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masonry question....
    #9521210 -

my house has a sandstone foundation, and in parts of it the mortar has deteriorated and the wind blows through.. i was looking to skim coat it to about 2" thick using some chicken wire fastened to the wall for support, but i wasn't sure if i would need some sort of primer concrete to get the skim coat to stick to the existing concrete.  Ive asked the sales people at the hardware stores around the area, but of course they don't hire anyone that knows anything.. i was wondering if anyone here has any masonry experience that could help shed some light.

thanks,

will


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:scaryshroom: :shitstorm: :mattz: :bongload: :gethigh: :scaryshroom:

I am not lost.. i am going there looking for it.. and when i get there and find it, i will know what it is..

"The way to stop violence is not to go out and let your head be beaten in but to say, you want to take my life risk yours!"

"are you sure u want to eat all them shrooms??"  "yes i want to hear what my mind has to say..."

remember opions are like assholes, everyone has one and they all stink.

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Re: masonry question.... [Re: willmafingerdo]
    #9521233 -

I'm assumint by sand stone you mean stucco, you can get
commercial mixes to use, color matching is difficult on small
areas so dont bother, break loose anything that's delaminated,
it should already have an expanded metal lathe backing it and
you shouldnt need to do anything more than apply the new suff,
there are primers available if it's rubbed grout and not stucco

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Re: masonry question.... [Re: Prisoner#1]
    #9522347 -

i think were thinking of two different things.. i mean they are actually big sand stones, in our area the old houses they didnt use brick for the basement they used what we call sand stone, but i dont think they are actually "sand stone" just rock block chuncks we just call them sandstone basements. heres some pics of the wall im wanting to fix...





--------------------
:scaryshroom: :shitstorm: :mattz: :bongload: :gethigh: :scaryshroom:

I am not lost.. i am going there looking for it.. and when i get there and find it, i will know what it is..

"The way to stop violence is not to go out and let your head be beaten in but to say, you want to take my life risk yours!"

"are you sure u want to eat all them shrooms??"  "yes i want to hear what my mind has to say..."

remember opions are like assholes, everyone has one and they all stink.

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Re: masonry question.... [Re: willmafingerdo]
    #9522446 -

I used that spray-foam sealant when it first came to the shelves it wasn't 'minimally expanding' and went entirely thru the cracks in a two foot foundation wall.


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Let it not be remembered
That mycelium eats detritus and dies
But that life in all it's glory
Counts mycelium to be on it's side.

Edited by Booby (12/31/08 07:08 AM)

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Re: masonry question.... [Re: willmafingerdo]
    #9522484 -

This is not the kind of post I assumed it was when I read the title. :lol:


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Enlil said:
You really are the worst kind of person.


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Re: masonry question.... [Re: Sophistic Radiance]
    #9522534 -

scour the area and clean it really well is all you can really do...

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Re: masonry question.... [Re: willmafingerdo]
    #9522592 -

All you need to do is point the stones.  Rake out the deteriorated mortar to a reasonable depth, say about 3/4ths of an inch or to solid material and then get a pointing tool and a hawk or flat trowel and stuff new mortar in.  If instead of going to the hardware store you go to a masonry supply place they will show you how to do it.  Basically you hold the mortar on the hawk/trowel just below the joint and slide-push it into the crack.  Vertical cracks are a little harder but nothing about this project requires any skill.

If you want to actually cover the whole surface with stucco I would recommend hiring someone.  You will need to fasten wire lath (I recommend galvanized) on the entire surface and then apply 2 or 3 coats of mortar, the first coat being "scratched" to roughen it preparatory to the second coat.  This is a lot more work, requires mixing a lot of mortar and, most difficult of all, some level of skill to achieve a presentable and durable appearance.  You will also still have to rake and point the joints as well as removing any loose stone material, sandstone being prone to crumble.  Go with the pointing tool until you get enough money for the stucco job


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Re: masonry question.... [Re: zappaisgod]
    #9522598 -

Do not use chicken wire.  It will not last and the spaces are too big.  To fasten the wire lath you will need a powder actuated nail gun and pins with washers.  Shot level will be determined by the hardness of the stone.  Start light for sandstone.


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Re: masonry question.... [Re: willmafingerdo]
    #9522633 -

sweet lord that doesn't look stable.

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Re: masonry question.... [Re: AliceDee]
    #9522638 -

I have poured many foundations, monuments, and masonry work. Any time I have used mortar I have found that it doesn't stick well to the old mortar and has no structural integrity at all. You should chip out any area about half an inch or so in. This helps a little bit. Water down all the surfaces you plan to stick this too. If you have a drill, you can drill holes and tap metal dowels into he existing foundation.

I am not really understanding what the purpose is for. Just blocking the air flow? If you foundation is splitting and deteriorating, you may want to have someone come out and look at it because your house will sink.

If it is just the air flow, then you can use some plywood, a  couple 2x4s, and a few stakes. Dig the area below where you are going to pour the mortar or concrete. Place the plywood up to towards the foundation about two inches away after cutting it to size. Put two stakes on each end of the board, and more if you need the support in the center of the form. Use the 2x4s accordingly to put braces on the board to hold the form at the 2" distance. Don't put any pressure on the form yet. Push sand or dirt up to the bottom as a final brace. Pack the dirt. Pour the concrete or mortar into the form. Tap the board with a hammer(softly)to get all the air bubbles out of the pour. If the mud has pushed the form out, use the 2x4 braces you setup to plum the pour. You can check to see if the form is straight by using a tight string line on each of the ends of the plywood. Just hammer a nail in each end flush with the outside of the form. Tie the sting to it. Top it off. Let this cure for a day or so depending on how cold it is outside.

The brace should look something like the 2x4s on the lower left.



On the ends you can't see them, but put a stake behind them. If you need to let the form in or out, tap the end you see in the picture up or down.

With a pour this small, I don't see any blow outs happening, but its more of a hassle to do it twice. These supplies might be expensive, but this is how I would do it. You can get particle board and some really cheap rough cut wood to use instead of the 2x4s.


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</end thread>

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Re: masonry question.... [Re: thebrain]
    #9525035 -

kewl thanks for the info guys.. this is not for any structual integrity, just to seal up our basement to try to make it a lil warmer in the house, and in the basement.  will see how it goes saturday :smile:


--------------------
:scaryshroom: :shitstorm: :mattz: :bongload: :gethigh: :scaryshroom:

I am not lost.. i am going there looking for it.. and when i get there and find it, i will know what it is..

"The way to stop violence is not to go out and let your head be beaten in but to say, you want to take my life risk yours!"

"are you sure u want to eat all them shrooms??"  "yes i want to hear what my mind has to say..."

remember opions are like assholes, everyone has one and they all stink.

Extras: Filter Print Post Top
Re: masonry question.... [Re: willmafingerdo]
    #9525053 -

willmafingerdo said:





knock out any loose cement, and make a grout from portland cement
and sand, get a grout bag and pump the crevices full, if the areas
are accessible with a pressure washer, make use of it, give it a
few days to dry before pumping in the grout

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