RockinRobot said:

I'm not using liquid fert as yet. I am, However, getting ready to start some new TTBVI tubs and I am going to do a couple with unpasteruized black cow in a side by side with pasteruized black cow that I usually use. I have a bag of black cow that has been outside for a year after being opened and zero trich in it.

FAFO time pouring arar as soon as it hits 118F, it's at 138 as I write this.

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AZ Starman2112 said:

RockinRobot said:

I'm not using liquid fert as yet. I am, However, getting ready to start some new TTBVI tubs and I am going to do a couple with unpasteruized black cow in a side by side with pasteruized black cow that I usually use. I have a bag of black cow that has been outside for a year after being opened and zero trich in it.

FAFO time pouring arar as soon as it hits 118F, it's at 138 as I write this.

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FYI…I recently poured at 127° F and although it reduced condensation which was my goal, it started to get ever so slightly lumpy. Although it all set up nicely.  You might want to try 130° F. 118° F might be a little too cool. Just my latest observation.

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You must pour very slow. I do 10 plates in about 20 seconds. no time for it to clump and easier on my fingers at 118F

RockinRobot said:

AZ Starman2112 said:

RockinRobot said:

I'm not using liquid fert as yet. I am, However, getting ready to start some new TTBVI tubs and I am going to do a couple with unpasteruized black cow in a side by side with pasteruized black cow that I usually use. I have a bag of black cow that has been outside for a year after being opened and zero trich in it.

FAFO time pouring arar as soon as it hits 118F, it's at 138 as I write this.

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FYI…I recently poured at 127° F and although it reduced condensation which was my goal, it started to get ever so slightly lumpy. Although it all set up nicely.  You might want to try 130° F. 118° F might be a little too cool. Just my latest observation.

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You must pour very slow. I do 10 plates in about 20 seconds. no time for it to clump and easier on my fingers at 118F

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RockinRobot said:

FAFO time pouring arar as soon as it hits 118F, it's at 138 as I write this.

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Bigbbb said:

Seen a few people post doing with adv nutrient grow big. It's a hydroponic company

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bongoman said:

Ah thanks! That sounds like a lead worth following.

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It doesn't matter as long as the fertilizers are balanced and complete. I used a two part synthetic fertilizer and it worked fine, a pita to wheigh out when you don't need much though

Kloakk said:

It doesn't matter as long as the fertilizers are balanced and complete. I used a two part synthetic fertilizer and it worked fine, a pita to wheigh out when you don't need much though

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bongoman said:

Thanks kloakk.

I read earlier that Tree Frog mentioned that soluble nitrogen fertilisers were more liable to contaminate than insoluble? Or does that only matter if you are only bucket tekking and not doing a full pasteurisation of substrate?

Either way, how does one determine whether a given fertiliser has soluble or insoluble nitrogen source?

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That might be, I don't know, it makes sense since soluble nutrients are available instantly, while unsoluble would need something(like mycelium) to break it down before it's available.

I have only used soluble plant fertilizer and I did a proper pasteurization, I steam pasteurize and it worked good for me. That said, I have only used it on 4 grows. If you're set on doing bucket tek and a fertilizer no one has used I would think you just have to try for yourself, this is a pretty new tek, keep us posted

bongoman said:

Kloakk said:

It doesn't matter as long as the fertilizers are balanced and complete. I used a two part synthetic fertilizer and it worked fine, a pita to wheigh out when you don't need much though

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Thanks kloakk.

I read earlier that Tree Frog mentioned that soluble nitrogen fertilisers were more liable to contaminate than insoluble? Or does that only matter if you are only bucket tekking and not doing a full pasteurisation of substrate?

Either way, how does one determine whether a given fertiliser has soluble or insoluble nitrogen source?

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Kunta Kente said:

You need to consider that stuff like manure or dead tree material that mushrooms grow on is essentially partially digested. So they have some amounts of water soluble things (like nitrogen) and other's that are insoluble, and even things like carbon bound up in tannin and lignin and stuff (for trees).

So the True Organic mojave listed includes its water soluble nitrogen and water insoluble nitrogen levels, which is important. You want higher insoluble than soluble. Soluble means it's sitting there ready to rock, which means way more likely to get contaminated by ANYTHING. Besides, shrooms like WIN because they disperse slowly.

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Kloakk said:

Kunta Kente said:

You need to consider that stuff like manure or dead tree material that mushrooms grow on is essentially partially digested. So they have some amounts of water soluble things (like nitrogen) and other's that are insoluble, and even things like carbon bound up in tannin and lignin and stuff (for trees).

So the True Organic mojave listed includes its water soluble nitrogen and water insoluble nitrogen levels, which is important. You want higher insoluble than soluble. Soluble means it's sitting there ready to rock, which means way more likely to get contaminated by ANYTHING. Besides, shrooms like WIN because they disperse slowly.

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"It doesn't matter", was referring to what kind of brand or form(synthetic or organic) you use, mushrooms will have what they need to fruit as long as it's a balanced and full fertilizer.

I used synthetic fertilizer, nothing never got contaminated, again, I only did 4 grows with plant fertilizer. I don't believe anyone has done any real comparison between brand and/or synthetic vs organic, so I don't think we know if one or the other actually increase chance of contamination, yet.

I also know Mojave does bucket tek for CV+, I don't.

What I wrote was that if nutrients are available from the second it's cooled it makes sense that it is easier for competing organisms to take hold, but that is just a guess as I really don't know, but in no way does it contridict with what you are saying so what are we even doing here?

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Was I offensive somehow? I quoted someone else and was just discussing what they were saying. I didn't say you were incorrect at all, and I agree with your post entirely...
no doubt if substrate has any reasonable amount of nutrients, once it's cooled it's far game for all organisms.

Anyways, I wholeheartedly agree synthetic / organic doesn't really matter as long as the ratios and nutrients are correct. Whatever exact T2 plate someone has is gonna fruit slightly differently on one vs the other but that's a different can of worms and likely just doesn't matter.

The question of comparing contam rates of synthetic vs manure is also what i was touching on earlier (page 8) when I was asking about what volume liquid fert are people using specifically along with what technique.


Truly hats off and thank you to Mojave for doing so much experimenting to get us this far and the rest of the thread as well.

Kunta Kente said:

Was I offensive somehow? I quoted someone else and was just discussing what they were saying. I didn't say you were incorrect at all, and I agree with your post entirely...
no doubt if substrate has any reasonable amount of nutrients, once it's cooled it's far game for all organisms.

Anyways, I wholeheartedly agree synthetic / organic doesn't really matter as long as the ratios and nutrients are correct. Whatever exact T2 plate someone has is gonna fruit slightly differently on one vs the other but that's a different can of worms and likely just doesn't matter.

The question of comparing contam rates of synthetic vs manure is also what i was touching on earlier (page 8) when I was asking about what volume liquid fert are people using specifically along with what technique.


Truly hats off and thank you to Mojave for doing so much experimenting to get us this far and the rest of the thread as well.

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Oh my bad, I thought you quoted me and then gave your answer.



And no you where not offensive, my neurospicy just wanted to make sure nobody misunderstood what I wrote
Thanks for clearing it up, appreciate it