Fahts Easy pan cloning

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fahtster
Now With 33%More Faht

Registered: 06/17/06
Posts: 10,900

Fahts Easy pan cloning

37
#29263448 - 06/28/25 01:46 PM (1 year, 3 months ago)

Yoyoyo party peeps. So cloning pans can be daunting if you’re trying to get a tiny sample of inner tissue like you would larger species like cubes. Here I’ll show you how to easily get a viable clone pretty much every time.

There’s things in this post that aren’t new at all like water agar plates etc but I haven’t seen anyone “skin” their samples and it works great.

1. First is getting a large tissue sample. Because pans are so thin you can actually “skin” them. This works best when they’re ~~mature~~ younger/close to mature (after doing many clones of pans this way, it may be easier to “break” the stipe in half when they’re older, but it’s better for sterility if they aren’t overly mature—you want white inner tissue.. if it’s yellow, it’s going to be very bacterial). Take a scissors and cut like a 2-3” (or as long as you can) piece from the stipe. You can use the very top with just the cap cut off but cut any fat base part off. Ideally, you want it to be as straight as possible without any twists.. twists make later steps a bit more difficult. Don’t worry about the scissors being super sterile.. you won’t be using tissue anywhere close to the ends.

2. ⁠I like to take a piece of paper towel that’s fairly wet with peroxide and gently run the stipe through it. Here you can see the stipe is cleaner afterwards

3. ⁠Now take a scalpel and just start a split down the middle of one end. The fatter end is better. You can see the split started here

4. ⁠Now pull those splits apart so you have two halves. Take one of those halves and bend both ends together so they’re touching.. bend them backwards so the inner tissue is out/up and the two outside “skin” ends touch. What will happen is the outside skin that is “bendy” will stay intact but the dense, stick-like inner tissue will snap. You may have to help that snap along by crossing the two ends past each other.

5. Now pull down on one of those sides/ends and you’ll effectively “skin” that inner tissue and you’ll end up with a huge chunk of that tissue sticking straight up.

6. ⁠Take a sterilized forceps and break off a chunk of that tissue. It’s best to keep track of which side was facing the center of the stipe so you can put that side down on the plate.

Pan stipe “skin” isn’t very protective because of how thin it is and cracks do occur often when they’re mature (and even when not mature) so if you put this tissue to higher nute agar, you will still get bacteria along with myc coming off the tissue. That’s why you want to use water agar ~~or very low nute agar.~~

This inner tissue, while more than likely still bacterial, will rarely have mold spores on it. I say rarely because I’m sure it’s possible but I haven’t run into it yet.

Bacteria is easily delt with more so than mold.. so this is why I use the inner “skinned” tissue rather than just placing a whole piece of stipe on agar.

For those that don’t know: Water agar is super easy. You just make agar without nutes. So just add your agar agar powder to dh2o and sterilize. There is still a very minute amount of nutrition in agar agar powder so some initial bacteria can/does happen but because you use such a larger piece of tissue, the myc quickly overcomes any bacteria growth and it’s stunted near the tissue sample

So let the myc grow out a decent amount before taking any transfers.

Here you can see on this WA plate that there’s still some bacteria near the sample but stops quickly as the myc that grew through the agar came up through the surface as it grew out and hindered the bacteria from moving further.

~~You can also use very weak nute agar. This is a plate that I used .7 of a gram for 300ml of dh2o. The “L” stands for low nute.~~ Edit: I don’t even bother with cloning straight to low nute anymore. I just use WA because it works so well

I’ll take any transfers from ~~either style plate~~ the water angar plate and immediately put it to a low nute cabin sequester. This greatly reduces the amount of transfers you need to take. If there is a small amount of bacteria in the transfer, 99.9999% of the time, one transfer put through a cabin will get you a clean culture.

I run everything through a cabin whether or not I think it’s clean… ms, clones, everything (all species) before I take it to grain. That’s how much I like the method. It has helped my final grows immensely and saves a hellava lot of time and plates.

Speaking of which, you’ll notice I put multiple clones to a single plate. No reason to waste a single plate on one clone.

Hope this has helped some of ya!

EDIT 10/12/25: so it’s been a few months and thought I’d add some pics of the clones I’ve gotten with this method fruited out. It works incredibly well. Basically, if I clone to WA, I’m getting that clone. Since I switched to cloning only to WA, I haven’t lost a single one. I actually started by cloning 12 of each variety (bvi and peace river) thinking I was going to lose a good amount of them and I ended up with 22 clones total and was like, oh shit, I have to fruit these lol. So now I only take 6 and probably will drop that down to 3 eventually.

Edited by fahtster (01/26/26 12:32 AM)

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