LSoares said:

kactus.brand.g said:

Is there anything I can do to save this plant???

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Sorry to hear about that. Try the usual, dry it thoroughly, plant in bone dry substrate, wait for roots to develop, etc.
If the rusty patches progress, chop off everything affected and do it till the core looks clean. Even if you end up with just the crown, it will grow new roots eventually - I have a very healthy and vigorous L. diffusa that once rotted in consequence of a fall and all that was left was maybe 2/3 of the button...
By the way, I am leaning more towards fungal infection than to any type of "burn". Pictures may help settle this.

Good luck.

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Orange sounds to fungi as well.. I've seen orange in fert burns and as orange rot. So it depends what kind of it is. imo. Good point.

I had also diffusa got rotten last autumn. It recovered it self but left an ugly spot. It look like "crested" but there's just one side rotten to almost mid-section.

kactus.brand.g said:

Thanks guys and yes,I recently watered it after the re-pot,and I think it didn't dry out fast enough.
I was quick to blame the perlite,and I still believe all the circular spots,are from where those pieces of perlite burned it,because of the moist soil.
I'm probably wrong,and it's some kind of mold or rot.
I tried taking pics,but my batteries are too low,and the macro shots are blurrier than I used to see when I was an alcoholic
I'll let it continue to dry,then I'll plant it in a bone dry soil mix,and not water it for a long time.
I'm so proud of this plant,and I really hope I don't loose it,but the main big spot looks a bit worse this morning
If all else fails,I have a big old phat Trich base to graft it too
I'll keep you guys posted,and thanks for the responses ,you guys are the greatest

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Bumbaclotjohnson said:

kactus.brand.g said:

Thanks guys and yes,I recently watered it after the re-pot,and I think it didn't dry out fast enough.
I was quick to blame the perlite,and I still believe all the circular spots,are from where those pieces of perlite burned it,because of the moist soil.
I'm probably wrong,and it's some kind of mold or rot.
I tried taking pics,but my batteries are too low,and the macro shots are blurrier than I used to see when I was an alcoholic
I'll let it continue to dry,then I'll plant it in a bone dry soil mix,and not water it for a long time.
I'm so proud of this plant,and I really hope I don't loose it,but the main big spot looks a bit worse this morning
If all else fails,I have a big old phat Trich base to graft it too
I'll keep you guys posted,and thanks for the responses ,you guys are the greatest

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Cannabis to a cactus? Did I read that right?

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If you mean what I think you meant,well then,yes sir

LSoares said:

That's rust, a fungal infection. A copper sulphate solution (probably more like a suspension, but I don't feel like looking into it) should help, look around for indications. Maybe dipping the root in it and setting it apart to dry.

A lot of my plants get ugly marks like that during winter, especially late winter. They're rarely fatal, but some will not clear and leave the plant scarred.

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LSoares said:

No way to tell, man. You have a number of options, as long as it's indeed rust:

a) treat with copper sulphate;
b) excise affected parts and dust with sulphur or cinammon;
c) wait and see, then go back to a) if needed.

Copper sulphate is the jack-of-all-trades of anti-fungal remedies, it's the stuff that leaves a bluish residue on leaves after treating for mildew, for instance. It shouldn't be too hard to find, since it's not one of those terribly poisonous insecticides. I would suggest finding some, making the solution, dipping the root in it for a few minutes, setting aside to dry and repotting in bone dry compost, then wait for a couple of weeks before watering. It all depends on how much trouble you're willing to get into (although this is actually a lot less than it seems...)

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Ok,if I can make it to the garden department today,I'll look for some.
I know I have some cinnamon for sure though
Thanks a lot for all your help

I copied this from another site. I make no claims as to the effectiveness of these.

Quote:

"Rust diseases affect a plethora of fruit, nut and ornamental trees and shrubs. Rust is often a problem with roses, but can also attack carnations, sunflowers and other flowering plants. Rust may cause leaf spots or turn the entire leaf yellow or brown. Rust also causes premature leaf drop, curling and withering of foliage. Cankers, galls and stunted growth can also be a result of rust disease. Fungicides may be used during the plant's dormant period, when no foliage is present, or in early spring, to help prevent rust diseases from developing. Pre-formulated fungicides are readily available commercially, but you can also purchase the basic ingredients and make fungicide sprays at home.

Aspirin Mixture

The simplest homemade fungicide is simply mixing two aspirin per quart of plain water. For example, a gallon of spray requires eight aspirin tablets. Use uncoated, 325mg aspirin tablets. Thoroughly mix the dissolved aspirin and water, then pour the mixture into hand-held spray bottles or a pump sprayer. This mixture may be used in early spring. Thoroughly spray the foliage, including the undersides of the leaves. Make sure no rain is forecast for a day or two, or the fungicide will wash off the plant.

Baking Soda Mixtures

Baking soda makes a good fungicide base, but can cause salts to build up to toxic levels on the plants. Monitor treated plants for signs of excess salts and irrigate thoroughly to help wash excess salts away. The University of Florida IFAS website recommends adding 1 ounce of horticultural oil and 4 teaspoons of ordinary baking soda to a gallon of water to make an effective homemade fungicide. Mix well and pour into a sprayer. Treat plants weekly in early spring to help prevent rust from invading the garden or to control the spread of rust and other diseases already present. Another recipe, which includes oil to help spread the fungicide and keep it from accumulating so quickly in the soil, calls for mixing 1 tablespoon each of baking soda, light-colored vegetable (cooking) oil and mild dishwashing detergent in 1 gallon of water.

Bordeaux Mixture

According to the University of California at Davis Integrated Pest Management website, Bordeaux mixture effectively controls both fungi and bacteria that invade the garden. Bordeaux mixture contains copper sulfate mixed with lime and water, which is then sprayed on the plants to control rust and other maladies. Copper sulfate and hydrated lime are readily available at nurseries and garden centers. Bordeaux is best used as a dormant spray on trees in winter, due to its ability to injure the leaves after the trees break dormancy. To make 1 gallon of Bordeaux, mix 3 1/3 tablespoons of copper sulfate and 10 tablespoons of hydrated lime in 1 gallon of water. Shake well to blend the mixture thoroughly, and pour into a spray bottle or pump sprayer. Saturate the plants and also spray the soil around the plants.

Sulfur Mixtures

Used for centuries as a fungicide against rust and other diseases, sulfur is readily available and easily mixed at home for use in the garden. Sulfur must be applied before rust develops, so use it as a preventive in early spring, before the temperature reaches and stays above 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Some plants, such as cucurbits and some berries are sensitive to sulfur. Sulfur is available in liquid, wettable powder or as a dust, and mixing directions are different for each type. Check the label for mixing and application directions, and to make sure the product is appropriate for your plants. Lime-sulfur compounds smell like rotten eggs and should not be used on foliage. Mix this fungicide up to use as a dormant spray.

Considerations

Bordeaux mixture can leave a bluish discoloration on plants and nearby surfaces, so spray on windless days. Unlike many other fungicides, Bordeaux mixture generally does not wash off in the rain. Always test homemade fungicides on a small portion of the plant to be sure the mixture will not injure the plant. Spray a couple of leaves and wait at least 24 hours, then check for adverse reactions."

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Bumbaclotjohnson said:

What's it looking like today?

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Alberto looks sick still