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Offlineabrelosojos
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Registered: 05/18/05
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back n2 it
    #7940379 - 01/27/08 01:44 PM (16 years, 5 days ago)

I've grown some good things in the past.
Shroomery was my teacher, I owe kudos.

It's been awhile since I've gotten around to trying out mycology experiments and I got so many ideas soaked up I'm just stumbling to apply them right now.

Few jars of colonized WBS, CoCoCoir, this Jiffy mix that says it's Ph'ed already.

I want to make a few small casings, but just want a good tip on how to incorporate all this. I know the search function works but there's always some variations I gotta approximate and I'm a little burnt out.

Even just a few interesting threads that have helped any of you guys out with the same materials, would be appreciated. I want to get my shit together without revisitin some of the old fuck ups when I used to case.


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Registered: 05/29/03
Posts: 2,459
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Re: back n2 it [Re: abrelosojos]
    #7941032 - 01/27/08 03:54 PM (16 years, 5 days ago)

Quote:

scatmanrav said:
You must have a nutritous substrate. Poo will give the best yields, grain can do solid flushes too. You must also lay a nice 1.5-2" thick substrate, to have a nice solid network. Using poo, coir, fluffy verm and perlite, you can get a fluffy substrate with a nice rhizo network that will move nutrients and water to your mushrooms well..its like the mushrooms root system compared to a plant..you want nice airey nutrious soil to give a good root structure. With mushrooms you also want fiberous, since thats how they spread on networks.

Then you need a good casing layer. Coir/verm/buffer can work, but I much prefer peat/verm/buffer, with a little coir and perlite thrown in (aobut 10% of each). You want to use CHUNKY verm too, otherwise you'll want more perlite and less verm, you need the big balls for aeration of the substrate and drainage to let the water get down into the casing layer so your using all of it, and not just the top cm that your misting. Having powdered oyster shells in to buffer is a big plus whether using coir based or peat based casings, but with peat its needed and more is needed (5% by volume, to peat).

Then a fairly even substrate layer (not sloped ect) and a casing layer that is LIGHTLY sprinkled on (NOT dumped in the middle, compacting it, then spreading it out) slowly and evenly applied, and even to the substrate (not the ground, the casing layer should have slight hills and vallies that match the substrate if there are any). Then incubate until myc starts poking up in about 20 different spots. If its even, birth it, if not, patch it to make it even, then birth it. This part takes experience but it should look something like this:


Then a few days later UNDER GOOD conditions (also important to the pinset), most important being CONSTANT fresh air exchanges, good bright light is also important, then you get pins:


Laying tin foil in the bottom of the container helps alot too, the substrate fuses to the foil, and the foil shrinks with the substrate eliminating side pinning. And never compact your substrate (except straw) and never compact your casing layer. Always sprinkle instead of pouring.




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