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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: PuffM4gicDr4gon]
    #29479343 -

@ PuffM4gicDr4gon
Yes the ones I find in wild the stems dry to almost nothing. The one that I grew though the stem grew like 5x thicker, and it looks like I can possibly get a clean sample from inside. I'll try to search some threads for more details on it.

@ tree frog
Thanks for posting that subgenus chart I think it will help some.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29479356 -

Should there be any moisture in the bottom of an AIO jar when fruiting? Is this supposed to evaporate out to make the mycelium trigger primordia formation? Or is it evaporation from the surface that is only important?

I got a humidity checker to throw in my tub setups and I know people say it's not accurate, but playing around with it between my inside and outside tubs, I can somewhat calibrate it to my environment and at least see if humidity is evaporating or not. I can also monitor and disrupt my environments less when doing CO2 flushes.

At what humidity should I be trying to fruit at? And what are some of the most common ranges for Panaeolus? I have tried keeping it at 99%, which actually was a lot easier than I thought it was, and my jars were actually able to hydrate very well but the surface was getting too wet. I have backed off on the humidity for a bit, slowly moving moisture out from the jars now.

I am wondering if maybe my species needs less humidity and maybe 95% is too much, or maybe it's just the small amount of moisture in my jars that the lower mycelium is holding onto that is keeping primordia from forming (and maybe 95% is where I should be?). One source I read online (not shroomery) said something as long as you're above 80% you should be fine and primordia can develop (site looked legit but IDK).

Just trying to figure out if I should be trying to keep humidity constant in the 90-95% range (with maybe more quick CO2 flushes), or if I need to be doing stronger cycles between ranges, like 95% for a bit, then lowering to 80 or 85% for a bit (still unsure of how much time in each range).

The hygrometer seems to be helping as at least now I can guarantee humidity movement by measuring in the inner-most tub and just outside of that and playing around with the lids, tracking how fast things are flowing, etc.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29479382 -

tultedspoon said:
Should there be any moisture in the bottom of an AIO jar when fruiting? Is this supposed to evaporate out to make the mycelium trigger primordia formation? Or is it evaporation from the surface that is only important?

I got a humidity checker to throw in my tub setups and I know people say it's not accurate, but playing around with it between my inside and outside tubs, I can somewhat calibrate it to my environment and at least see if humidity is evaporating or not. I can also monitor and disrupt my environments less when doing CO2 flushes.

At what humidity should I be trying to fruit at? And what are some of the most common ranges for Panaeolus? I have tried keeping it at 99%, which actually was a lot easier than I thought it was, and my jars were actually able to hydrate very well but the surface was getting too wet. I have backed off on the humidity for a bit, slowly moving moisture out from the jars now.

I am wondering if maybe my species needs less humidity and maybe 95% is too much, or maybe it's just the small amount of moisture in my jars that the lower mycelium is holding onto that is keeping primordia from forming (and maybe 95% is where I should be?). One source I read online (not shroomery) said something as long as you're above 80% you should be fine and primordia can develop (site looked legit but IDK).

Just trying to figure out if I should be trying to keep humidity constant in the 90-95% range (with maybe more quick CO2 flushes), or if I need to be doing stronger cycles between ranges, like 95% for a bit, then lowering to 80 or 85% for a bit (still unsure of how much time in each range).

The hygrometer seems to be helping as at least now I can guarantee humidity movement by measuring in the inner-most tub and just outside of that and playing around with the lids, tracking how fast things are flowing, etc.



why don‘t you try to grow one flush of cubensis, something basic and easy? for starters?


--------------------
the observer is the observed
            j. krishnamurti


>The Hitchhiker‘s Guide to the Shroomery<

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: chris77]
    #29479394 -

I really appreciate all of the cube recommendations, not really interested in cubes though. If I come across some wild cubes I would maybe run some jars, but Panaeolus trips are more towards the experiences I'm after. Plenty of other people have talked why they prefer Panaeolus so feel free to read those reasons.

Do you have any advice on my humidity spec question for Panaeolus? Any experience with fruiting Panaeolus with actual measurements or times from jars? (or whether you noticed needing residual moisture in the jars to evaporate out for primordia to form?). Trying to stay on topic here with Panaeolus questions.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29479423 -

….First, you can mist up to the pin formation, but you really must stop watering once the pins start to form. These pins abort easily and misting them will abort them. Once the pins are well set, one should try to reduce the humidity in the chamber to 85% to 95%. Don?t allow it to stay up around 100% or else the pins won?t mature as they should. Cubensis doesn?t seem to mind near 100% humidity all the time--although you risk forming mold in your casing--but these don?t like it and you also strongly risk forming mold in the casing. Just crack the lid a little open if you don?t have any other way. Fresh air requirements are technically not more than cubensis but they tend to get super tall in high CO2 environments and less stocky. It all depends on what you want. Lastly, keep the chamber a little warmer than cubensis. I recommend 75F to 82F…

from an older pan thread. might be a starting point?

if you had any experience growing mushrooms you would find it much easier to go from there.
best of luck


--------------------
the observer is the observed
            j. krishnamurti


>The Hitchhiker‘s Guide to the Shroomery<

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: chris77]
    #29479436 -

OK thank you, I have tried all of this, but now that I have a way to estimate humidity levels, I should be trying to keep it at 99% until I see some pins? Even with misting?

I held off misting for the past 2 days because the jar seemed to be taking on water with how humid I was making it. I let a good amount evaporate off hopefully trying to get the mycelium to panic and form pins.

So I should just mist lightly again, tilt the inside lid? What percentage would you let it drop to before misting again? After I mist it, do I let the mist hit the surface again or should I just rehumidify the chamber with misting and then put the jars back in to sit in around 99% humidity?

I've tried variations of everything we've talked about, for some reason it does not want to pin easily and I'm trying to dial in if the jars want constant humidity or if I'm supposed to be cycling dropping the humidity some to trigger evaporation and hopefully pinning.

I can maybe see 1 or 2 very tiny pins inside the middle of one jar from where the substrate pulled away and there is space. It is formed on the side of the jar and growing towards the BRF, and is stalled. It's not aborted or anything, but it has no "root structure". Not sure if this means it wants higher humidity or what.

It's such a struggle to get primordia to form without overmisting or too much humidity, which was why I'm trying to see if I need to be dialing in something like a 92% humidity or 94% humidity, and whether or not I need to be short cycling this down some for evap cycles. I've kept it at 99% humidity before for prolonged periods and that does not seem to make it want to pin.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29479447 -

I'll just try to keep balancing surface conditions and maintain close to 99% humidity for longer.

Maybe I need to keep these perfect surface conditions for longer before I try more evaporation cycles? It seems like I had already been maintaining these conditions for the recommended time frames. No pins were developing, everyone kept saying evaporation was a pinning trigger, so I tried to slowly monitor very light evaporation.

Not sure which way is better: The constant perfect surface conditions with high humidity, or misting/humidifying with small amounts of monitored evaporation for Panaeolus primordia formation.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29479456 -

"I let a good amount evaporate off hopefully trying to get the mycelium to panic and form pins."

Tilted you can't social engineer them Into pinning :migraine:

Can I ask, have you had your face over your grow without a lid and without a face mask? Let's say more than twice?


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: conz0r]
    #29479464 -

Those shrooms you're fisting conz0r, what humidity % did you get primordia at? How many days did you maintain proper surface conditions before primordia formed? How frequent were your CO2 flushes to make sure there was no buildup of CO2?

Did you do any evaporation cycling or no?

Those look similar to the shrooms I was growing, texture looks similar. Just trying to get some insight. Help please.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29479472 -

tultedspoon said:
Those shrooms you're fisting conz0r, what humidity % did you get primordia at? How many days did you maintain proper surface conditions before primordia formed? How frequent were your CO2 flushes to make sure there was no buildup of CO2?

Did you do any evaporation cycling or no?

Those look similar to the shrooms I was growing, texture looks similar. Just trying to get some insight. Help please.



In response to humidity question:



Hopefully that was educational... Everybody needs this video sometimes.

I was told unless you're working in a large area, a humidity meter is meaningless, at high % they tend to bug out. I don't use a meter, I heavy mist after casing, mist surface once water beads have evaporated lightly and then leave until harvest.

I'm only 6 months in myself, I have no wisdom to share but this: listen to what the trusted cultivators are telling you and put it into practice.

Also if you ask more than on question in a post repeatedly, you're likely not gonna get all the answers you want - especially if they think you're not listening.

Really hope to see less questions and more progress pics, good luck :goodday:


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





Edited by conz0r (02/10/26 03:34 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: conz0r] * 2
    #29479495 -

To follow this up...here's an article about cheap hygrometer performance compared to a cheap scientific one around $130.

But basically, spend the $$$ for scientific instruments because cheap stuff won't work. All teks here are designed to help regulate growing conditions. Even in a joc tent you can just flood and vent regularly, and dial according to surface conditions.

Stop obsessing over minutiae and do the basics: clean agar, clean transfer, clean grain, and that will go way further than hyper optimizing your bulk substrate. bad anything before bulk can guarantee failure. Bad bulk usually just affects yields.

After that, just dial according to surface conditions, FAE. and other obvious details.


--------------------
My posts are long winded and dense.
Supplemented coir experiments< Currently ongoing spring 2026.

~Agar~ 1000mL water = 1000g water. use ~1% agar...1% of 1000g is 10g.  For cubes, use between 1-2% nutes (10-20g). For pans use 0.5% nutes (5g).

Everything I have typed is purely fiction, and is purely for personal amusement.
All images I've posted are not mine and I am simply posting interesting things I found on the Google.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Kunta Kente]
    #29479526 -

Is patching casing still regarded as optimal? That is, adding new casing material to areas where mycelium is breaking through the existing casing layer?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: bongoman] * 5
    #29479584 -

I've never patched pan cyan casings.  They usually colonize it a bit and then knot all over the surface.  If they stay vegetative, rather than knotting once they hit the air, I generally look at the culture or the conditions.  Otherwise I think there's some species in the subgenus that might prefer a different casing but I haven't started testing much.

Anyway...  Cyans...



Perfection.



--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (02/10/26 10:33 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29479647 -

tree frog said:
I've never patched pan cyan casings.  They usually colonize it a bit and then knot all over the surface.  If they stay vegetative, rather than knotting once they hit the air, I generally look at the culture or the conditions.  Otherwise I think there's some species in the subgenus that might prefer a different casing but I haven't started testing much.

Anyway...  Cyans...




Perfection.





:cookiemonster: Tree-frog strikes again!

There you go Tuttle! That's what you're asking for in the flesh.


--------------------
Be lucky, may light walk with you.





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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread *DELETED* [Re: conz0r]
    #29479944 -

Post deleted by conz0r

Reason for deletion: Doxxing myself and rule violation - apologies!

Edited by Stipe-n Cap (02/10/26 03:43 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: conz0r]
    #29479963 -

No vendor talk on the boards fam!

And for fucks sake, remove that image so you don't doxx yourself.  Also be careful, some folks can get vindictive.  Not good when they have your address.

Best to let it go and stick to trusted vendors and the marketplace.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (02/10/26 03:39 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: conz0r]
    #29479986 -

[
conz0r said:
I'll make this quick but here's the rub...

Beware Redacted as a vendor. The Eungai bag I ordered he refunded me $100 for getting it wrong and now wants $50 back because the postage should still be on me? But what he's disputing is that I only sent him $50 so -

Don't dox yourself*

You'll notice a $200 after the first which after 14 days of it not being sent out because he pleaded poverty I sent the postage again to get it moving ($34 seen). 9 plates and 1 swab - swab was missing and included was the single variety I said not to include. The swabs aren't coming either.

I was gonna leave it because I'm not a bitch but he seems to have reached out to somebody I respect greatly and done whatever it is he does. I won't say what he is or isn't on a personal level - on a professional one it's a poor show and I know he's messing around other people because he said "I need that $50 to send out other orders" so i suspect I'm being used to pass the buck.

Good lucky party people, may your path swerve wankers like this.

** If your his friend please don't flame me, I've been as mature as I can about this. I'm not in the habit of letting wankers use my headspace.



conz0r said:
I'll make this quick but here's the rub...

Beware Redacted as a vendor. The Eungai bag I ordered he refunded me $100 for getting it wrong and now wants $50 back because the postage should still be on me? But what he's disputing is that I only sent him $50 so -

Don't dox yourself*

You'll notice a $200 after the first which after 14 days of it not being sent out because he pleaded poverty I sent the postage again to get it moving ($34 seen). 9 plates and 1 swab - swab was missing and included was the single variety I said not to include. The swabs aren't coming either.

I was gonna leave it because I'm not a bitch but he seems to have reached out to somebody I respect greatly and done whatever it is he does. I won't say what he is or isn't on a personal level - on a professional one it's a poor show and I know he's messing around other people because he said "I need that $50 to send out other orders" so i suspect I'm being used to pass the buck.

Good lucky party people, may your path swerve wankers like this.

** If your his friend please don't flame me, I've been as mature as I can about this. I'm not in the habit of letting wankers use my headspace.



There are so many trusted vendors listed on the top of page, barely can believe that those store you mentioned offer any better deals, even their web page looks suspicious and you should have bachelor degree to understand where the hell is list of species they offer 😃

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 1
    #29480173 -

Thanks tree frog that photo helps. I was at that moisture but slowly went slightly dryer in some of my jars by accident.

I also put one of my jars back in one of Fahtster's bags and adjusted the holes a little to see if I can maintain conditions easier.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 2
    #29480199 -

returning back to conversation about dark spot on agar, this one are clean, everyone sample of this specie gives same color which changes depending on the age, later it will turn to white. Similar situation with Bisporus and Cinctulus, all three are giving very specific looking mycelium on agar

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 4
    #29480783 -

tultedspoon said:
Thanks tree frog that photo helps. I was at that moisture but slowly went slightly dryer in some of my jars by accident.

I also put one of my jars back in one of Fahtster's bags and adjusted the holes a little to see if I can maintain conditions easier.



Learn to successfully grow cubes first,  all of us start with cubes and base all of our understanding on their basic life cycle which we adapt to suite species.

You're trying to adapt your lack of understanding which is not going to work.

No one cares if you consume the cubes but you sure as he'll should learn to grow them first.

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