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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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Agricultural vs Horticultural vs hydrated lime
    #5939352 -

I know hydrated won't level out until 12.5 or so, and I also know that horticultural lime levels out around 7.8, but what about agricultural lime?

The only information about this I could find was a comment made by Blue Helix about using it as a short term buffer, like hydrated lime, so based off of that information, I used about 8% agricultural limestone to my 50/50+ mix to try and be on the safe side, but if agricultural limestone levels off at the same level as hydrated lime, I might be fucked. I want to know if it can be used as a long term buffer, or if it is similar to hydrated limestone, and I'm screwed.

Can anyone shed light on this issue?

or.

If there is already a section on here about this, can someone provide me the link?


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Anything posted here, is total bullshit.
My Meyers-Briggs Personality: INTJ
New growers, or anyone else just needing help; I'm always glad to help right here. :grin:


We give cultivation advice here. :super:


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Re: Agricultural vs Horticultural vs hydrated lime [Re: faceyneck]
    #5939614 -

Scroll down through a few pages of posts, or do a search for 'hydrated lime' with my username. It's what you want to use. I've posted repeatedly to correct the misinformation being passed around, and given exact amounts to use.
RR


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Re: Agricultural vs Horticultural vs hydrated lime [Re: RogerRabbit]
    #5939705 -

I looked over your posts for the past few months, and you seem to need to post this stuff a lot more than you should have to (this topic should be added to the FAQ section under "casings"). Here's what I've learned from reading through your previous posts:

Making the PH more alkaline prevents bacteria from taking over the casing layer, but doesn't increase flush size.

Hydrated lime adjusts the PH immediately which is useful in mycology because it will provide for a higher PH at the casing's most vulnerable time.

Magnesium has negative effects on fruiting (which I'm curious as to why, but I'll look over the growing section to try and find the answer before I post... which I think a LOT of new growers need to start doing.)

Gypsum can be added as a long term buffer up to 10%.

Oyster shell won't adjust the PH at all, unless it is oyster shell flour, in which case it can be used as a long term buffer.

I wasn't able to find in your posts whether or not I should use agricultural lime as though it were hydrated lime, horticultural lime, gypsum, or if I should throw the whole bag out and get another source of lime.

I also learned that I should not use lime from dolomite, and I don't know if agricultural lime is from dolomite or not.

SO: should I just throw the bag out? Does agricultural lime have a high Mg percentage? Is it a short or a long term buffer?

Thank you very much for your help RR, and I'm sorry that you have to post every 10 minutes or so about this topic.


--------------------
Anything posted here, is total bullshit.
My Meyers-Briggs Personality: INTJ
New growers, or anyone else just needing help; I'm always glad to help right here. :grin:


We give cultivation advice here. :super:


AMU Q & A - We're glad to help
My Doggy Door Greenhouse!          First Ever Shmuvbox Tek!          Do Manure Right!

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Re: Agricultural vs Horticultural vs hydrated lime [Re: faceyneck]
    #5939795 -



I don't grasp how you could get to the fully colonized bulk substrate stage, and would not carefully test the Ph of a casing mix, well before it's application over the substrate.

Simply because, if a casing covers texture, content, and moisture saturation level is optimal.

And, the Ph is radically out of optimal range, either up, or down.

One will not allow the casing to colonize, the other allows the usual contaminates to gain a foothold.

Did you make the mix while completely under the influence of large amounts of really good controlled substances, or what?

If you have any of the casing mix left over? I would at the very least quickly get/use litmus strips to test it.

If you don't have any left over? I would carefully remove enough of the mix from the substrate surface, to perform a test.

After a Ph test, and it's known.
If needed, possible remedies are available.
While unknown, everyone is in the dark.


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Re: Agricultural vs Horticultural vs hydrated lime [Re: Tippinthru]
    #5940542 -

"Did you make the mix while completely under the influence of large amounts of really good controlled substances, or what?"

No. I don't do drugs, not even mushrooms. I just like growing them, but I've only grown cakes before. I am not using bulk substrate; I cased six cakes. I figured that if it didn't work, I'm really not that far behind. Besides, I have six jars of rye incubating now, and ten more cakes. Its not that big of a deal if these casings don't fruit, however, I don't think there is a problem with the PH.

Testing the PH at this time I don't think would be necessary, because:

I put the casings into my incubator, waited three days at optimal temperatures, and when I finally checked on them, all of the cakes had myc breaking through in six or seven spots, and these casings are only 6" squares. I'm under the impression that means the mycelium was healthy, and not killed by too high of a PH.

I patched the cakes, put them into the fruiting chamber about a week ago, and now I'm having problems because I went camping and they were mostly neglected while I was gone. When I came back, a nearby cake was contaminated, there were spores everywhere, the casing layer was dried out completely, and there were no new spots of mycelium breaking through the casing layer. Also, sine I was not able to turn on my AC, I imagine there were times when the temp got up way too high, perhaps even at thermal death.

Since too high of PH would be accomplished by using hydrated lime or something very similar, the ph would have gone way too high within the three day incubation period, and the mycelium would have died before it had a chance to break through the surface. Then the ph would mellow out. Since the myc did in fact break through the casing layer initially, that tells me that the ph was not too high, and I don't see how it would have become too high days later when hydrated lime brings the ph up so high initially and then dies down days later.

So, if agricultural limestone is some sort of weird exception that delays an initial spike in ph, but has a huge one later on, it wouldn't help me at all to test the ph before casing, unless I let the casing sit for 4 or five days and then case. I figured someone on here has already gone through enough trouble with it, and can tell me what they've learned (which I'm very grateful for; I love this community.)

I've done my reading, and I know that if I use the right type of lime in the right percentage, there isn't a huge range at which the ph will be, making it unnecessary to check the ph unless I'm doing some sort of research project, or am just curious. As it stands now, from what I've read here, I can deduct that my issues with the mycelium are caused by neglect, or from a huge spike in ph that I wouldn't have known about until days later if I kept testing the PH everyday while the casings were in the fruiting chamber.


--------------------
Anything posted here, is total bullshit.
My Meyers-Briggs Personality: INTJ
New growers, or anyone else just needing help; I'm always glad to help right here. :grin:


We give cultivation advice here. :super:


AMU Q & A - We're glad to help
My Doggy Door Greenhouse!          First Ever Shmuvbox Tek!          Do Manure Right!

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Re: Agricultural vs Horticultural vs hydrated lime [Re: faceyneck] * 1
    #7018987 -

faceyneck said:
If there is already a section on here about this, can someone provide me the link?


http://www.shroomery.org/5220/What-is-the-difference-between-limestone-lime-and-quick-lime


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Grow Mushrooms from Spores - PF-Tek for Simple Minds

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