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i8an8th
Mrs.


Registered: 06/16/05
Posts: 1,714
Loc:
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Starting an outdoor grow in new york..
#5430138 - 03/22/06 02:05 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Well I live about 2 hours north west of new york city and I plan and growing sum Janka this year.. I have grown pot outside but only from sum shwag seeds and got a lil bit of bud.. (pics in my gallery) Well this year I acquired some Swazi and Lebanon seeds they are early sativas.. And I want to have the perfect conditions for them.. Now over here the ground is still frozen over here so I am not sure when I should plant my seeds.. I plan on digging about 3 feet down and nice and wide.. I was going to use some cow manure, peat moss, organic potting soil, top solid and sum perlite, mixed with the regular dirt.. I'm planting on the side of a hill close to a stream but I am worried about insects and animals.. I was going to put piss around the location and maybe rap sum coper wire around the base of my more mature plants to ward of slugs.. Well I'm just blabbering on.. any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks
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Edited by i8an8th (03/22/06 02:11 PM)
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DrJ
Shaman


Registered: 03/13/06
Posts: 413
Loc: Celtic Isles
Last seen: 16 years, 24 days
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Re: Starting an outdoor grow in new york.. [Re: i8an8th]
#5430246 - 03/22/06 02:33 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Hey dude, firstly check out thsi grow guide, its not copy righted and is printable:- http://www.nirvana-shop.com/info_growing_guide.php#13 You can start planting now on a south facing (warm) window sill or under a flourecent light tube or 2 (or as many as you can get your mits on!!). But don't take them outside until night time temps are 5oC+ (10oC would be better). Is the slope your planning on planting south facing? If not you'll only get small plants. Swazi is a great outdoor plant. I used to live in south africa which is where its from, and some of the swazi we got made you see star's after a few tokes!! Your soil mix sounds perfect, even with a fairly shaded area you should get a decent harvest with such a quality mix. But as your digging such a big hole the plants will have loads of room to spread they're roots, which is great, but means with even minimal lighting they'll be at least 7' high by the end of the season. Is height a factor as far as security is concerned? If not, great. But if it is, clip them at the 4-6 set of leaves and/or bend them to follow the shape/height you need. Good luck dude, and print that grow guide! Has loads of very useful info for the outdoor and indoor grower! (USE SLUG PELLETS!!!!) lol
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   "Worse?? Or Better?!"
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i8an8th
Mrs.


Registered: 06/16/05
Posts: 1,714
Loc:
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Re: Starting an outdoor grow in new york.. [Re: i8an8th]
#5431689 - 03/22/06 08:26 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Anybody else?
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DrJ
Shaman


Registered: 03/13/06
Posts: 413
Loc: Celtic Isles
Last seen: 16 years, 24 days
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Re: Starting an outdoor grow in new york.. [Re: i8an8th]
#5434310 - 03/23/06 12:40 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Ok, a few question and ideas I'bve had that should help. First how big is the out door space you have? And how many seeds do you have? Either way I think you should get planting now. Once there are some decent side shhots take cuttings. (Do you need help with cuttings?) Then flower these cuttings in a cuboard somewhere. This way you can tell which plants are female within a few weeks rather than waiting till late august+. Then you can rip out the males and save yourself the time/effort/space and money of raising them to maturity. Then take as many extra cuttings as you need to populate your space. Notes on cuttings:- * Cuttings taken from the bottom of the plant root better and grow faster. * If you have an indica/sativa cross virety (most plants now have some of both) then cuttings taken from the top will have more of the sativa propertys than the bottom ones. Look for thinner leaves at the top, these will give you a better sativa smoke.
The only place I grew outside was south africa and holland and security wasn't a problem in either place. Is your place safe?
Keep us in formed, will be nice to see how they do. Plus, (not that even if you were growing you'd ever think of selling!!) I heard that good weed in New York is worth up to $120 an 1/8, is this true? If so, coke is cheaper here!!! Thats ridiculous!! lol I'm surprised that everyone doesn't grow if this is true. As 1/2 oz would pay for a whole hydro set-up.
PS. If things go well, have you thought of going hydro for next winter?
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   "Worse?? Or Better?!"
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i8an8th
Mrs.


Registered: 06/16/05
Posts: 1,714
Loc:
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Re: Starting an outdoor grow in new york.. [Re: DrJ]
#5434547 - 03/23/06 01:47 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Well I dont have alot of money right now... But I have all the room I want to grow I live in the boon docks.. I would like help with the cutings.. I've never done that..
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DrJ
Shaman


Registered: 03/13/06
Posts: 413
Loc: Celtic Isles
Last seen: 16 years, 24 days
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Re: Starting an outdoor grow in new york.. [Re: i8an8th]
#5434618 - 03/23/06 02:02 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Here some info on taking cuttings-
After two (ed. i reckon 1 month if they grow fast enough) months, any marijuana plant can be cloned. Flowering plants can be cloned, but the procedure may take considerably longer. Its best to wait, and regenerate vegetatively plants that have been harvested. A single regenerated/harvested plant can generate hundreds of cuttings. Before taking cuttings, starve the plant for nitrogen for a week at least, so that the plant is not extreamly green, as this will make rooting take longer. Take cuttings from the bottom 1/3 of the plant, when doing ordinary pruning. Cut young growth tips from a vegetative stage, mature plant 3-5 inches long with a stem diameter 1/5-1/10 inch. Cut with a sterile razor blade or X-acto knife (flamed) and immerse the cut end of the clone into a tub of distilled water mixed with 1/4 tspn Peters 5-50-17 per gallon. Next, cut the bottom .2 inch off the end while it is submerged, using a diagonal cut. Remove the clone from the tub and dip into a liquid cloning solution following instructions on the label. Dust with RootToneF and place in cloning tray or medium. Flowering plants can be cloned too, but may take longer, and may not have as high a success rate.
Cloning goes quickest with the liquid rooting solutions, in a warmed, aerated tray, with subdued lighting and high humidity. Placing cuttings into 1" rockwool cubes in a covered tray works great too. In a closet, you can make space above the grow area so that the heat of the lamp warms the tray (passive collecting) and spare the expense and hassle of the aquarium heater ($24) or agricultural heating pad w/ thermostat (pricey). A double 4" fluorescent lamp will be perfect. Leave lamps on for 24 hours a day. Cuttings should root in 2-3 weeks.
I found only one liquid rooting hormone solution that was not over $10. (Olivia Gel was $12 for a 1.6 ounce bottle. Geez, what is this stuff, gold?) I found some dipNgrow for $9, considered myself lucky, and got a tray and clear cover for $7. A clear tray cover or greenhouse encloser is needed to bring up humidity to 90% (greenhouse levels). Liquid rooting hormone seems to be much more effective than powders. Some types available are Olivia, Woods, and dipNgrow.
Mix a weak cloning solution of high P plant food (such as Peter 5-50-17), trace elements, and epsom salts and then dip plants in rooting solution per instructions on label. All of the above nutrients should be added in extremely small amounts, 25% of what would normally be used on growing plants. Or use a premade solution such as Olivia Rooting Solution. Corn syrup has been reported to supplement the sugars needed by the plant during cloning, since it consists of plant sugars.
Use a powder fungicide too, like RoottoneF to be sure you don not spoil the clones with fungus. This is important, since clones and fungus like the conditions you will be creating for good rooting:
mild light, 72-80 degrees, high humidity
In rockwool, there is no need for airating the solution, just keep the cubes in 1/4" of solution so they wick and stay moist at all times. Try to keep clones evenly spaced, and spray them with water once a day to keep them moist and fresh. Pull out clones if they are diseased and dying, to keep them away from healthy starts.
Another method is to float cutings in a tray full of solution on polystyrene disposable plates, or styrene sheets (shipping/packing material) with holes punched, so the tops and leaves are out of the water. Take off all large leaves, leaving only smaller top leaves to reduce demand on the new rooting stalk. Aerate the tray solution with an air pump and bubble stone. Keep solution at 72-80 degrees for best results. Change the solution daily if not using an air stone and pump, so that oxygen is always available to the cuttings. A week later, clip yellowing leaves from cuttings to reduce water demands as the cuttings start to root.
Buy a tray with a clear cover made for rooting at an indoor gardening supply house. You must keep humidity very high for the clones. Put cuttings in an ice chest with cellophane over the top and a light shining down if you don not want to pay for the grow tray and cover.
It is also possible to directly place a dipped cutting in a moist block of floral foam with holes punched, or vermiculite in a cup; be sure to root cuttings in a constantly moist medium. Jiffy peat cubes are not recommended, as published reports indicate results were not good for rooting clones. Place starter cubes in tray of solution. Check twice a day to be sure cubes are moist, not drenched, and not dry. After about 2-3 weeks, rootlets will appear at the bottom of the pods. Transplant at this point to growing area, taking care not to disturb any exposed roots.
One grower writes us:
I have had virtually all attempted clones root with the following scheme:
0. Prep cutting by removing large leaves on tip to be cut, allow to heal.
1. While holding underwater, take final diagonal cut on stem to be rooted.
2. Dip in Rootone, then spear stem about 2" deep in 16 oz. cups of 1/2 vermiculite, 1/2 perlite, which are kept in a stryrofoam cooler. 3. Spray cuttings with a VERY mild complete fert. soln.
4. Cover top of cooler with Saran Wrap, then punch holes for ventilation.
5. Keep cooler in relatively mild temps, low light, and spray cuttings daily.
6. Cuttings should root in about 3 weeks.
Cloning is not as easy as starting from seed. With seeds, you can have 18" tall plants in 6 weeks or less. With clones, it may take 6 weeks for the plant to sprout roots and new growth. Seeds are easily twice as fast if you have empty indoor space being wasted that needs to be put to use quickly. Always breed a few buds for seeds, even if you expect to be cloning most of the time, you could get wiped out, and have nothing but your seeds left to start over.
Cloning in rockwool seems to work great, and no airpump is needed. I paid $9 for 98 rockwool starter cubes. A plastic tray is available ($.95) that holds 77 cubes in pockets allowing the cubes to be held in a tray of nutrient solution. They are easily removed and placed in a larger rockwool growing cube when rooted. BREEDING
It is possible to breed and select cuttings from plants that grow, flower, and mature faster. Some plants will naturally be better than others in this regard, and it is easy to select not only the most potent plants to clone or breed, but the fastest growing/flowering plants as well. Find your fastest growth plant, and breed it with your "best high" male for fast flowering, potent strains. Clone your fastest, best high plant for the quickest monocrop garden possible. Over time, it will save you a lot of waiting around for your plants to mature.
Info from - http://www.nirvana-shop.com/info_growing_guide.php
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   "Worse?? Or Better?!"
Edited by DrJ (03/23/06 02:06 PM)
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