 1,012
Last seen: 23 days, 12 hours
|
Re: Sowing cacti, the Z way. [Re: LSoares]
#20359311 - 08/01/14 07:59 AM (9 years, 5 months ago) |
|
|
Do you have anymore pictures or info on the Excel seed data file you created. I'd like to see a little more of it, mostly how its organized & categorized. But also some info about what data/stats are collected as the grow progresses would be helpful.
ex: ID#, Species Name, (???), Place of Origin?, seed count, (???),....etc.?
I'm getting ready to sow a bunch of different cactus seeds and wouldn't mind tracking their initial progress.
--------------------
|
LSoares
Farmer



Registered: 10/09/13
Posts: 3,209
Loc: Portugal
Last seen: 4 years, 2 months
|
|
Here is a picture of my spreadsheet, the full first tray complete with first count. 

"Codigo" - My personal reference number; "Espécie" - species; "População" - collection code, if any; "Localidade" - location, if any; "Quant" - number of seeds sowed; "Origem" - from where did I get the seeds. "Própria" means my own production; "Refª" - the reference number of the person I got the seed from; "Data" - date of sowing; "Sn" - a sequential numbering of counting events.
The next two columns are the current count and the germination percentage.
If you sow large numbers of species you can group them as I did, by similar requirements. It helps you decide when it's time to repot (or not).
|
|