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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: misfit78]
    #13463071 - 11/10/10 09:24 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

misfit78 said:
before sterilization?



:thumbup:

If you don't have a sealer, you can use a curling iron or a clothing iron to seal bags with.

If you were to seal the bags after sterilization, unless you had a flowhood, used tyvek wrist sleeves or some other form of seal less measure to sterilize your bags, how would the bags stay sterile?



Edited by liquidmyce (11/10/10 12:06 PM)


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: misfit78]
    #13477374 - 11/13/10 08:25 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Other than being a little gross and upping the contamination count in your grow area, yes.
 
Mushrooms grown out of contaminated substrates are ok to consume so long as the mushroom body it's self isn't contaminated.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: monkiman]
    #13481360 - 11/14/10 03:37 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Quote:

will this stuff thats growing contaminate my house?




The stuff that's growing won't contaminate your house so long as you don't open the jar while it's contaminated, inside of your house. 

Do like the others suggest.  If you want to keep the jar, steam sterilize the jar and it's contents then dispose of the jar's contents in the garbage outside.  If keeping the jar is not an issue you can just throw the whole jar away (contents and all) without steam sterilizing it.


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Edited by liquidmyce (11/14/10 04:26 AM)


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: monkiman]
    #13486172 - 11/15/10 03:28 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

A 90 minute steam sterilization period is long enough.  Longer pressure cooking times are encouraged to ensure a more even sterilization.  I pressure cook everything at 20 psi for 2 hours.

The reason "unknown origin" is written on the bag your syringe came in is because the cubensis strain inside of the syringe is not known.  Instead of bastardizing the strain the vendor wrote "unknown" on the bag.

Your spores have germinated inside of your syringe.  To avoid spores germinating inside of your syringes, use distilled water to make spore solution with.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: monkiman]
    #13491245 - 11/16/10 04:10 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

Yes, your syringes are great.  Similiar to a grain "LC", germinated spores in a syringe will give you faster activation onto the substrate once inoculated over spores because the spores have already gone through the germination process and the water is now laden with live, active mycelium.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: ChaostoOrder]
    #13521342 - 11/21/10 07:51 PM (13 years, 2 months ago)

The liquid culture being in the syringe won't help it grow any faster but the culture continues to grow once inside of the syringe and will continue to grow until the mycelium consumes all the nutrients out of the liquid media and then starves to death. 

Inoculating a liquid media with a live liquid mycelium culture is a preferred method of inoculating a liquid media over inoculating it with multi spore solution.  Best to inoculate a liquid media with a known culture from live tissued agar wedge.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: monkiman]
    #13555880 - 11/29/10 03:27 AM (13 years, 2 months ago)

I wouldn't use any kibbled rye grains that have been cut in half. 

We never want the insides of our grains exposed because the starches from inside the grains will cause contamination.  Kernels cut in half would be like beginning with jars or bags full of busted kernels.

The types of seed that are most commonly found in the wild bird seed mix are milo, millet, sunflower seed, and wheat.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: hamloaf]
    #13580524 - 12/04/10 06:12 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

monkiman said:
thanks i will look for that i think i will go for the WBS.
i also found a coir brick at the garden centre but it says on it that it has peat in it, will this be an issue?



Peat moss is non-nutritions and is best to confine it's use in Mycology to casing layer applications only. 

For a bulk substrate, use pure coco coir or any other of the recommended bulk substrate materials used in Mycology such as field aged horse and cow manure and wheat straw.  The best mushroom substrates are a well balanced mix of as many bulk substrate materials and additives you can use at once to comprise one single substrate out of.

Quote:

monkiman said:
i found some millet at the pet shop will it be ok to just use that?



Millet is hollow thus carrying the least amount of nutrients than any other of the seeds used to run spawn out on.  I like to add a meatier seed to just millet like rye, wheat, or milo to puff up the nutritional content of the grain spawn or just bye bags of pre mixed premium bird seed.

Quote:

13shrooms said:
[url=http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=6016 6040 6494&pcatid=6494]http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=6016 6040 6494&pcatid=6494[/url]

$6.99 a 3-pk with $5.99 flat rate shipping no matter how much you buy. :thumbup:



Hey there.  Right now ThePetGuys have the best deal on online order-able coir. 

They don't have a flat rate shipping like Dr.foster's but their coir is $3.98 a 3 pack and orders from them are cheaper than fosters by a few dollars.  The more you order, the more you save.

http://www.petguys.com/-097612790200.html

Quote:

13shrooms said:
Quote:

ninja cat 09 said:
Isn't horticultural coir treated with trichoderma?





only certain brands, I dont know which ones though. :strokebeard:



Brands of coir that are sold in potting soil bags as an alternative to potting soil are the brands of coir that'r treated with tricoderma.  Trichoderma is a beneficial microbe for the development of roots and soil activity for plants. 

Brands of coco coir sold in the block form are usually untreated with trichoderma unless otherwise labeled on the packaging.  As a precautionary measure, when using coir as a bulk substrate material, I be sure to buy coco coir that's intended purposes are for reptile bedding.  Better safe than sorry.


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Edited by liquidmyce (12/04/10 08:23 AM)


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: ninja cat 09]
    #13650503 - 12/18/10 03:57 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

From as far as I can tell, that jar of birdseed is fully colonized.  Open it up and give it a wiff.  If it smells of sweet mushroom mycelium, spawn it. 

Another good sign that your jar isn't contaminated is to break it up.  If the grains separate from each other with ease, that's a symptom of healthy grain spawn as well.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: monkiman]
    #13678462 - 12/24/10 03:06 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

monkiman said:
hi
im doing my first bulk grow, and i want to know if i can use tyvek and micropore tape instead of polyfill in my holes?



Yes, use tyvek and micropore tape doubled up over your gas exchange holes like this,

Tyvek.
Micropore tape.
Tyvek.
Micropore tape.

Micropore tape/tyvek gas exchange filter material will begin to decrease in pore size due to the intense heat of the sterilizer.
Micropore tape/tyvek filter material will need to be replaced every other time through the sterilizer because of the reduction in pore sizes due to the intense heat of the sterilization cycle.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: Base Icks]
    #13682407 - 12/25/10 09:40 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

Base Icks said:
Quote:

monkiman said:
hi
im doing my first bulk grow, and i want to know if i can use tyvek and micropore tape instead of polyfill in my holes?



Are you talking about your jar holes or your monotub holes?



:strokebeard:

:lolsy:

:stoned:

:highfive:


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: circuspimp]
    #13699508 - 12/29/10 04:54 AM (13 years, 1 month ago)

Quote:

circuspimp said:
hi you all, I am new here and I have a question, I am using the rye grain substrate and I have the white  velvet looking mycelium growing, my question is when should I bang my jars? The reason I ask is my first attempt with rye i had banged my jars when they where 25% colonized and they all stopped growing so now (new rye jars) I had just left them alone and they are fully colonized, and it seems that evrytime I get jars fully colonized and put in my fruiting chamber they end up getting some green fuzzies on the cakes (brown rice cakes) this is why I am using rye now. sorry this is so long, but I really want to have a successful grow this time. I just dont know why how I can get the jars to colonize but why I can't get it to fruit? I bought me a hepa air thing and a humidifier but I dont know how to get them to fit together in my fruiting/birthing chamber? Any good tips will be much appreciated. thank you and sorry again for the long post.



Sounds to me like your hitting your mycelium upon it's surface to hard.
What are you using to break your mycelium upon?
Beating the hell out of your mycelium is like you taking a bad-ass beating, you may not recover from that.

Grain jars shouldn't be "banged" per say but rather a few light taps, while gripping the jar as loose as possible without loosing the jar, onto a rolled up telephone book or an inflated bicycle tire.
By tapping our jars while gripping them as loose as possible, what we are trying to accomplish is sending the shock of the tap through out the mycelium and grains breaking them apart readily and easily.
By gripping your jars tightly while breaking up the grains, the shock is absorbed by your hand and arm.
Your mycelium will break-up pretty readily and easily upon tapping the jars onto the proper surface you have chosen when your mycelium is healthy.
Your mycelium will be hard to break-up upon taping your jars lightly onto one of the surfaces mentioned above when your mycelium is infected with contamination. 

Another common cause of mycelial stall-age is improper gas exchange provided to your colonizing mycelium.

Not enough information is provided into your method of "birthing" your cakes to make a proper diognosis of why personally you can't get your cakes to fruit.
What are the measures/steps you take to introduce your cakes into fruiting conditions?
There may be several reasons you can get your jars to colonize but aren't able to get them to fruit.

You don't want to place any air moving devices directly into your fruiting chamber.
That'll dry out your cakes as well as fuck up your relative humidity inside of your fruiting chamber, dramatically decreasing it.

A PROPERLY CONSTRUCTED! Shotgun Terrarium will hold ample amounts of relitave humidity and fresh air exchange with a daily regimen of misting then fanning 3-6 times daily, depending on the relative humidity of your region's climate.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: nootch]
    #13724955 - 01/03/11 01:49 PM (13 years, 27 days ago)

Quote:

I wrapped it for an hr and the findings are 85% RH ! not sure what else to do ?




You can throw that "RH meter" you have in the trash or play "RH meter baseball with it.
The reason I say that is because it's most likely a cheap digital humidity reader.
Constructed in China, purchased from your local chain department store, not worth the plastic that houses the components. 

What's your fruiting chamber?
Most fruiting fruiting chambers designed per the tek, coupled with a proper regimen of misting then fanning, hold proper levels of relative humidity.
You'll also need to keep your fruiting area within idea fruiting temperature ranges, 70-72F.
A little lower than 70, such as 65F is ok.
You won't see contamination in exchange for an increased fruiting time.
Colder temperature ranges of the proper fruiting temperature ranges produce a meatier fruit.

An example of fruiting chambers that, designed per the tek'll hold proper humidity are;
Ohmatic style monotubs, Shotgun Terrarium fruiting chambers, and mono/mini-mono shutgun hybrid, or mono/mini-mono monotub hybrid, dubtubs, ect.
Do a search of the forums using the various different fruting chambers fore-mentioned.


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Edited by liquidmyce (01/03/11 01:56 PM)


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: nootch]
    #13852786 - 01/26/11 09:31 AM (13 years, 4 days ago)

Quote:

Javadog said:
24 hours is the upper limit for suggested soak times.

Longer soak times can allow the bacteria to cycle back around.

Good luck,

JD



This is mainly correct. 

Endospores begin to germinate just 2 hours into the soak, multiplying every two hours off into however long said cultivator allows the soak period to continue for.  After 24 hours of a soaking period, it's very easy to have more endospore germination at the end of the soak then germinated from the seed/grain at the beginning of the soak.

Bearing in mind said logic fore-mentioned is why I rinse my grain, again, after the initial rinse and soak period.  Coupling any grain preparation with a 10 minute flash boil allows for grains to become properly hydrated with in as little a soak time as 4 hours.  That's one of the various reasons why it's prescribed by experienced cultivators that you couple grain preparation with a 10 minute flash boil.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: SoftestVoice]
    #13883815 - 01/31/11 06:50 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

Order your spores from nowhere else but Sporeworks.
Mention you're a member of the shrommery community in the comment box upon checking out.
When you mention you're a member of the shroomery community upon checking out, they'll send you a freebie.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: stephen69]
    #13906236 - 02/04/11 04:39 PM (12 years, 11 months ago)

Whoa, take it easy there big guy.  Slow down a little bit. 

It's in bad form to discuss growing active mushrooms for profit, against site rules, and illegal.  Please be more mindful and respectful about what you'r posting and where you'r posting it.  Have a good day, sir


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: 13shrooms]
    #14118106 - 03/14/11 04:23 AM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

13shrooms said:
you want horticulture grade verm and you can substitute dark rye flour or blend/grind up wild bird seed into flour,  pretty much any whole grain will work ground into flour. :thumbup:



This is very true. 
"Grinding your own" (and I'm going to coin that phrase, damnit!) grain flour is superior to buying already ground, brown rice flour in bags. 
Rice bran is also a cheaper, superior alternative to ground pre-ground and bagged, brown rice flour.

A grain's husk is where most of the grain's nutrition is located.
Grinding your own grain into flour and buying rice bran are more nutritious due to the fact that the grain's husk isn't removed.
Rice bran can also be purchased in 40-50 pound bags for 30-40 dollars. 

 
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/12714294#12714294
https://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/12771785#12771785


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: newgrower1]
    #14118119 - 03/14/11 04:33 AM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Quote:

newgrower1 said:
Great they have whole grain wheat flour I suppose this would work then.  I guess ill have to find something other then verm? My first time growing and just dont want any problems lol



Quote:

newgrower1 said:
Also I am growing 36 pint jars wish 1 cc each of B+ strain in optimum conditions(and hopefully optimum materials) anyone know about what this will yeild. I know it varies due to multi spore inoculation but does anyone have a rough idea.




Source Vermiculite.


Fine vermiculite is not exclusively needed.


Coarse and medium-coarse vermiculite work great.


My personal favorite being medium grade vermiculite.


Seeing as how this is your first grow and you'v already stated you don't want any problems.


Don't deviate from the original teks, especially on your first few go-arounds, at least.


Being that your inoculations are MS, there's really no way to tell how much they'll yield.


One thing that you can control that will have an affect on your yield is climate/environment.


The closer to ideal conditions for fruiting you can constantly provide for your fruiting cakes, the more they will yield.


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Re: The Shroomery and mushroom cultivation, a newcomers guide. [Re: biologys]
    #14136829 - 03/17/11 01:35 PM (12 years, 10 months ago)

Forget that assclown.


Don't stoop to his level and embark on flaming.


That comment's not worth the band-width it takes to be responded too.\


Mods please delete the last 4-5 posts.


:vaped:


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Re: newbie - substrate and spores growing like crazy [Re: misfit78] * 1
    #14305897 - 04/17/11 12:02 PM (12 years, 9 months ago)

Yessir.  Use a regular meat thermometer to gauge the manure from the center of the materials, holding the temperature for an hour and a half when the thermometer reads between 140-160F.


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