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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms
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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: anthiawe]
    #26186344 -

anthiawe said:
are soy hull pellets better than wheat bran for sterilization ?


and can this thread be considered resurrected now?


Hey anthiawe, I dont know if I understand your question correctly, but the point of using soy beans hulls is that the yields are much higher. You sterilize your substrate the same way as if you had bran in the mix, there is no change in that part of the process. The popular "to go" recipe for soy bean hulls is 50% sawdust + 50% soy bean hulls, hydratated to 60% I beilieve. This is called the masters mix, you can search around for that name and you will find more information.

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: vsoares]
    #26186357 -

Assuming this thread is officially resurrected, I would like to ask to those who have experience growing oysters (specially pink) in great quantities, how do you manage the spore load in the grow room? I notice that when i grow pinks, there are some spots in the grow room, usually around the fans or the exhaust ports, where there is not just accumulation of spores, but they tend to form a pool of pinky stuff that smells really bad after a couple of days (smells like shit, to be honest). The stuff is not very easy to clean and gets your hands stinky as well. I believe that happens because of bacteria growing on top of the spores. How do you manage that? Hey Solarity, if you could give some insight, that would be very helpful.

Edited by vsoares (09/13/19 04:41 PM)

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: vsoares]
    #26737330 -

Don't know if this is the right place for it, but you get any luck with those pink oysters fruiting? Having some similar issues.

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: Galangal]
    #26737579 -

Harvest before they drop the spores would be my advice.

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: Galangal]
    #26739544 -

Galangal said:
Don't know if this is the right place for it, but you get any luck with those pink oysters fruiting? Having some similar issues.


Did you cold-shock like the OP?

A cold shock can kill pink oysters.


--------------------
Repugnant is a creature who would squander the ability to lift an eye to heaven, conscious of his fleeting time here.
-------------------

Have some medicinal mushrooms and want to get the most out of them?  Try this double extraction method.

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: vsoares]
    #26776372 -

Curious as to where you guys are getting your soy hull pellets?  I live in a Midwestern agricultural state where we grow TONS of soy...you'd think a quick google search for "soy hull pellets near me" would give me something, but sadly no - I get results from NZ, and some online retailers.  Was hoping to try to just grab some locally but for $9-15 for 40lbs of soy hull pellets (not sure about shipping) I'm considering just ordering some online.

Would I find these at feed stores, do you think?


--------------------
..

My Marijuana Grow Tent Setup and Grow Log

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: Cthulhu23]
    #26776390 -

They are used as feed so yea that is the only place you will find them is a feed store. I get mine from southern states check them if you have a store near you. I pay $5 for 50 lbs just so you know around what you should be paying.

https://www.southernstates.com/farm-store/store-locations/10805

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: solarity]
    #27707120 -

Hi solarity!

I've been cultivating gourmet mushrooms at home for about 9 months now. I'm having some trouble getting them to fruit consistently. I've got several sawdust bags colonized with pink oysters. I have a martha fruiting chamber set to about 90-94% humidity with a separate fan for fresh air exchanges going for 5 minutes every 4 hours. There's an LED light on the ceiling (correct light temp for mushrooms) going for about 12 hours per day. I made a horizontal slice in the bag and put them into the fruiting chamber. I'm seeing some small pins out of those slits but they're stalling and not fruiting after more than a week. They had been colonizing the bags for a month and looked fully ready, but I'm not sure. Not sure what the problem is. Temperature in the room is about 67F. I'd love to get my fruiting process down and learn when the sawdust bags are ready, what to do before placing them into the fruiting chamber, how to treat them while they're in there. Any advice?

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: pjongeward]
    #27707251 -

Solarity unfortunately hasn't been around in a while, but pics would make it easier to help you!


--------------------
Repugnant is a creature who would squander the ability to lift an eye to heaven, conscious of his fleeting time here.
-------------------

Have some medicinal mushrooms and want to get the most out of them?  Try this double extraction method.

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: Forrester]
    #27707668 -

Your bags should be fully colonized in 2 weeks or less so I am sure they were ready to fruit. Pink oysters are a warm-weather mushroom but at 68F they should do ok. The one problem I see is fresh air exchanges going for 5 minutes every 4 hours. You should have 6 complete air exchanges per hour. Evaporation and fresh air are the main pinning triggers. I wouldn't keep my room so humid without more fae. Without fresh air coming in you will have no evaporation. That's the best I can do without more info. I hate pink oysters so I never grow them. You will be disappointed in the weight of your flushes. I will give pink oysters this they are nice to look at.

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: SHROOMSISAY01]
    #27707956 -

Thanks so much! I will increase my FAE and see if that makes a difference. Here are some photos. You can see I have a simple martha tent, with a vent at the top and another vent with a fan (hooked up to an automatic timer) on the lower left side. I included a few photos of pink oyster bags. They colonized in the bags for a month and now have been in the fruiting chamber for about 10 days. Not much action. Finally, you can see my shelves with other bags in various states of colonization.


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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: pjongeward]
    #27708944 -

1st humidity rises so the tube with the humidity coming in should be on the bottom of the tent. 2nd I do not see any exhaust on your tent you have to exhaust your tent otherwise your co2 levels will be really high and you are going to have a hard time fruiting. I am not really sure what you have going on there but without an exhaust you are probably not getting much air into your tent, to begin with, air can not go in without a way for air to go out. Just take a bottle and try to blow into it you will feel the air hitting you in the face. If you cut a hole in the bottle on the other side from you blowing you will not feel the air hitting your face anymore because it will be able to escape out the other side where you cut the hole. Most people use a passive system to do exhaust and intake with one fan. To do a passive system you just exhaust with a fan to outside. Yes, you need to exhaust outside because you don't want to breathe in the spores it can get you very sick and kids are highly susceptible to spores. Anyway, you want your exhaust to be in a lower corner. You want it low because the spores will be more likely to go out of the exhaust because they fall to the ground. In the opposite corner, you want a hole in the tent so when the exhaust kicks on air will be pulled in through the hole thus creating exhaust and intake with one fan...


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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: SHROOMSISAY01]
    #27712577 -

This is great info, thank you so much. The photo I attached unfortunately doesn't show my vents. I do have a 4" vent on the top, left (opposite the humidity intake). I stuffed that with pillow stuffing just to filter the air a little. Then I also have a 4" vent port in the lower left, which has a motorized fan that's set on a timer to run for 10 minutes every hour. It sucks air out of the tent and blows it out into the room. I don't yet have a duct leading out a window, and maybe that's my next problem to solve. So would your advice be to move the humidity intake to the bottom, and also have the outflow duct leading out the bottom on the opposite side? I live in a cold climate (Minneapolis) and therefore can't have my window open all year round. And this setup is in the basement, so not ideal. I'm just trying to fruit enough mushrooms for my family to eat, so perhaps I'll just move to shotgun fruiting chambers for now until I can get this automated chamber solved. I was having much better luck last fall and early winter but for some reason now it's really not going well.

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: SHROOMSISAY01]
    #27712585 -

Hi All,
Just trying to capture some of the Pink Oyster Fundamentals.  Is this accurate?

Top Fruit
Colonize 22-24C (71-75F) for 14 Days in dark
Fruit 14-22C (57-71F) 5-10 Days

Preferred Substrate
Hardwood
Hardwood / Soy Bean Hulls (50/50/60Hydration)

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Re: fruiting Pink oyster [Re: fordzilla]
    #27712816 -

I wouldn't worry about the location of your ports as long as you have them in opposite corners. As far as running the ducting make sure you use a smooth pipe the flexible pipe with wire holding it together will reduce your airflow a lot. I use 4" PVC it was the cheapest option at the time. Glue some foam insulation to a piece of plywood cut a hole in it for your pipe and silicone the plywood in your window.

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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms
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