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Space Travellin Registered: 02/13/00 Posts: 66,015 Loc: 9th Dimension |
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This thread is intended to be an all-purpose source of information for all your backpacking needs - with a heavy focus on ultralight backpacking.
*Note - I have not included absolutely EVERYTHING, I'm sure some things may be left out. But this is mainly as a primer for backpacking information and resources for the novice and veterans alike. I wrote this guide while preparing for a Thru-Hike of the Appalachian Trail, which is a 2,200 mile trail stretching from Georgia to Maine and takes about 3-6 months of hiking to complete. So this guide is geared more for Thru-Hikers and long distance hiking over long periods of time. Some of the information in here may not be relevant for short day hikes and such. (such as the food section). But much of this information is very relevant to hikers/outdoorsmen in general Ultralight backpacking does NOT mean sacrificing comfort. Quite the contrary - the foundation of ultralight hiking is increasing comfort and enjoyment levels of the outdoors by reducing pack weight without sacrificing important things like good food, a warm cozy shelter and essential survival tools. It's about bringing what you DO NEED and NOT bringing what you don't need. It's about surviving and thriving - without carrying a ton of unnecessary weight. In the old days, it was not uncommon for multi-day survival packs to weigh upwards of 80-100 lbs. Thanks to constant advances in technology and lightweight materials and advances in the survival industry, we can often see thru-hikers packing less than 20 lbs including food and water. Many ultralight thru-hikers shoot for BASE PACK WEIGHTS (total weight of your gear MINUS food and water) of about 10-15 lbs. Surviving is as much about sustaining your energy as anything else, and taking 40 or 50 lbs off your back saves a whole lot of energy. Not to mention wear and tear on your back and knees. Now going to base pack weight of 10 lbs, may be a little too extreme lightweight and minimalist for some people. I'm one of them. I like having some of my creature comforts and I don't shave every single corner possible. But even still - using some of their philosophies is a good way to get some ideas to shave unnecessary weights where you might have them, and you can use it to improve your setup. * IMPORTANT: It should be noted that ultralight backpacking is situational as to its effectiveness. GREAT for a thru-hike up the Appalachian trail, for example, where weather is generally mild and resources and resupplying is almost always within easy reach. (Appalachian Trail thru-hikers in fact.. pioneered a lot of ultralight concepts and equipment). NOT SO GREAT for say.. mountaineering to the peak of Mt. Everest, where you MUST carry tons of essential survival gear/food and extreme weather clothing, Oxygen tanks, and more. In some situations such as these - you may need to carry ALL your extreme weather gear, supplies, food and water for the ENTIRE journey, you can't resupply or stock up along the way. So there are some scenarios where 'going ultralight' is NOT practical at all and actually a VERY BAD idea. However lightweight GEAR CHOICES - without sacrificing ANY functionality is always a good idea to lighten your load. So with that in mind - ALWAYS PACK ACCORDING TO YOUR ENVIRONMENT AND CLIMATE, and always carry the 10 essentials at the very least. If you are camping in freezing conditions, you need the warm weather clothes and sleeping bag to handle those temps, you will probably want an axe, saw and good strong knife for processing wood, as a general example. If you are in the jungle, you need a machete, bug protection and multiple different other things. As the boy scouts say, BE PREPARED. Always pack according to your environment. Use common sense. . There is a famous Ultralight Backpacker Saying: "THE MORE I CARRY, THE MORE I ENJOY CAMPING. THE LESS I CARRY, THE MORE I ENJOY HIKING SO WITH THAT SAID, ARE YOU HIKING OR CAMPING?" The general concept behind lightweight backpacking is to shave unnecessary weight wherever possible without sacrificing function or comfort of your essential items. It's about having everything you NEED, and getting rid of the stuff you DON'T need. This is a matter of trial and error and experimentation. Another big concept is having things serve as a multi-purpose tool where possible.. For example you wrap some duct tape around a small pen, this saves space and you have a duct tape dispensing writing utensil. Duct tape is an invaluable tool, but no one needs to carry a giant bulky roll with 50' of tape. 3'-5' or so of duct tape should be all you should ever need to take hiking, for emergency repairs on your pack for example, or to help construct an emergency shelter. A simple bandana can serve a hundred different purposes. Modern ultralight equipment often makes use of space-age lightweight waterproof materials like silnylon and lightweight but very durable metals. Titanium pots weigh practically nothing, and you can make or buy an "aluminum can" stove that weighs an ounce and boils water perfectly fine, instead of carrying a 'backpacking stove' that weighs 2 lbs. You can get a ultralight pack that weights 3lbs total, vs a pack that weighs 9LBS, A 2lb hammock vs a 5lb tent.. all the pounds and ounces add up. These are things to consider. This is a work in progress - I will be expanding and adding to this thread over time, Please feel free to contribute any sites with valuable information, offer suggestions or your words of wisdom. Useful Links http://www.wilderness-survival. http://hikinghq.net/ http://www.backpacking.net/ http://www.the-ultralight-site. http://www.litebackpacker.com/ http://www.survivaltopics.com/ http://whiteblaze.net/ - The Official Appalachian Trail Thru-Hiker Forum Gear Links Campmor - Great place for cheap gear/clothes Links to other threads Make your own Ultralight Gear The Ultimate Backpacking Checklist Ultralight Base Loads Post your blade Great Articles The Ultralight Philosophy Reducing Pack Weight Gear Planning Survival Kits/Ideas - A survival kit is essential if you plan on going into the wilderness or backcountry. The basic idea is a LOT of lifesaving useful tools packed into a very small space, separate from and IN ADDITION to your normal gear and the essential ten. A basic survival kit contains all the essentials for survival (overlapping the ten essentials), including: Hydration, Nutrition, Extra Clothing, Illumination/Signalling, Sun Protection, Navigation, First Aid, Fire Starting, Knife/Repair Tool, Shelter. You can build your own survival kit for relatively cheap. This is something you can carry for a backup "just in case". - Homemade Survival Kit - Altoids Tin Survival Kit - Survival Kit Packing List * Not specifically mentioned in any of these kits, but what I consider as an absolute essential for my firetarting tools, is I always carry a Firesteel. Light my Fire Firesteel - http://www.lightmyfireusa.com/f HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. It weights mere ounces, and one firesteel can spark THOUSANDS of fires in almost ANY condition (even wet)... throwing a shower of 5,500F degree sparks with a flick of your wrist. I also carry something similar to Fatwood or Maya Dust in my fire starting kit for tinder in tough conditions. #######Gear choices####### The first thing you always want to look at when considering lightening your load is what we refer to as the "Big Three Weights" - Shelter, Pack, Sleeping gear. These three things combined are the heaviest pieces of gear you will carry. The only thing that should weigh more is food and water. Reducing weight in these three categories should be the first place you start, as you will get the most mileage from reducing weight here. Then you can start to fine tune the other stuff like cooking items, etc. Fortunately with our modern technology there have been amazing advances in ultralight gear and there are many options. Shelters Your shelter is probably one of the most important pieces of your survival gear. A human being can survive for up to a week without water... several weeks without food.. but in harsh conditions without shelter you will not last long exposed to the elements. Of course, one could always build a shelter from natural materials in a survival situation, or find a cave or hole to crawl in.. but in some situations that may not be an option.. a quick and easy cozy shelter and protection from the elements is VITAL to maintaining a good healthy state of being. And your mental state is PRIORITY NUMBER ONE in a survival scenario. As far as ultralight shelters go, you have a couple options. Tarps, Hammocks, Ultralight tents and Bivy sacks, or any combination thereof. Tents A good tent is a good thing to have. Pros: - The major advantage of freestanding tents is that they have full coverage, are often roomy and can sleep multiple people, and can be pitched just about anywhere there is level ground. Tents are an all around solid shelter against the elements. Cons: - The major disadvantages of tents is that they are often heavier and bulkier then other shelter options. Not even a concern for the average car camper. A major concern for the backpacker. - You also have to worry about sleeping on sticks, rocks.. unlevel ground.. and water getting in. (If you've ever woken up in a river, not fun) Most lightweight backpacker purists tend to opt for more lightweight shelters such as tarptents or hammocks. However there are now many modern lightweight backpacking tents nowadays weighing ~2 pounds, so they have come a very long way. However, a good ultralight tent weighing 1-2lbs also tend to be very expensive since they tend to use carbon fiber poles, silnylon, etc. Good Tent manufacturers: Marmot, Mountain Hardware, Big Agnes, North Face, Helleberg MSI I DO NOT RECOMMEND GETTING CHEAP TENT - such as the "Ozark Trail" Walmart line. These are good for a day camp at the beach, but NOT for survival. Cheap tents are usually cheap for a REASON. They skimp on waterproofing, etc and generally fall apart after a couple uses. With a tent you want all seams to be sealed (cheap tents do NOT have sealed seams and leak usually), good quality materials, etc. A good QUALITY tent is generally going to cost at least $150-200 and up. If you are thinking about buying a $30 tent.. BEWARE. You DO NOT want to wake up soaked inside your tent after a big rainstorm. Get a good quality tent. Hammocks Hammocks are a very excellent option wherever there are trees. This is my shelter of choice for solo camping in a milder climate. PROS: - You sleep like a baby. It feels amazing on your back (is actually good for your back if you have back problems) and relaxes your muscles. It distributes all your weight evenly, so you are not sleeping on pressure points or waking up with weird crinks in your neck. It's like sleeping in a cocoon. I ALWAYS wake up feeling refreshed and amazing after sleeping in my hammock. - You never have to worry about finding level ground, or waking up soaked laying in a pool of water because you camped in a ditch or valley and it poured, as can happen with a tent or tarp. .... you never have to worry about sleeping on rocks and sticks etc.. as you are off the ground. All you need is two trees or solid objects to hang off of.. giant rocks, I have even seen people hang hammock between two jeeps. (PRO TIP - always tie your hammock to something VERY sturdy and stable. It is not only exerting all your weight against it, but as the force is exerting sideways and at an angle, AND you can swing etc... this multiplies the weight, a single person weighing ~180lbs sleeping in a hammock can potentially exert MULTIPLE HUNDREDS of pounds of lateral force against each side, so DO NOT hang your hammock on weak trees or unstable rocks etc.) Just to give you an idea, bigger people have been known to rip down support beams and ripped studs out of their walls by hanging hammocks indoors on weak or old structures. - Much, much less chance of surprise snakes, scorpions or tarantulas and other creepy-crawlies getting in your sleeping bag or in your shelter. They like to stay on the ground. - Most hammocks utilize a lightweight tarp (usually sil-nylon) over the hammock as a shelter. Most also have a built in very fine bug netting, so it's technically like a hammock tent. Hammocks are an excellent choice for jungles and moderate forests, and anywhere you can string them up basically. Stay off the ground and stay dry.. sleep like a baby. - Hammocks are extremely lightweight and pack small. My hennessy hammock packs down to a very small package and weighs about 1.5lbs total. CONS - The absolute biggest downside to hammocks is that they generally sleep 10-20 degrees colder than being on the ground, as you have free air moving above you AND under you. The hammocks are basically just a thin layer of synthetic material so they are not really insulated. In warmer weather this is not an issue, but in colder weather you need some type of insulation and wind barrier underneath you, or the warmth will just get sucked right out of you. There are basically two options. You can use a closed-cell foam pad. They also have "underquilts" which is basically a down sleeping bags with water resistant shell that are cut to form to fit the hammock, you attach them underneath the outside of the hammock and this creates a thermal barrier and air insulation. These can get very pricey if you buy them (they run about $200-300). Some more crafty people make their own. But when it gets cold outside, it gets really cold in a hammock, so if you are sleeping in colder weather (anything under ~40-50 degrees) you need some dead air pockets and some type of insulation and wind protection. But with good insulation you can sleep in a hammock in freezing or subzero temps no problems. Here's an example of one popular company that sells underquilts - http://www.jacksrbetter.com/Hen I find a regular cheapo closed cell foam pad works great, in conjunction with a synthetic sleeping bag, this is the poor man's option. (it has to be CLOSED cell foam, or else it wont work at blocking the wind thus defeating the purpose). I have used this combination in temperatures down to about 20 degrees F with no problems while still staying toasty warm in my hammock. The major complaint people have with the pads, is that they generally make the hammock less comfortable to sleep in than not having one, and they can be bulky and cumbersome. But they do get the job done. This is probably the best alternative if you cannot afford or make your own underquilt. The obvious advantage to an underquilt, is that since they are outside of the hammock, it does not interfere with how you sleep inside it. The underquilt is more comfortable and are usually good to lower temperatures. I have also seen people sew "pockets" all over the underside of the hammock. Then when they need insulation just stuff it full of leaves and grass. The basic idea is just to create a wind barrier and dead air pockets between you and the wind/cold air. Hennessy Hammocks - My favorite! MacCat Tarps - Highly recommended Speer's Hammock Tarps Jacks R Better Underquilts, Tarps and Hammocks Hammock Forums - Great forum for ALL your hammock needs! How to stay dry in a hammock Tarps/Tarp Tents PROS: - An excellent shelter option offering the ultimate in flexibility. Tarps can be pitched in hundreds of different ways, are extremely lightweight and very versatile. CONS: - The biggest downside to a tarp shelters is exposure to bugs (unless you have a bug netting), and being on the ground can be exposed to ground water and crawlies. Some people sleep with a tarp or 'footprint' under them in the tarp, some people just sleep on the ground in their bag. http://www.litebackpacker.com/u Tarptent - The originals! Recommended. Six Moon Tarps - These are amazing! MacCat Tarps - Highly recommended Granite Gear Tarps GoLite Shelters Bivy sacks - Probably the lightest of all the options. For the uber-minimalist. They are basically just a waterproof sack that you put your sleeping bag in. Some use these in conjunction with a tarp shelter for more weather protection. Packs There are literally hundreds of choices to choose from when it comes to packs. First, you need to decide how much gear you are going to be carrying, that is the biggest factor when deciding what size capacity pack to get. Then you need to decide between external frame or internal frame. External frame packs are big and bulky. The frame is on the outside which the pack, suspension and pockets are attached to. They are good for carrying heavy loads, generally have lots of pockets, and being wider and bulkier, have a much higher center of gravity. External frame also tend to be a lot heavier than internal frames, and for these reasons they are usually avoided completely by ultralight hikers. However, many a hiker loves their external frame packs. They can no doubt carry a lot of gear, have lots of pockets and lots of places to store things. Due to having a frame, you can also strap things to the outside such as Axes, hiking poles, rifle, etc etc. These are the "old school" packs. Internal frame packs are designed to fit snugly against the back. The frame is an integral component. They are generally more narrow, and tend to have less pockets than external frame packs.. focusing more on one big main compartment and maybe one or two small pockets. Having a narrow profile, fitting snugly against the back and generally being much lighter than external frame packs - these are the packs of choice for ultralight hikers. There are tons of options of internal frame packs, and some manufacturers have got them down to ridiculously low weights. For example, sea to summit has a 26L pack that weighs a mere 1 lb. 11 oz. A comparable pack of heavier materials could weight upwards of 5-8lbs for the pack alone. Here are some favorite manufacturers: Granite Gear Ultralight Packs - Made famous by AT thru-hikers Gregory Packs Maker of some very fine packs! Six Moon Ultralight Packs Assortment of Ultralight packs Sleeping Bags When choosing a sleeping bag, the most important factor is the temperature range. All bags are rated according to the lowest temperature they are effective to. So if you plan on sleeping in freezing conditions during the winter, you probably need a 20 or 0 degree bag (or lower, depending how cold it gets). For general 3 season camping, a 40 degree bag is usually fine. However, be SMART about the bag you choose. Don't just get a 0 or 20 degree bag just because it's good to lower temperatures, if you mostly camp in moderate climates in the spring/summer/fall. Some people have two bags. A 40/60 degree bag for warmer seasons, and a colder rated bag for winter. If there is one thing that is worse than being a little too cold due to choosing the wrong bag... it is waking up COMPLETELY DRENCHED IN SWEAT because you are sleeping in a 0 degree bag in 50 degree weather. HYPOTHERMIA is a very serious threat, and it does not have to be freezing temperatures to get hypothermia. Simply being wet for extended periods of the time, even in 50 degree weather can lead to hypothermia. Staying warm is important. But equally important is STAYING DRY. This is also the same reason you choose synthetic wicking materials and wool clothes instead of cotton. Sweat is to some extent, unavoidable while hiking. Getting wet is going to happen. The idea is when you do sweat or get wet, for it to dry off as fast as possible. And cotton takes forever to dry. If you ever DO get hypothermia on the trail.. the best thing to is GET OUT OF THE WET CLOTHES, get into CLEAN DRY CLOTHES, and get into your warm sleeping bag. The second thing to consider, is: Down or Synthetic filling. The two both have pros and cons, you must figure out what is most important to you. DOWN FILL: Pros: very light, packs very small. Cons: Almost ZERO insulation value when wet. Down relies on "loft" and air pockets to maintain warmth... and wet down has NO loft. So a wet down sleeping bag is almost completely worthless as insulation. Also with down, the side your weight is on will have very little insulation (not an issue when sleeping on a sleeping pad, but this can get cold sleeping on a cold ground). If your bag ever gets soaked on the trail it will have almost no insulation value until it dries, this can be dangerous in a hypothermia situation, where a warm sleeping bag is critical. SYNTHETIC FILL: Pros: Retains ALL of its insulation value even while soaking wet. The side you are sleeping on retains its insulation qualities as well. This is probably the best choice for general 3-season camping, just for insurance. Better to be soaking wet and warm, then soaking wet and shivering. Cons: a bit heavier than down bags. Much bulkier (takes up more pack space). However, with advances in synthetic fill as well.. modern synthetic bags can weigh very little and can pack a lot smaller than they used to. Making them comparable in packing size/weight to down. Although down will always be lighter in general, the gaps are not as big as they used to be. Synthetic fill bags are the bags of choice especially for a hypothermia situation or when you may get wet. KNIVES Knives are another personal matter. There are a million choices when it comes to knives, but no one will deny that one of THE most important pieces of gear you carry into the wilderness should be a knife. Ideally you want a knife that is sharp, reliable and strong and will hold up under a lot of stress.. always keep it sharp. A knife is an invaluable tool in the wilderness and you should never be without one while backpacking, if not two or three. Most people have a "main" knife, and one or two backup knives, or knives for different purposes. There are also a LOT of great knife companies out there and I only have experience with a handful, so I can't name them all.. but some of the best and most respected off the top of my head are: Fallkniven, Gerber, Kershaw, RAT Cutlery, Cold Steel, Bark River, MORA, Mil-Tac, SOG... For most tasks, any sort of knife will do really. I myself prefer to carry a couple knives, a main fixed-blade survival knife.. with a ~4" blade of high quality steel. I generally also carry a carbon steel blade for general tasks and everyday abuse, as these sharpen nicely. You don't need a 9" rambo knife, although a machete can come in handy in some situations. I have several MORA knives and absolutely love them. They are made in Sweden and made of high quality carbon steel (meaning they rust easily - you must take care of them!) - but they also sharpen very easily. They are also DIRT cheap, I paid $5, $10 and $15 for my Mora knives. Being that they are so cheap, I don't mind abusing them, and I'm not scared of losing them like I am with a $100+ knife. They are inexpensive knives, but they are NOT cheap.. they are high quality blades. Highly recommended. Mora knives are generally my "backup" knives, or all-purpose, general abuse My "main" blade is a Fallkniven F1. It is an absolutely fantastic blade made of VG10 laminated steel (SUPER hard and durable) and can be used for so many tasks. I have used it for everything from splitting wood to slicing tomatoes. A good knife should be able to handle almost any task you throw at it, from cutting rope to small branches to skinning an animal and slicing your food. A good bushcraft or survival knife should even be able to split branches and small logs. If you want to split or process any quantity of wood though... get an axe IMO. A decent axe will split wood 10x easier and with 1/2 of effort of any knife, all day long. It's well suited for it's job. Different tools for different jobs. Axes are more dangerous than knives (due to their size and the way they are handled), and a good survival knife should be able to split wood if needed. But I recommend a small axe for bushcraft and survivalism. For most hiking purposes it usually isn't needed.. but if you plan to be in backcountry for any amount of time I highly recommend you carry an axe or at least a foldable saw as part of your arsenal as it can save you a LOT of energy. I personally carry a variety of tools, 2-3 knives, my gransfors bruks axe, and a sven folding saw. overkill maybe but like the boyscouts say, be prepared. I got a cutting and chopping tool for any occasion. On that note - Gransfors Bruks makes the best axes I have ever seen, they are hand forged in Sweden and come with a 20 year guarantee. I have a Small Forest Axe and it's amazing. I had to plug them. It's not "ultralight" - but I don't think I'll ever go backcountry without my axe ever again.. it only weighs 2 lbs. I think it's worth its weight in gold. Related Knife Stuff: Knife Forums Post your blade Ultralight Alcohol Stoves Penny Stove Trianga Stove How to make a Pepsi Can Stove Full list of different alcohol stoves and how to make them Clothing Touched on this earlier with sleeping bags. A few common principles to outdoor clothing.. No cotton period if it can be avoided. Synthetic polypro wicking type materials or wool are ideal. The reason for no cotton is simple, because when it gets wet.. it stays wet for a very long time. This is whatever in hot/dry climates. But in cooler climates and in winter environments this can create serious problems if you get wet and stay wet for a long time, which can lead to hypothermia. It doesn't have to be freezing temperatures to get hypothermia either. People have been known to get hypothermia in 60 degree weather. Pick synthetic fabrics or wool for your outdoors gear, as they breathe well and dry VERY rapidly. Even if you don't get wet from outside, you will sweat, and you want clothes that will wick it. This includes your socks. Nuff said. You want some rain gear. Generally this just means some kind of waterproof jacket or shell. Waterproof pants aren't really needed in most cases but they can help depending on what kind of weather you expect, it's up to you. But a waterproof outer layer or poncho or something is definitely needed. I use Frogg Troggs. Many thru-hikers swear by them for their extreme lightweight and very good water repellent but also breathability. Dress according to the weather and climate. If it could potentially be cold, bring plenty of cold clothes. Bring EXTRA DRY CLOTHES, bring EXTRA SOCKS. If there's anything worse than wet feet, it's wet feet for long periods of time developing into trench foot and blisters... NO FUN. Your feet will get wet at some point, if you are backpacking, ideally you can dry out your boots/shoes and socks at the end of the day and have fresh dry socks to wear. Try not to walk in wet shoes for long periods of time. DRESS IN LAYERS. Don't bring big, bulky clothing items. (Unless you HAVE to.. like climbing Mt Everest..again.. dress for the climate) In general, you should opt for multiple layers of thinner material, that way you can remove or add layers as needed. Usually the legs don't require as much insulation... so even in winter conditions, a thermal base layer and some waterproof/windproof pants/shell is usually all you need unless its super cold. Also while hiking you generate a lot of heat so not much clothes are needed, hikers are usually smelly and don't care. Many hikers in mild areas only bring 2 or 3 changes of clothes, but just make sure you are always adequately geared and prepared for the weather you plan on being in. If winter camping in cold weather - MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF EXTRA CLOTHES / WARM CLOTHES
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Space Travellin Registered: 02/13/00 Posts: 66,015 Loc: 9th Dimension |
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Water
WATER IS LIFE. Water is THE single most important thing on the trail. It's equally important in every day life... but on the trail it's importance and impact is multiplied Dehydration is your biggest concern, next to shelter. In extreme conditions, you can only live a few hours without shelter. You can only live a few days (2-3) without water. And you can live a few weeks without food. After one day without water, you are already severely dehydrated and your body is deteriorating. Water is life. In a desert environment, that 2-3 days can become much shorter. While hiking, As a general rule you want to consume at least ~1 gallon (4 liters) of water per day in order to stay properly hydrated. In hot weather, exposed to the sun, excessive sweating.. smoking.. drinking alcohol.. caffiene.. all these things increase the amount of water your body needs to stay properly hydrated. In a desert-type environment with very high temperatures and brutal beating down of the sun, one may need to consume TWO TO THREE TIMES as much water as normal, or more in order to stay hydrated. Things like Coffee, Soda, Tea, Alcohol, Salty, Processed Foods, Smoking.... all these things will dehydrate you even more.. and the toxins require additional water so that your body can flush it from your system, so you must drink even more water to replace those fluids that are used. How much water YOU need personally depends on a thousand different variables, including everything mentioned above and more. But on average - Figure you need to drink at least a gallon of water a day while on the trail - Baseline. (This is like, in a forest ) In a desert environment with high heat and lots of sun - you may need to consume 3-4 gallons a day to stay properly hydrated. Water should be your beverage of choice, you can occasionally switch it up by mixing in some electrolyte mix or fruity mix as you can get tired of drinking plain water all the time. However, as important as it is to drink water, you don't want to drink TOO much. It is possible if drink too much water too fast, you may "flush" all the salts/electrolytes from your body, and if you don't replace them you can find yourself in a bad situation. So it's important to keep a balance. There is such a thing as drinking TOO MUCH water.. but it's rather hard to do.... you'd have to be chugging the shit out of gallons. Most people just naturally know when they are properly hydrated. It's far more dangerous (and harder to tell) when you are dehydrated, so much easier to err on the side of caution by just drinking water consistently and frequently. You can also avoid this by just mixing an electrolyte mix in with your water every so often. The main issue is if you drink TOO MUCH water too fast, and you don't replace all those lost electrolytes, you will oversaturate your body and can get water poisoning. This is extremely rare, however. That generally can only happen if you do NOTHING but drink a ton of water and don't eat any food or replace any of the lost salts in your system. This means to snack often in order to replace all those lost carbs, fat, protein and electrolytes. Bring some powdered electrolyte mixes to mix with your water. Not only do you need those electrolytes, but you get tired of drinking pure water all the time, so mix it up a little. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone ever getting water intoxication from over-consumption of water in the outdoors though, that's only been at like... water drinking competitions. I don't know why I even mention it here... but whatever. BY THE TIME YOU ARE "THIRSTY", YOUR BODY IS ALREADY IN THE BEGINNING STAGES OF DEHYDRATION. DRINK WATER OFTEN, BEFORE YOU GET THIRSTY You will want several ways to carry small amounts of water, as well as a way to filter or purify it from a natural source. Regular plastic gatorade or soda bottles work fine for holding water - you need not buy expensive (and heavy) nalgene bottles. For carrying larger quantities of water, consider a water reservoir/pouch similar to a camelback, they come in all sort of forms. A cheap alternative is those bags the box wines come in.. they hold about 3 liters. However water is heavy, (1 gallon of water weighs ~8.5 lbs) and on the trail, you can't carry a 7 day supply of water with you.... so you need some way to acquire it from your environment. WATER PURIFICATION AND STERILIZATION: You do not EVER want to drink water straight unfiltered/unsterilized from a stream or pond or natural source unless you are absolutely 100% positive it is a pure source. The parasites Giardia and Cryptosporidium are an outdoorsman's worst enemies and no joke at all. There are other bacteria and parasites (and chemical waste!!) to worry about, but those are the most prevalent and dangerous ones to be concerned about in North America. In the US/Canada, it very unlikely you would ever encounter any bacteria which could easily kill you.. the worst you can usually expect is to make you very sick.. but the last thing you want in the backcountry is an extreme case of diarrhea and puking for a week straight, in the wilderness this CAN be a life-threatening illness if not treated (due to extreme dehydration), so don't take your water lightly!! THIS CANNOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH. PURIFY YOUR WATER IN THE OUTDOORS!! A CASE OF GIARDIA WILL HAVE YOU SHITTING LIQUID OUT OF YOUR ASS AND MOUTH FOR A WEEK STRAIGHT OR LONGER. THAT IS ENOUGH TO KILL YOU IN A SURVIVAL SITUATION. ALL IT TAKES IS ONE SIP OF INFECTED WATER. AND IT DOESN'T MATTER HOW CLEAN THE WATER LOOKS - THE PARASITES CAN STILL BE IN THERE. THESE PARASITE WILL RUIN YOUR FUCKING TIME IN A HURRY. DO NOT RISK IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you plan on traveling to 3rd world countries or tropical places with poor sanitation like Cambodia or Malaysia (as an example), you have a WHOLE HOST of other parasites and viruses to worry about, so you need to be EVEN MORE careful and take extra precautions with sanitizing your water. The following are the most effective methods for water purification: - Boiling water - This is the oldest and most reliable way to purify water. Boiling at a "ROLLING BOIL" for 5 minutes will kill any bacteria, pathogens and viruses in the water... basically everything. The only thing boiling does NOT get rid of is chemical pollutants. However while boiling alone will kill any viruses and bacteria, it does not remove sediment and other impurities, which will still be floating in there. For that reason most people will at least usually filter the water through a bandana or something similar before boiling to filter out the large pieces of dirt/insects etc... - Water Filters- Most GOOD water filters with a 0.2 micron carbon filter or better will remove both Giardia and Cryptosporidium, as well as most bacteria and parasites. The only thing water filters will not remove is viruses, (unless they have a "iodine matrix" (viruses you only really have to worry about in third world countries or areas with very poor sanitation) and chemical pollution. In most cases a GOOD water filter is all you need, but if you are very concerned about the source, then you can filter the water first to remove any bacteria/sediment, then boil it to completely eliminate any viruses. - Iodine/Water Purification Tablets- is effective at killing most parasites, bacteria and viruses when used correctly, but it leaves a nasty taste (which can be covered up by flavored mixes or vitamin C). But long term use of iodine treatment is not recommended as it can lead to thyroid problems. Iodine is not 100% effective at killing Cryptosporidium however. - Reverse-Osmosis- Filters can be used, but are not at all practical for hikers as Reverse Osmosis systems are bulky, heavy and expensive. These are generally found on boats, or lifeboats. They are able to desalinate salt water (turn salt water into potable drinking water) and will kill almost all biological contaminants so are extremely effective. - Distillation - Is another very accurate method of water purification. It involves separating the water from the substance by means of vaporization and condensation. A primitive "solar still" can be made such as found in survival guides; by digging a hole in the ground in full sun, lining it with a bunch of wet plant material and covering to top of the hole with a piece of clear plastic weighted tight on all sides and then a rock or something can be placed in the middle to weigh it down. Under the rock in the hole goes a cup or your collection device and all the water vapor will condense on the plastic and then run down to your container and you have clean drinking water. As in this picture Viruses are very seldom found in water, especially in wilderness areas, but the odds increase near dense population areas and poor sanitation practices. Most filters will not remove viruses unless they have an iodine matrix, iodine will kill them but boiling is the most surefire method. Thus it is recommended in third world countries and anywhere with a questionable water supply - to always boil the water for at least 5 minutes. For the most surefire and reliable method of water purification - I recommend a combination of filtering your water with a 0.2 micron filter and then boiling it. This is almost sure to purify even the nastiest of water - aside from chemical pollutants (more on that below. It may be overkill, but better to be safe then sorry I say. This will get rid and kill any sediment, bacteria, pathogens, viruses. In most cases from clean sources, just using a good water filter is enough... or just boiling is enough. But when in doubt, filter.. then boil. Chemical pollution can NOT be removed by boiling, most filters, or iodine. So it is to be avoided completely. i.e - Don't get your water downstream from a chemical plant or major farm, the hudson river in NYC.. etc. Chemicals could include heavy metals (arsenic, mercury, etc) or organic toxins (fertilizer, pesticides runoff, etc).. these could ruin your day/life in a hurry. But water in the backcountry is seldom contaminated with a sufficient amount of toxic chemicals to cause concern. The best way to tell if water is contaminated with chemical pollutants is to LOOK in the water, SMELL it, look at it.....ask yourself some questions: - Is there ALGAE GROWING on the rocks? - Are there FISH swimming in the water? - Are there PLANTS growing in the water, or plentiful near the edge of the water? - Are there any LIVING THINGS IN and AROUND the water? - SMELL the water, does it smell like.... water? Or does it smell like raw sewage and sour nasty smells? If it smells nasty, you probably should avoid it. Trust your senses. Basically if the water looks like LIFE - with stuff growing in/around it and swimming in it - it should be ok. If this all checks out, then it is probably safe, from toxic chemical pollution anyway. You still want to purify via boiling or another method to kill any parasites, even if it looks crystal clear. Unless you are completely clueless, you can almost always tell when water is chemically polluted with toxic waste and should not be drank. Generally this will be bodies of water or rivers within big cities or downstream from major cities or chemical plants and major agriculture areas and whatnot.. the further you are away from society, the less this is a concern. If you are in the middle of the wilderness, chemically polluted water shouldn't really ever be a concern. So presumably if you are near society you have access to clean water anyway. So this shouldn't be as big of a concern... but it is still something to stay vigilant of. Links Tips for finding safe drinking water Limitation of Water Filters and Water Purification DEHYDRATION - HOW CAN YOU TELL? How can you tell when you are dehydrated? Well, if you are thirsty.. that's a sign that your body is already in the beginning stages of dehydration. But thirst is not the best indicator.. you CAN be severely dehydrated in some cases and not even be thirsty. The best way to gauge your dehydration level is to look at your urine when you pee: - If your urine is completely clear, or light yellow (water/lemonade) - this means you are properly hydrated. - If your urine is bright yellow (mellow yellow) - you are moderately dehydrated - If your urine is DARK yellow/brown (apple juice/apple cider) and has a strong pungent odor - this means you are severely dehydrated. Drink ~10 ounces of water immediately and follow up by drinking more water every 1/2 hour or hour. Do not just chug 2 gallons of water. Drink a little bit, wait.. then drink some more. You want to "stay in the clear". If you are constantly pissing clear or light yellow urine, you are staying properly hydrated. Food Choices Food is a personal matter, but many hikers can agree on some of the basics. While hiking you are going to be hungry and will need to consume a lot more calories per day than you normally would. 4,000-6,000 calories per day is about the average. With backpacking.. food is one thing you don't want to skimp on. But you can make smart choices by bringing super dense/nutritious foods, dehydrated fruits/veggies/meat etc. You want things that will pack well (wont get crushed and can last a while without refrigeration). So basically you are looking for the most nutritionally dense foods possible, in terms of nutrition-to-weight ratio. Your body makes energy mainly from 3 things: Protein, Fat, and Carbs. It's generally accepted that the ideal trail diet should be about 65% carbs, 15% protein and 20% fat. Omega 3s are very important and most people do not get enough of them in their normal diet, you have to be extra vigilant on the trail. Foods that are especially high in Omega 3s are fish, hemp seeds, flax seeds, and walnuts. You also need to get your vitamins. Vitamin deficiencies are not uncommon on the trail.. the most common ones would be a lack of Vitamin C, and B12. As vitamin C is most prevalent in fresh fruits and vegetables, it is unstable to air, light and heat and breaks down. Thus dried fruit loses up to 90% of its original vitamin C content, it can be tougher to get on the trail. Calcium and Iron deficiencies are also not uncommon. Cheese and red meat (jerky, sardines, seeds are generally the easiest sources of these. - Canned food is generally a bad choice as they are bulky and you have to pack that extra weight in and out. Tuna in the foil packs works very well in my experience. And one exception I would make to the canned foods rule is maybe sardines in a tin, if you like that sort of thing. - GORP/TRAIL MIX..(Good Old Raisins and Peanuts) - This is a hiker snack staple. Any kind of mix of nuts, raisins, m&ms/chocolate, dried cranberries/bananas other dried fruit, etc. etc.. This is probably the ultimate snack food for backpackers. Super dense high-energy food, high in calories, protein and good fats. Satisfies the salty and sweet palate... great for replacing those lost body salts. Jerky is another protein snack favorite. Energy bars are also popular. - Avoid an excess of super sugary foods as they will cause sugar highs and a later drop. HOWEVER - there is nothing quite like munching down a quart of ice cream or a snickers bar after a grueling 30 mile day hike. Sweets are good, but in moderation. - Look for whole grain pasta mixes, jerky, grits, dried fruits, flat bread, peanut butter, oatmeal, etc.. - Avoid anything "instant" or made from bleached white flour, like Top Ramen.. white macaroni, instant oatmeal, 1 minute rice.. crap like that is just empty carbs and will generally not satisfy you for long, it is not really meaningful nutrition. Go with whole grains whenever possible. - Super nutritious superfoods can include: chlorella, seaweed, hemp seeds, walnuts/almonds, olive oil, dark chocolate, flaxseed, "green" veggies like kale/spinach etc.. beans, whole grains, and wild berries like blueberries, raspberries, goji berries, etc.. In addition to the food you pack in, you should also consider supplementing your diet with food from the wild.. especially on longer trips. It's never a bad idea to learn about the edible plants in your area. Fishing, Hunting/Trapping, and foraging for wild edible plants are all excellent ways to get nutrition from the wild. It is a good idea to bring a fishing kit if you will be near a lake or stream. A gun if you plan on hunting, or you can make a bow and arrow or other type of hunting weapon. NOTE: Make sure you properly identify wild plants before you eat them, there are things out there that are quite dangerous to eat, some of which look very similar to edible plants. Same with mushrooms... Some wild edible plants As for animals.. if it crawls, flies or swims, it can probably be eaten safely, with very few exceptions. As a rule, Do not eat insects with bright colors, stingers, or lots of legs (spiders, centipedes, etc), unless you are one of those crazy spider-eating freaks. Fresh water fish should always be cooked before being eaten due to parasites and bacteria. Saltwater fish can generally be eaten raw. Mmm Making a survival bow and arrow Fishing Making a fish spear Trapping Some different snares
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Space Travellin Registered: 02/13/00 Posts: 66,015 Loc: 9th Dimension |
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Reserved
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irregular meat sprocket Registered: 02/26/02 Posts: 11,912 Loc: looking for zeeb Last seen: 19 days, 6 hours |
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may i mention WildernessSurvival.net.
lots of good topics there, from pictorials and how-tos on outdoorsmanship, indigenous/abo skills, etc. to discussions about the impending zombocalypse and financial collapse. a good blend of the practical and the hillarious. -------------------- ![]() If you detect a scent reminiscent of Anethole (anise) please preserve a specimen or two for study and please PM me.
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The Minstrel in the Gallery Registered: 03/15/05 Posts: 95,368 Loc: underbelly |
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Cool site for some ultralight gear.
-------------------- "Don't believe everything you think". -Anom. " All that lives was born to die"-Anom. With much wisdom comes much sorrow, The more knowledge, the more grief. Ecclesiastes circa 350 BC
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Rogue Scientist Registered: 04/29/06 Posts: 13,259 Loc: 與您的女朋 |
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Edited by Brainiac (02/08/09 09:21 PM)
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The Minstrel in the Gallery Registered: 03/15/05 Posts: 95,368 Loc: underbelly |
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I like.
-------------------- "Don't believe everything you think". -Anom. " All that lives was born to die"-Anom. With much wisdom comes much sorrow, The more knowledge, the more grief. Ecclesiastes circa 350 BC
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BTH ![]() Registered: 04/08/01 Posts: 19,679 Loc: By The Lake |
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Since your now in LA you should love the information you can find on this site..
http://www.localhikes.com/msa/ms
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PNW Registered: 07/27/01 Posts: 9,817 |
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If you need a super lightweight and easy to pack item to cover your sleep area in the rain for short or long periods definitely consider bringing a wet weather poncho or 4x8 tarp (tarps this size are around $5.00 online). You'll also need four bunji cords to tie the corners down.
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Stranger Registered: 11/30/07 Posts: 1,103 Last seen: 18 days, 12 hours |
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How well does the Jacks-r-better quilt with the Hennessy Hammock. I have the henessy but my back gets cold everytime i go backpacking, even 5000 ft up in July. But i switched over to the Eno and that shit is awesome, has great accessories, great underquilt.
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Space Travellin Registered: 02/13/00 Posts: 66,015 Loc: 9th Dimension |
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I've heard good things about Eno..
Never tried it but supposedly Jacks-r-better quilts fit right on hennessys.. pretty sure their original 'nest' was designed for ultralight backpacker A-sym
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Stranger Registered: 11/30/07 Posts: 1,103 Last seen: 18 days, 12 hours |
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my buddy is in the process or opening a backpacking store in North Carolina and he is the one who got me on hennessy, but he loves the eno, i am looking forward to trying it out this winter in the north carolina mountains, hopefully i sleep warm
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... Registered: 09/09/07 Posts: 395 |
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some other alcohol stove options: These are a lot lighter OR more efficient than the trianga or penny
white box stove minibulldesigns stoves "cobalt" alcohol stove - guy is selling on ebay. Best stove for the money IMO --------------------
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Registered: 12/13/07 Posts: 16,920 Loc: |
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Thanks for putting this thread together. It is full of helpful information and links!
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Registered: 06/29/11 Posts: 947 Loc: usa Last seen: 4 years, 1 month |
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anyone frequenting the sierras should check this wild food compilation of the area.
http://www.backcountryrangers.co
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RIP Sasha Registered: 03/29/10 Posts: 28,336 Loc: TX |
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--------------------
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Registered: 03/03/10 Posts: 10,783 Loc: above the smog l Last seen: 1 year, 2 months |
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awesome stuff shroomism. I brought a freaking hookah with me backpacking. And believe it or not I bring a 7x7 camping tent and a camping sleeping bag and I still use my dad's backpack that he bought in 1960. My bag weighs so much it's fucking ridiculous, but it is fucking nice having a hookah out in the wilderness
-------------------- want a cool color changing shroom gif that is easy on the eyes for YOUR shroomery background? 3 easy steps <-- click here
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RIP Sasha Registered: 03/29/10 Posts: 28,336 Loc: TX |
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Quote: that does sound nice. how did you place it into your backpack? --------------------
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Medicine Man Registered: 04/18/13 Posts: 4,249 Loc: parallel univers |
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wow I just read that whole thing! I seriously gained a LOT of great knowledge from you this post!
Thanks you As0th -------------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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𓂀⟁𓅢𓍝𓅃𓊰𓉡 𓁼𓆗⨻ Registered: 09/16/08 Posts: 11,953 |
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My pack usually weighs a bit over 20, that is including most of the best ultralight gear, including a go-lite tent (I have 2, the eden 2 and shangri-la 5), my titanium cookset, a 3 season sleeping bag, first aid kit, katadyn water filter, platypus, thermarest sleeping mat, buck knife, matches, head lamp, lighter, small eton hand crank radio/light, clothes and towel (probably weigh the most because I bring jeans), food etc . . stuffed into an osprey exos 46. I usually put the tent and sleeping mat on the straps outside when the pack is full of food, but when it gets low everything fits inside just fine. (should have probably went with the 58, but I wanted to make myself get lightweight stuff and be fairly minimal.) Sometimes I strap a carbon fiber shimano and ugly stick on the outside if i'm going fishing, but that's just about it. (or all I can think of atm)
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Stranger Registered: 06/03/13 Posts: 10 Last seen: 9 years, 10 months |
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yes , extra socks . a simple thing that is omitted often
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Lignin seeker Registered: 07/09/11 Posts: 714 Loc: birch beech mapl |
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Wow,excellent resource. I'm planning a ultra-light long trek this year to wild-craft many edibles medicines and extraneous, plenty of good tips here.
-------------------- Ps. Allenii, Arcana, Azure, Baeos, Caerulipes, Cyan, Ovoid, Subreg, etc FT - Only seeking Ps. woodlovers - legal USA + CAN - Intended for microscopy use only
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Master Baiter Registered: 06/13/11 Posts: 11,642 Loc: Gnarnia |
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good find. marking for future reference.
thanks for posting this -------------------- I'm stupid, Falcon91Wolvrn03 is smart. I'm ugly, Falcon91Wolvrn03 is beautiful. I'm a loser, Falcon91Wolvrn03 is a winner. Someday, I hope to be like Falcon91Wolvrn03 but secretly know I never will.
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Dr. Learn'd Registered: 11/17/12 Posts: 1,192 Loc: A Park Last seen: 2 years, 3 months |
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Subbed
-------------------- Difficulty has more to do with reading abillity and ability to precisely follow directions. You need no knowledge of chemistry whatsoever, you just need to understand some basic principles as simple in concept as: water boils at 100C and freezes at 0C. Otherwise all published syntheses of organic and inorganic compounds can be reproduced successfully by pretty nearly anyone with at least average intelligence. Problems always have to do with availability of materials, not esoteric knowledge.
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Registered: 09/10/11 Posts: 1,302 |
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Excellent guide man thanks
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Mr. Breeze Registered: 09/29/15 Posts: 113 Loc: West of the Ozar Last seen: 7 years, 7 months |
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Nice little write up. Here's my quick two cents.
I've learned over the last ten years or so that there is no substitute for experience and trip planning. Through experience you'll find what works best for you and you'll ultimately lighten your load by learning what you can and can't live without. Trip planning also helps to ensure that you don't take anything you won't need on the trail thereby reducing pack weight. One of the best things you can do for yourself is to invest in quality equipment, which tends to be expensive but it performs well and is usually lighter and lasts longer. I've also found that for me stoves are more of a luxury item. I've learned to do without them on the trail and to simply pack foods that don't need cooked. Such as peanut butter and tortillas.
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Space Travellin Registered: 02/13/00 Posts: 66,015 Loc: 9th Dimension |
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I love me some food that doesn't need to be cooked and packs well, but sometimes you can't live without that sausage or bacon..
I can live on peanut butter and GORP sure but I like to eat good on the trail.. it's one of my creature comforts.. some people can live on instant ramen and hot dogs.. I like to spoil myself Sometimes I think I eat better when camping/backpacking then when I do normally at home. Food is one area I don't really compromise on. When I wrote this like almost 8 years ago I was more into Hiking solo the Appalachian Trail and shit... all those guys are super into ultra-lightweight hiking. Now I'm not solo anymore... gonna start teaching my son the ropes soon. But I care less about ultra lightweight stuff these days. I still have and will buy quality lightweight gear.. but I don't make huge sacrifices some ultralight guys make like cutting my toothbrush in half and only carrying a tarp and shit like that. I don't mind a couple extra ounces or pounds here and there if it's for something worthwhile and I get creature comforts. The more weight you have, the more you can enjoy camping The less weight, the more you enjoy hiking
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Tourist with a typewriter Registered: 11/09/16 Posts: 259 |
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Nice. I love my La Sportiva trail runners, quality shoes.
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Stranger Registered: 11/03/18 Posts: 88 Last seen: 18 days, 6 hours |
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awsome read, thanks, im off to look at tarps!!
a great addition to my pack is a few pieces of dried birch polypore mushroom, for starting fires. there super light, and you only need small peices Or some dried pine needles go up quick with a crakle n pop, they dont burn for long tho. Edited by SuperMario940 (05/09/20 12:51 AM)
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Registered: 12/08/20 Posts: 54 Loc: Where Is My Mind Last seen: 1 year, 5 months |
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Very cool writeup! Ive been many miles on handmade stuff from Ray Jardine's books. Gotta dig in to some of the other stuff too!
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