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Offlinesickb0y
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RR's FC tek
    #8697250 - 07/29/08 12:28 PM (15 years, 7 months ago)

hey i had a few questions after reading a little about what RR said about his FC tek involving drilling holes in the chamber under the perlite. sorry if this was answered already but i couldnt find it anywhere..
how many holes do you drill in your chamber? do you do this on the bottom and top only or also on the sides? is this enough for air exchange or should i also use a fish tank air pump? i was also worried about my humidity level if i was to drill holes in my terrarium. will it still be at an optimal level with some humidity escaping from the holes?


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see the son of god is comin' up and there is a likeness
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Offlinejust me
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: sickb0y]
    #8697283 - 07/29/08 12:37 PM (15 years, 7 months ago)

506 holes :lol:

drill on 6 sides. add em up.

yes. thats the way the FC was designed.

make sure your holes arent huge. maybe 3/16"

and fan and mist daily as well


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"The Downfall of Mankind; is Believing He Has Limitations."

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OfflineCyco
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: just me]
    #8697452 - 07/29/08 01:14 PM (15 years, 7 months ago)

I'm still a noob. But if you want to be sure, you can try to test run your FC.
Put as much Perlite in it as you would with cakes and start with, less holes. If your FC can keep the desired Rh (for 1-3 Days) you can try to drill some more holes till you are happy with it. I would also fan a few times a Day to make It more realistic.

I think its hard to tell cause there aren't many Containers (and size of the holes/perlite volume/room conditions) that are exactly the same and this could change the Rh on a few % that could make the difference.

But i have no experience with Perlite, as i heard its pretty easy to keep high Rh, if you leave some room under the FC, and have a decent amount of Perlite in it.

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Offlinejust me
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: Cyco]
    #8697673 - 07/29/08 02:06 PM (15 years, 7 months ago)

excellent advice.

most growers do do this anyway, getting anxious to have everything up and running they build their FC's while they wait for jars to colonize. and in doing so, they test their rh.

this is also a good time IMO to use a h202/water solution to mist the sides and perlite heavily, just a personal preference i suppose.

but after you realize how easily that rh stays where it needs to be with proper fanning and misting, the hygrometer becomes nearly obsolete


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OfflinewarGOD
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: just me]
    #8697718 - 07/29/08 02:18 PM (15 years, 7 months ago)

im pretty sure that RR said on his site to use 6mm drill bit, this should help, RR's Terrarium Tek  http://www.mushroomvideos.com/Terrarium-Tek ; all the answers you need are there! Good Luck!

for sum reasons it says its not there but just click on the left side "fruiting chamber"


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Mush Love

Edited by warGOD (07/29/08 02:31 PM)

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Offlinejust me
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: warGOD]
    #8697727 - 07/29/08 02:20 PM (15 years, 7 months ago)

how big is 6 mm...bout the same isnt it?


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OfflinewarGOD
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: just me]
    #8697764 - 07/29/08 02:29 PM (15 years, 7 months ago)

6mm = 1/4"


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Offlinebootedboy
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: warGOD]
    #8697906 - 07/29/08 02:53 PM (15 years, 7 months ago)

The way it works with all the holes is the FAE. The increased amount of FAE, due to the holes, passes over the wet perlite and causes it to wick moisture into the air. Starting your fruiting chamber early is an excellent idea. I  start mine about a week in advance.


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OfflineSeeker_22
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: bootedboy]
    #8698163 - 07/29/08 03:39 PM (15 years, 7 months ago)

What would be more efficient? 1/4 or 1/2 inch holes? :confused:

edit: nvm 1/4 inch fo sho!


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Edited by Seeker_22 (07/29/08 03:40 PM)

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Offlinejust me
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: Seeker_22]
    #8700855 - 07/30/08 03:50 AM (15 years, 7 months ago)

sorry. a 1/16 off :lol::hug:


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-pEaCeLoVeGoDbLeSs-

"The Downfall of Mankind; is Believing He Has Limitations."

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Invisibletripchip
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: bootedboy]
    #8700881 - 07/30/08 04:16 AM (15 years, 7 months ago)

Quote:

bootedboy said:
The way it works with all the holes is the FAE. The increased amount of FAE, due to the holes, passes over the wet perlite and causes it to wick moisture into the air. Starting your fruiting chamber early is an excellent idea. I  start mine about a week in advance.




never thought of it that way. wicks moisture in to the air.. very well explained. thanks! :thumbup:

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Offlineskaterickets
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: sickb0y]
    #8701437 - 07/30/08 09:58 AM (15 years, 7 months ago)

One other thing, RR recommends drilling holes on every side. I don't drill holes in the bottom, or at the bottom of the sides to allow more humidity to reach the cakes, but that's just what works for me.
Anything from 1/4-/1/2 inch should work fine. The bigger the holes the less, and the less holes the more fanning.

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OfflineMad River
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Re: RR's FC tek [Re: skaterickets]
    #8701470 - 07/30/08 10:09 AM (15 years, 7 months ago)

Quote:

Roger Rabbit at RR's mushroomvideos.com - Terrarium Tek
said:

Shotgun Terrarium Theory of Operation

The theory of operation for the shotgun mushroom fruiting chamber is that natural air currents travel from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure. Cool air has the molecules closer together than warm air, thus cool air is at a slightly higher pressure than warm air. When we put several inches of damp perlite in the bottom of our terrarium, we create an area with a slightly cooler temperature than the air above, which is exposed to lights that create heat, and our mushroom substrates, which are often at up to a few degrees warmer than the surrounding air due to thermogenesis.

Add 3 to 5 Inches of Well Drained Perlite to Terrarium

This temperature differential, however slight, results in enough of a pressure gradient that it causes air to flow up through the perlite, absorbing moisture as it travels, and into the relatively lower pressure air within the fruiting portion of our fruiting chamber. This air then exits through the holes in the upper section of the terrarium, carrying the excessive CO2 produced by our mycelium out with it. With this design, no electrical or mechanical equipment is required. Regular misting helps to keep our brf cakes or other substrates moist, and also serves to replace the moisture that evaporates from the perlite.

When using this system, drill holes as shown in the pictures and video clip on all six sides. I use a 1/4" (6mm) drill bit. Use of a larger drill bit is not recommended. It must be remembered that a 1/2" hole has four times the area of a 1/4" hole. (A 12 mm hole has four times the area of a 6 mm hole) If the holes are too large, your terrarium will not be able to maintain the high humidity necessary for growing mushrooms.

This system also requires an ambient humidity in your house of 50% or above, which incidentally will ensure your own comfort as well. In desert climates, and especially in cold climates during the winter months, indoor humidity is often very low. If you get shocked from touching another person, or a light switch, etc., after walking across the carpet in your home, it means your humidity is too low. The answer is to run a cool mist humidifier 24/7 in your home. Moist air holds heat much better than dry air, so you'll actually lower your utility bills by doing so. If you'll ensure that the humidity in your growing room is at least 50%, this design terrarium will easily maintain 95% humidity on the inside where your mushrooms need it.

Of course, it should go without saying that for this system to work properly, the terrarium must be elevated at least 1" above the table it's sitting on. Use blocks of wood, shot glasses, or whatever you have around the house to raise the terrarium off the table so air can circulate under it. It should also be noted that 90% of all airborne contaminants in a room are located near the floor, so make sure your terrarium has a home on a table or shelf.




Click on the link to go to RR's site.
Good luck. :tongue::thumbup:

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