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OfflineBarakaZulu
Silent Walker


Registered: 04/07/07
Posts: 46
Loc: Darkest Afrika
Last seen: 15 years, 11 months
LC, manure and grain data points for everybody...
    #7987240 - 02/06/08 03:18 PM (15 years, 11 months ago)

Even though I'm not impressed with my fruiting yet, I have made quite a few useful observations that can benefit n00bs and others.

MAKE A GLOVEBOX.
Seriously, I had 10% success with my grain jars and now I have 100%. There are plenty of techs for building them, and if you don't have one, you are wasting a lot of time and effort. I fill a generic spray bottle with 99% isopropyl (91% if that's all you can find at the drugstore) and put it in the box. When everything is in the box for my operation, I spray it every which way and wait 30 minutes before I start working. Since implementing this, I have literally done 100 jars and not one of them had contams.


MAKE DECENT JAR LIDS WITH SILICON AND TYVEK
It's very easy - you drill two 1/8" holes about 1 inch apart. Cut 1/2" square peices of tyvek and make little rings of silicon around one hole. Stick on your tyvek and squish it down with something round and flat. Make sure that you don't use too much glue and have it squish over the hole. Now do the hershey's kiss thing with silicon over the other hole. If you sand and clean around the hole first, your glob will bot fall off for many many cycles.


LIQUID CULTURE
I tried agar mixes, malt extract, karo and honey and by far the simplest, cheapest and best was a very weak honey solution. Not 4 grams per 100 milliliters like so many resources say, but rather 2 grams per 100 milliliters. 2% instead of 4% is weak, but the solution should be clear and there should be no sugar left for contams to grow on after about 2 weeks. Colonization should take 10 days at 80 deg F with 3 swirls per day.


PREPPING GRAIN
All of the advice here about rinsing repeatedly is good, however, you can take a short cut. I soak for no more than 24 hours - sometimes only 12 - and rinse every few hours. The real trick is to simmer the grain and load the jars THEN let them sit for 12 hours before you P-cook them.

It does little good to rinse in the name of cleanliness when the grain is just going to pick up more contamination while kicking around your kitchen. Once sealed in the jars, however, it gives contams a chance to germinate and become more succeptable to cooking. No NEW contams will be getting in, though. I feel like this has contributed to my 100% success rate with jars.

SYRINGES
One small note about this... If you rinse out your old spore syringes with hydrogen peroxide, fill them with water and wrap them in tinfoil, they will survive multiple PCings at 15 psi with no degridation.

INNOCULATING WITH LC
I use 5cc (out of a 10cc syringe) to strike a balance between colonization speed and convenience. Shake the living piss out of the jars (one in each hand makes it easier) for at least 30 seconds and then never shake them again. The reason for this is that if you have a contamination, it will still be just one speck right after inoculation. If you come along and shake the jars after a couple of days, it may have grown and get spread around, which is bad. Healthy mycelium surrounding just one speck will close it off and eat it pretty quick, though.

Jars do bugger all for 3 days then FOOM! they are done in another 4 or 5.


HORSE MANURE
This part gave me fits until I understood just how little water you want in the manure. If you dried it out bone dry, you would typically add only 130% by weight to rehydrate. So for 6 lb of dry manure, you add 8 pounds of water or 4 quarts. It DOES vary, but not enough to justify how much all of the old-timers avoid answering this question. I searched for DAYS to try and find an answer.

To spawn, I use LOTS of grain - 4 quarts in a 4 gallon pan with about 3 gallons of hydrated manure - so that's 33%. I get full colonization in 6 days.

Make sure there is some airflow to the spawned manure. If ind that covering the pan with tin foil and poking a lot of little holes works very well. Also incubate to 75 deg and keep an eye on the temp of the actual manure as it will generate it's own heat and you want to keep it below 85 deg F. If you stack them or cover them to keep out light, you will see temps go over 100 very quickly, which is bad.


Hope this helps a few people


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Offlinelovingtickels
wit a engineringdegre wo neds tono how 2 spel


Registered: 04/10/07
Posts: 220
Loc: North or South America
Last seen: 11 years, 10 months
Re: LC, manure and grain data points for everybody... [Re: BarakaZulu]
    #7987271 - 02/06/08 03:24 PM (15 years, 11 months ago)

i think i agree on your the simplicity of your observations. simple ideas for those lost in the sea of opinion. and good ideas at that. i think i might have learned somthething


--------------------
I never guess. It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle

Mistakes are a part of being human. Appreciate your mistakes for what they are: precious life lessons that can only be learned the hard way. Unless it's a fatal mistake, which, at least, others can learn from.
- Al Franken


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