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Amazon Shop: ½ Pint Jars, Calcium Carbonate, Peat, pH Test Strips, Pressure Cooker, Vermiculite

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Registered: 04/24/04
Posts: 327
Loc: washington
light green mold frickin peat moss
    #2808000 - 06/19/04 02:59 AM (14 years, 3 days ago)

I have a pressure cooker that goes up to 15 psi. I have NEVER had a problem with the "green monster". However when I use this peat moss i got from lowes it has been infecting EVERY FUCKING THING IT TOUCHES!

I've pressure cooked it for 1/2 hour, 1 hour, 1 1/2 hours and even 2 hours. I've pressure cooked it twice. To let spores germinate then cook them again .... all with the same results. Casing turns a faint, light green, and instead of trying to save my work i frickin throw it out.

Other than straight verm, is there any other casing layers I can use that will not harber the enemy? Believe me, I know its the peat moss, it ONLY happens when the casing is introduced. jars are fine, pure white, but the minute i put that frickin layer on. It is wet to field capacity.... H E L P !!!

P.S. yea i know stop using it, duh, no shit, options man, GIVE me options!!!

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Registered: 10/15/99
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Re: light green mold frickin peat moss [Re: thatbig]
    #2808536 - 06/19/04 12:10 PM (14 years, 3 days ago)

You are most likely killing any mold in the peat with that treatment. It may be a very low pH peat, so that even though it's applied 'clean' the mold takes to it well. If pH is properly adjusted and it is pasteurized/sterilized, you should have a significant window before molds take over. In situations like this, just adding some large granules of carbonate won't fix the problem. . .it's better to hydrate the peat in a fairly basic solution and test the pH before applying it. Regardless, this is a good idea, at least for the first couple of times you use a new source of biological material [peat]. There are kits for this in home stores.
If this is too much of a pain, just using a different source of peat could fix the problem. As could eliminating peat altogether.
Good luck

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Registered: 03/13/04
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Re: light green mold frickin peat moss [Re: thatbig]
    #2816156 - 06/22/04 05:41 AM (14 years, 20 hours ago)


A) Pasteurize the mix, not sterilize. You want to keep the FRIENDLY microorganisms around. They are your first defense against contamination, and will protect the casing whilst the mycelium is working its way into place...

B) Raise the PH. Trichoderma simply can't survive at alkaline levels. I suggest mixing some Calcium Carbonate (limestone flour) into your casing prior to pasteurization. A couple of tablespoons is usually more than enough, depending on your casing size. Read and follow the 50/50 Plus tek.

C) Thoroughly clean the chamber/area/whatever you are fruiting in, around, etc. By the time the mold has turned green it is sporulating...filling your chamber and room with plently of mold spores. 10/90 bleach/water is your friend.

The first (farily large) casing layer I created was more or less a disaster. I sterilized Jiffy-mix and thought nothing of it. White patches showed up in a couple of days and (thinking it was mycelium) I added light and oxygen. A day later I had a 20" x 16" green mold nightmare.

Since cleaning the room, mixing the 50/50 myself, pasteurizing, ph buffering, and excercising a little more common sense I have yet to see a single contam over a long period and a multitude of casings.

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Amazon Shop: ½ Pint Jars, Calcium Carbonate, Peat, pH Test Strips, Pressure Cooker, Vermiculite

Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics >> Contamination Forum

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