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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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Re: Bought these to make monotubs (pics) [Re: koopa_troopa]
    #11243054 -

koopa_troopa said:
It will work but it will not form an optimal "fruiting atmosphere." In my experience shrooms act like goldfish to some degree.. the larger the bowl the larger the goldfish will grow. If there is not much room between the casing and lid, it will cause the shrooms to grow shorter.

I use tubs almost that exact same size but dub tub them, while also using a fish tank air pump to pump in fresh air 15 min every hour to increase fresh air exchange. Doing this caused my 1st flush to go from 3/ 12 oz when tub was used as a mono to 9 oz as dub tub with air pump.


Hey koopa. i appreciate the input. althought i wont do the dub tub in this project id like to try that fresh air induction thing your doing every fifteen mins. i figured this is stuff i can buy at petco. can you explain your setup better? any pics?

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Re: Bought these to make monotubs (pics) [Re: Junkboxer]
    #11243416 -

Junkboxer said:
koopa_troopa said:
It will work but it will not form an optimal "fruiting atmosphere." In my experience shrooms act like goldfish to some degree.. the larger the bowl the larger the goldfish will grow. If there is not much room between the casing and lid, it will cause the shrooms to grow shorter.

I use tubs almost that exact same size but dub tub them, while also using a fish tank air pump to pump in fresh air 15 min every hour to increase fresh air exchange. Doing this caused my 1st flush to go from 3/ 12 oz when tub was used as a mono to 9 oz as dub tub with air pump.


Hey koopa. i appreciate the input. althought i wont do the dub tub in this project id like to try that fresh air induction thing your doing every fifteen mins. i figured this is stuff i can buy at petco. can you explain your setup better? any pics?


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Re: Bought these to make monotubs (pics) [Re: lazylightning78]
    #11244579 -

ttt

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Re: Bought these to make monotubs (pics) [Re: Junkboxer]
    #11254713 -

ttt

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Re: Bought these to make monotubs (pics) [Re: Junkboxer]
    #11324896 -

Hey guys.... been swamped with midterms lately.. basically living out of the university library.. which usually isnt the best place to be surfing the shroomery :smile: Last thing I want is that librarian cop from Seinfeld dropping in on me.. if unreturned books get him that pissed id hate to see how he would react to parusing drug related forums.. haha..

So to make up for it I'll give yall the super detailed low down.. This method has so far proven to increase not only the avg fruit size, but also pin set abundancy while simultaneously decreasing the % of abort (normally these last 2 factors are positively correlated, i.e. the greater the pinset the greater the # of aborts). I have found that providing timed intervals  of constantly moving air & FAE facilitates evaporation which supports better fruit maturation via a capilarry effect.

If your an experienced cultivator there is another great benefit of using timed FAE periods of alternating frequency. We know that high co2 levels cause long stems and small caps. We also know that low co2 levels are needed to initiate pinning. But rather than do the standard, lower co2 levels at pinning, and keep them low, you can play with them due to the control you have over your system. Basically, lots of air exchange at pinning to encourage pins to form. Once pins are set, during fruit maturation, give periods of decreased fresh air so co2 levels can build. don't go overboard, or you'll get skinny stems and small caps, so make sure you give fresh air periodically. Specifics will varry according to your set-up, air to bed ratios etc, so you have to play. But basically, what you are doing is using periodicly elevated co2 levels during fruit maturation to stretch the stems, but giving enough fresh air often enough to keep the stems thick and the caps proportionate. The key is to keep the air moving at all times via recirculation, letting the co2 build over a period (couple hours-1/2 a day even), then resume a normal air exchange rate.

A simpler method is to allow an air pump to run 30 min per hr for the first day or 2 when initiating pinning. You may want to supplement these heavy periods of fresh air with a very light misting during this time to make up for the moisture loss (which should be neglegible to to the fairly week influx of fresh air) after pinning decrease this amount to 15 min per 5+ hrs for a day or 2 to incourage lateral growth due to CO2 build up. After this period go back to 30 min per hr to decrease lateral growth, while increasing thickness. You may have to play with these times a little bit but I have had excellent results using this method. If there is enough interest shown here I will make a pictorial tek of much greater detail.

My Setup
I use the 100+ qt clear sterilites tubs, dub tubbed.
I fashion 2 T shaped splitters to re-route the aquarium tubbing on both ends of the tub and drill 4 holes, 2 on each  side (the longer sides) about 1/8th of the distance from the end corners and allow the tubing to go about 1 1/2 - 2 inches into the tub. I use the aqua culture pumps from wally world with 2 outgoing exhausts (for lack of a better word) One pump per tub.. sounds expensive (10-15 bucks a pop) but not when using ginormous 100+ qrt tubs.

When dealing with such a large substrate make sure to use heavy spawn ratios. I use 3 medium sized spawn bags each consisting of 3 qts of grain. Make sure to layer the spawn and substrate and using double the amount of spawn for the last layer of spawn. This works as a super nutrient reserve for the mushrooms and is necessary to prevent aborts. I say this bc with this method you will typically have a HUGE pin set and otherwise there would not be enough nutrient reserves to support them to maturity. I will typically use almost an entire medium spawn bag for this layer. My last grow using this method produced nearly 10 oz dry first flush.

In regard to the aquarium pump, make sure you remove the bottom filter and cut out the circular intake on the bottom completely to allow greater intake. No need to worry about filtering the air for contams since it is an already colonized substrate. The aquarium tubing should come in about an inch or 2 above your desired substrate level to effeciently remove c02 build up at the substrates surface.

Feel free to ask any questions or PM me.. If there is enough interest in this technique I would be glad to make a pictorial Tek as im sure this is alot of info to digest in a single rambling post :smile:

KOOP


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Koopa OutOfThisWorld,SmilingDownOnOurs: BirsdEyeView,NeverNewLife,PastsFastAsCars

Edited by koopa_troopa (12/02/09 12:40 AM)

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Re: Bought these to make monotubs (pics) [Re: koopa_troopa]
    #11325091 -

Well sonnuva....  after reading this I'm gonna have to dubtub my 11-12" sterlite tubs and try a huge one like that 45 gallon to monotub.  More reading to do :smile:

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Re: Bought these to make monotubs (pics) [Re: Mastermind729]
    #11325153 -

btw I gotta give some props to another member who gave me a similar idea on alternating FAE intervals a few years ago.. cant remember who it was but was on another site.. thanks who ever you are.. please chime in if you ever stumble across this!


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Koopa OutOfThisWorld,SmilingDownOnOurs: BirsdEyeView,NeverNewLife,PastsFastAsCars

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