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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 6
    #29441378 -

To play devils advocate, I use 50/50 and don’t really have issues with too few pins or edge pinning


I’ve used mostly peat before and it did work well but I found it dried out way faster than with verm.  With the 50/50, I water the casings once (usually) per flush.  So I think it really just comes down to preference.  Both have pros and cons.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster] * 1
    #29441438 -

Yeah it's definitely nothing conclusive, in the sense that I know other folks use it fine and get great results.

And because I am top dressing grains I think that I tend to case thicker than I would otherwise.  I imagine that has something to do with it too because the verm cakes more when it's thick.  Not leaving nice peaks and valleys.  So if I was putting a thin casing on something top dressed it would behave differently.

I also bought fine verm and medium might do better in regard to caking.  I have course in my garage and that seemed to chunky.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (12/28/25 09:52 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 9
    #29441470 -

Lookin great, folks.  Fahtster, that Weza second flush is very, very nice!  Here is a grow from a little while back.  Zifozonke’s beach pan is one that I never get tired of looking at or growing:

 

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster]
    #29441523 -

fahtster said:
First and second flush (respectively) of liquid amber in a 4oz jar.. this jar was grown in my jcm


Some citrus ridge.. this was grown with just the sandwich bag top with holes poked in it. 


Obv it needs tweaking.  It needs more air but that’s tough to do without drying the tiny sub out.  My fix plan is to wrap h2o2 wetted paper towel around the jar inside the bag to help keep the rh up so I can add more holes or slits to the bag for when the cycle fan comes on.  The h2o2 should help keep the paper towel clean and evaporate into harmless water and o2.

We’ll see if it works.



Thanks for the tips fahtster.

I am currently attempting to top fruit some jars in a similar fashion, but I'm waiting until I see a lot of pins forming first.

Where should I be looking for pins? through the top dry verm layer or in the bottom of the jar? How many pins do you like to see before opening the jar up and putting a bag on top?

Do we need to water the jars at all if I plan to top fruit? Like is there a "dunk" and then pour off the water? Or is there enough water in the jars and we only mist some during fruiting?

Should I be leaving the dry verm layer on top if the mycelium has already decided to form some nice clumps through the layer? Or am I supposed to remove this?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29441528 -

Is there a Panaeolus strain that needs to breed twice before regular fruits show up? I thought I read something along these lines, I read something interesting the other day regarding microscopic fruits forming and dropping spores, and I'm wondering if there is a species that has mycelium recombining first, then microscopic fruits, and then regular fruits.

Or maybe I'm using too many spores for Panaeolus? I thought more spores in a jar was debunked and is ok, but maybe for Panaeolus they are more sensitive and you really want as few spores as possible so that they successfully combine and spread throughout the majority of the jar? Or is this also not accurate? I read some things that went both ways recently.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29441536 -

That’s a lot to unpack.  Lol. These aren’t pf jars.  They’re min hpoo substrates with grain spawn.  About a 1/4 cup grain to a 1/3 cup hpoo/cv.  I mix them up in sandwich baggies and then use the baggie as a liner.  I cover them with plastic wrap I rubber band on and poke a couple syringe holes in. 

After 100% colonized, I case very thinly.. it takes like a literal pinch of casing lol.  Soak that down and put the bag on.  I keep the bag low at first and then move it up as the fruits need room.  The bag has syringe holes poked through the bag every .75”.  I poke more holes when the fruits show up

If your substrate is 100% colonized, case it and put the bag on.  You only wait for pins if it’s cubes.  Pans are different.  Idk of double sporelating pans.. that sounds like a different species.  Pan cyans all grow the same and there’s no micro fruits involved.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29441540 -

Where did you read these things, or think you read these things, or read things that went both ways recently? Idle curiosity :shrug:


--------------------
Learn it, know it, live it


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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: fahtster]
    #29441541 -

Ok thanks I'll do some more reading.

I couldn't see a liner between the jar and the substrate/spawn in the jars, buut you trimmed it down I'm guessing?

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: Mackload]
    #29441542 -

Mackload said:
Where did you read these things, or think you read these things, or read things that went both ways recently? Idle curiosity :shrug:



Looking for it give me a minute.

What part the number of spores?

This short thread here has some quotes from RR that leans on less spores being better, something about faster white colonization can sometimes not all be the dikaryotic fruiting mycelium needed to see fruits.

https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/8831623#8831623

But then there were other people in another thread that went against this and said they had more success with darker syringes.

People say Panaeolus can be fast, but maybe some of that fast mycelium isn't fruitable, so maybe really tiny amounts of spores used during innoculations would be better for PF teks? Maybe with agar this isn't an issue since you probably have dikaryotic mycelium by the time you get the plates you want to work with. But maybe for multispore PF tek people not using agar really tiny amounts of spores from a print should be used?

I'm asking I'm not saying, just going off what other people have said and was wondering if there was any new consensus for Panaeolus pf teks to try and get easier success.

Currently I'm just going to let these jars over-colonize, because I have whispy strands going through the jars but there's also big mycelial massess the size of marshmallows forming and maybe I'm supposed to let these grow as big as they can, and maybe my cakes aren't really done until these things take over the whole jar? I'm asking I don't know I'm asking.

Edited by tultedspoon (12/29/25 01:55 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon]
    #29441548 -

Yes it’s trimmed.  It’s clear and grown over so pretty hard to see

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tultedspoon] * 3
    #29441714 -

tultedspoon said:
Is there a Panaeolus strain that needs to breed twice before regular fruits show up? I thought I read something along these lines, I read something interesting the other day regarding microscopic fruits forming and dropping spores, and I'm wondering if there is a species that has mycelium recombining first, then microscopic fruits, and then regular fruits.



I think you are mixing up a few key processes.

Most spores germinate with a single nuclei (a monokaryon).  They need to find another monokaryon that has a compatible mating type in order to reproduce.  When they do they clamp and form a dikaryon (single cell with two nuclei). And generally this mated strain doesn't genetically recombine until it makes spores in the fruit body.

However, mycelium also has what is called a parasexual cycle.  Take the dikaryon above, and rarely (like 1/1000 times) when it meets another dikaryon, it will donate a nuclei.

But a cell can't have three nuclei, so what happens is one of the nuclei recombines.  And you now have a dikaryon with half the DNA of one spore, and a quarter of the DNA from two other spores.

And even though I said rarely, keep in mind that a multi-spore syringe can have a lot of spores in it. Which means there's a lot of opportunities for parasexual crosses to happen.

RR was under the Western assumption that a good isolate (which is two nuclei that never undergo a parasexual cycle) can be superior to any heavy MS inoculation that has undergone parasexual breeding.  But also admitted that finding such a isolate can take a lot of work. Meaning you might test 10 or 20 of them before you find that great one.

On the other hand, mycologists in Asia prefer heavy MS strains.  Believing that myceliym that has undergone many parasexual cycles is better suited for cultivation.

Personally, I don't worry about it too much. I take multiple transfers off of a germination plate to a single plate. And the one that runs the fastest I use. If I noticed any fruit bodies forming especially from parasexual crosses, I clone them off the plate and run those too.

The only time I worry about avoiding breeding on a plate, is if I'm trying to isolate a monokaryon to cross varieties from different locations.

Edit:  You can see on the top right of this plate where a parasexual cross happened between these two dikaryons.  That culture on the right is also knotting on the plate, so I will use this one.


Edited by tree frog (12/29/25 11:21 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 3
    #29441721 -

And here's an example of two cultures I won't use because of bacteria. The one on the leff is likely clean but I'll run it through a cabin to be safe.



--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (12/29/25 11:22 AM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29441857 -

tree frog said:
Edit:  You can see on the top right of this plate where a parasexual cross happened between these two dikaryons.  That culture on the right is also knotting on the plate, so I will use this one.





Nice! To clarify, let's call the three original cultures 12 (o clock), 3 and 9. The knotting one is number 3 correct? Is there any difference between 12 and 3 anymore, or could we call it one culture after the parasexual cross? or is the cross another culture (about 1:30 on the dish)?

Edited by shroboo (12/29/25 02:47 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: shroboo] * 1
    #29441876 -

Yeah the cross is 1:30.

The knots are around 5 o'clock and are probably a response to the pheromones of the other cultures (there's competition, we should fruit).

So, to my eye this plate has at least four cultures on it. But only three came from the germ plate.

And each of these may have gone through multiple parasexual crosses before I transferred them from germination.

Also, to clarify. When I say cross here I'm talking about crossing strains of mycelium. Not varieties from distinct locations.

These are all from the same print and germination plate.  I wasn't trying to cross varieties, just observing for cleanliness and aggression.

Edit:  so this technique of putting three cultures on a plate is something a lot of folks do to save room, but the pheromone response triggering knots is something I learned from Julian.

So not only does it save room, it also lets you put something on the plate to change the behavior of the mycelium in a way that is beneficial for selection.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (12/29/25 03:22 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 2
    #29441886 -

Okay once more lol



The green is where the parasexual cycle happened.  The red is the new strain.

Over here around 10:30 we can see the top and left strain avoiding each other. It does look like there might be some overlap but I bet if I scoped this the space between these hyphal tips is a lot larger than it looks here in the photo.



And this is around 5:30.  We can see the right culture is knotting as a stress response to the presence of the other colonies.



I will scope this here in a minute too.

But I ended up taking the left and the right culture to aio jars.  In this case I wasn't interested in the parasexual cross. Just because I have a lot of other irons in the fire and these two other cultures were both fast so.


Edit, looks like I actually took a big wedge that included the cross and the one that was knotting.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (12/29/25 03:39 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29441902 -

Wow, that's amazing. Awesome education treefrog, looking forward to my next agar work ♥️.

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: shroboo] * 1
    #29441907 -

I'm glad it's helpful!

And for reference, I do six transfers from each germ plate.  So like I showed you all that one that had two bacterial colonies on it.  But I had two clean colonies on the other plate, so I'm just going to run those two.

These plates I'm just running out quickly because I'm trying to domesticate a line.  But if I was hunting for a culture for long-term storage then I would be more careful about how I mark the plates, and save each culture on water agar while it runs.  The reason for water agar because I've seen a lot of cultures run out of gas before reaching the edge.  So I think it's probably better for revival/storage than a standard plate.

I also accidentally cabin sequestered a cutlure onto water agar recently and it did fine.  So I'll probably just do this in cabins going forward.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

Edited by tree frog (12/29/25 04:08 PM)

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog] * 1
    #29441969 -

interesting stuff here!
i am planning to sterilise a few half pint wide mouth pancakes tomorrow.
my recipe would be 1 cup brf 1 cup verm 1 cup worm humus 1 cup water and 2ml organic grow fert.
topped with verm layer.
sounds reasonable? enough nitrogen? shall i let ph fall where it may or raise it?
tx in advance


--------------------
the observer is the observed
            j. krishnamurti


>The Hitchhiker‘s Guide to the Shroomery<

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: chris77] * 1
    #29441994 -

The extra fertilizer probably isn't necessary with brown rice flour and that much worm castings.

I don't know if it's going to be detrimental, I personally would leave it out or make two batches and see which does better.


--------------------
And if I only could
I'd make a deal with God
And I'd get him to swap our places
I'd be running up that road
Be running up that hill
With no problems

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Re: Official Copelandia/Panaeolus Thread [Re: tree frog]
    #29442007 -

tx for the quick reply
might go for two batches
:havesomescience:


--------------------
the observer is the observed
            j. krishnamurti


>The Hitchhiker‘s Guide to the Shroomery<

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Shop: Mushroom-Hut Liquid Cultures   Myyco.com Isolated Cubensis Liquid Culture For Sale   North Spore Bulk Substrate   Original Sensible Seeds Bulk Cannabis Seeds   Sporeworks.EU Spores for European Microscopy   MagicBag.co All-In-One Bags That Don't Suck   Unfolding Nature Unfolding Nature: Being in the Implicate Order


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