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Offlinesplifner180
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Relocating Colonized Sub
    #5749948 - 06/14/06 03:06 PM (17 years, 7 months ago)

I have an aluminum pan (9"x12"x4") filled with WBS and hpoo. I'd say it's about 75% colonized. Two questions.

1) I intend to go caseless for this first grow (only). How colonized should the substrate be when I move to fruiting?

2) I originally intended to switch my grow to a TiT but ultimately decided to stick with the monotub. Only one problem; the aluminum pan the colonized substrate is in is too big to fit into the container I purchased. I was thinking about simply relocating the sub to the new container but that'll break up the myc.

I'm guessing this is ok but I'll have to wait an extra 24-48 hours for the mycelium to re-knit itself. Is this true? Any other problems I need to worry about?

tia! - splif


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First Grow: Ecuador -> LC -> HPoo/Straw -> Monotub
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Offlinesporey
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Re: Relocating Colonized Sub [Re: splifner180]
    #5750018 - 06/14/06 03:29 PM (17 years, 7 months ago)

Why go caseless? The method you have used is specifically for a casing. Even if you don't have any casing mix, just throw a thin layer of verm on top, that will serve well as casing layer, and get you many more mushies.

You could move your substrate to a new container, however i would wait until it is completely colonized to avoid inviting contams. If you do move it to a new container, cover it after transferring for a few days to allow myc to recover.


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Offlinesplifner180
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Re: Relocating Colonized Sub [Re: sporey]
    #5750061 - 06/14/06 03:38 PM (17 years, 7 months ago)

sporey writes:
"Why go caseless? The method you have used is specifically for a casing. Even if you don't have any casing mix, just throw a thin layer of verm on top, that will serve well as casing layer, and get you many more mushies."

I knew someone was going to ask that. =) There are several reasons.

First, it's my first grow and, believe it or not, I've never tried shrooms. I'm DYING to.

Second, I don't want my first grow to get slaughtered by contams. Uncased subs are less prone to contaminants.

Third, I have a metric crap-ton (that's an industry term) of colonized WBS and LC. This WBS+poo substrate mix is only about four days along so I could get back to this point very quickly just by mixing up another batch of pasteurized poo.

So due to all of these reasons I don't mind being a little wasteful.

"You could move your substrate to a new container, however i would wait until it is completely colonized to avoid inviting contams."

Since this is my first grow, I'm not quite sure what constitutes "fully colonized." For example, my WBS jars were "fully colonized" five days ago but now they're MORE fully colonized. It's denser.

Am I just looking for white over everything or am I looking for some degree of thickness/density of the myc?

splif


--------------------
First Grow: Ecuador -> LC -> HPoo/Straw -> Monotub
Build a Do-It-Yourself Magnetic Stirrer in thirty minutes with no money.


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Invisiblecreamcorn
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Re: Relocating Colonized Sub [Re: splifner180]
    #5750170 - 06/14/06 04:14 PM (17 years, 7 months ago)

if you can still see the mycelium's "food" no matter what it is you're using, contams can land there and take over town.

white over everything is fully colonized. if its getting denser, give it a little more time and let it do so, you're even better off. definitely give it that little extra time if you're moving to another container, and then yes you certainly can crumble it up and move it and let it knit back together.

and btw, a plain verm casing like suggested is no more prone to contam than uncased (if anything its less prone, since contams that may land on it won't have anything to feed off of, it protects the surface of your myc), and isn't a bad idea for a first try, not too much you could screw up with it.


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Offlinesplifner180
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Re: Relocating Colonized Sub [Re: creamcorn]
    #5750288 - 06/14/06 05:08 PM (17 years, 7 months ago)

creamcorn writes:
"and btw, a plain verm casing like suggested is no more prone to contam than uncased (if anything its less prone, since contams that may land on it won't have anything to feed off of, it protects the surface of your myc), and isn't a bad idea for a first try, not too much you could screw up with it. "

What you write makes sense to me and I fully intended to case until I read a couple of vets here opine that casing in a monotub does nothing more than delay harvest by waiting for the casing to be penetrated.

Can anyone else weigh in on this one?

tia - splif


--------------------
First Grow: Ecuador -> LC -> HPoo/Straw -> Monotub
Build a Do-It-Yourself Magnetic Stirrer in thirty minutes with no money.


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