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shiznackazane
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Registered: 09/24/07
Posts: 21
Last seen: 10 years, 4 months
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Humidity question
#7614120 - 11/09/07 08:34 AM (16 years, 2 months ago) |
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Hello all, new member, long time lurker. I've only recently become involved in the world of mushroom cultivation, and this is only my third grow, my first with a casing layer (50/50).
I've been able to maintain the humidity in my fruiting chamber at 90-95% (educated guess...no equipment, but I have a fair amount of condensation and water droplets, but no dripping water), but I'm having issues keeping the temperature at 75 due to a cold snap and an inadequately heated grow-room. I've been able to maintain it at 65-70 but I'm afraid this may be inhibiting growth, so I've placed my chamber (nothing fancy..just a plastic tub)inside a tub filled halfway with water and an aquarium heater.
My question is: Will the evaporating water from the heated tub drastically alter the humidity in my chamber? I do have my chamber covered with plastic wrap in hopes of somewhat preventing the problem.
Thanks!
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RogerRabbit
Bans for Pleasure



Registered: 03/26/03
Posts: 42,214
Loc: Seattle
Last seen: 11 months, 3 days
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Get it out of there and back to being in open air at room temperature. If you need heat, run a small space heater in the room. Never heat fruiting chambers. By the way, condensation is not an indication of humidity, and 65F to 70F is fine, but just a tad slower than if it were five degrees warmer. RR
-------------------- Download Let's Grow Mushrooms semper in excretia sumus solim profundum variat "I've never had a failed experiment. I've only discovered 10,000 methods which do not work." Thomas Edison
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shiznackazane
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Registered: 09/24/07
Posts: 21
Last seen: 10 years, 4 months
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Alright, awesome, thank you. Are the water droplets also no indication? I'm going to try to get out to a store after work today to see if I can find something to measure the RH with, hopefully I'll have some luck.
Edit: I've also been keeping my chamber covered in plastic wrap, even while outside the heated tub. When you say "get it back into open air", should I remove the cover and completely expose it? I've actually been confused about that for some time.
Edited by shiznackazane (11/09/07 08:49 AM)
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mycocurious
Mike O. Kuerias



Registered: 02/09/07
Posts: 1,265
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Quote:
RogerRabbit said: By the way, condensation is not an indication of humidity.. RR
+1 - Condensation is only an indication that there is a temperature differential between the two sides of the surface... and often times, because the condensation is inside your fruiting chamber, it's robbing the environment of it's available water-vapor in the air. Get rid of it and do not encourage it by misting the walls, etc..
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Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude. I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected... - How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates - How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier - How Myco-Curious Builds An Automated Greenhouse ------------------------------------ figgusfiddus said: Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.
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shiznackazane
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Registered: 09/24/07
Posts: 21
Last seen: 10 years, 4 months
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Ah..I've been making that mistake from the get-go. I've always misted the sides in addition to the perlite layer. Thanks for the tip.
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mycocurious
Mike O. Kuerias



Registered: 02/09/07
Posts: 1,265
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Shouldn't need to mist the perlite either, it will maintain enough water on it's surfaces to provide RH for well over a month or two in your standard "shotgun" styled terrarium.
When misting, I prefer a cheap pump-pressurized mister ($15 USD) over your standard spray bottle because it creates a much finer mist with much smaller water-particle sizes. And instead of misting the surface directly, spray the mist "over" your trays/cakes and allow the cloud of mist to fall upon the trays/cakes by gravity. Otherwise you'll get the pins overly wet and cause aborts.
Heavy fanning after misting helps fire up the transpiration/evaporation process as well as pushes large water droplets off that have formed on any of the pins/fruits.
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Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude. I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected... - How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates - How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier - How Myco-Curious Builds An Automated Greenhouse ------------------------------------ figgusfiddus said: Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.
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MarlboroMan
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Registered: 05/01/06
Posts: 184
Loc: Tx
Last seen: 16 years, 8 days
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Quote:
shiznackazane said: Edit: I've also been keeping my chamber covered in plastic wrap, even while outside the heated tub. When you say "get it back into open air", should I remove the cover and completely expose it? I've actually been confused about that for some time.
No, you need to keep the lid on there to keep the humidity in. But take it off about 3 times a day and fan the FC to get C02 buildup outta there!
-------------------- I'll make it to the moon if I have to crawl..
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