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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17190 -

That's typical of SC's EQ. The ones I've seen in the past start rhizomorph at around 50-70%, then the longer you leave 'em in, the more rhizos you get. The rhizos come on top of your fuzzy patches.

peace.

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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17191 -

thats just mycellium.
it will take off and grow fast. this is what has happened in a few of my jars before, and the mycellium will suddenly take off with growth.

Ic?KLe


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17192 -

IcYKLe, thanks for your response, I know this is mycelium and I understand its growth characteristics. My question was just one out of curiosity, Whether this is typical Eq mycelium, fluffy like this or if others have had more rhizomorphic type.

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-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17194 -

Chester,
Is that verm mixed in with the seed? If so, are you making a cake? IF yes, then there is a much better way of growing, you have a p cooker and a large one if that. You need to get rid of those filter disc and use a poly fill plug. Then use 3 cups seed, and 1 1/2 cups water. You only need to cook it for 1 hour at 15psi. Once cool you can inoculate it with 1 cc. Then shake the jar. IT should colonize in under 2 weeks.
ITs a bulk growing tek, maybe your doing it and i just wasted my time for nothing. Oh yeah, on the equadors, use a then casing. 1/4th inch.
Mycelium


--------------------
Mad skills, you know this!!!

I am here to Myth Bust

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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17195 -

Hi there Mycelium5150, Yes that is verm, I add it for extra moisture while the mycelium is colonizing the jars.

What I do is basically a bulk tek in a way. I prefer to p.cook for a longer time because doing so, I have never had a jar contaminate so I figure, if it ain't broke, dont fix it.

What you see is first mycelial growth, I will let it go for about 3 days, and then shake jars, grow another 3 days, shake again, then again 3 more days, shake and allow to fully colonize. In short, once you see growth, shake at 3,6,and 9 days.

Here is a pic of qts at the (l-r) 9,6,3,day point.

After fully colonized, I will shake day before I want to spawn other jars or case. If casing, I will place about 1" of moist verm in bottom of container, about 2-3" of substrate, and then about 1/2" of 50/50+ type casing. I place in terrarium, mist daily until I see mycelial growth and they are on their own. I like 1/2 gal jars better than 1/2 pts, one 1/2 gal yeilds same as 7+ 1/2 pt. More efficient, and since I use both a flow hood and HEPA glove box, contams are extremely rare. They usually begin after 2nd or 3rd flush.

I know what you mean when you say I can use just 1cc per jar and shake, but I prefer to inject down the sides and leave it be untill I see growth. That way if by some chance I received a contaminated syringe, it will be visible right away, and if no contams are seen, THEN I will shake to speed colonization.

On the poly fill plug, I buy filter discs bulk and I just like to use them. I know they are 99.97% efficeint to 3 microns and have had no problems to date.

It's getting late, hope I am making sense :uploads/jars1.jpg

After fully colonized, I will shake day before I want to spawn other jars or case. If casing, I will place about 1" of moist verm in bottom of container, about 2-3" of substrate, and then about 1/2" of 50/50+ type casing. I place in terrarium, mist daily until I see mycelial growth and they are on their own. I like 1/2 gal jars better than 1/2 pts, one 1/2 gal yeilds same as 7+ 1/2 pt. More efficient, and since I use both a flow hood and HEPA glove box, contams are extremely rare. They usually begin after 2nd or 3rd flush.

I know what you mean when you say I can use just 1cc per jar and shake, but I prefer to inject down the sides and leave it be untill I see growth. That way if by some chance I received a contaminated syringe, it will be visible right away, and if no contams are seen, THEN I will shake to speed colonization.

On the poly fill plug, I buy filter discs bulk and I just like to use them. I know they are 99.97% efficeint to 3 microns and have had no problems to date.

It's getting late, hope I am making sense

After fully colonized, I will shake day before I want to spawn other jars or case. If casing, I will place about 1" of moist verm in bottom of container, about 2-3" of substrate, and then about 1/2" of 50/50+ type casing. I place in terrarium, mist daily until I see mycelial growth and they are on their own. I like 1/2 gal jars better than 1/2 pts, one 1/2 gal yeilds same as 7+ 1/2 pt. More efficient, and since I use both a flow hood and HEPA glove box, contams are extremely rare. They usually begin after 2nd or 3rd flush.

I know what you mean when you say I can use just 1cc per jar and shake, but I prefer to inject down the sides and leave it be untill I see growth. That way if by some chance I received a contaminated syringe, it will be visible right away, and if no contams are seen, THEN I will shake to speed colonization.

On the poly fill plug, I buy filter discs bulk and I just like to use them. I know they are 99.97% efficeint to 3 microns and have had no problems to date.

It's getting late, hope I am making sense

Peace.

------------------
-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17196 -

Hey Chester I got a question for you. What do you do with the colonized substrate after you grow it out in those 1/2 gallon jars?? Im sure it doesnt slide out easily from those jars to case right? Do you have to slide a knife in there and break it up?? If so do you sterilize the knife first? and do you do all of that under your flow hood?? Curious!

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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17197 -

Cool,
its good to see someone uppin the annie. Do me a favor, try one batch for one hour, its plenty of time. Do it for me, im sure you will thank me. I will try to add a lil verm in my next batch.
Mycelium


--------------------
Mad skills, you know this!!!

I am here to Myth Bust

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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17198 -

AnubisRonin, what I do is place a pillow on the counter and slam (carefully :biggrin: ) the jar, the jar has a 2000ml capacity, but I only fill it to 1500-1700ml, this breaks the spawn into chunks small enough (marble size to golf ball size) to pour out, you can break up even more but I find that they recover faster if I leave them at this size. Allow to sit over night for recovery and then pour into tray, tap the tray on counter a few times to settle substrate and case with jiffy mix. Works like a charm for me. I just recently got a digital camera and will post pics of this flush barring any problems.

Peace.

------------------
-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17199 -

As for the flow hood, I only use it for agar and inoculations. In this process, I just run a house hold HEPA filter and do it in the kitchen. The mycelium can pretty much take care of itself. Contams never happen untill about the 3rd flush.

------------------
-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17200 -

i recintly started useing that tek but i am using rye grain instead, have u tride this? does it work beter or worse?

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www.insidetheweb.com/mbs.cgi/mb1061761



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httpo://blake.prohosting.com/fungal

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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17201 -

I use rye for my edibles, but have a preference to bird seed for cubies. I use the same basic method, just following Stamets measurments for rye, water, and gypsum out of TMC. Mycelium tends to "cluster" more in bird seed and when testing samples out of curiosity, it is harder to pull apart that on rye, not sure why. But rye will break apart easier making spawning jar or bag cultures easier. When I do bottle cultures, I fill with substrate and then insert an empty 25X200mm test tube into it, pressure cook as usuall and when cooled, in front of flow hood, I carefully remove test tube leaving a nice cavity for the spawn to go. This makes for more even colonization and shortens period to fruiting since the mycelium doesn't have to grow from top to bottom, it is almost equal distances in all directions. For bags you just seal and shake.

------------------
-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17202 -

Really? So you just bang the jar on a pillow and it breaks up the mycelium? I wouldnt think that would actually work because at that point the substrate is pretty tight together,,hmmmm. But I will keep that in mind, Thanx! One more question.. does your comment about the mycelium mean you dont sterilize your casing materials?

Peace!


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17203 -

Oh, it works, not my idea though, straight out of Stamets TMC, he recommends using a bald tire, but that is more trouble than I want to mess with.

And I do sterilize my casing, also in 1/2 gal jars with filter discs, that way I can store them sterile untill needed.

------------------
-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17204 -

i use my bed matris(sp?) to break it up i have used a pillow but matrises(sp?)seem to work beter

------------------
www.insidetheweb.com/mbs.cgi/mb1061761



--------------------
httpo://blake.prohosting.com/fungal

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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17205 -

Chestercopperpot, I don't have any answers for you, instead my intention is to pick your brain with some questions for you about your tek. 1.How do you fit the filter on the lid and does this allow you from not having to open the lid for airing? 2. How do you inoculate your substrate? 3. Regarding your TestTube tek, when you pull the TT out and then shake it when it is time does the hole collapse? 4. How hard and for how long do you shake your jars? 5. Finally, what type of set up do you have for the humidity of your trays?
The reason that I ask all of this is that I am wanting to do a tek like the one you are doing, but I want to talk to people who have done it and maybe get some hints and tips.

Thanks, Anglo_Chic


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17206 -

Anglo_Chic...The filter discs just "pop" into the lid past the threads and the threads hold them in place. I have noticed that the first time you pressure cook them, they shrink just a little, but will stay in place when you lift the lid for spore inoculation or to drop in agar wedge.

To inoculate my substrate really depends on the species I am growing. If it is an edible, I generally use agar wedge or grain spawn from another jar. For our "other" mushies, if I just order a syringe, I will inject 1cc in 3 places along the edge of jar or if one I have been growing for a while, I will use agar, spore water or a "spore scraping".

As far as the TestTubeTek, I use that only for edibles, mostly H. tessulatus (Shemeji), oyster-type, P. eryngi (King Oyster) and H. ulmarius (Elm Oyster). And for these, I just pull out the tube and dump in grain spawn, no shaking. The mushrooms pin and grown right out of the top of the jar. This will work with P. Cubensis, but not as easily.

With shaking the jars, just place a thin pillow on a counter top, or a stack of magazines on the countertop, and holding the jar at the ends, not the middle, "slam" about 12-15 times. You might want to wear gloves or use a towel, because if the jar breaks, you are going to need about stitches. You will see the substrate break up as you slam away, when there are no chunks too big to dump out, stop. Allow to sit over night for recovery (important step). The mycelium will have grown back together overnight but you will be able to just shake the jars in you hands this time. To case I place moist verm in bottom, 3" of substrate and then 1/2-3/4" moist casing. Place in terrarium, mist w/ water/h2o2 and leave it alone.

I will attach pics of before and after shaking to show what they look like.



And for humidity, I use about 2-3" of perlite with 1/2-3/4" of standing water/peroxide in a 4:1 water : peroxide ratio.

Hope all this is of use.

Peace.

------------------
-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17207 -

P.S. I only shook the middle 2 and left the outer 2 as a reference and 1 more day of growth until they are ready.

These jars fully colonized in 16 days, not bad considering they are 1/2 gallon :biggrin:

Sporechicks rule!!!

------------------
-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17208 -

Hey Chester I have another ques for you... Didnt you say you sterilize your casing material in a jar and then store it? Do you sterilize your casing material wet or is it dry and then you add the water after?? Curious..

Peace


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17209 -

I always sterilize my casing mix DRY. That way I can store as long as I need to. I use plastic lids with filter discs and covered with aluminum foil when I p.cook them. When you first pull the jar out, the steam for P.cooking will make the peat/verm stick to the side a little, but with the filter discs, it will dry out in a day or so. No need to worry.

When I am ready to case, I take a clean mixing bowl, wipe it with alcohol, and pour in dry peat/verm/lime, I will then add spring water and mix with a clean fork, again wiped down with alcohol. To test for moisture, just "scoop" up a clump and press against the side, if a drop or two comes out, its close enough. Use fork to cover substrate with a level layer of casing and mist with water/h2o2.

Peace.

------------------
-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Re: Eq mycelium question (pics)
    #17210 -

This is just a follow-up pic of the day after shaking, it shows just how fast mycelium will recover.

This thread is getting too long. I will start another one showing casing pics.

------------------
-ChesterCopperpott-
"Old enough to know better, Young enough to do it anyway."


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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics > Mushroom Cultivation
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