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Smurf real estate agent Reged: 04/30/13 Posts: 61889 Loc: Milky way |
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650g of coir, preferably in a brick form 3 x 650g bricks, try to find nice uniform ones, it's a VERY GOOD idea to weigh them first to make sure they're actually 650g. these things are made with little to no quality control so... I find these for 6.99 a 3pk at the garden store. an insulated 5 gallon water dispenser/cooler, or any other insulated container that's about 5 gal in volume. 5+ quarts of boiling water pour a quart+ of boiling water into your insulated water cooler. Put the lid on and shake it up. this pre-heats the bucket's insulation *you don't really need to do this and I often don't because I have shit to do* Dump out the water now you have a preheated cooler. put your coir brick in the bucket (650 grams) I actually weigh out 800g off of a big brick and water like so. 1/6 coir by weight 5/6 water by weight 0/6th coffee 0/6 vermiculite 200g coir to 1000g(1L) water (200g coir/1200g total=1/6th coir 1000g/1200g=5/6th water) 400g coir to 2000g(2L) water 800g coir to 4000g(4L) water PROtip: multiply your coir weight by 5 to get your water weight. use the metric system and your water weight is your water volume always check field capacity your coir might not be the same as my coir. (650g brick into preheated cooler like so, pour boiling water on it) Start with whatever weight of coir you want to use and multiply it by 5. for 650g of coir that's 3250. which is 3.25L of water. These numbers are what I use but each person will have a different experience. It's a VERY GOOD idea to check field capacity rather than assume the recipe you follow will translate to your house 100% perfectly. Edit for 2020 and onward. It's sounding like using 5x coir weight for water is giving many people soupy coir. And I've noticed the same with eco earth brand. Start with 3.5-4 and work your way up until you get things dialed in for your own brands and circumstances put the lid on come back in an hour and mix it up(optional) put the lid on use it the next day. If you didn't mix the coir while it was hot, that's a-ok. You can mix it once it's cooled down the next day. Remember to check your field capacity. if it's too wet you can add some vermiculite right from the bag, or wring it out as you go. If it's too dry simply add more water(room temperature tap works fine) keep notes so you can hit it dead on next time. if you decided to pre-heat the bucket the coir will be hot for nearly a whole day. you can pour it into a tub(that you're going to use to make a tub) so it cools down faster. Or just skip that step and it will be cool the next day. if you do decide to mix it up after an hour or two it will save you the hassle of breaking a few clumps the next day. I stirred some up after 90 minutes and the temperature was still 170F Sometimes you want to do more. You can do two at a time in a bigger cooler I preheat with 2-3 q of boiling water and then use roughly 8q of boiling water for the two bricks. after 90m the temperature should still be at 170F I find it's a good idea to do the mixing after an hour or two with the bigger coir preps like this, you'll have too many clumps the next day and it's a bit of a hassle. After 90m I can do it with a long handled spoon wearing no gloves so don't be a pussy and mix that shit up. Coir or CVG(coir verm gypsum) DOES NOT require pasteurization, there are no beneficial thermophilic microbes thus there's no reason to pasteurize. Partial sterilization is 170F for 10 minutes. Of course this is not true sterilization but it's past pasteurization. Coir works better cooked, you can simply hydrate coir with tap water and use it as a substrate, but mycelium enjoys cooked coir more, hence why I use an insulated bucket. I find the temperatures in the bucket to be well above 170F over an hour later. This makes the coir come out a nice dark color which is what I look for. Bod's monotub and And video of how to do it Described as the amount of water your substrate will hold before moisture/water will come out on it's own. It's how much water something can hold onto before gravity will cause pooling on the bottom. Generally it's tested by squeezing a handful of substrate and judging dripping that comes off. You want a few drops to a small stream that trickles to a stop quickly. http://www.mushroomvideos.com/C In the let's grow mushrooms videos by RR you can see at 32 seconds into the video on casing layer preparation the example of field capacity results coir + verm, no gypsum used coir + verm, no gypsum used coir+verm, no gypsum used Coir + verm, no gypsum used Only Coir, (MS genetics) Only Coir only coir I kept these ESS tubs around just to show how hard it is to contaminate coir substrates Spawned on 1/12/17 First pins 1/24/17 Harvested first flush 2/2/17 Pictured 3/6/17 On the 5/6th flush 53-54 days old. shrunk, covered in spores, torn up, chunks missing, and no mold anywhere Bad spawn fucks tubs. --------------------
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