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 Mostly_Harmless wyrd bið ful aræd     Registered: 05/12/09 Posts: 5,065 Loc: Perfidious Albion 
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Sounds like cold pressed neem oil, yes it needs warming to melt it.
Mites aren't fond of water, so combined with some neem they should be well dislodged/disrupted and if you keep a watchful eye and catch any new outbreaks early the worst of the scarring will be over, and new growth will come in good.     After a couple of seasons the damage isn't too noticable. The scarring in the middle on this one, 2 summers later is down the side.  
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 313kbuds Kevlar  Registered: 02/19/13 Posts: 30 Loc: Atlantis Last seen: 13 years, 5 months |
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If you go to a hydroponic store theirs this stuff called mighty wash and its quite effective at killing mites and will be safe to use on cactus. theirs also this stuff called azamax and it is also quite effective also. both are foliar sprays but azamax u water with too but im not sure how it will effect catus's roots.
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intelligentlife Noaidi  Registered: 10/18/10 Posts: 2,627 Loc: EU Last seen: 10 years, 17 days |
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I have used that neem oil by giving it when watering lophophora and sprayed it to the skin.
Lophophoras starts to go rust-like first from the bottom and then to the top. I have one pot where is 10 cactus. Only one have very visible rusting skin and one have very little. Another 8 peyotes are just fine. Also These rust just keep spreading to different lophophora, little by little my lohophoras got that spider mite damage looking rust. Is there any possible that the rust and hard skin comes somewhere else?? Lophs in the picture has actually died.. I don't understand cause neem should work now but lophs keeps getting rust skin. Also skin will go very hard and when lophophora got pressure the skin will crack open. Can anyone confirm that these are only spider mite damage or does the neem oil spray damaged the skin o some lophs? I have one jourdaniana and it doesn't have any marks from spider mites. Is it possible that neem oil sprat "burn" the skin? Is there possibility that I have two problems? like too much fertilizers and spider mites? I have heard that too much fertilizers will make lophophora skin crack. I seriously think these are spider mites but can they spread some diseases to lophophoras or something what makes lophos like this? (skin are not so orange but rusty, when damage is spread more, gently using pressure to lophophora makes skin just crack and it doesn't seem right. How long the neem oil should really be used when I want it to start take effect? Should I left my lophophora without water and put them somewhere cool and get the to very dry if the problem is fungus too? If there is another problem what's got worse by spraying lophs with neem oil water and it controls spider mites, should I just stop spraying them and give water normally? Tihs really starting to get me angry.. Can neem oil spray "burn" the skin of lophophora? Why every lophophoras doesn't have so much rusty zones than another ones? Does the systemic neem oil really even work or should I just continue spraying the surface of lophs with neem oil water? Can the problem be too high pH? too much fertilizer? too hot? I have starting to think that there is something more than spider mites. Ariocarpus are fine, why they are not attacked or is it hard to see from the surface of arioarpus? What should I do? Just water them all more time with strong neem and insecticide water and dry them.. then leave them without watetr and keep them in cool and dry and look what is happpening? I raelly need advice before all my lophs are ugly piece of rusty shit... Damn I am angry cause it is hard to figure out what is the real problem.. I have read so many things why this happens. I can make connection with this problem to tap water..But still another plant's got spider mite damage too. But can too high pH tap water makes things even worse? Should I add small amount of vinegar to tap water with insecticides when I water my lophs next time? Maybe I start to collect snow from outdoors and dry it and use it as water if the "hard water" I use now causes another problem cause one problem is spider mites and neem oil don't seem to work. Or do I have given too much neem??  This is really new to me cause I have got spider mites before, but now somehow the actual damage is more serious and harder to get problem to control.. How long I should keep using neem to get spider mites away? --------------------    
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Mostly_Harmless wyrd bið ful aræd Registered: 05/12/09 Posts: 5,065 Loc: Perfidious Albion
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Applying neem directly does have a chance to damage the stems, as I pointed out earlier on in the thread. Just water can be used to dislodge, and use neem watered in for systemic action.
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karode13 Tāne Mahuta   Registered: 05/19/05 Posts: 15,574 Loc: LV-426 |
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I've never used neem on the cactus so cannot comment much. Any oil-like product and cactus seem to be a bad combination. Especially if placed back into sunlight, as it can strip the protective wax from the skin, leaving it vulnerable to sun damage. I would be interested in seeing pictures of the rust you're experiencing though.
Not good to hear. Post some pictures.
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intelligentlife Noaidi Registered: 10/18/10 Posts: 2,627 Loc: EU Last seen: 10 years, 17 days |
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 There are picture from one pot where my lophs are. Actually one pot where was two lophs, they scarred so bad and goes soft that if they were pressed they just cracked and popped like breaking it self, If I give pressure to lophophora it will got sraight wounds to the skin cause skin is scarred and not elastic anymore. Is this only spider mite infection in the picture? They will go plant from plant.. First they were at two lophs, seems like they change the plant when old is fully eaten. Also Some plants have holes in the side of them.. I don't have this problem in other species, only lophophora. I thinks if this speed is going on, in month these all are scarred like the one now. Also I am afraid they will spread to next lophophoras and so on. Why the neem doesn't help? Do I have too hot and water will dry from roots too quick? Should I water and let them sit in cool one day to let neem and insecticide water get in the plant? I have spray the plants only at night time with neem water, temperature are about +30C so it evaporates fast. Maybe I should make solution of water, neem and insectisides and water these lophs again, another new onew I am afraid most cause if they spread to them. Even I have used Neem to them even they don't have any mites of insects, just for prevention. I am just thinking why the hell this problem is only at lophophora, not any other cactus? Should I use vinegar to tap water what I am using to water my plants now? I have used smelted snow or rain water before, lophophora has grown well.. I don't have actually so big issue with this. For some reason this issue started to getting worse when I change the water from smelted snow to tap water. Can too high pH cause any of these problems? I probably make bit solution with water, add there some neem and insectisides, then like usually drop the pots in the water and let plants suck the water for a while and then next pot and next pot and next... The spot where lophs are gowing with ariocarpus are very hot place, water dry fast and actually 2-4times at week is not killer for my lophs cause of heat and evaporating water. today I go to pharmacy, buy sulfphur and spread it on top of every lophs and ariocarpus I have, I keep that day or two and wash sulpfhur away. it's that yellowish powder. I hear it mamkes wonders to spider mite so I should try it. Spayed water and neem maybe have got some role with cracking skin so I don't use sprayed water anymore.. Only neem to roots and see what happening.. I hope i get rid of them.. --------------------
Edited by intelligentlife (03/14/13 10:35 AM)
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RavensEye Feather Whisperer   Registered: 03/14/13 Posts: 25 Loc: Sol system of Or Last seen: 9 years, 11 months |
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Neem oil is a surfactant and is useless as a systemic. I safely use neem diluted as directed on lophs. It will kill the mites by suffocation. It is very important not to have direct sun on the cacti after you use the neem for several days. The oil can amplify the sun and can burn the skin on your plants. You appear to have some possible burn from your photos but you may have more going on. If any of this brown/yellow material is soft underneath, you may have some rot. Smell the roots and base areas for any sour or sulfery smell to be sure.You may have to repete the neem several times to get rid of any bugs. Wash the loph with a water spray after two days before returning to normal lighting.
Scaring is permanent, but the plant should continue to grow from the crown. -------------------- watching the shadows between......
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GoOnThen Stranger  Registered: 02/06/09 Posts: 1,046 Loc: Australia 
Last seen: 12 years, 5 months |
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If they are on your Lophs they are more than likely on your other cacti it might be that the damage hasn't shown up yet. I have found that the damage always seems to look worse before it starts getting better. I think it must take a bit of time for the scarring to show after the actual damage is done.
I have never used neem on my cacti ether I used natrasoap as suggested by a couple of very experienced shroomery cacti growers. The natrasoap worked really well and after 3 applications I think I have them beaten. I had some Lophs with hardly any damage and others totally smashed. Some of my Gymno's have a small amount of damage but most of my other cacti have been hit hard by the little bastards. I would suggest treating all of you plants that are in the same area as your effected ones as it doesn't take them long to turn a nice specimen into an ugly scarred plant. One thing that is worth warning you about is the natrasoap that I sprayed on my trich grafting stock that I have inside under lights effected them quite badly and came up in black oozing welts. Some were worse than others but all were effected. The trichs that I sprayed outside were not effected the some way and they are all fine. My thoughts on this is the skin on the ones inside under lights is not as tough as the ones that are in the sun but that is only a guess. Cheers Got -------------------- 
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intelligentlife Noaidi Registered: 10/18/10 Posts: 2,627 Loc: EU Last seen: 10 years, 17 days |
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Now I am confused..
One says neem works as systemic, another say it doesn't? But how about another bugs? If I water dip the pot in water where is insecticides and neem oil, should it help to kill other bugs aswell even neem doesn't work as systemic? I don't keep them at direct sun. There the sun is not shining so much yet. This can maybe be come when I used powerful light and neem together? now they are not in direct sun light. I have to keep the plants at windowsill where radator are on. The bottom temperature for my plants are +30C cause of radiator. I can't keep them anywhere else. I have small light to plants cause sun doesn't shine to window where my lophs are. Should I just keep these under weak light, use neem and after few weeks get them to windowsill where they got light and direct sun light? I am starting to make water solution from tap water. I make 3Liters of it. Add very little of vinegar to water cause pH is very high. It is about pH 9. I will add chemicals to water too, and neem. so this is cause of I have used neem at night, water has evaporated and neem has left in the skin, then at day time they have got light and it has "burn" the skin? But this doesn't explain that the rust starting to come from bottom to top. They got light to top.. I will not water the plants and keep them under very weak light and preven windowsill light for weeks. When summer is starting to come closer and window where they are starting to get more sun, I wash my lophs with pure water and keep them at windowsill. At mid summer, I need to lift the lophs to another windowsill where sun doesn's shine. Now when sun shines so low that "cold" windowsill got more sunlight that windwosill where my lophs are. they may get 1-2hours sun light per day, no more. Only undirect light from window. Soon they days here is 12hours long. mid summer days are 24hours long. Okey, so I water my lophs and keep them under weak light rather than natural light.. I wait couple of weeks and then get the plants on windowsill to get full sun. I think small artificial light doesn't make harm to cactus? Before summer, I wash neem away from surface of lophs and let them enjoy. Maybe some day I get them outdoors cause humidity at summer is here very high so spider mites are not problem at summer. Mite problems occurs in this part of the world almost every winter. Winter is about 7months long so very small part of the year is actually warm and nice. But does the neem help with another bugs? I have start to make water where I dip all my plants now. I put there everything exept fertilizers. I have heard that fertilizers may crack loph skin too.. So I have changed the soil more rocky. Well I try this and get them out of the windowsill from natural light when I use neem. I give them light at summer, before that I try to get control of the problem. Do anyone know does small 150Watt light bulb cause problems with skin? I don't think I should keep lophs in dark many many days? it doesn't make sense? Can I use neem and weak light? They got now undirect sunlight, maybe 1-2hours of direct sunlight if is good weather. So I put plants to shady place?? Give 'em neem by spraying on top of them and later on I wash neem away? Is there possibility that I have given the too much neem and some damage comes by that way? Still I don't understand cause few of my lohps died like gettin this kind of cracking skin an that's before I started to use neem.... I don't think there is rot. Lophs are not soft from the bottom of crown. They are just rusted. Atleast grafted ones are getting new grow where is no damaage at all. With own roots growing lophophora it is hard to say, they are growing slow so actual benefir from neem can be seen later. So I can keep spraying plants at night time with neem but just give them less light? Maybe I block the natural light from window and keep only plant light on so skin don't "burn" Actually I thin I will wash the skin of lophs right now with pure water. There is the grafted ones. Loph williamsii and diffusa. Seems that they have started to develop new healthy growth. I have photo from diffusa with flash on and off. Williamsii photo is taken without flash    I think the on problem along the mites has been neem oil with too much light.. If I look these grafted ones. It seems to me that the neem oil has damaged the skin of lophophora at powerful light. I stop giving any spray to plants now. Just keep them growing. Maybe the worst damage has comes from neem oil and very powerful greenhouse growing lights where I have grown san pedro. I kno my san pedros starting to etiolate like hell cause I keep my lophs in very shady place. I just wait summer and get san pedros to greenhouse. They have to tolerate bad light some months now. I check one opuntia robusta cutting. One side skin has turned into white cracky dead tissue. As I remember right, that side of opuntias pad has been closer the greenhouse lights and I have used neem. So maybe most of the problem is wrong use of neem oil? Now I don't spray any longer any of my plants. they smell like neem and I wait couple of weeks and look how's the grafted ones are growing. They are good to look cause they grow faster. now the new grown has nothing unusual. and my lophs are just fine. No soft places at the bottom of grown. Every plant just smell like neem so maybe it is time to stop give it and use water only or I stop using water too.. And lift all my slowgrowers to spot where is cool now and wait until summer comes and I can start grow them. Next time maybe I learn better about neem and how it works. To me when looking the grafted ones and another lophs. Seems like neem has done the damage to lophs with spider mites. Mite population maybe reduced already and neem just raping the sking of plants cause this is only for lophopora. They have different skin than other cactus I have and maybe I have given too much of neem when spraying the plants. And mistake maybe happened when I have keep the plants under grow lights. But only have given neem at night. Now it makes sense that neem will stay to the cactus skin and light will make this spider mite looking damage with spider mites. So there is two problem I think. Edited by intelligentlife (03/14/13 10:07 PM)
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Mostly_Harmless wyrd bið ful aræd Registered: 05/12/09 Posts: 5,065 Loc: Perfidious Albion
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I also had some similar damage to loph skin using neem as a spray, as well as a few other different cacti. Lophs seem one of the worst affected, hence me recommending just a forceful jet of water to dislodge the mites, followed by soil drenches, to suppress any further outbreaks.
This is one of mine with the same scarring, not mites damage.  Neem is systemic. For example : Azadirachtin: an effective systemic insecticide for control of Agrilus planipennis (Coleoptera: Buprestidae). Azadirachtin is systemically taken up by plants through roots and weakly systemic in the leaves. SYSTEMIC INSECTICIDAL ACTION OF AZADIRACHTIN, NEEM SEED AND CHINABERRY SEED EXTRACTS APPLIED AS SOIL DRENCHES TO POTTED PLANTS Efficacy of Soil and Foliar-applied Azadirachtin in Combination with and in Comparison to Soil-applied Imidacloprid and Foliar-applied Carbaryl Against Japanese Beetles on Roses Effect of Azadirachtin A systemic injection on Coelaenomenodera lameensis Berti and Mariau (Coleoptera: Chrysomelidae) an oil palm (Elaeis guineensis L) pest Laboratory Evaluation of the Toxicity of Systemic Insecticides for Control of Anoplophora glabripennis and Plectrodera scalator (Coleoptera: Cerambycidae) --------------------
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intelligentlife Noaidi Registered: 10/18/10 Posts: 2,627 Loc: EU Last seen: 10 years, 17 days |
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But are you stil stand behind what you sat that neem as systemic will work? Yesterday I make 2Liter of water in to big plastic container. I mixed Dimethoat and neem oil in to water, littlebit soap to get neem dissolved. Atleast the plants smells neem. Also I used watered toilet paper, Then wipe lophophoras with it. I think also this might most of be samage from pyrethrin I have used.. Also as night but don't realize the effects when lights are on. Now my lophs get only ~2hours direct sun light, rest of the day they got undirect sunlight from my south-west facing window. I have used same spray to ariocarpus, no skin damages.. Also for trichocereus, no skin damage. One tricho show skin damage at point when I used pyrethrin when it was at that size so that makes me think that pyrehtrin is one factor here too. I have prayed it for plants only 3 times. Neem I have sprayed lots of. The neem damage seems to come by delay?? Lophophora skin seems to be most less resistant to neem oil. I have still watered the lophs by dipping the plants in water where is neem and dimethoat. First when I was starting to use pyrehrin I was afraid it effects to skin and if has. I need to buy new water sprayer, that what I used has neem inside it. It smells neem and everytime I use it, I will smell neem in water. But should it work what I have dipped the pots in dimethoat+neem water anyway? as far as I know you said the neem as systemic is ok to get rid of spider mites. And I think it will kills like mealy bugs from soil easily that way. I water my lophs always dipping them in to water, then when I lift pot up I let the water come away and put the pot back where I grow my lophophora. So neem? Work as systemic by giving it with watering or not? Only way to use is spray it to surface? Or give neem with watering and pure water to spray skin of cactus? What would I do if neem kill spider mites but damage the skin? How can I be sure what causes and what damage? I just think neem is a wonder and I got my lophs look better like never before...  ..was wrong.. But it is right way to by dip the pots in water where is neem and another insecticides? It will help and don't make more damage to skin? 
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Edited by intelligentlife (03/15/13 05:14 AM)
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Mostly_Harmless wyrd bið ful aræd Registered: 05/12/09 Posts: 5,065 Loc: Perfidious Albion
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The links I provided show that neem does have systemic action, but its application has to be done fairly regularly. It is a course of treatment, not a one shot deal with instant results. I found the damage from spraying does have some delay to it, so for cacti, especially lophs, I wouldn't recommend direct spraying. --------------------
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intelligentlife Noaidi Registered: 10/18/10 Posts: 2,627 Loc: EU Last seen: 10 years, 17 days |
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Yes after this, I have used only water and paper and just wipe the surface of plants to get neem away from surface. Actually now I got noticed what is spider mites work and what is cause of neem. Neem will make skin to crack when press it so it's good indicator. I have stopped spraying the lophophora. I have given about 5-6watering times now with neem on water. I water every time plants where is neem added to water. Like I said. I took 10Liters round plastic container, fill it with 2-4Liters of water, then add neem and other insecticides, maybe fertilizers and maybe drop of vinegar to get tap water pH more acidic. I have heard that some cultivars use vinegar. But about the lime stone and lophophora. Lime stone in this part of the world is hard to get. I think my grandfather may have some cause he collecting certain type or rocks, make jewels from them(has maken, now when got old he can't see good) But I have think to go ask if he got lime stome. I maybe have to go back to smelted snow watering again too now instead of tap water. The water from pure snow is good for cactus. Free from chemicals and I have noticed it will makes cactus grow good. cause I am lazy, I just have started to use tap water for cactus even I normally collect water at summer to get high quality water to give my cacti. And ofc I have collected snow from outdoors and smelt it to pure natural water. I have heard that in america some growers add very small amount of vinegar to tap water to getot it more acidic and not so "hard" And as far as I know, acidic normal rain water is the best what cactus can get. I slowly has reduced my collection to plants for cactus what grows slow and can handle the natural lighting here. Lophophora, ariocarpus and few other species can go trough winter without light. Most of cactus can't they grow ugly and etiolated and have to be cutted at spring. So to actual topic: I have keep doing that I make water solution with neem and maybe fertilizers and another insecticides, When soil is dry again, I dip the pots in the water and let cactus drink, thenk I let water what is left run away from bottom and lift the pot there where there were used to be. And that wat I will get rid of spider mites cause neem slowly starting to take effets by systemic way? I don't have expect that neem is instant killer, but now I know that how I deal with neem and lophs. I don't anymore use spray to cactus at all. Only give neem water by dip the pot in water solution I make. Can you say? Maybe at summer the spider mites are amostly way cause of neem? I have used neem since I start this thread so maybe the life cycle of spider mites is already starting to make reducion for population of mites? I will continue to keep dipping the pots in water solution where is neem, dimethoat, drop of soap and small amount of fertilizers(now when summer is coming) I have heard that fertilizing makes lophs skin cracks too but it could not be that. I don't use so much fertilizers. only for tricho. I have fertilizer what does not contain nitrogen at all cause I read that nitrogen can help spider mite population to grow faster too. is it right information I have got? How long the neem watering should be done to get effects seen? Even now when I smell the soil of lophophora and ariocarpus, it smells neem. 
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RavensEye Feather Whisperer Registered: 03/14/13 Posts: 25 Loc: Sol system of Or Last seen: 9 years, 11 months |
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I stand corrected on the systemic activity of neem Mostly_Harmless.I appreciate the links.
I have used neem-oil successfully on LW, diluted appropriatly and sprayed on the cactus weekly for a month. The treated cactus were placed in the shade,and suffered no skin damage. This was done on 3-4 year olds, and once on 5 month old seedlings.Keeping them in the shade afterwards was a lesson originally learned the hard way.I would personally have some hesitation to use it on a specimen with more hairy tufts. Lower humidity levels also help with the control of spider mites. -------------------- watching the shadows between......
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karode13 Tāne Mahuta Registered: 05/19/05 Posts: 15,574 Loc: LV-426 |
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Welcome RavensEye. Your input is along the lines of my thoughts too. If you use a spray on cactus, any spray, it is wise to give them lower light levels. Any full sun and you're more than likely going to have problems. Being cautious never hurt any plants. Making quick decisions and not following advice does.
Intelligent life. STOP WATERING THOSE LOPHS NOW. This includes drenches. I use capitals because if the skin is rupturing it is a good guess they are full of water and are splitting or there's underlying fungal/bacterial infection. You should only be spraying to the point of run off. That is, when you spray you stop once the spray starts to pool and drip down the plant. Excessive watering, coupled with pesticide burn is your problem. Sulpher powder is an excellent miticide and fungicide. Use it dry and dust on your plants. Withhold water and it may even pay to unpot them while you sort out the issues present. Being out of the soil will do them no harm, not any more than they're in already. Don't mean to sound harsh but I know how much this is hurting you and I only mean to help. 
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intelligentlife Noaidi Registered: 10/18/10 Posts: 2,627 Loc: EU Last seen: 10 years, 17 days |
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Now I am really confused.. I will know how to spray loph, how to spray like it got water only to the grown, not to roots. I have grown lophophora some years, this is the problem I have encountered now and it started at the time when I start fight against spider mites.
Before I have got kept mites in control, I suspect that one plant I buy'd has different population of mites and they are more resistant. Also I make mistake to use neem and pyrethrin in intensive lights. I have used dimethoat looooooooooooog time. as long as I have grown cacti. It keeps every bugs away except spider mites.. Okey so; Three different information. I have kept plants now in shady place and water then like usually.. I would stop the watering, just forget them for a while. There are information; No need for sulphur, neem is like sulphur, another say neem work systemic, another says not, another say give neem from water, don't spray, and so on.. I just missed the pharmacy today cause I adviced not to put sulfpur powder on top of lophs. Now these cactis get only very small amount of light coming from window, radiator heats them so watering will dry them very quick. There are -30 or -40C outdoor temperatures so best thing is to keep radiator on than shut if down.. OK SO: NOW I will put all the plant's to table what is near the window. I use curtains to block light. I don't water them. I just spray water to them. I think for sure this damage has come from the time when I keep my plants under very powerful greenhouse lights. Sprayed neem at night and kept plants at full light 14hours at day So this will be the damage from them. Cause it comes by delay. Now my plants don't have any artificial light and windowsill light is weak, even sun is shine to plants about 1-2hours at the moment. I have one tricho pasacana, it has taken damage from pyrehrin spray so I think the pyrethrin has own role on this. I would not water the plants so ofthen but the soil is very easily drying and after all radiator heats the pots so they will dry very quick. I can keep stop watering them as I have planned. I want long period without water to them before summer starts totally. Only thing that I know for sure that Mostly_Harmsless has show pictures from his/her's lophophora before and after spider mites, also he has show pictures from neem oil spray damage lophophora and has given informative links to me.. Tell me very good reason or facts like Mostly_Harmless does so I can believe you another cause you are just confusing me. I don't think there is fungal grow. But not 100% sure.. Maybe I keep the plant's full with water so the skin will crack easily than loph what is dehydrated. I know dehydration doesn't make harm to loph, it makes good to get them dehydrated at some point of even growing season. My small lophs (1,5-2cm) has very little this kind of damage, I have threat them almost same way but only sprayed neem less. They are looking healthy most of them. Only one has very little rust like damage point but it is not like these 3-5cm size lophophora. So those who claim that neem doesn't work as systemic way for lophophora, give me some facts, it ain't fact that it just have written. Like Mostly_Harmless, he/she has shown very much of good information and facts and pictures from own experiences with similar situation... So make some compromise what should I do. Now I just left them without water cause I have planned to keep long dry season to gobulars. I have think to keep them without water about 3-4weeks to let them dehydrate for good. To let them "rest" I can get the lophs to shade, spray the neem for them and don't give light at all. Still there is no proven by links or by experience that neem doesn't work as systemic spider mite control... So who or what I believe? If I do these everything what everyone advice, that's for sure my lophs are dead in few weeks... --------------------
Edited by intelligentlife (03/15/13 07:46 PM)
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karode13 Tāne Mahuta Registered: 05/19/05 Posts: 15,574 Loc: LV-426 |
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Mostly Harmless gives good advice and I would follow that. The thing is, he gave you information and you pushed it to the side and continued making on the spot decisions. Now you're paying the price. Why should I post links and such when I've dealt with spider mites before? Use the search engine and you'll see how my advice has helped others.
If you don't want to take my advice, then that's fine. All I know is I have about 200 healthy lophs and have kept most for some years. They've never displayed the damage yours are now. Neem probably isn't the best for spider mites. Sulphur powder is a proven miticide and fungicide and has been used for longer than you've been alive. Use google to find this out. I shouldn't have to do your homework for you.
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GoOnThen Stranger Registered: 02/06/09 Posts: 1,046 Loc: Australia
Last seen: 12 years, 5 months |
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I would be very surprised if there is any bugs alive on the plants that you have being spraying. I would stop with all treatments and let them try and recover. As I said before the damage always seems to look worse before it gets better. You need to keep an eye on your plants now and watch for new growth that is nice and green like you have seen on a couple of your grafts. If you get new growth that is not nice and green then you still have a problem.
Believe me you are not the only one that has had these sort of issues but just hitting them over and over again with neem isn't going to make them look any better. You now have to give them time to grow the damage out. I understand the frustration of seeing you plants like this but there is no quick fix. As you have seen the scarring does not allow the plant to expand as it grows and if it cant push upward fast enough then it will split so you need to try and slow them down a bit. As it has been stated before the only real way you can do that is to withhold water or unpot them I would definitely start withholding water if the are starting to split especially if they are on their own roots. No neem was used on these this is mite damage       Most of the green on these is new growth some were worse than others but I would have had at least 10 loph grafts that had no green showing at all. Cheers Got --------------------
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intelligentlife Noaidi Registered: 10/18/10 Posts: 2,627 Loc: EU Last seen: 10 years, 17 days |
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There is new nice grow at grafted lophs, no spider mite damage at all.. I kee them as "indicator" but still suspect they can be there.. Now I let my plants be without me in shade place long time. Maybe it is best thing to do.
I don't blame anyone. MY english is not so good and very different structure by language that what is my own language so maybe someone understand wrong and I write that it is hard to understand.. sorry.. I know the neem in my hand has been worst than spider mites to my lophs, that has been in my mind that maybe there are no big amount of spider mite population anymore cause of my aggressive neem use and insectiside use. I have been too hasty.. Still knowting that lophs recover only after year or two..  I know there is no quick fix.. loph grow slow.. damage at cactus is permanent. What I am trying to say, you are confusing me. By saying different things. i know there is many ways to deal with mites. Mostly_Harmless says that keep giving neem with watering, I have do that. As I said. I have watered the plants like usually and give neem with it. Also give it with spraying what seems to be bad thing cause I have given intensive light. And I have written that I just leave the plant be now.. let them just sit and get long dry period. BTW: Some of the cracks has come cause I have tested them by giving small pressure with my hand so it's not from growing with full of water.. Only grafted plant got these crack. Now when I know what the problem is, I don't even touch the lophs cause little pressure makes cracks to everywhere, And open wound = infections, not good not good.. My lophs are not soft at the bottom of crown, they are are like they should be when giving pressure, only skin crack occurs in few of them. Someone are just in perfect condition but now ow I let them be and dry. Don't do anything. 4-5weeks long dry period maybe gives a good chance to get rid of fungus if there is any of it. I don't know are there fungus of not. Lophs doesn't show signs of that like infection. And yes. When I start aggressive treatment with neem seems to be that I have been too hasty with it and damaged the tissue by doing that. That's why I originally asked about neem with spider mites, but no good words said that when spraying neem cacti should be in total shady place and how bad damage neem with light does. I have several species and they have different skin and their damage is zero, nothing.. Grafted coryphanta doesn't have any signs of spider mites or neem. San pedros have scars from mites, lophophora have scars from mites. That's why I first start the attack against spider mites and ask there. My vendor who doesn't have give good advice how he keeps lophophora good without mites. Never asken when I ask when buing lophophora that how I deal with mites. When I got neem buy'd. It was my first time with that oil, I have typically used dimethoat, it is commercial systemix poison and very effective. It's controlled insecticide cause it is instant killer and if it's released to nature, it will kill good life forms like fishes, bees and so on... For sure I know presence of spider mites is chili bushes where full of them. I have cut them and throw away.. Also one palm tree in my house has spider mite damage at leafs. But so in to topic and my action; I know now I have done wrong by givin sprayed neem every night without moving cactus out of light for next days. Now my cactis are at very shady light, I don't have done anything to them cause I just wait and look what's happening. Maybe I give still neem and dimethoat with next watering when I water these. With grafted lophophora I have seen that skin samage has cause cracks and they have them, they are not spider mite damade but grafted loph grow so fast that broken skin will crack open. Loph with own roots: I let them go dehydrated, don't give any neem to surface an later when I water I water only from bottom like usually. I let the surface of loph just be. no water, no nothing. If neem work as systemic like Mostly_Harmless say, I reduce watering periods and give neem with water. Maybe some times give pure water only. next time I water lophs better when I got rain water. Or i go get smelted snow from outdoors when I water my lophs. Now I let them be and take care of them at next month. Thanks to every for advices... I show photos from future when they are got new growth... last winter goes nice, this winter I got mealybug invasion, after mealybugs, I have got spider mites.. and now they have got damage from my use of neem.. Most of cacti does't care of neem spray even in light. lophophora does't like it and now I know it. Ok so I go get suplpfhur powder what I have first planned to do, but there has advice not to do cause of neem is like sulpfhur like when sprayed on top of them. I think local pharmacy sell that yellow sulpfhur powder. Maybe best advice I have heard from another forum is that to put lophs in the shade for week, drop sulpfhur powder top of them and later, mites should be gone. I think neem with me is half of this issue now. But it's good. I have learned how to use and what species can be used neem and what are not so resistant to it. Thanks, I keep your all advices, but the difference of them is confusing, so I try to get some own compromise between them. But now I wait summer, the humidity goes up, spider mites will go away usually at summer, it's very normal here. Humidity in here so far north is very rarely below 50% outdoors, and indoor humidity is too usually at summer time. Many gardening books give advice here so much north makes very clear that winter is worst for house plants. Spider mites comes indoors always and -30C frost, the humidity is very slow! I know you all want to help, i dont want to sound bad dude, my english is hard to understand. now when I understand the circumstances where my lophs have been when I have spray neem (5ml/1Liter) it makes sense why the skin is cracks, My powerful lights what I have used for cannabis grow, Two huge greenhouse light, HAS DONE the damage cause of NEEM on top of the lophs. I don't really have known they should keep in shade. Now I don't even use the light bulbs. I have to start using them for grow food, summer is coming and I need to grow small plants what I can put to greenhouse when they are small so they can grow there whole summer. I post pics later, You know.. _later_ Lophs grow slow.. 
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Edited by intelligentlife (03/16/13 10:49 AM)
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313kbuds Kevlar Registered: 02/19/13 Posts: 30 Loc: Atlantis Last seen: 13 years, 5 months |
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spider mites are very crafty and will become immune to insecticides after multiple uses so switch it up from time to time.
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[Re: 
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And then start to use the neem to for systemic protection/future prevention.
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