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dannysmiff
Stranger
Registered: 09/16/07
Posts: 9
Last seen: 15 years, 11 months
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Bird Seed!
#7831408 - 01/04/08 10:11 AM (16 years, 28 days ago) |
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Hi Everyone. Im having a go at different ways of growing mushrooms, Iv got the PF-Tek sorted, done liquid culture..
Now im trying bird seed. My jars are slowly colonising but its been 3 weeks and only a very small amount of the bird seed has colonised. The bird seed looks moist and the temperature is right, does this method normally take longer? Im using B+ Strain...
Thanks Guys x
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Fraggin
Multi-Faceted



Registered: 01/05/05
Posts: 8,707
Last seen: 8 years, 3 days
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I have had problems on my last wbs batch. I have always soaked for 24 hours, rinsed, loaded, then pc'd.
I have jars going on 1 month now that have myc here and there, but some areas just don't colonize.
Some say that moisture content inside the kernals has to be right to get a wbs jar to colonize properly. But this is the first time I have ever had problems as well and they sound similar to yours.
I shook mine, wish I hadn't of now. It looks like I'm going to dump the jars into a bowl inside a glove box and sort the colonized clumps from the uncolonized wbs and get enough colonized grain to spawn with.
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dannysmiff
Stranger
Registered: 09/16/07
Posts: 9
Last seen: 15 years, 11 months
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Re: Bird Seed! [Re: Fraggin]
#7831494 - 01/04/08 10:35 AM (16 years, 28 days ago) |
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i have shaken mine aswell. i was thinking of just using the colonised parts to colonise some rice cakes instead? not sure what im gonna do i think ill give it another 2 weeks before i mess about with them.
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RRVideo
Stranger



Registered: 05/18/07
Posts: 106
Loc: Wilderness cabin
Last seen: 15 years, 1 month
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Re: Bird Seed! [Re: Fraggin]
#7831498 - 01/04/08 10:36 AM (16 years, 28 days ago) |
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Properly prepared, sterilized and filtered bird seed or other cereal grains should be fully colonized in two to three weeks maximum. If not, something is wrong, so I'd suggest starting over. Pay very close attention to moisture content. The two things that cause the most stalling of jars, are too wet grains, and lack of gas exchange. Good luck. RR
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Swan Song

Registered: 02/08/06
Posts: 559
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Re: Bird Seed! [Re: RRVideo]
#7831524 - 01/04/08 10:45 AM (16 years, 28 days ago) |
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have you tried loosening the caps on the jars a quarter turn, or are they tight? i thought i read that this can help somewhere before. i have had this happen once before i loosened them a tad, and let them finish and nothing went wrong, but thats not to that it won't.
good luck
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Sillicybin
Registered: 02/14/05
Posts: 2,134
Loc:
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I wouldn't loosen caps on grain jars. A sterile environment is EXTREMELY important on grains because they're such a perfect environment for fungal and bacterial growth. All it takes is one contaminant spore to make it in and you're done.
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Swan Song

Registered: 02/08/06
Posts: 559
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Quote:
Sillicybin said: I wouldn't loosen caps on grain jars. A sterile environment is EXTREMELY important on grains because they're such a perfect environment for fungal and bacterial growth. All it takes is one contaminant spore to make it in and you're done.
True. true.
He said he soaked, rinsed , strained (but for how long?), then PCed...
did he simmer too? maybe the water content is not right?
Just thoughts
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The shroomy 1
Luminous beings surround me




Registered: 03/27/07
Posts: 5,543
Loc: The Aether
Last seen: 5 months, 5 days
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I almost exclusively use Tyvek on top of the lids then screw the band on. In my experience, using tyvek with out the lid and only band dries out the bird seed pretty fast, (especially if your talking about 2 to 3 weeks colonization time. My lids have 4 holes on top. That along with the tyvek provides me with all the gas exchange that I need and keeps contamination out. I just recently spawned 9 quart jars of Ecuador that took 2 weeks to fully colonize. Although, I used a master quart jar to transfer grain to grain, (that could have been a factor on why they colonized so thoroughly and so quickly. Good Luck! (I guess you can say that I think your problem is due to poor gas exchange). Also, it is pretty damn cold down where I'm at. I hope your jars at at least over 65 F.
--------------------
AMU Q&A thread.
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HappyTripping
Tranceformer
Registered: 04/16/06
Posts: 119
Last seen: 14 years, 8 months
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MonterMitch's tek for making lids for grain jars, which I was following just last night, mentions loosening the lid a 1/4 of a turn. I was wondering, What would be the reason for this?
-------------------- (Everything written here is the work or genesis of my best buddy's girlfriend's dog's-friend's cat's owner. If it has been written in the first person, the reason has been for clarity.)
Edited by HappyTripping (01/04/08 01:29 PM)
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DiscoMonsta
Gettin there



Registered: 06/21/09
Posts: 80
Loc: Around
Last seen: 9 years, 2 months
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OK so say a friend of mine noc'd up a few jars of WBS the other day with B+ about say 2 weeks ago and the jars are colonizing with a milky residue over a couple and patches of thick white mycleius growth. I know that B+ is a slow colonizer but i think it may be because of low temps the nights drop below 8 degrees inside however the day rises to about 24 degrees Celsius what would be the most efficient method of keeping at the right temperature i was thinking about a fish tank heater in water in a container below with the jars above in another container or possibly a home brew heat mat but what temp to they stay at? Cheers, will upload his grow log if all goes to plan lol thanks for all input
-------------------- Shit... this joint goes alright eh
  Go Hard As YoU Can 
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DiscoMonsta
Gettin there



Registered: 06/21/09
Posts: 80
Loc: Around
Last seen: 9 years, 2 months
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Bump
-------------------- Shit... this joint goes alright eh
  Go Hard As YoU Can 
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XiC_clone
Calls Shots 'Round Here



Registered: 08/27/02
Posts: 505
Loc: Earth 25XX
Last seen: 1 year, 4 months
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Avoid heating mats, they can easily add too much heat. A simple tup in tup incubator along with a submersible aquarium heater (one that has an adjustable temp nob) should work just fine. Calibrate it to optimal incubation temp with a digi thermo.
-------------------- Don't soak your WBS dummy! There's an =>easy<= way.
For Your Health!
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myco.alchemist
been there ~ done that

Registered: 03/27/10
Posts: 705
Loc:
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Heating mats heat from the bottom up. A heating mat will cause spawn jars to be warmer on the bottom, than top. What that does is cause the moisture content to evaporate out the G/E filter, causing the jars to dry out fairly quickly.
MS innoc to wbs jars takes a bit longer, as spores have to geminate. LC is quicker & G2G is quicker yet. Using LC I get 100 % colonized jars in about 10 to 13 days. G2G in 10 days. MS in 14 or 15 days.
If a jar takes longer than that, I usualy dump them out, because something isn't right & they stall for some reason. To wet, you see a light bacterial slime against the glass ... To dry they just slow down & stop... If contaminated with some crap, usualy it will show itself right after the single shaking near 25% colonization.
To dry or wet, I toss content & run jars through the dishwater. If contaminated, I PC the jars to kill the contam, then dump them out & run the jars through the dishwasher.
With wbs, I have simply soak until the wbs expands about 20%. Once the wbs stops expanding, they are fully hydrated. Sometimes to make the drying faster, I heat the wbs up to steaming, then drain, dry & jar up.
Critical factors with wbs jars are: 1) Fully hydrated, but not wet. 2) Proper G/E filter(s). 3) Adiquate PC time (90 minutes @ 15 psi) 4) Allow jars to cool inside PC for awhile. (to stop steam from venting out of jars through the filter) 5) Clean innoc or G2G. (no excess spore solution or LC pooling) 6) Colonize jars from 68 to 75F, do not heat bottom of jars. 7) Shake ONCE @ 25% colonization.
If you have a clean healthy culture, spore solution, or LC. Following that should get you in the ballpark.
G/E Agar culture wide mouth 1/2 pints I use a whatman syringe filter LC lids I use a whatman syringe filter. G2G lids I use two 1/4 inch holes & tyvek, held down with micropore tape. Wbs LC innoc jars I use one 1/4 inch hole & tyvek / micropore combo. (micropore tape to hold tyvek in place on top of lid)
I don't use RTV to glue tyvek to lids over G/E holes. After 3 PC runs, a tyvek filter can clog or micro-pin-hole the tyvek.
Tyvek held down with micropore tape is easy to replace. Scrape off, replace & go again 3 more times.
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