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Offlinetrippindad82
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Rye question
    #7504506 - 10/10/07 08:00 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

I am doing up a fresh batch of rye. I want to know what it the recommended time to allow it to drain post boil, following RR's tek? I have been doing it for 60 minutes and it just seems too dry when it comes out of the PC. Is half an hour ok?


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Trying to explain a journey to someone who has never experienced it is like trying to explain what a zebra looks like to  blind person who has never seen a horse.

^^^The above matter may be a complete fantasy that I concocted out of possible boredom.^^^


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OfflineRogerRabbitM
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Re: Rye question [Re: trippindad82]
    #7504520 - 10/10/07 08:06 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

If you're shaking it in the collander per my method, then ten minutes is enough. In fact, all the water that will drip out, will do so within about 1 minute. After that, it's evaporating, not draining.
RR


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Offlinetrippindad82
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Re: Rye question [Re: RogerRabbit]
    #7504531 - 10/10/07 08:09 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

I am actually stirring it to bring the bottom to the top. Is this still acceptable. I feel so honored that the man himself is answering my questions. :bigblunt:


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Trying to explain a journey to someone who has never experienced it is like trying to explain what a zebra looks like to  blind person who has never seen a horse.

^^^The above matter may be a complete fantasy that I concocted out of possible boredom.^^^


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Invisiblemycocurious
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Re: Rye question [Re: trippindad82]
    #7504585 - 10/10/07 08:42 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

In my humble experience, I recommend stirring it, if you have the time...

I try to stir it several times - basically whenever I'm home and walking past the pot I give it a swirl - during it's 16-24 hour soak period and then, while I'm bringing it all to a simmering boil for 10-15 minutes I stir it frequently almost constantly to keep all the grains moving around.

This is practical for two reasons...

1. Stirring it during the soak and boiling ensures that all of the grains have the same exposure to the gypsum and coffee dilution (if added).

2. It makes clean up a lot easier because you don't have a layer of burnt grains stuck tot he bottom of the pot. And consequentially you'll have less burst-grain mush mixed into your spawn jars.

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In regards to your first question though...

After the boil I pour my grains into several colanders, making each one only about half full so that I can "toss" them while they're steaming. You can pick them up from the dollar store so don't be afraid to use more than one, it really helps.

Then, after they've had a chance to drip for a minute or so, I give them one final "gravity-drop" or two to try to push out any additional liquid water and begin tossing/fluffing/flipping (whichever sounds right to you) the grains in their colanders several times each, in a rotation until I notice that they're not steaming anymore. This part can take up to another 10-15 minutes itself...or until I can lay a handful on a kleenex without it leaving any wet-spots.

Don't trust your eyes to determine if they are too dry. If they've soaked for at least 12 hours and you've let them simmer at a soft boil for 10-15 minutes they'll be as hydrated as they need to be. All the water should be on the inside and none on the outside.

It's not uncommon for my jars to look completely dry until the first time I shake them and then you'll start to see some very slight signs of condensation because of the heat differential created by the heat the mycelium produce.


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:justdontknow: Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude.  I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected...

- How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates
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figgusfiddus said:
Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.


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OfflineAndrew47
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Re: Rye question [Re: mycocurious]
    #7504589 - 10/10/07 08:49 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

Right. You don't want to see any water in your jars


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Offlinetrippindad82
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Re: Rye question [Re: Andrew47]
    #7504592 - 10/10/07 08:50 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

Right. I understand that. I just want to make sure that these jars can be loaded in 10 minutes like RR's video says. I trust him, but the grains just look too wet on the outside after ten minutes.


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Trying to explain a journey to someone who has never experienced it is like trying to explain what a zebra looks like to  blind person who has never seen a horse.

^^^The above matter may be a complete fantasy that I concocted out of possible boredom.^^^


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OfflineAndrew47
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Re: Rye question [Re: trippindad82]
    #7504629 - 10/10/07 09:09 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

Take a piece of your grain before you soak it and split it in half with a knife or whatever you prefer. Then half way through the soak and at then end of the soak split the grain again and compare with the original unsoaked grain. It'll be obvious that there is a lot more water inside the grains than before.

That said, all the moisture you need is in that hydrated inside. Any water on the skin of the grain is not only unnecessary but a vector for contamination.

Guides such as RR's that say drain for 10 minutes are there for starting points, in the end through experience you tailor their ways into ones that give you beneficial results. You know that you want the outside of the grains to be dry. If your grains are wet on the outside after following a tek, do what you need to do to dry them. RR's guide is for doing things in his kitchen, which is a good starting point for your kitchen


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Invisiblemycocurious
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Re: Rye question [Re: Andrew47]
    #7504659 - 10/10/07 09:22 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

Quote:

Andrew47 said:
Guides such as RR's that say drain for 10 minutes are there for starting points...




+1

Always consider all times listed in any process/tek to be rough order estimates and not absolutes unless otherwise stated. There are hundreds of variables that can't possibly be accounted for between his environment and yours - ambient temperature and relative humidity in your house, for example could dramatically effect how quickly the grains steam dry.


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:justdontknow: Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude.  I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected...

- How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates
- How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier
- How Myco-Curious Builds An Automated Greenhouse
------------------------------------
figgusfiddus said:
Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.


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OfflineBikerfool
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Re: Rye question [Re: mycocurious]
    #7504696 - 10/10/07 09:43 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

I like to let my grains cool until they are COOL to the touch.
That way I know that the water has completely evaporated from the surface.


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Invisiblemycocurious
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Re: Rye question [Re: Bikerfool]
    #7504723 - 10/10/07 09:56 AM (16 years, 3 months ago)

Quote:

Bikerfool said:
I like to let my grains cool until they are COOL to the touch.
That way I know that the water has completely evaporated from the surface.




But, in my humble experience, if you're not tossing them in the colanders to actively allow the steam to release then even though they're cool to the touch they'll still be wet because the top layer of grains formed a "barrier" to prevent the other moisture from being released from the the steam within. The steam will simple condense on grains surrounding it until the temperature equalizes still leaving them a little wet.


--------------------
:justdontknow: Don't mistake my tone for a "matter-of-fact" attitude.  I'm just presenting what I believe to be correct, until I'm corrected...

- How Myco-Curious Prepares Coir & Compost Substrates
- How Myco-Curious Builds A Bulk Humidifier
- How Myco-Curious Builds An Automated Greenhouse
------------------------------------
figgusfiddus said:
Keep in mind that inoculating or whatever in front of a flow hood won't help your bad substrate, your bad inoculant, your bad sterile procedure, etc. etc. etc. It's not a +3 flowhood of magic, it's just a tool.


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