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Demetri
Minion


Registered: 02/04/08
Posts: 9
Loc: F-Mod, Max.Sec.
Last seen: 14 years, 9 months
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Gypsum, Limestone, Oyster shell.
#8026126 - 02/15/08 07:42 AM (15 years, 11 months ago) |
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Limestone and oyster shells are calcium carbonate and gypsum is calcium sulphate. All seem to me to be similar, so my question or comment is wouldn't it be beneficial to use all 3 in both the substrate and casing? The sub. for nutrients and casing for ph. among others. What do you think?
-------------------- YOU,.. talkin to ME!! I don't see anyone else here.. R.D. T.D.
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Civ
Pinning



Registered: 10/14/04
Posts: 2,537
Loc: California
Last seen: 6 months, 17 days
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Re: Gypsum, Limestone, Oyster shell. [Re: Demetri]
#8026255 - 02/15/08 08:43 AM (15 years, 11 months ago) |
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I think if search the search engine you will find your answer 100x fold. This question is here everyday.
If you do not understand how to use a search function for some reason, let us know, and well help you out.
Search your questions first, they are already answered 99 times outa 100.
-------------------- "...Gal's seem to hate the thought of blending chicken shit in a blender. So, wash it well afterwards & DON'T tell them..." -Agar
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Demetri
Minion


Registered: 02/04/08
Posts: 9
Loc: F-Mod, Max.Sec.
Last seen: 14 years, 9 months
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Re: Gypsum, Limestone, Oyster shell. [Re: Civ]
#8030166 - 02/16/08 05:02 AM (15 years, 11 months ago) |
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I have used the search engine and it still does not answer the question whether to use all 3 in both sub. and casing. Thanks for any input.
-------------------- YOU,.. talkin to ME!! I don't see anyone else here.. R.D. T.D.
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blood4blood
Calmer Than You Are


Registered: 04/25/07
Posts: 6,029
Loc: The Valley
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Re: Gypsum, Limestone, Oyster shell. [Re: Demetri]
#8030442 - 02/16/08 08:35 AM (15 years, 11 months ago) |
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if limestone and oyster shels are the same thing then why would you use both of them?
keep lime and oyster shells out of your substrate. you can add gypsum to your sub at 10%
add lime to your casing at 1 tsp per cup of peat. or 5% of your total peat moss.
and add gypsum to your casing at 1 tbs per cp of peat. or 10% of your total peat moss.
its written in these threads over and over again though brother
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Prisoner#1
Even Dumber ThanAdvertized!


Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 193,665
Loc: Pvt. Pubfag NutSuck
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Re: Gypsum, Limestone, Oyster shell. [Re: blood4blood]
#8030456 - 02/16/08 08:42 AM (15 years, 11 months ago) |
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Quote:
blood4blood said: and add gypsum to your casing at 1 tbs per cp of peat. or 10% of your total peat moss.
also add gypsum to grains, it helps to prevent 'over wetting' which leads to bacterial contams
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blood4blood
Calmer Than You Are


Registered: 04/25/07
Posts: 6,029
Loc: The Valley
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Re: Gypsum, Limestone, Oyster shell. [Re: Prisoner#1]
#8030465 - 02/16/08 08:46 AM (15 years, 11 months ago) |
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yup forgot about that.
i belive RR suggests 1 tbs per 1 gallon of soak water.
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Prisoner#1
Even Dumber ThanAdvertized!


Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 193,665
Loc: Pvt. Pubfag NutSuck
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Re: Gypsum, Limestone, Oyster shell. [Re: blood4blood]
#8030472 - 02/16/08 08:48 AM (15 years, 11 months ago) |
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I always use 1 tsp per pound of grain (dry) in the soak water, too much or too little wont make a significant difference but it certainly does help to have it
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blood4blood
Calmer Than You Are


Registered: 04/25/07
Posts: 6,029
Loc: The Valley
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Re: Gypsum, Limestone, Oyster shell. [Re: Prisoner#1]
#8030481 - 02/16/08 08:51 AM (15 years, 11 months ago) |
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ive never done a soak w/o gypsum. but my grains always turn out awesome. after i pc you can roll the jar and they will just fall over eachother.
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dumbfounded1600
Stranger

Registered: 07/29/07
Posts: 2,624
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Re: Gypsum, Limestone, Oyster shell. [Re: blood4blood]
#8030669 - 02/16/08 10:11 AM (15 years, 11 months ago) |
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I use a small handful of gypsum in my grain soak...Lime is also AGGRESSIVE against contaminants.
Lime is not a buffer. Gypsum is an excellent buffer. Contaminants do not like high ph which hydrated(water soluable) lime contributes. Limestone is for long term use, such as in a garden. Casings, which flush for a month or so do not need long term ph adjustment. They need short term, therefore hydrated lime is what you would want to use.
Actually, you want hydrated garden lime because ground limestone takes too long to break down and go to work. Hydrated lime is water soluable and goes to work right away. A combination of hydrated lime and gypsum is the best way to buffer a casing layer. The most critical time for contaminants to enter a casing is during the initial colonization and first flush stages. Once the layer is fully colonized, it's very contaminant resistant. Hydrated lime and gypsum protect your casing layer during this critical early stage, where ground limestone or other buffers that take weeks or even months to break down do not. RR
Edited by dumbfounded1600 (02/16/08 10:22 AM)
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