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V. bombycina
    #15333376 -

Hello all,

My timing is amazing....I grew Kings when things were blazing hot,
and now I am hoping to get some VB fruits as things cool off.

I am in So Cal and so there is hope.

I have both plastic bags and mason jars of straight straw that are 100%.

I searched the forums for the fruiting conditions and checked GGMM,
but other than confirming that my temps are non-optimal, there was
not info on the physical needs during fruiting.  (I am not in a
position to use the typical outdoor heaps under plastic).

Do these need to consolidate? 

Do I strip the bag off?  All of it, or just the top?  Or do I just
make/widen the holes when eggs appear?

What are the FAE needs?  (Like Oysters?)

Any comments appreciated!

Take care,

JD


--------------------
Boyd Rice told my brother that life is a corny pack of freesakes

Myco-tek.org

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Javadog]
    #15336928 -

I'm also interested in this species and I have some on agar now. I checked in mushroom observer when and where these were observed and I checked the corresponding temperatures, rainfall, etc. here I think your temperature would be okay.
Although in this paper page 3, 35ºC is the optimum for myc. Was the myc thin, almost transparent? I'll be following this thread closely :laugh:

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: sparkle]
    #15337360 -

Actually, I am in southern california, near the water, and so I do
have a chance.  This is why I was able to get King Oysters in September.

What I am hoping to find is recommendations as to how best to fruit
my bags and jars of straw.  I am thinking that I will wait for
primordia then strip the bags down (but how far?).

Good luck,

JD


--------------------
Boyd Rice told my brother that life is a corny pack of freesakes

Myco-tek.org

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Javadog]
    #15337659 -

In this linkhere
Houdinair was not quite sure either, but guess striped bare.

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: sparkle]
    #15337685 -

I meant stripped bare or halfway. Oh and it was lionsman's thread

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: sparkle]
    #15338253 -

Thank you for the reminder sparkle.  I read that thread at the time.

From that thread:
"with eggs forming in the sealed bags after 3-4 weeks. The bags were opened up to allow the eggs to develop."

This is a place to start.

Thanks again,

JD


--------------------
Boyd Rice told my brother that life is a corny pack of freesakes

Myco-tek.org

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Javadog]
    #15338339 -

Looking at those myc of yours that were almost eggs..can we eat that myc. Did you taste it? I would have fried a couple of slices but I don't know any better. I know they feed it to livestock with a protein content higher than milk.

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: sparkle]
    #15381773 -

Hi Javadog, what's happening with your bombycina? Mine is taking forever on millet grain. How log did your substrate colonize?

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: sparkle]
    #15381808 -

Hey Sparkle,

I kinda hi-jacked your other thread with photos.

(am I making sense?  I may be crossing wires)

Yeah...it's me...it was someone else's thread:
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/15381247#15381247

I am actually getting my first fruit...a little in-vitro number.

I will take a little print too!  ;0)

I will post results, if all goes well.  If I go dark, then feel free to ask.

Take care,

JD


--------------------
Boyd Rice told my brother that life is a corny pack of freesakes

Myco-tek.org

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Javadog]
    #15395358 -

Hi JD, I'm interested to know what happened t your eryngi grow in summer. I so want to grow that but temps here in tropical Philippines is 70- 90 º F year round. Do i have any chance at all?

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: sparkle]
    #15396112 -


Hello all,

I have my first cap on foil.



I know that a slant of proven genetics is a preferred tek
for edibles, but I want heat tolerant restartability.

I do have a couple of questions about Vb:

I am varying the degree/time of consolidation, as I have about 5 fully
colonized bags to work with.  I am not seeing in-bago pins, and will
likely just put the last two into FCs soon.

Q: So, how does consolidation affect this species?

I am seeing a "browning" of the surface of the jars of straw, both
before birthing (i.e. those bags/jars that I am allowing to continue
consolidating), and of the tops of bags/jars that were birthed when
still white on top.

Q: Can fruits form from this browned surface?  (I want to scrape it!)

Here is an unbirthed jar:


Here is a birthed block (thru the GH cover == bad photo):


Any other thoughts on fruiting this species will be appreciated.

Take care,

JD


--------------------
Boyd Rice told my brother that life is a corny pack of freesakes

Myco-tek.org

Edited by Javadog (11/22/11 12:32 PM)

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Javadog]
    #15412274 -

OK, so I am alone on this one. ;0)

If I do not get eggs from the browned jar above, then I will test
scraping the surface, if only to screw with this unproductive number.

I will post results, if there are any.

Take care,

JD


--------------------
Boyd Rice told my brother that life is a corny pack of freesakes

Myco-tek.org

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Javadog]
    #15418228 -

Hi JD,
What's happening?

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: sparkle]
    #15419349 -

Nothing.  The blocks are browning, but no eggs.

No one has responded on this issue, so I cannot say for certain
if this is resolving as it should.

I did get one nice print from the one in-vitro fruit.  Nice and clean.

I know that proven isolates are preferred to prints for edibles, but I
also still have dishes for when it gets warmer where I am.

Take care,

JD


--------------------
Boyd Rice told my brother that life is a corny pack of freesakes

Myco-tek.org

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Javadog]
    #15420330 -

Hi JD,
Remove the colonized substrate from the bag and keep it in your fruiting chamber or do this, remove the bag keep it anywhere if yo u do not have fruiting chamber, after every 8 to 10 hours cover the substrate with a polythene and remove it after 4 hours. Keep lighting and aeration in the room.
Cheers and best of luck although I doubt these to fruit as these are too old bags.
Vishal.

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: vishal779]
    #15420636 -

Well, better late than never. ;0)  I will restart if I have to.

(I may focus on other species until the weather warms)

Thank you for taking the time,

JD


--------------------
Boyd Rice told my brother that life is a corny pack of freesakes

Myco-tek.org

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Javadog]
    #15426014 -

Hey JD,

I wish I could help with the fruiting conditions. I can only say that V.b. does not depend on tropical temperatures and that a very thin layer of moist, pasteurized or sterilized soil on top catalyzed the formation of primordia when I had a lazy jar.

However, since you posted the pictures of your two bags and the browning jar, I wonder if you inoculated with pure V.b. mycelium. In all my experiments up to now, I always saw it like in your fruiting WBS jar, never so dense and white, especially on unsupplemented straw. Regarding the brown surface in the jar, I know colors like this from V. volvacea, but I have never seen anything darker than a pale brownish yellow from V.b. yet.
If there is the possibility of another mycelium in your culture, I'd clone the next egg, just to be sure.

Carsten

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Mycelio]
    #15426454 -

Well, we are both wandering toward the truth. ;0)

Thank you very much for taking the time.

As the songs said "Freedom's just another name for nothing left to lose",
and so I am trying a few things before I just check the blocks/jars.

I have already seen when V.b. mycelium can "collapse"...but I also
saw brown, but not so dark, on dishes.

I decided to rip a chunk off the fully bag-stripped block.  Lipa
reported fruitings on agar where he cut it, so I figure that it
cannot hurt to try.

I am pretty sure that my temps are my problem.

...I got Kings during a heat wave in September (Lipa visited and
worried that my block which looked wonderful, would not fruit)  Now, the
fruits were not many, but they were large and fully developed.

So, I am just ignoring nature more than I should.

...but if I happened to isolate a cold weather strain of straw mushroom,
then I would be free to retire to my new mushroom farm. ;0)

Take care,

JD


--------------------
Boyd Rice told my brother that life is a corny pack of freesakes

Myco-tek.org

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Javadog]
    #15430848 -

Sorry, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I thought posing this question on an ongoing V. bombycina thread made sense.

At what temperature do you store your V. bombycina plates and slants? I've been storing plates at the same temperature of V. volvacea, which is to say very high: 57 degrees F. Is this completely wrong? I know the fruitbodies will keep refrigerate. But what about agar cultures? I have my choice of 3 refrigeration temperature: 34 degrees (standard), 52 degrees (tropicals), and 57 degrees (V. volvacea). Which is completely safe for storage?


--------------------
Liberté, égalité, humidité.

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Re: V. bombycina [Re: Terry M]
    #15432582 -

Hey Terry,

I will have to look up the temps, but I am sure that
the optimal temps are even higher than that.

This is a very warm weather species, and my temps are what
prevented me from getting eggs.

Do not put any Volvariella petris in the fridge.

Take care,

JD

Here (thanks houdinihar):
the growing criteria from stamets:

GROWTH PARAMETERS
Spawn Run:
Incubation Temperature: 75—95 degrees F (24-35 degrees C)
Relative Humidity; 80—95%
Duration:  5—10 days
CO2; >5,00O ppm
Fresh Air Exchanges: 1
Light Requirements; no light

Primordia Formation:
Initiation Temperature; 80—90F (27—32 degrees C
Relative Humidity; 90—100%
Duration; 4-6 days
CO2 : 1,000—5,000 ppm
Fresh Air Exchanges: 4—5
Light Requirement%: 250—500 lux

Fruitbody Development:
Temperature; 80-90 degrees F (27—32’C)
Relative Humidity: 85—95%
Duration; 6—10 days
C02: 1,000-5,000 ppm
Fresh Air Exchanges; 4—5
Light Requirements; 500—750 lux
Cropping Cycle:
7—12 days

Edited by Javadog (11/27/11 08:08 PM)

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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms
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