TacoHerder said:

Its just the PE strain before its balls dropped

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nice

Boris said:

I would like to add the way I do my prints, and how to extract the print when you receive it.

I use small wallet sized self adhesion laminating pouches like this:



When you get your print cut along the edges of the prints foil like this (Example):



You will then have a print with a sturdy plastic lair stuck to the backing of the foil, and a non-adhered plastic sheet over the front of the print. Then you can remove the top non-adhered plastic lair, revealing your print since there is no longer sealed edges of the pouch to keep it closed. I like this method because it protects the print better, thus an improved sterile technique, and adds a sturdy backbone to the print when working with it (A much more pleasant experience then working with a fragile piece of foil). When I say, "An improved sterile technique" I don't mean the prints are sterile, just an extra precaution in aiding the better likelihood your syringe making process will be successful. Never assume ANY print (Mine, or others) is 100% sterile, because its damn near impossible unless your some kind of vendor with a lab or something... You can get perfect success making a syringe from a print almost every time if the print was made under some level of sterile technique. This doesn't mean that if you run into a contam when using a print that it was the print makers fault. Its impossible to guarantee sterility when working in the open air at any time, and the printing proses is generously worked through the open air 50% of the process time. Most people will work any bugs out of the print with a lil agar work, or knock up some BRF cakes as a test to possibly get some fruits to print out of the original print, for it is far better to lose a cake or two, then a few quarts of grain spawn jars or whatever larger project your inoculating with these spores. Also, don't put all of your eggs in one basket with the only print you receive. One small dime sized print can provide enough spores for 10-15 syringes (Give or take). I cut the edges from the print and before I lift up the non-adhered plastic lair, I get my shot-glass full of sterile water and a sterile Q-tip rdy. I then swiftly/smoothly hing  the top plastic lair away from the print just enough to stick the Q-tip in there, take a small swab of the print, then dip/swirl that off into the sterile shot-glass of water, and close the print, then storing it away from later uses. Then you can extract this water up into your syringe flaming the needle before and after. If you can see any amount of spores (The smallest visible cluster) there are thousands there. When making a syringe, less is more. If your syringe looks purple, or even a slight purple tint, that WAY too much spores. The more spores you add, the larger variety of genetics your going to produce with a multi spore inoculation. MS is like a box of chocolates, you never know what your gunna get. A dark syringe will produce tuns of genetics most of which are not compatible with each-other, so your colonized mycelium will be all marbled with numerous non-compatible genetics fighting for space/food. Resulting in a stressed environment for the myc, and most of the time producing a flush full of mutants and flushes generally poor in performance.

I hope this helps any noobs that may find one of my prints in there hands. You are all very much welcome, and TY for your kind words.

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