The Learner

So he has built a Phase II steam composter factory into the size of a styrofoam cooler. Stamets put together a Phase II steamer using a semi-trucks trailer as the container just to give you an impression of the scale. In actuality this is not just a Phase II but kind of does/skips Phase I composting. I scammed the info from psychonaut I believe. I did some massive editing on the document fixing the english and getting almost all the errors out of have now assembled a massively cool composter that will deliver Sterile Industry Quality Mushroom Compost ready to innoculate in 6 to 7 days!

I had most parts so I spent 18 bux on a Vicks Vaporizer "Pure Steam Action for the Relief of Cold & Flu Symptoms" and went to the local lab supply and got a long stem thermometer for 9 bux that can go all the way up to 500 degrees F, and has dual markings in F and C. Oh and of course 2 bux on a styrofoam cooler... I already got the wire mesh/chicken wire laying around and I have a dimmer wall switch lying around but am going to try without it since most of the composting is done with full power to the warm/hot steam vaporizer.

LEARNERS NOTES

Bacteria: (100-170F). Different species of bacteria thrive througout this range so an optimum cannot be given. At temperatures above 130F bacteria dominate and are responsible for the ammonification that occurs at these temperatures. The most common bacteria found are Pseudomonas species.
Actinomycetes: (115-140F). With an optimum temperature range of 125-132F. The most common species are found in the genera Streptomycetes and Thermomonospora. Actinomycetes and bacteria are mutually stimulatory, resulting in greater efficiency when working together.
Fungi: (110-130F). With an optimum temperature range of 118-122F. Common genera are Humicola and Torula. Research indicates these are the most efficient de-ammonifiers, which has led to a more general use of their temperature range in Phase II composting.

The goal is to eliminate amonia based nitrates and residual carbohydrates!

Here is my shroomery tek'ified version of the Shit Composter:

The construction of the composter utilizes a styrofoam cooler, preferably one close to 14 inches by 22 inches by 15 inches deep in size. Six 3/4" holes, evenly spaced across the surface of the lid, are melted with a soldering iron or cut with a knife. Six more holes of the same size are melted or cut into the body of the cooler, three along each side, two inches up from the bottom edge. On the short sides of the cooler body, one hole is cut or melted on each side at the bottom edge. One of these holes is sized 1/2", and will serve for drainage. The other end has a hole cut just the right size to accommodate the steam output head or nozzle of the steam humidifier.

The bottom of the cooler is lined with aluminum foil, being careful to not obstruct the drain or steam inlet. A screen support is made from the 1/4" or 1/8"-mesh screen (sometimes called hardware cloth). The screen is cut 8 inches larger than the dimensions of the bottom of the cooler. 4 inches of screen are folded 90? at each edge to form supports, which hold the surface of the screen 4 inches above the bottom. The compost sits on the top surface of the screen so that the steam can flow evenly underneath the compost. This screen support should fit the bottom of the cooler without large gaps around the edges.

A single-pole solid-state dimmer is used to control the humidifier power. Good wiring and insulating procedures need to be followed. If you aren't knowledgeable about wiring, find someone who can help. It is important for safety that the wiring be correctly installed. The best method is to wire the dimmer switch (in a plastic electrical switch box) to both the power-cord of the humidifier (cut off the plug end[male]). Then take an extension cord (cut off the plug end[female]) and wire it to the dimmer switch.

Things to check for:

To begin a compost run:

Mix in a bucket, approximately 2 and 1/2-gallons of shredded straw with 1 gallon shredded dry fresh manure (cow or horse). Mix in 3 to 4 ounces cottonseed meal or 1 to 2 ounces blood meal (nitrogen sources, available at most plant nurseries). Add 3 and 1/2-quarts of hot water, preferably with a sprayer, and mix thoroughly. This warm mixture is loaded into the cooler without delay, loosely filling the cooler to within 1 to 2 inches of the top. Five sticks are placed in the cooler before adding the compost mixture, so that after the compost is loaded, 2-inch square ventilation shafts can be created by wiggling each of the sticks around. The sticks are withdrawn, and the lid put in place, all the vent holes are taped shut except the one on the lid furthest from the steam nozzle, and the dimmer set on maximum. The thermometer is placed through the untaped hole so that it is measuring the middle of the compost.

During the first phase of the run pasteurization occurs, killing all insect life. Note that this is opposite of how it is done at a commercial mushroom farm or in outdoor nature composting, where pasteurization is done at the end of a composting run. After about 2 hours of full power steaming, the temperature should rise to approximately 65? C (60? to 70?). Quoted temperatures are only a rough guide, try to maintain the temperatures within the given ranges. For this first phase it is necessary to reach a minimum of 60? C. Once the temperature reaches 60? C check the time and let the compost remain above 60? C. for 3 to 4 hours.

At the end of this time remove all the tape from the ventilation holes and leave the dimmer setting on full. Within a day ammonia will be noticeable in the exhaust steam and the temperature should be 55 to 65? C. Hold this temperature for 2 to 3 days. After the first day the ammonia odor should disappear. After this happens, white fire fang, or actinomycete fungi, will be apparent in the compost. It is best to allow the compost run to proceed undisturbed, but if you wish to check it is okay to briefly lift the lid and move the compost surface. Don't allow the compost to cool during any brief investigations. At the end of the 3 days actinomycete should be prominent and there should be no ammonia smell. If not, extend the high temperature phase for up to an additional day.

The dimmer setting is now lowered slowly so that the compost temperature drops 2? to 3? every 2 to 3 hours, until a temperature around 50?C is reached (45? to 55?). The compost is then held at this lower temperature for 3 to 4 days. At the end of this time the power is turned off and the compost is allowed to cool slowly inside the closed cooler. It is ready to lay out and spawn when the temperature cools to 24? to 28?C. It is best to spawn the compost immediately after it has cooled, although it can be stored for a few weeks if necessary.

The compost made in this way is usually excellent, comparable to the best commercial mushroom farm compost. An added benefit is that new compost recipes can be experimented with in small quantities and in short time frames. One extra is that the drain water makes an exceptional organic fertilizer for houseplants.

Notes:
1. The formula for compost here is very basic. With trial and error many materials can be formulated into usable compost. In particular, it is important to mix for the correct carbon / nitrogen ratio (saccharides / protein). Any properly balanced mixture suitable for large scale composting is suitable for use in this composter. Very useful tables of compost ingredients are included in The Mushroom Cultivator and Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms, both by Paul Stamets.
2. Some species of mushrooms culture well on ordinary pasteurized straw with no additions. This composter is ideal to pasteurize straw. It is much simpler and more accurate than immersion in hot water or other methods. Just load with shredded dried straw and pasteurize at greater than 60? for 4 to 6 hours. Allow to cool slowly covered, and spawn when the temperature is less than 28?C. Typically the straw will be at proper moisture content when unloaded.

The Learner
Deranged Scientist,
King of Shit!

[This message has been edited by The Learner (edited April 18, 2000).]

------------------
"Today is only yesterdays
tommorow"- Uriah Heep

Worshipping
Hmm well not on weekdays I'm really busy, I will probably be out Saturdays dancing, so If God permits and would like to share Sundays then it is fine by me. Nah I need no worship... Just overgrow the world with cubies, panaeolus' and other dung loving psilocybes and you will have paid me patronage enough... long live the shrooms!

I am serious yo!

[This message has been edited by The Learner (edited April 18, 2000).]

READ IT AND WEEP CHILDREN!

Witness the power to what real mushroom compost can do!

Paul Stamets is my hero!

The Learner
Deranged Scientist,
The King of Shit

------------------
"I think of myself as an intelligent, sensitive human being with the soul of a clown which always forces me to blow it at the most important moments." J.M.

Northern Touch Spores

I just thought I would mention that this file originated from "Oily discharge". He posted it a few months back, and said that it could be freely copied. I reposted it here about a month ago, without permission, attributing it to his nickname.

I think it is great for so many people to be freely sharing info. Since I have reposted this once, I wanted to make sure props go out to all concerned. Of course, with all the nicknames it is hard to tell who is who.

I built one of these a few weeks ago. I haven't done any compost or pasturized straw with it, but I have done a couple loads of wood chip pasturized. Works good, the chips go in dry and come out a few hours later with good moisture. I have shiitake growing on it now, so I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

[This message has been edited by Doktor Dung (edited April 20, 2000).]

"Growing Wild Mushrooms" by Bob Harris?

Taken straight out of that book....

I thought I scammed the original info from Psychonaut but the mention of OilyDischarge is familiar though, I think I got my incubation chamber info instead from Psychonaut.

I got my info from a web site and it was the most horrible english in my life of reading I had to re-write every paragraph in the instructions to the state of what I posted. I will try and have to find this harris book again so I can dig up the pages and read his writing style. The original I got it from was way out of date. Like written in the 60's or early 70's because all the pricing/cost structures were messed up and basically it costs almost twice as much if not more to make the composter in todays dollars than the original document. The original information if is Harris' idea needs props to him, if he just borrowed it from someone else then props to the original guy. I modernized it with pricing and brand names of today and added the compost temperature zones with different micro-organisims that will grow and what they do so its all in one place and one document. That I think is helpfull to everyone here so I posted it.

ThE JafF

All the pix I've seen of this set-up are outdoors. Does anybody think that it would pose contamination concerns if done in the same house (not neccessarily same room, but possibly) as cultivation? I know the main bacterias are relatively benign, but what about the fire fang? Or the fungi? It's just that the thing would look really odd on the porch of an apartment.

------------------
-From a registered Mad Scientist

"From a certain point of view"
-Jedi Master Obiwan Kenobi (also a Mad Scientist tm)

You are going to be pumping through a lot of steam. 15 hours of operation on a modern vicks pure steam vaporizer will chew up 1.5 gallons of water.

In one week of operation you would add enough condensation to your apartment to have all sorts of things growing on your walls

Fire Fang is a benign indicator species. It tells you your compost is done and it also mingles with the mushroom mycelium helping the mycelium gather nutrients and grow. In other words it increases the growth rate of your mycelium through the substrate cutting down colinization times and causing some kick ass fruitings. As Martha Stuart says, "...it's a good thing..."

It wouldn't look out of place on your porch IMHO

re JaFF: I try to keep up to date looking for any myco-books at the local bookstores. Something in the Harris book didn't make be bite the hook but I can't put my finger on what it was. The writing style, maybe it didn't have enough new or interesting information to make be go for it. I already have all three of Stamets books, TMC-GGMW-PMW, so there's not much out there that tickles my fancy except maybe one day I'll get off my ass and get a really good photo/field guide to all mushrooms and something that goes into major depth on identification and classification techniques.

[This message has been edited by The Learner (edited April 24, 2000).]

ThE JafF

------------------
Away!

------------------
Away!

------------------
-From a registered Mad Scientist

"From a certain point of view"
-Jedi Master Obiwan Kenobi (also a Mad Scientist tm)

I still think the porch idea would be good.. could surround the vicks unit with lots of little potted plants and cactii.. and whats wrong with telling the neighbords you are making compost for all your little plants, maybe buy an orchard and tell them you are some wierrd orchid nut who needs sterile soil at a certain level of decomposition to grow your rare and priced south african teetsi orchard

The photograph is mine from my forthcoming Book.

mjshroomer

The Learner
Deranged Scientist,
King of Shit

I prefer the Vicks WarmMist vaporizer. Its non metal carbon based elements run longest without cleaning (150 hours) and the unit has a safety feature (automatic shut off if the water runs out)...

I can consider this type of project pretty low on the difficulty totem pole. Give it a try without adding a dimmer switch or modifying the power cord on the steamer unit. Just buy a cooler, the Vicks WarmMist, cut a hole in the cooler foam for the Vicks steam nozzle unit to fit through and steam Hay and Steam Wood Bark.... save compost for when you do get around to modifying the power.

National Semiconductor provides a lot of temperature sensors and DACs, application notes, and all sorts of goodies for the electronically inclined shroomerite to put together a temperature controlled AC power switch. Just like your oven, turns on when temperature is below X and turns off when temperature goes above Y, but works in the lower temp ranges with the accuracy we need to work with.

Of course you can do the brain dead old school technique of just running the steam through xyz length of copper tubing to conduct away a lot of the temperature before piping it into the styrofoam cooler.

The Learner
Too god damn busy,
to do shit for a while.

[This message has been edited by The Learner (edited May 03, 2000).]

Edited by MNmyc on 03/31/01 03:52 AM.

Edited by Humidity on 03/31/01 02:12 PM.

Edited by MNmyc on 04/01/01 11:36 PM.