Try not to over water and try dont to let them dry out..
From Wormsway
Seed Starting 101
Starting your plants from seeds means you don’t have to settle for the same old petunias everyone else is buying this year. Rather than growing whatever your local nurseries or variety stores have on hand, you can choose rare or heirloom vegetable and flower varieties to set your garden apart from the rest. Moreover, for what it costs to buy a few flats of bedding plants you can grow many, many more plants from seed. You can also be sure that your seedlings have had the healthiest start possible, and growers interested in organics can produce bedding plants without the use of chemical pesticides or fertilizers if they choose.
Before You Plant
Starting seeds with little or no regard to frost dates is one of the most common mistakes beginning gardeners make. It’s easy to get excited and even a little impatient, but it’s very important to sow your seeds with the first and last frost dates in mind. Not sure about frost dates for your area? Call your local extension office for help.
Most seed packets offer “days to maturity” guidelines which can be used to estimate the appropriate starting date depending on the crop. Timed properly, seedlings started indoors will be raring to go once it’s time to set them outside.
Tools for the Job
Besides seeds, of course, you’ll need growing media, containers, and water to get started. Additional equipment such as propagation heat mats or plastic covers may also be useful. In addition, plastic or wood stakes are helpful for distinguishing between different types seedlings.
Seeds need air, warmth, and moisture to germinate. Because seeds come with their own food supply, you don’t need to offer them rich soil or fertilizer right away. In fact, well-draining, sterile media such as compressed, shredded coconut fiber, seedling mix with perlite, or specialized starter plugs work well.
As for growing containers, durable plastic cells and flats will do, but remember to sanitize containers and other growing equipment between uses. Cleaning containers with a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water can help arrest the growth of certain fungi that can cause disease in your plants.
Most seeds started indoors germinate at a temperature of 70 to 75 degrees F. Preferred temperatures ultimately depend on the type of plant started so you’ll want to check seed packages for more specific information. By placing a heated propagation mat underneath your soil less medium, you can speed up the germination process. Plastic covers can also be used to trap heat and moisture within your growing medium, but be careful. Covered seedlings can get too much moisture so you’ll want to uncover them periodically or place a few small holes in the cover so that excess moisture can escape.
Get Growing!
You’ll want to dampen your growing medium fairly well first and then thinly sow your seeds on the surface. Not only are they more susceptible to disease, seeds planted too close to one another must compete for available light and space. Cover very lightly with growing medium and keep moist by gently misting or spraying. Different plant varieties germinate at different rates; some plants will germinate in just a few days while others may take a few weeks.
Once your seedlings are up, you’ll want to remove any propagation mats you may have used and add plenty of light. If your seedlings don’t get enough light, they’ll start to look leggier than the Rockettes. For best results, expose them to eight to ten hours of light daily and remember to turn the lights off at night to replicate their natural cycle as if they were growing outdoors. An oscillating fan near your seedlings will replicate a natural breeze which helps the seedlings’ stems grow strong.
Seeds contain enough energy to start growing until they gettheir “true leaves.” True leaves are the second set of leaves that grow from the plant’s stem. Once a seedling has its true leaves, it needs additional energy or fertilizer. A low strength fertilizer that contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium will encourage proper growth. Nitrogen aids in the growth of dark green leaves, phosphorus will promote rooting and plant maturity, and potassium is essential for disease resistance and overall improved health of the plant.
During this growth period, keep growing media moist—but not waterlogged—and fertilize as needed. After the first true leaves emerge, plants can be carefully transplanted to a larger container of soil or set outdoors if the chance of frost is over. You’ll want to gradually acclimate your plants to outdoor temperatures before finally planting them in the garden.
Is It Time Yet?
Seedlings which have been properly hardened off can then be set outdoors. To “harden off” seedlings means to get them acclimated to the outdoor elements. To do this, place seedlings outside for a few hours a day gradually increasing their exposure for one to two weeks before transplanting to the garden.
What follows is a general timetable for starting seedlings.Once the chance for last frost has past, annuals and vegetablesmay be planted outside.
Sunflowers
Zinnias
Lavender
Oregano
Lettuce
Tomatoes
Thyme
Cosmos
Hollyhock
Marigolds
Basil
Cucumbers
Dill
Nasturtium
Peppers
Cantaloupes 4 weeks before last frost
4-6 weeks before last frost
4-6 weeks before last frost
4-6 weeks before last frost
4 weeks before last frost
6 weeks before last frost
4-6 weeks before last frost
4 weeks before last frost
4-6 weeks before last frost
4-6 weeks before last frost
4-6 weeks before last frost
2-4 weeks before last frost
4-6 weeks before last frost
2-4 weeks before last frost
4-6 weeks before last frost
Direct sow in garden after frost date
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