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Shop: North Spore Cultivation Supplies   Myyco.com Golden Teacher Liquid Culture For Sale, Isolated Cubensis Liquid Culture For Sale

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5.14d [Re: zero]
    #2350266 -

that route is rated 5.8.
it wasn't the best idea to climb that.
I have shoes now and can climb better.
peace,
zero

:shocked:


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sk8 or die

Edited by zero (02/18/04 01:21 PM)

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5.14d [Re: zero]
    #2350380 -

loki,are you a trad climber?
how does it feel knowing that the only thing keepin you from falling is you're gear placments?


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sk8 or die

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5.14d [Re: zero]
    #2350457 -

I do a bit of trad, but preffer bolted or half and half climbs.
were I mainly climb, Englands south coast, there are a lot of short
one or two pitch climbs, that have abseil placements pre rigged, and a few scattered bolts around cruxes. I love gear placement, and I'm the leader of our small group mainly. I much preffer placing and trusting my own nut placement or friend angle, than following and removing others placements :grin:
Its one of those things thats scary at first, but once you get some
experiance with it, you feel quite secure.

Of course you still have to use the odd micro nut, those times
are always scary :grin:


Quote:
Loki, is the dog your belay slave? 




well, he does have his own harness :tongue:

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5.14d [Re: Loki]
    #2350506 -

I was envying your nuts and cams too...I'm hoping to start climbing trad around next autumn, or as soon as I can afford the gear. I'm thinking of starting with routes that can be climbed with a 1? nut set, and buy the cams/friends later.


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"All substances are poisons; there is none which is not a poison. The right dose differentiates a poison and a remedy." -Paracelsius

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: Papaver]
    #2350542 -

> I never got past the mid-5.10s, but my old climbing partner is redpointing mid-5.12s now.

That is about where I was for lead climbing. I could top rope 5.12s (sometimes). I miss climbing a lot. Everything here is full of break and cactus...


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Just another spore in the wind.

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5.14d [Re: ummikko]
    #2350592 -

Yeah, that pretty much how i started collecting.
I had just one nut set for quite a while, the
key is to form a climbing party, and make sure you never
double buy gear untill between you you have what you need.
I highly recommend the shunt by petzel too, I use it untold.
Great safty devise

Nuts and slings are your main stay, cams and friends are
what you aim for with a perfect rack :-)

I only have 4 cams, but WANT MORE lol.

not cheap though are they  :oogle:

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: Loki]
    #2350736 -

We went climbing for a week in Yosemite once, and that place had serious bolt ethics -- at least it did ten years ago -- people would get in fist-fights over retro-bolting. So, many of the face climbs, that couldn't be protected naturally, consisted of 60 foot runouts on old rusty 1/4" bolts that were placed by Warren Harding and his friends back in the '50s and '60s. Most of the bolts were spinners, and not something you'd want to take a long fall like that on. It was some scary-ass shit! :shocked:

On the other hand, I can see the arguments by the "high-ethics" crowd, because we had some ridiculous shit done in our community by stupid kids with portable power-drills -- putting up routes that never should have been put up, just so they could claim a first ascent, or even worse, retro-bolting a beautiful route, that already had well-thought-out, solid, 3/8" placements, because they felt unsafe because they were leading well above their level...

The whole sport got out of control, and seemed to go downhill, in the early '90s, with the explosion of the climbing gyms and the greed climbing equipment industry. Everyone who had spent a little time in a gym, started coming out to the cliffs with their dayglo spandex lycra, their quick-clips, and their boom-boxes, and made made the whole thing into a circus -- that's about when I stopped climbing...

That's just me being old and cynical, though. It's still a great sport! :laugh:


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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5.14d [Re: Loki]
    #2350786 -

We have a loose group of people that climb together...problem is, someone is always unavailable, and if he happens to be the one with the crucial piece of gear things won't work. Hence, we've all pretty much gotten our gear independently from everyone else, which is kind of stupid I guess.

I have to ask you, since you have experience in climbing with cams:
Are camalots really worth their extra cost, compared to the much cheaper friends? I've heard everyone speak in favor of cams because of the double-axle desing -does it really make such a difference?

BTW, isn't the shunt kinda costly too? :smile:


--------------------
"All substances are poisons; there is none which is not a poison. The right dose differentiates a poison and a remedy." -Paracelsius

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5.14d [Re: boO]
    #2350799 -

No problem :smile: Depending on the weather, the first routes there will be climbable in april. May is definately climbing time though, hope your're still around then.


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"All substances are poisons; there is none which is not a poison. The right dose differentiates a poison and a remedy." -Paracelsius

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: Papaver]
    #2350859 -

Papaver said:
We went climbing for a week in Yosemite once, and that place had serious bolt ethics -- at least it did ten years ago -- people would get in fist-fights over retro-bolting. So, many of the face climbs, that couldn't be protected naturally, consisted of 60 foot runouts on old rusty 1/4" bolts that were placed by Warren Harding and his friends back in the '50s and '60s. Most of the bolts were spinners, and not something you'd want to take a long fall like that on. It was some scary-ass shit! :shocked:


60 feet is 20 meters, right...:shocked::shocked::shocked: Now that's one long runout.


--------------------
"All substances are poisons; there is none which is not a poison. The right dose differentiates a poison and a remedy." -Paracelsius

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5.14d [Re: ummikko]
    #2350926 -

I have a few quad cams, all with flexable stems, these do me
fine. I think there all pretty good, but I would have to say, the more expensive the better.
I'm out of pic upload, but i'll show some closer pics tommorrow.
most of my stuff is HB, DMM or PETZL, though I've seen some good looking u.s stuff online.




Yeah pap, bolts are a touchy subject here too, and for good reason.
Luckily I mainly climb the south coast, which has been quarried for rock loads over the years, so i have no qualms using, or placing bolts on quarried cliff face.

Now the lake district is another matter altogether, beautifull
crags of natural weathered rock, this would be unthinkerbal to bolt :grin:

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: Papaver]
    #2350977 -

Quote:
Everyone who had spent a little time in a gym, started coming out to the cliffs with their dayglo spandex lycra, their quick-clips, and their boom-boxes, and made made the whole thing into a circus



Lots of this still goes on :frown:

I just stick to my group (none of which would
survive turning up in lycra  :devil:) and try to avoid
the busyier spots.

my main pet hate is having to help kids in trainers get
out of trouble after watching cliff hnger, or spiderman,
and going at it with no backp. I dont much mind the spandex croud, there pretty quite :smile: over here.

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: Papaver]
    #2351075 -

Quote:

Quote:

Everyone who had spent a little time in a gym, started coming out to the cliffs with their dayglo spandex lycra, their quick-clips, and their boom-boxes, and made made the whole thing into a circus



Lots of this still goes on



I wasn't aware there was such a difference between climbing cultures.
*makes note never to buy any lycra* :wink:
Are there any other signs that will betray you as a n00b asshole?

Quote:
I'm out of pic upload, but i'll show some closer pics tommorrow


Great! :thumbup:


--------------------
"All substances are poisons; there is none which is not a poison. The right dose differentiates a poison and a remedy." -Paracelsius

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: ummikko]
    #2351076 -

though it really doesn't have anything to do with the climbing gear you're talking about...everything is 2x expensive here. i have no doubt in my mind that it would be cheaper to get the equipment in the US or UK. if you're interested in getting some equipment i can check out prices when i go to the US in huhtikuu and purchase it for you to bring back here. but yeah, i'll be here in toukokuu :smile:

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: ummikko]
    #2351130 -

There are many sub cultures in the climbing fraternaty :grin:

You'll find which group you fit as you get into it, no tips or
hints lol :tongue:

I myself preffer not to be too into any form of climbing,
I really cannot understand people who only do boulders,
even when surrounded by high level climbs, and with enougth
friends to tackle them, they play with boulders :roleyes:

But once in the pub after a hard climb, all climbers are the same.
And get along just fine.

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: boO]
    #2351142 -

Yep, I bet your right. The us of a would be your best bet, stuff is quite overpriced hear, I got a lot of mine in france, were its a lot cheaper than here.(uk)

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: boO]
    #2351144 -

Awesome! :smile: I'd greatly appreciate it, if it really isn't too much trouble for you. I'll have to contact you before you go. I may be needing a set of nuts around then...They cost 100+ ? here, and I think you can get them for 60-80 dollars in the states.

(This is what I'm talking about, though I'm not yet sure which manufacturer's nuts I intend to buy):



--------------------
"All substances are poisons; there is none which is not a poison. The right dose differentiates a poison and a remedy." -Paracelsius

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: Loki]
    #2351163 -

Loki said:
There are many sub cultures in the climbing fraternaty :grin:

You'll find which group you fit as you get into it, no tips or
hints lol :tongue:



So it's learn the hard way, huh...:lol:
Quote:
I myself preffer not to be too into any form of climbing,
I really cannot understand people who only do boulders,
even when surrounded by high level climbs, and with enougth
friends to tackle them, they play with boulders :roleyes:

But once in the pub after a hard climb, all climbers are the same.
And get along just fine.


Same here I guess...





..except for those fucking ice climbers whom everybody hates -damn those bastards! j/k :wink:


--------------------
"All substances are poisons; there is none which is not a poison. The right dose differentiates a poison and a remedy." -Paracelsius

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: ummikko]
    #2351169 -

I recommend dmm
http://www.bendcrete.com/climbing/equipment/nuts.html

1 or 2 large hexentric's, size 8 and 10 are very handy, and give you more safty than the smaller ones. So there good to have when starting, as they give you more confidence in placement.

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Re: Rock climbers click here! Tony lamiche sends "the fly" 5 [Re: Loki]
    #2351226 -

Loki said:
There are many sub cultures in the climbing fraternaty :grin:


Yeah, it's pretty much like anything, I guess. My info is over 10 years old, so I'm not really up on the current scene, but the "local ethics" of any climbing area is always important to know and respect... :cool:


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Shop: North Spore Cultivation Supplies   Myyco.com Golden Teacher Liquid Culture For Sale, Isolated Cubensis Liquid Culture For Sale

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