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 Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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 Case and Place with no incubation 
#7528942 - 10/17/07 07:03 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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What has your experiences been, with placing your cased substrate right in the FC after birth.
I know many suggest wrapping in foil for 3-5 days, but if you are using an opaque casing tray, then no light can get to the myc until it pops out of the casing layer.
Be kind, and tell me what you think.
Edited by Captain Cubensis (01/28/08 03:40 PM)
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 MarlboroMan
Stranger
Registered: 05/01/06
Posts: 184
Loc: Tx
Last seen: 16 years, 2 months
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I'd like to know too, because I was thinking about doing this. 
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I'll make it to the moon if I have to crawl..
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shroomerite
Apprentice
Registered: 06/09/06
Posts: 513
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 Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: MarlboroMan]
#7529308 - 10/17/07 09:08 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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I would put it right into the fruiting chamber. I think it helps keep contams down by introducing fresh air. It always seems to colonize on its own anyways. But I have read numorous post that go either way.
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"For best results, learn to work with nature rather than against it. Mycelium has an amazing ability to cope with less than optimal conditions, and will often fruit when a grower does everything wrong. However, do everything right and watch your performance go through the roof." RR
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simplemachine
Manfly
Registered: 09/14/03
Posts: 1,981
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That is what I do with very aggressively colonizing isolates. Once you put the tray in the FC it will keep colonizing for a few days.
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ButterWeasels
Forum Lurker
Registered: 08/11/06
Posts: 275
Loc: Saskatchewan
Last seen: 3 years, 9 months
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: simplemachine]
#7530796 - 10/18/07 10:50 AM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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I usually let it colonize for 2 days then expose to fruiting conditions. Next time I'll try 3 days as not much of the surface looked colonized before and I got an uneven pinset. It really doesn't matter much as long as you don't overlay.
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-==Classic Cakes Log==-
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? *DELETED* [Re: ButterWeasels]
#7531589 - 10/18/07 02:55 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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Post deleted by Captain CubensisReason for deletion: adds nothing
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ButterWeasels
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Registered: 08/11/06
Posts: 275
Loc: Saskatchewan
Last seen: 3 years, 9 months
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I don't see why it wouldn't work, how about testing it out side by side with another casing made the same way only incubated for 3 days before fruiting it. You'd find out which one grows faster and which one yields more.
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-==Classic Cakes Log==-
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mycocurious
Mike O. Kuerias
Registered: 02/09/07
Posts: 1,265
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Light is not "the" trigger for pinning, which is why I can have my spawn jars colonizing on the window-sil of my kitchen sink. The switch to the fruiting stage from the vegetative stage comes from several sources, but all and all the end result is the same, the colony realizes it's mortality and it's imperative to spread it's genetic seed overwhelms it into an ultimately deadly reproductive drive. Light can induce pinning when all the other triggers are also present, but you can also fruit jars invitro in total darkness.
OK, little bit of soapboxing there, but here's the practical answer...
90% of the time if you case and drop them in the fruiting chamber, nothing will happen. They'll continue in their vegetative stage until they run out of substrate, get pissed and fruit because they're starving to death. Same amount of time will pass, not saving any time...
The other 10% of the time, various unfortunate things happen... but usually the end result is a premature loss to contamination because the mycelium never had a chance to fully consolidate control over the substrate before it was strong enough to be fruited properly.
For that reason, I usually take my tubs and wrap them in shrink-wrap and then burn several holes into the top via a heated screwdriver and cover those holes with alcohol soaked micropore tape. Then, over that I place loosely crumpled aluminum foil over the top to block out any additional light but not so tightly as to prevent my regulated gas-exchange through those holes.
(I wish I would have taken this picture after I put the gas-exchange holes in the shrink-wrap. I know someone is going to look at this picture and not read the text and get it all fucked up by making it air-tight.)
  
That's 1.5 quarts of rye spawned into 7 quarts of homemade compost mixed 50/50 with coco-coir giving me a 4:1 substrate to spawn ratio. I let the tubs colonize for a full week as shown before I add any casing mixture. Sometimes two weeks depending on how slowly or quickly the pace of colonization. There's no reason to rush it and it's considerably "cleaner" in this semi-sheltered environment than within a fruiting chamber.
Hope that helps...
--------------------
 Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude. I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected...
- How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates
- How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier
- How Myco-Curious Builds An Automated Greenhouse
------------------------------------
figgusfiddus said:
Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: mycocurious]
#7532075 - 10/18/07 04:50 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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Nice answers, both, thanks guys!
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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I guess the reason I wonder is, like you said, you can fruit them in the dark, in a jar.
So if by emptying the contents of said jar into a pan, then casing, makes them harder to fruit?
I guess that's what confuses me, beside the regroup after being broken up. I get that, but why couldn't the myc recover under the casing just as fast in a slightly larger FC?
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RogerRabbit
Bans for Pleasure
Registered: 03/26/03
Posts: 42,214
Loc: Seattle
Last seen: 1 year, 1 month
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Quote:
Captain Cubensis said:
No one seems to know?
This exact question has been answered so many times that nobody wants to type it all over again. The search function is your friend. You can learn way more in a shorter period of time following searches, then you can by asking each question that comes to mind.
RR
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Download Let's Grow Mushrooms
semper in excretia sumus solim profundum variat
"I've never had a failed experiment. I've only discovered 10,000 methods which do not work."
Thomas Edison
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Wronguy
Registered: 03/05/05
Posts: 4,450
Last seen: 12 years, 9 months
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Quote:
Captain Cubensis said:
I guess that's what confuses me, beside the regroup after being broken up. I get that, but why couldn't the myc recover under the casing just as fast in a slightly larger FC?
I always place my casings directly into fruiting after I case. Now I use tubs and fruit in bags at times, but my results are consistent when using fruiting chambers (tubs). This is how I do it:
1. I crumble my colonized substrates while they're in the spawn bags.
2. The colonized substrate is placed into a tub and tightly packed down.
3. A casing layer is applied, usually 1/2-3/4 inch for 4 inch substrate, with Sunshine Mix #3.
4. Mycelium begins to poke through on day 3-4 and will continually do so over the next week.
5. By day 10-12 I have my first signs of hyphal knotting.
6. Day 12-14 first pins are covering a good majority of casing.
7. Day 17-18 fruits are ready to harvest.
I have done many side-by-side comparisons with this method to other methods allowing the casing layer to "incubate" and found no differences. In fact, for those of us using bulk substrates comprised of manure, incubation and fruiting is really one in the same. I never, let me the repeat that, I never, fruit or incubate any higher than room temperature. My results are very consistent and quite productive.
I hope that helps you out.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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 Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: Wronguy]
#7542369 - 10/21/07 11:34 AM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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QUOTE: Wronguy said
I have done many side-by-side comparisons with this method to other methods allowing the casing layer to "incubate" and found no differences. In fact, for those of us using bulk substrates comprised of manure, incubation and fruiting is really one in the same. I never, let me the repeat that, I never, fruit or incubate any higher than room temperature. My results are very consistent and quite productive.
I hope that helps you out.
Wow, you are the MAN! I knew it, but no one else would really say it. Thank you so much for taking the time to answer that question, and for answering it so succinctly and professionally.
I appreciate it greatly!
Edited by Captain Cubensis (10/21/07 11:35 AM)
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Wronguy
Registered: 03/05/05
Posts: 4,450
Last seen: 12 years, 9 months
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My pleasure.
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monstermitch
Growing in Bags Doesn't Work
Registered: 02/10/06
Posts: 3,911
Loc: Arizona Bay 
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: Wronguy]
#7542420 - 10/21/07 11:47 AM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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the problem is that Wronguy's method and Captain's situation are
different.
Captain, if you are not using a mono or double tub, his
advice will not work for you. Just placing a tray into a box a little
bigger than the tray will not work.
it needs fresh air provisions.
as for timing, it doesn't matter really.
after the substrate is fully colonized, it can go into fruiting conditions.
it makes no difference if there is casing on there or not.
you can apply casing and immediately put it into fruiting.
you can forget the casing all together and put it into fruiting.
you can apply casing and let it sit in the dark for 3 days and then
put it into fruiting.
it doesn't really matter so much.
what matters is exactly what kind of fruiting chamber you have.
what level of humidity is inside of that chamber.
how many full and complete air exchanges per hour the fruiting
chamber is receiving.
those are what matter.
if you're using double tubs, like Wronguy uses, then follow his method.
it works, I use it.
otherwise you're still on your own.
it's very simple:
once a substrate is fully colonized, it can be fruited at any time.
the humidity should be over 90%
the air should be exchanged about 3 times every single hour.
light should be available 12 hours a day.
everything else is trivial really.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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 Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? *DELETED* [Re: monstermitch]
#7542465 - 10/21/07 12:01 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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Post deleted by Captain CubensisReason for deletion: Noob ignorance
Edited by Captain Cubensis (10/21/07 12:02 PM)
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xaxphaanes
Mycologist
Registered: 08/08/05
Posts: 2,988
Last seen: 1 year, 8 months
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lol sounds like a contam waiting to happen(sry but it does).Also you are making it wayyy to complex it is allot easier than what you are saying (even for large grows).
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"Anything i say is fictional"
what you should look for in manure
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monstermitch
Growing in Bags Doesn't Work
Registered: 02/10/06
Posts: 3,911
Loc: Arizona Bay
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Quote:
Captain Cubensis said:
Hey, thanks Mitch, I appreciate the info. Your breath of knowledge is unquestionable.
You will probably disagree with this tek, but I will take a chance and explain it to you, tell me what you think.
My foaf uses an 18qt clear bin, with numerous holes drilled into the sides, with standing water on the bottom (I know, I know), and the casing tray, a 9x13 cake pan with about 1.5 inches of substrate, and about 1/4 to maybe 1/2 inch Jiffy Mix, pH upped to about 7.8 using Earth Juice, organic natural pH buffer.
The pan's depth is perfect at this thickness cause the casing layer can be made to almost overflow over the side of the pan, which I believe helps with CO2 removal, as gravity just pulls it down to the standing water. Especially if tilted slightly during fanning.
The casing is also slightly mounded, to facilitate the gravity effect. Not much, only a few degrees. The casing pan is only slightly smaller than the FC, barely fitting inside, with about 5 inches of air above it.
I know about the standing water, but the thing is, my foaf adds 35% H2O2 to it, not much, just about 1/4 cup per week, which not only keeps it cleaner, but it is ABSOLUTELY SATURATED with oxygen, which almost continuously bubbles up to replace the cascading CO2.
Since O2 is lighter than CO2, I think physics dictate that the CO2 is replaced with pure O2 as it slides away and down off the casing into the water, which absorbs the CO2.
The open water tek always provided 99% humidity with NO MESS when my foaf was making cakes.
Anyway, I am curious what you think, but be kind, I am a sensitive artist type, always on the side of the oppressed and underprivileged as I passionately where my heart on my sleeve
I see some fundamental flaws in your thinking and procedure.
Just from lack of experience and research...
Here's what I think:
1.5 inches is pretty shallow for cubes. It'll work, but not very well.
A substrate is a pumping station, and it only being 1.5 inches thick
means it cannot hold enough water to make a full casing of large
shrooms.
A casing layer should never, ever be more than 1/4 of the thickness
of the substrate. So for you 1/4 inch is the deepest you should
go really.
Seeing how you have holes all throughout the chamber's walls,
the carbon dioxide will NOT separate from the air and sink to the
bottom. Those holes allow for air exchange, and air does NOT
separate itself out when in motion like that. So your overflow
idea is for not. and your tilting idea is also for not. And also, your
mounding idea is very poor. You'll find that all that will do is make
it so the center of the substrate will not fruit. It won't help you
out a single bit.
hydrogen peroxide will NOT work to prevent contams in standing
water. It may work for about an hour, but that's it. The bacteria
in the water (or any organic compounds) along with the exposure
to light will render the peroxide useless in a very short matter of time.
Standing water actually will rob humidity from the air, not provide
it, so that idea is backwards as well.
I understand that you are sensitive.
That would explain why you call me names and go off all the time.
But whatever. This is my two cents. Take em or leave em of
course, just don't call me names for trying to help please.
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xaxphaanes
Mycologist
Registered: 08/08/05
Posts: 2,988
Last seen: 1 year, 8 months
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: monstermitch]
#7542555 - 10/21/07 12:20 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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{quote] My foaf uses an 18qt clear bin, with numerous holes drilled into the sides, with standing water on the bottom (I know, I know)
you already know what you are doing wrong so there wasn't a reason to say anything specifically.
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"Anything i say is fictional"
what you should look for in manure
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Wronguy
Registered: 03/05/05
Posts: 4,450
Last seen: 12 years, 9 months
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: monstermitch]
#7542634 - 10/21/07 12:46 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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Thanks for clarifying MM. I should have stated this more clearly. I was under the impression he would be using tubs, meaning double or mono.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? *DELETED* [Re: monstermitch]
#7543375 - 10/21/07 03:55 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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Post deleted by Captain CubensisReason for deletion: adds nothing
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monstermitch
Growing in Bags Doesn't Work
Registered: 02/10/06
Posts: 3,911
Loc: Arizona Bay
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if what you are saying is true, this whole planet would suffocate
in co2. it would sink to the surface and kill us all. if the air was
completely still, you might have an argument, but it's not.
so we can agree to disagree on this one.
as for the standing water:
we can agree to disagree on that too.
aside from the RH disagreement, what about it being a blatant
breeding ground for mold and bacteria?
peroxide won't stop that. so what do you plan on using?
bleach or iodine is a better choice for you.
and about perlite:
you don't have to use perlite.
you can use geolite or lava rocks.
perlite is superior because of it's vast surface area...
you know what... you sound like a monotub kind of guy.
why not stop complaining and fighting the advice you're getting
about building a proper pmp... and make monotubs??!!??
no perlite, no humidification substance, no fanning, no worries.
sounds like your kind of operation to me.
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mycocurious
Mike O. Kuerias
Registered: 02/09/07
Posts: 1,265
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: monstermitch]
#7544301 - 10/21/07 07:48 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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CO2 only filters out of the air in still-air environments where there are no air currents whatsoever to mix it up...
As for the technical-grade (35%) H2O2 you're using, it might seem all cool and super effective but the first time you get a chemical burn from the shit you'll get over it real++ quick. You also have to have a HazMat license to ship or transport it so it tends to be annoying getting it after a while - or you get raped on the shipping.
As for the standing water, you results may vary and you may have great faith in it but I personally would not ever allow any standing water in my greenhouse or terrarium. Several inches of well drained perlite has always been more than effective for me and it requires no standing water.
--------------------
Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude. I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected...
- How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates
- How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier
- How Myco-Curious Builds An Automated Greenhouse
------------------------------------
figgusfiddus said:
Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? *DELETED* [Re: mycocurious]
#7544656 - 10/21/07 09:12 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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Post deleted by Captain CubensisReason for deletion: noob ignorance
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nw_shroomy
NoN-stranger
Registered: 01/02/06
Posts: 1,332
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Why do you ask a question if you think you already know the answer?
Just by reading some of your threads ,it seems like you are just trying to argue why your right and everyone else's ways are wrong.
Mushrooms can be grown under many different perimeters.As long as you are happy with your results.I just hope some other noobs dont read this and think "this is the best way to grow".Standing water.lol
Hopefully this will be the end of another one of your debates about who's ways better.GL
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Spawn Ratio Calculator
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/7803673#7803673
I only grow edibles.Any info I give ONLY applies to gourmet mushrooms.
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shroomerite
Apprentice
Registered: 06/09/06
Posts: 513
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: nw_shroomy]
#7544951 - 10/21/07 10:27 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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You achieve a high RH by water evaporating into the air. If you use standing water then your surface area of water/air contact is limited to only the surface of the standing water. Rinsed, well drained perlite allows for a much larger surface area of water/air contact thus getting a higher evaporation rate, achieving a higher humidty level without standing water. I know you feel this will work, but the best advice I can give is "experiment". When ever you cant find the answers from someone giving them to you then by all means, find out for yourself what works best for you. Nothing more definite than trial and error.
Also standing water allows for a still enviorment beneth the waters surface. This is why contams are proned to grow in it as opposed to perlite which gets more air exhange through evaporation. This makes it less contam prone.
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"For best results, learn to work with nature rather than against it. Mycelium has an amazing ability to cope with less than optimal conditions, and will often fruit when a grower does everything wrong. However, do everything right and watch your performance go through the roof." RR
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? *DELETED* [Re: shroomerite]
#7544971 - 10/21/07 10:32 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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Post deleted by Captain CubensisReason for deletion: Lame
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xaxphaanes
Mycologist
Registered: 08/08/05
Posts: 2,988
Last seen: 1 year, 8 months
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What was the point of this thread if all you are going to do is argue. All we are saying is that standing water is more "prone" to "contam".Perlite doesnt contam since it doesnt have any nutes and there is a constant evaporation going on with standing water "most" of it just sits there and waits for bacteria to move in.
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"Anything i say is fictional"
what you should look for in manure
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mycocurious
Mike O. Kuerias
Registered: 02/09/07
Posts: 1,265
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Quote:
Captain Cubensis said:
Yeah I see your points but, it seems like you are saying this:
1/2 inch of water = contamination problem
1/2 inch of wet perlite = no contamination problem
Does the perlite have an antiseptic property?
In a fashion, yes. The hundreds pico-liter sized nooks and crannies that a single piece of perlite has are all too small to hold both water _and_ and a contaminate. Should a contaminate land on one of those areas and - almost immediately - begin to germinate it will quickly run out of it's water supply and die/go dormant.
Ultimately, while perlite does not have an antiseptic nature, the degree of isolation it creates between the millions of water droplets it can "hold" *is* is helping to prevent contaminations from spreading. It's also why everyone tells you to keep your substrates/cakes off and away from the perlite.\
---
And for the record, anything less than 4" of perlite is likely going to be too little to properly humidify your terrarium/greenhouse - but I'm sure that was for the sake of the argument and nothing more.
--------------------
Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude. I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected...
- How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates
- How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier
- How Myco-Curious Builds An Automated Greenhouse
------------------------------------
figgusfiddus said:
Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: mycocurious]
#7546646 - 10/22/07 12:16 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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Are you saying that the nooks in perlite are so small the only one molecule can fit in them?
Mold spores are less then 3 microns across aren't they?
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mycocurious
Mike O. Kuerias
Registered: 02/09/07
Posts: 1,265
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Quote:
Captain Cubensis said:
Are you saying that the nooks in perlite are so small the only one molecule can fit in them?
Mold spores are less then 3 microns across aren't they?
I was trying to give you a relative unit of measure rather than an absolute. But since we're going to be splitting hairs...while I can't find the precise "molecule count" of a picoliter of water it's still going to be several thousand water molecules in size.
picoliter = 10-12 of one liter... or 0.00000000001th of one liter, whichever is easier to read.
--------------------
Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude. I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected...
- How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates
- How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier
- How Myco-Curious Builds An Automated Greenhouse
------------------------------------
figgusfiddus said:
Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: mycocurious]
#7547061 - 10/22/07 02:08 PM (16 years, 5 months ago) |
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I get you, no need to split hairs.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal
Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Case and Place with no incubation [Re: monstermitch]
#7945861 - 01/28/08 03:39 PM (16 years, 2 months ago) |
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Let's update this thread, cause really man, if you search on it, you will find 99% Hyphae's, and a mixed bag of peeps who don't incubate, patch, and place, just case and place.
What are people doing now? Teks evolve, ideas change, is Hyphae's still the only way to go? Or should I say, can you skip the incubate and patch stage, since aggressive myc will enter the casing layer in 3-5 days in an FC or an incubator.
Say you spawn 2 quarts of rye to 4 quarts of coir/verm+.
What are your experiences with placing the cased substrate directly into an FC without any incubation period.
The casing layer is 50/50+, and maybe 1/4 inch thick on average.
The FC is a Shotgun style with perlite.
Edited by Captain Cubensis (01/28/08 03:47 PM)
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psilonaut2000
Stranger
Registered: 01/11/09
Posts: 29
Last seen: 13 years, 9 months
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: RogerRabbit]
#9998358 - 03/18/09 10:46 PM (15 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
RogerRabbit said:
Quote:
Captain Cubensis said:
No one seems to know?
This exact question has been answered so many times that nobody wants to type it all over again. The search function is your friend. You can learn way more in a shorter period of time following searches, then you can by asking each question that comes to mind.
RR
RR your the man however, sometimes the lack of intelligence the "search" engine is instilled with, makes it difficult for the average shroomery enthusiast to use with helpful results! I cant remember how many times I spent hours trying to find answers and teks and the most ridiculous search results came up. Then when I finally found someone who asked my same question, everyone dissed them and said " learn how to use the search engine, that question has been answered a billion times."
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freespeech
disciple
Registered: 12/12/08
Posts: 1,745
Loc: PNW
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: psilonaut2000]
#9998461 - 03/18/09 11:04 PM (15 years, 1 month ago) |
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Quote:
psilonaut2000 said:
Quote:
RogerRabbit said:
Quote:
Captain Cubensis said:
No one seems to know?
This exact question has been answered so many times that nobody wants to type it all over again. The search function is your friend. You can learn way more in a shorter period of time following searches, then you can by asking each question that comes to mind.
RR
RR your the man however, sometimes the lack of intelligence the "search" engine is instilled with, makes it difficult for the average shroomery enthusiast to use with helpful results! I cant remember how many times I spent hours trying to find answers and teks and the most ridiculous search results came up. Then when I finally found someone who asked my same question, everyone dissed them and said " learn how to use the search engine, that question has been answered a billion times."
So now that you've figured out how to search, how much time are you going to spend reviving old dead threads? 
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psilonaut2000
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Registered: 01/11/09
Posts: 29
Last seen: 13 years, 9 months
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: freespeech]
#10042652 - 03/25/09 11:01 PM (15 years, 25 days ago) |
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do my actions bother you, you seem to have replied to a reply to a dead thread so.............I was drunk whats your excuse
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