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Offlinebassplayer74
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Registered: 11/24/01
Posts: 906
Loc: Tennessee
Last seen: 6 years, 7 months
Hydrated lime instead of limestone
    #540470 - 02/04/02 06:51 PM (15 years, 3 months ago)

Ok, I'm gonna use hydrated lime in my 50/50 casing mix. I know some people say to use limestone instead. All I have however is hydrated lime because thats what the tek calls for. I also know that the tek calls for too much lime. Can someone give me a straight answer on a safe amount of lime to use? I'm gonna do some finch seed casings with 50/50+ and some with coco coir to compare. Thanks


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Invisibleangryshroom
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Registered: 12/18/01
Posts: 7,262
Re: Hydrated lime instead of limestone [Re: bassplayer74]
    #540477 - 02/04/02 07:00 PM (15 years, 3 months ago)

Make sure your hydrated lime contains the correct chemical compound. The hydrated lime at the store were I bought it was completely different from what they say to use here.

The 50/50 + mix would probably need more lime added due to peat being a lot more acidic. As I have heard, (and read on the package), coco is close to neutral, with a possible acidic pH. Therefor I think you really dont need that much lime in the coco.


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Offlinebassplayer74
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Registered: 11/24/01
Posts: 906
Loc: Tennessee
Last seen: 6 years, 7 months
Re: Hydrated lime instead of limestone [Re: angryshroom]
    #540484 - 02/04/02 07:11 PM (15 years, 3 months ago)

I got the right stuff. I want to do a couple small casings tonight. I have verm, peat and hydrated lime. No coir yet. I'll be getting some this week. I just need to know an exact amount to mix with my verm/peat. The recipe on this site calls for too much. Ive heard several complaints about it. Can someone please let me know how much to use?


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Anonymous

Re: Hydrated lime instead of limestone [Re: bassplayer74]
    #540492 - 02/04/02 07:17 PM (15 years, 3 months ago)

The best way too use hydrated lime is too mix it with water and use this water to add moisture too your peat based casings. Hydrated lime is quick release. It will simply go into the soil solution anyways.

That is why all GOOD casing soil mixes have both fine particle(hydrated Lime) and coarse particle (limestone/ oyster shell). To have just the latter, will do very little in the short term. To have just hydrated lime will do very little in the long term.

If you are just gonna use Hydrated lime, use it in the water to wet the casing soil prior to sterilization. Then also use it in the water you mist with. Just make your water neutral or close too it. 6.5-7.5 Ph , and use this for your casing moisture and replenishment. The fungus is only using the water that is in the soil solution, if you can keep that near neutral, all your mushie needs are being satisfied.

If you are trying to supress contaminants in a peat based casing, hydrated lime is not the best as a single source ingredient. Better too use it in combination with something coarser, like limestone. The combination will be beneficial to the fungus you want to grow, and mildly suppressive of the contaminant molds you don't want to grow.


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Offlinebassplayer74
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Registered: 11/24/01
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Loc: Tennessee
Last seen: 6 years, 7 months
Re: Hydrated lime instead of limestone [Re: ]
    #540498 - 02/04/02 07:22 PM (15 years, 3 months ago)

THANK YOU! That's the kind of answer I needed. Makes perfect sense. Thank you for all your replies! Have a great evening...bassplayer74


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Invisiblepuscle
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Registered: 01/07/01
Posts: 4,539
Loc: NY
Re: Hydrated lime instead of limestone [Re: bassplayer74]
    #540500 - 02/04/02 07:25 PM (15 years, 3 months ago)

One tablespoon per gallon of 50/50.


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