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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal


Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Case and Place with no incubation
#7528942 - 10/17/07 07:03 PM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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What has your experiences been, with placing your cased substrate right in the FC after birth.
I know many suggest wrapping in foil for 3-5 days, but if you are using an opaque casing tray, then no light can get to the myc until it pops out of the casing layer.
Be kind, and tell me what you think.
Edited by Captain Cubensis (01/28/08 03:40 PM)
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MarlboroMan
Stranger




Registered: 05/01/06
Posts: 184
Loc: Tx
Last seen: 16 years, 8 days
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I'd like to know too, because I was thinking about doing this.
-------------------- I'll make it to the moon if I have to crawl..
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shroomerite
Apprentice


Registered: 06/09/06
Posts: 513
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: MarlboroMan]
#7529308 - 10/17/07 09:08 PM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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I would put it right into the fruiting chamber. I think it helps keep contams down by introducing fresh air. It always seems to colonize on its own anyways. But I have read numorous post that go either way.
-------------------- "For best results, learn to work with nature rather than against it. Mycelium has an amazing ability to cope with less than optimal conditions, and will often fruit when a grower does everything wrong. However, do everything right and watch your performance go through the roof." RR
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simplemachine
Manfly


Registered: 09/14/03
Posts: 1,981
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That is what I do with very aggressively colonizing isolates. Once you put the tray in the FC it will keep colonizing for a few days.
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ButterWeasels
Forum Lurker



Registered: 08/11/06
Posts: 275
Loc: Saskatchewan
Last seen: 3 years, 6 months
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: simplemachine]
#7530796 - 10/18/07 10:50 AM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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I usually let it colonize for 2 days then expose to fruiting conditions. Next time I'll try 3 days as not much of the surface looked colonized before and I got an uneven pinset. It really doesn't matter much as long as you don't overlay.
-------------------- -==Classic Cakes Log==-
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal


Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? *DELETED* [Re: ButterWeasels]
#7531589 - 10/18/07 02:55 PM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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Post deleted by Captain CubensisReason for deletion: adds nothing
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ButterWeasels
Forum Lurker



Registered: 08/11/06
Posts: 275
Loc: Saskatchewan
Last seen: 3 years, 6 months
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I don't see why it wouldn't work, how about testing it out side by side with another casing made the same way only incubated for 3 days before fruiting it. You'd find out which one grows faster and which one yields more.
-------------------- -==Classic Cakes Log==-
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mycocurious
Mike O. Kuerias



Registered: 02/09/07
Posts: 1,265
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Light is not "the" trigger for pinning, which is why I can have my spawn jars colonizing on the window-sil of my kitchen sink. The switch to the fruiting stage from the vegetative stage comes from several sources, but all and all the end result is the same, the colony realizes it's mortality and it's imperative to spread it's genetic seed overwhelms it into an ultimately deadly reproductive drive. Light can induce pinning when all the other triggers are also present, but you can also fruit jars invitro in total darkness.
OK, little bit of soapboxing there, but here's the practical answer...
90% of the time if you case and drop them in the fruiting chamber, nothing will happen. They'll continue in their vegetative stage until they run out of substrate, get pissed and fruit because they're starving to death. Same amount of time will pass, not saving any time...
The other 10% of the time, various unfortunate things happen... but usually the end result is a premature loss to contamination because the mycelium never had a chance to fully consolidate control over the substrate before it was strong enough to be fruited properly.
For that reason, I usually take my tubs and wrap them in shrink-wrap and then burn several holes into the top via a heated screwdriver and cover those holes with alcohol soaked micropore tape. Then, over that I place loosely crumpled aluminum foil over the top to block out any additional light but not so tightly as to prevent my regulated gas-exchange through those holes.
(I wish I would have taken this picture after I put the gas-exchange holes in the shrink-wrap. I know someone is going to look at this picture and not read the text and get it all fucked up by making it air-tight.)
  
That's 1.5 quarts of rye spawned into 7 quarts of homemade compost mixed 50/50 with coco-coir giving me a 4:1 substrate to spawn ratio. I let the tubs colonize for a full week as shown before I add any casing mixture. Sometimes two weeks depending on how slowly or quickly the pace of colonization. There's no reason to rush it and it's considerably "cleaner" in this semi-sheltered environment than within a fruiting chamber.
Hope that helps...
--------------------
Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude. I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected... - How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates - How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier - How Myco-Curious Builds An Automated Greenhouse ------------------------------------ figgusfiddus said: Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal


Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: mycocurious]
#7532075 - 10/18/07 04:50 PM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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Nice answers, both, thanks guys!
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal


Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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I guess the reason I wonder is, like you said, you can fruit them in the dark, in a jar.
So if by emptying the contents of said jar into a pan, then casing, makes them harder to fruit?
I guess that's what confuses me, beside the regroup after being broken up. I get that, but why couldn't the myc recover under the casing just as fast in a slightly larger FC?
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RogerRabbit
Bans for Pleasure



Registered: 03/26/03
Posts: 42,214
Loc: Seattle
Last seen: 11 months, 3 days
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Quote:
Captain Cubensis said: No one seems to know?
This exact question has been answered so many times that nobody wants to type it all over again. The search function is your friend. You can learn way more in a shorter period of time following searches, then you can by asking each question that comes to mind. RR
-------------------- Download Let's Grow Mushrooms semper in excretia sumus solim profundum variat "I've never had a failed experiment. I've only discovered 10,000 methods which do not work." Thomas Edison
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Wronguy

Registered: 03/05/05
Posts: 4,450
Last seen: 12 years, 7 months
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Quote:
Captain Cubensis said: I guess that's what confuses me, beside the regroup after being broken up. I get that, but why couldn't the myc recover under the casing just as fast in a slightly larger FC?
I always place my casings directly into fruiting after I case. Now I use tubs and fruit in bags at times, but my results are consistent when using fruiting chambers (tubs). This is how I do it:
1. I crumble my colonized substrates while they're in the spawn bags. 2. The colonized substrate is placed into a tub and tightly packed down. 3. A casing layer is applied, usually 1/2-3/4 inch for 4 inch substrate, with Sunshine Mix #3. 4. Mycelium begins to poke through on day 3-4 and will continually do so over the next week. 5. By day 10-12 I have my first signs of hyphal knotting. 6. Day 12-14 first pins are covering a good majority of casing. 7. Day 17-18 fruits are ready to harvest.
I have done many side-by-side comparisons with this method to other methods allowing the casing layer to "incubate" and found no differences. In fact, for those of us using bulk substrates comprised of manure, incubation and fruiting is really one in the same. I never, let me the repeat that, I never, fruit or incubate any higher than room temperature. My results are very consistent and quite productive.
I hope that helps you out.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal


Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: Wronguy]
#7542369 - 10/21/07 11:34 AM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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QUOTE: Wronguy said
I have done many side-by-side comparisons with this method to other methods allowing the casing layer to "incubate" and found no differences. In fact, for those of us using bulk substrates comprised of manure, incubation and fruiting is really one in the same. I never, let me the repeat that, I never, fruit or incubate any higher than room temperature. My results are very consistent and quite productive.
I hope that helps you out.
Wow, you are the MAN! I knew it, but no one else would really say it. Thank you so much for taking the time to answer that question, and for answering it so succinctly and professionally.
I appreciate it greatly!
Edited by Captain Cubensis (10/21/07 11:35 AM)
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Wronguy

Registered: 03/05/05
Posts: 4,450
Last seen: 12 years, 7 months
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My pleasure.
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monstermitch
Growing in Bags Doesn't Work



Registered: 02/10/06
Posts: 3,911
Loc: Arizona Bay
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: Wronguy]
#7542420 - 10/21/07 11:47 AM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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the problem is that Wronguy's method and Captain's situation are different.
Captain, if you are not using a mono or double tub, his advice will not work for you. Just placing a tray into a box a little bigger than the tray will not work. it needs fresh air provisions.
as for timing, it doesn't matter really. after the substrate is fully colonized, it can go into fruiting conditions. it makes no difference if there is casing on there or not.
you can apply casing and immediately put it into fruiting. you can forget the casing all together and put it into fruiting. you can apply casing and let it sit in the dark for 3 days and then put it into fruiting.
it doesn't really matter so much.
what matters is exactly what kind of fruiting chamber you have. what level of humidity is inside of that chamber. how many full and complete air exchanges per hour the fruiting chamber is receiving.
those are what matter.
if you're using double tubs, like Wronguy uses, then follow his method. it works, I use it.
otherwise you're still on your own. it's very simple: once a substrate is fully colonized, it can be fruited at any time. the humidity should be over 90% the air should be exchanged about 3 times every single hour. light should be available 12 hours a day.
everything else is trivial really.
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Captain Cubensis
Bleeding HeartLiberal


Registered: 09/18/07
Posts: 648
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? *DELETED* [Re: monstermitch]
#7542465 - 10/21/07 12:01 PM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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Post deleted by Captain CubensisReason for deletion: Noob ignorance
Edited by Captain Cubensis (10/21/07 12:02 PM)
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xaxphaanes
Mycologist



Registered: 08/08/05
Posts: 2,988
Last seen: 1 year, 5 months
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lol sounds like a contam waiting to happen(sry but it does).Also you are making it wayyy to complex it is allot easier than what you are saying (even for large grows).
-------------------- "Anything i say is fictional" what you should look for in manure
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monstermitch
Growing in Bags Doesn't Work



Registered: 02/10/06
Posts: 3,911
Loc: Arizona Bay
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Quote:
Captain Cubensis said: Hey, thanks Mitch, I appreciate the info. Your breath of knowledge is unquestionable.
You will probably disagree with this tek, but I will take a chance and explain it to you, tell me what you think.
My foaf uses an 18qt clear bin, with numerous holes drilled into the sides, with standing water on the bottom (I know, I know), and the casing tray, a 9x13 cake pan with about 1.5 inches of substrate, and about 1/4 to maybe 1/2 inch Jiffy Mix, pH upped to about 7.8 using Earth Juice, organic natural pH buffer.
The pan's depth is perfect at this thickness cause the casing layer can be made to almost overflow over the side of the pan, which I believe helps with CO2 removal, as gravity just pulls it down to the standing water. Especially if tilted slightly during fanning.
The casing is also slightly mounded, to facilitate the gravity effect. Not much, only a few degrees. The casing pan is only slightly smaller than the FC, barely fitting inside, with about 5 inches of air above it.
I know about the standing water, but the thing is, my foaf adds 35% H2O2 to it, not much, just about 1/4 cup per week, which not only keeps it cleaner, but it is ABSOLUTELY SATURATED with oxygen, which almost continuously bubbles up to replace the cascading CO2.
Since O2 is lighter than CO2, I think physics dictate that the CO2 is replaced with pure O2 as it slides away and down off the casing into the water, which absorbs the CO2.
The open water tek always provided 99% humidity with NO MESS when my foaf was making cakes.
Anyway, I am curious what you think, but be kind, I am a sensitive artist type, always on the side of the oppressed and underprivileged as I passionately where my heart on my sleeve
I see some fundamental flaws in your thinking and procedure. Just from lack of experience and research... Here's what I think:
1.5 inches is pretty shallow for cubes. It'll work, but not very well. A substrate is a pumping station, and it only being 1.5 inches thick means it cannot hold enough water to make a full casing of large shrooms.
A casing layer should never, ever be more than 1/4 of the thickness of the substrate. So for you 1/4 inch is the deepest you should go really.
Seeing how you have holes all throughout the chamber's walls, the carbon dioxide will NOT separate from the air and sink to the bottom. Those holes allow for air exchange, and air does NOT separate itself out when in motion like that. So your overflow idea is for not. and your tilting idea is also for not. And also, your mounding idea is very poor. You'll find that all that will do is make it so the center of the substrate will not fruit. It won't help you out a single bit.
hydrogen peroxide will NOT work to prevent contams in standing water. It may work for about an hour, but that's it. The bacteria in the water (or any organic compounds) along with the exposure to light will render the peroxide useless in a very short matter of time.
Standing water actually will rob humidity from the air, not provide it, so that idea is backwards as well.
I understand that you are sensitive. That would explain why you call me names and go off all the time. But whatever. This is my two cents. Take em or leave em of course, just don't call me names for trying to help please.
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xaxphaanes
Mycologist



Registered: 08/08/05
Posts: 2,988
Last seen: 1 year, 5 months
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: monstermitch]
#7542555 - 10/21/07 12:20 PM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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{quote] My foaf uses an 18qt clear bin, with numerous holes drilled into the sides, with standing water on the bottom (I know, I know)
you already know what you are doing wrong so there wasn't a reason to say anything specifically.
-------------------- "Anything i say is fictional" what you should look for in manure
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Wronguy

Registered: 03/05/05
Posts: 4,450
Last seen: 12 years, 7 months
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Re: Placing the Casing right in the FC? [Re: monstermitch]
#7542634 - 10/21/07 12:46 PM (16 years, 3 months ago) |
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Thanks for clarifying MM. I should have stated this more clearly. I was under the impression he would be using tubs, meaning double or mono.
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