RogerRabbit said:

Many contaminants are dormant when dry, and therefore heat resistant.  They need to be hydrated to become active so they can be killed off by pasteurization.
RR

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Thanks RR .

You know , I can buy that for grains and such , but we're talking shit here .

I remember Coda having a good run with using unpasteurized shit , just mix it up and spawn . Had a problem with some bugs , but I don't remember him having a terrible contam problem .

Might give it a try .

Peace,Love,Happiness and Harmony
Hippie Chick

chucklehead said:

Not to take this thread too far off topic but does that mean that you should let the rehydrated poo sit for 24 hours prior to pasturizing it so that all the little endospores-thinger-ma-bobs germinate or what ever?  I don't remember you saying that in the video.

Getting back on topic Myco Supply rocks!  I'm going to order another round I think :P

Before I do I wanted to ask about the fact that it's all in pellet form.  How much does that effect the texture?  Is vermiculite or coir, or straw a required addative to avoid turning it into mud?

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I've heard it's very beneficial to add some verm .

Peace,Love,Happiness and Harmony
Hippie Chick

Quote:

I'm gonna try spreading some out in a tray and heat it for a good while . It's not like I'm trying to heat it a bunch , only shooting for 160 .

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Dry heat and moist heat simply operate very differently Why the dedication to not hydrating first? At best a ridiculous time drain, at worst completely ineffective.

RR is right about contaminants. It's not a hard visible shell, it's on a microbiological level, from what I understand. The fluffiness of your dung, and relative hardness of WBS kernels, are unrelated to this; perhaps someone might correct me.

I for one, start out with about 10 pounds of dry, and dump it in a pot of 175 degree water. It evens out very quickly at 170, reduces to 150 after an hour/hour and a half, at which point I drain, wait for cooling, and squeeze down to field capacity and spawn.

CaptainLinger said:

Quote:

I'm gonna try spreading some out in a tray and heat it for a good while . It's not like I'm trying to heat it a bunch , only shooting for 160 .

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Dry heat and moist heat simply operate very differently Why the dedication to not hydrating first? At best a ridiculous time drain, at worst completely ineffective.

RR is right about contaminants. It's not a hard visible shell, it's on a microbiological level, from what I understand. The fluffiness of your dung, and relative hardness of WBS kernels, are unrelated to this; perhaps someone might correct me.

I for one, start out with about 10 pounds of dry, and dump it in a pot of 175 degree water. It evens out very quickly at 170, reduces to 150 after an hour/hour and a half, at which point I drain, wait for cooling, and squeeze down to field capacity and spawn.

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Still gonna give it a try .

I've been here long enough to know if I listened to everyone without trying something new , I'd be using coir as a casing layer and still fruiting my casing's at 82% humidity instead of 99% .

I know in actuality it might not "work" , but it might work good enough for me . I've seen peeps try a lot "sillier" things .

Peace,Love,Happiness and Harmony
Hippie Chick