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pcubmycol
flattiefisherman

Registered: 05/23/05
Posts: 747
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Last seen: 15 years, 8 months
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THE WBS to POO tek in full
#5394781 - 03/13/06 10:45 AM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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I know there's a bunch of teks, but here's mine.. Don't flame, this will spread info that many leave out.
A tek aimed at options... for WBS spawn to Horse poo/straw from start to finish...
Key words to remember constantly...
Thoroughly Sterility Patience
Materials you will need - (Anything you might have trouble acquiring is listed in the tek or elsewhere in the forums) <<[Let me know if i left something out]
~Wild Bird Seed ~Horse Poo/Straw ~Casing material (IMO Jungle growth professional growers mix) ~Crushed oyster shell (or equivelant Calcium Carbonate CaCO3)(local garden store) ~Hydrated Lime(Local garden store) ~Pressure Cooker ~Large Pot ~Pint or Quart canning jars ~Items for a Fruiting Chamber (FC) ~~Greenhouse(Martha) --Plastic shelving --Plastic drop cloth --2.4gal Coolmist humidifier and garden hose(wally-greens) --Containers for casings(try to go at least 10x10x6 inches) ~~Double-tub --2 equal sized rubbermaids ~Tin foil and Saran wrap ~Poly-fil(from a pillow, or a fabric store) ~Tyvek(The post office - its free - priority mail envelopes) ~Coffee Filters/rubber bands ~Spray bottle ~Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) ~Germ mask ~Oust ~Disinfectant Wipes/Rubbing Alcohol ~Paper Towels ~An incubation chamber (IC) ~Digital Thermo/Hygrometer ~Duck Tape
Wild Bird Seed acquisition - ~WBS is available at many different places. All you need to do is be sure your WBS is free of chemical additives that are fungicides, obviously not good for this hobby. They tend to only be in the more expensive brands. Another good thing to look for is WBS high in millet, and low in sunflower seeds. "Bird-ration" brand has always produced good results for many people IMO, and its only 94 cents for a 4lb bag of it at wally-world.
WBS prep - ~The first thing you'll need to do is get your large pot (dependent on number/size of jars). Eventually your going to want your jars about 2/3 of the way full. Id like to say 2/3lb of WBS will fill a quart jar 2/3 of the way at its proper moisture content. So a 4lb bag of Bird-Ration will get you 6 quarts going. Or 1/3lb of WBS will fill a pint 2/3 of the way. So a 4lb bag will get you 12 pints going. Place the desired amount of WBS in your pot and fill the pot with water until the water level is about 2-3 inches above the top of the WBS. Put the cover on your pot. Now set a timer on a dial or in your head for 14hrs (although IME a 2hr variance in either direction is still in the optimal range).
~While your soak is taking place you'll need to make some type of draining apparatus for your WBS as a good draining is ESSENTIAL to this process.. Usually a colander will suffice, however using a drain that will keep the WBS depth between 1-2 inches is optimal.
1. One easy method is to place a tri-layered towel on a hard surface (i like to use a wood cutting board) and then place an aluminum tray with a 2-4 inch depth on top of the towel. Now get a fork and see how fast you can fill the bottom of the tray with holes(try to maintain roughly 1-1.5mm holes to prevent losing seeds down your drain). A good spacing to try to keep is the distance between the fork prongs between each hole (roughly 1-2mm).
2. If you were thinking about spending just a tad more or don't want to spend 15min poking holes in a tray... Go buy some aluminum screening and some sort base for the screen. I like to search around the kitchen or office sections of any store for a 3-4inch dish drainer for a sink or file tray. Then place a section of screen about 6inches longer than your tray on every side on top of your tray. Push all the corners down to the bottom and fold the excess over the sides. Find some method to attach the screen in this position. Alligator clips work nice along the top of your tray (maybe 3-5 per side dependent on size) and keep the screen folded over.
~When your soak is complete, pour contents into your newly made drain. Rinse every square inch of that WBS thoroughly (i like to rinse for about 1min/lb here up to 5min).
~Now wash your pot and rinse it thoroughly as we can't have any of the suds in here. Put all the WBS back in your pot and fill back with cool water. (If you use water from the tap/well, technically your always supposed to use cool water because water can dissolve a lot more stuff in the pipes when its hot. Obviously not essential, but it couldn't hurt, and this is the process which the WBS will absorb a lot of water.) Heat until the first signs of boiling are noticed, stirring thoroughly every minute or so to prevent grains on the bottom from bursting. Reduce heat to low/med low, whatever maintains this state of boiling. Continue stirring every minute or so and after 10 minutes start looking at a few different spoonfuls of grain at the end of each stir. When you start to see that 3 or 4 of the grains have bursted in each spoonful you've reached an average optimal moisture content amongst your grains. Take away from heat and put your WBS back in the drain.
~I like to rinse twice now with maybe a 10min break in between. Your last rinse should be very thorough and with cool water. Let your WBS drain for 3-6hrs dependent on how deep it is laying in your drain. Stir the WBS a couple times before your drain is complete.
Jar Prep-
~While your waiting for this drain to finish up, you'll need to go ahead and get out your jars, tyvek, and poly-fil or micropore tape. First things first, drill some holes in those lids (or you could do it with a good knife, but it wont look pretty). IMO, 2 holes that are 1/4inch for a pint jar, and 2 holes that are 1/3inch for a quart jar is what you'll need. Now wash all your jars, lids, and bands thoroughly. Cut out some squares of tyvek that extend at least 1inch in every direction from the rim of your jar (you can cut priority mail envelopes into 8 sections that work for both quart and pint jars). Put some poly-fil in each one of your holes (IMO, the poly-fil should be about 2-3times as compressed when inside the hole as it is in its normal state). Place the tyvek square on your jar, then the lid, then the band. Screw the band down all the way, then unscrew it and the tyvek, lid, and band should all be one.
~When your WBS is soaked, drained, rinsed, simmered, drained, rinsed, drained, rinsed, and then been drained again, its ready to put in these jars. Fill each jar 2/3 of the way full with your WBS. Take a dry paper towel and pinch the inside of jar so you have about an inch of dry paper on each side of the rim. Wipe all the way around the lid 2 or 3 times with good pinching pressure (this is a crucial small step that MANY people miss and lose jars). Now put the tyvek, lid, and band back on about 1/4 of a turn away from being all the way tight. Wrap each jar with 2 layers of aluminum foil as tight as you possibly can at least 2 inches below the band, even try to mold the foil into every crevice possible on the jar (you need to do this because you have an exact water content inside each jar that if its altered, the colonization process will slow dramatically).
Sterilization - ********I cant stress enough, YOU NEED A PRESSURE COOKER, although fractionally sterilizing grain has worked for some, it is not nearly as effective, consistent, and IME its never worked********
~Load each one of your jars into your PC on top of a rag or canning rack if you have one. Consult your PC for how much water you put in there, if you don't have a manual, 2-3inches of water will probably work. PC for 60minutes at 15psi (Although i used to advocate for 75minutes, IME 60 is still 100% effective and doesn't cause additional grain bursting as 75 sometimes does). Let jars cool in PC for a couple hours. Take them out and shake each one until all the grains are separated (this will aid in faster colonization and an easier shake later on). Let them cool so that they are at room temperature to the touch.
inoculation - ***You must maintain Sterility***
~So first things you do are kick anyone who might be in the room out (nobody should about all this anyway), turn off your heat/ac/fan so you have a draft free room, and put on; a germ mask, a hair net, rubber or latex gloves. Get out all your jars (still with the tin-foil on), your disinfectant wipes/alcohol and paper towels, oust, coffee filters, rubber bands, and your Incubation Chamber. Wipe down ALL surfaces and walls in your work area with disinfectant wipes and/or an alcohol soaked paper towel. Spray your work area with oust... no nuke your work area with oust.. really. Now remove the foil from a jar and immediately dab the inside of a new paper towel on top of your poly-fil if it is wet until it is dry. Then place 2 coffee filters over the top of the jar. Repeat for every jar, but each one in full before moving on to the next. Your spore syringe should have been out of the fridge (if you've been keeping in there) for a good little while so that it has warmed back up to room temp. Shake syringe thoroughly to distribute spores evenly amongst the water. Nuke work area with oust again. Remove the needle cap with a disinfectant wipe so that the needle is never exposed to the open air. Remove the 2 coffee filters and inoculate each jar with 1-2cc of spore solution (or LC) return the needle to its position within the disinfectant wipe, and then the coffee filters to the top after each inoculation (The needle will permeate through the poly-fil and tyvek fairly easily, then the poly-fil will close back up). After all jars have been inoculated place a rubber band over the coffee filters below the band on each jar and place into your IC.
(Its better to use a glove box, but this tek will run long enough as is)
For a more detailed pictoral tek that the previous portion of this tek is a slight variation of read here - Doc's Wild Bird Seed Tek
Colonization -
~Your IC should maintain a temp around 84F. Any point over 86 and your slowing colonization drastically so shooting for 82-84 is good since myc produces a little heat of its own. You'll want to air out your IC every day or two. Most people make the mistake of looking at their jars everyday, although this isn't as big of a problem with WBS as it is with PF tek, it's still a good idea to let them have their colonization time in as much darkness as you can give them. Shake your jars thoroughly when they are about 1/4 of the way colonized. This distributes the myc to different places in your jars so the network can expand from each grain that was already colonized. When they are covered in white 100% let them incubate one more day and their ready to be used for spawn. Start thinking about what kind of casing you want to make.
Making the FC -
~So decide which kind of set-up you'll use. Ill briefly cover how to make a double tub and the concept of a Greenhouse.
~Double Tub - Get 2 equally sized rubbermaids. Put one upside down on top of the other. Heat up a knife and cut 4 circular 3/4" holes on each long side of the bottom rubbermaid, and 2 on each short side. (Total of 6 holes on the top of it, and 6 holes at where your substrate level will be. Now for the top rubbermaid, cut the same holes in the middle, but only one row of holes. (Total of 6 holes in top rubbermaid) When picking your rubbermaid, try to go for clear, or you'll need some additional modification for light and viewing purposes. Stuff all your holes with poly-fil and you got an FC thats not sterile, slow for air exchange, but its easy, more stealthy, and damn it'll grow some fruits...
~Martha/Greenhouse - Buy some plastic shelving, a plastic drop cloth, some duck tape, and a garden hose from wally-world. Then make your way over wally-greens and buy a Vick's 2.4gal Coolmist. Assemble your shelving, wrap with drop cloth, duck tape air tight whatever way you can rig it, and then cut some little holes at the bottom and fill with poly-fil for CO2 outlets. Now cut up your garden hose so you can stick 2 ends into that hole in your coolmist and figure out a way to make that water tight... more drop cloth, tape, glue, silicon, whatever works for you. Stick the other two ends in your newly set-up martha and mess around with it til you get your rH stable around 95%. <-- Somtimes that can be a hassle. You may need to make some additional holes in your set-up. and remember after you get all your pins, the rH is gonna have to drop down another 3-10%.
Spawning -
~Well im hoping you already acquired some pasteurized horse poo/straw. If not you can go here... http://www.tennstud.com they have some great stuff. If you still arent able to figure it out, go find some horse poo in a pasture and follow one of these... http://www.shroomery.org/index.php/par/26706 http://www.shroomery.org/index.php/par/26911
So now that we have that out of the way, lets focus on making our casing. You could use so many things. Depends on your set-up. Regardless of the set-up though you still make the casing the same way. So first things first, make sure you got some CO2 outlets, if you made a double tub, you already got them. Now throw some tin foil down on all sides of your casing container, id even say use 2 layers with the ends of the foil all at the top, we're trying to go for at least a 4" sub depth so put at least 6" of depth for your foil. Now for the bottom layer you'll want to throw something down there to absorb any moisture that collects and send it back into the casing. Vermiculate works real well for this. It'll need to be sterile, or at least pasteurized. I like fractional sterilization for things like this, get your verm to good but not soaked moisture content and throw it in the microwave for 4 or 5 minutes with a lid that is barely open. Apply this layer about an inch thick. Now get out your pasteurized poo/straw, your fully colonized WBS, and a large pot. Maintain a sterile environment and sterile hands for this point! For each jar you have fully colonized, break it up into your large pot, add about 5 times the amount of poo/straw, put on the lid and shake like hell until the WBS is evenly mixed with the poo/straw. Drop this on over your verm layer and try to get this layer at least 4 inches above it. (The deeper you go the bigger your fruits get... up to a point) One of the next most common problems with most people is here... MAKE SURE THAT SUB LAYER IS LEVEL!!! If its not, you wont get a good pinset. Once application of the sub layer is completed place a layer of saran-wrap over the top of your substrate and let it incubate between 82-84F until completely colonized (2-3days).
~ Applying the casing layer. This... is an art. Most anyone can do it, it just takes a little practice and understanding. You'll need to get some casing material first. IME Jungle growth Professional Grower's mix is THE BEST thing you could use, by far, and its available at Lowe's. If ya cant find that I would suggest looking for some soil that is mainly made up of sphagnum peat moss and vermiculate. Or just buy some peat moss and verm and mix em together (around 60%peat 30%verm works well) Wait! you also need a pH buffer, or maybe two, and thats where that missing 10% plays in. Get some Hydrated Lime, and some crushed oyster shell. (5% of each into the mix) Your goal is to have your pH maintain around 7.5 to rid yourself of acidic loving contaminants. Assuming the top of your sub is level, you now gotta put on 1/2-3/4 of an inch of casing layer that will also be level. IME, once you have your casing layer level it can be beneficial to put some shallow ridges on the surface with a ruler or something... Then again, i usually have a problem with too many pins. Throw a new layer of saran-wrap on and let this incubate another couple days. When you notice that the myc has started to poke up in a few different spots, sprinkle a very thin layer of casing layer over those spots. Now lets make this thing fruit.
~ Getting your casing to fruit....
This can be an annoying part of anyone's grow, but remember that word? Patience. As most of you know, there are 3 main pinning triggers which ill write in order (IMO) of greatest importance to least. 1. Increased FAE - When the myc can breathe better it has the incentive to produce fruits for they'll be able to grow fast with all this oxygen! 2. A 10F temp drop - The myc can't expand its network nearly as fast, so it decides to makes fruits. (Switch between vegetative growth and fruiting). 3. Light - 12on/12off... Use a flouro or natural light and you can't go wrong. This simply tells the myc that it has reached the end of its network's growing capability, so it might as well fruit here.
If your using that dub-tub, start fanning it 4-6 times a day. Maintain your rH around 95% and your temp around 74-75F. Typically you'll notice hyphal knotting 3-4 days after your casing is in an FC. Then pins will follow 1-2 days later. Remember the patience though, as pinning can take up to 2 weeks. After your happy with the pinset you've gotten, drop your rH (I like to wait about 12-16hrs after i notice the first pins to drop rH.) Keep your casing layer at "near-saturation." (The point where the moisture on your casing is barely glistening from surrounding light. This shouldn't take more than 2-3 sprays with a spray bottle at this point.) Dependant on your rate of FAE is how fast your mushies will grow. I've seen mushies grow in about 48hrs to maturity as well as take 6-7 days. If you got a good pinset, all your mushies will mature at the same time and you'll be real happy... If not your first flush will span over a few days.
~ Harvest and after...
Simple... Pick the mushies! Make sure you get all the tissue out and patch any large holes in your casing layer with fresh casing layer. Pick all the aborts, but don't pick the dormant pins. (Aborts will just keep getting darker in color, dormant pins are just paused but maintain color.) Your casing will begin to pull away from the sides, which much of the time will cause a big problem we call side pinning. Now if you put that foil down the way i told you, you don't got to worry about that cause the sub is grabbing the foil and pulling it in with it! When your first flush is complete, you'll need to re-hydrate your casing. Make sure not to soak it as this can invite contams. Give it a heavy misting 2 or 3 times a day but do not exceed that "near-saturation" point by too much or you'll regret it. They'll keep comin probably as long as you can keep contams out this first casing. Optimally a casing will produce 4-5 flushes.. IMO 2 good flushes is acceptable, and 3 is a good goal to shoot for.
Other tips and tricks...
1. Don't use too much, but throw some H2O2 in your spray bottle, (5% or so) 2. The day you decide to make a glove box get into grain to grain transfers... Shit gets fast. 3. I use a spawn ratio of 1:10 instead of 1:5 but it tacks on a day to colonization and raises risks for contams. 4. Throw down a little money and use the greenhouse instead of the dub-tub. 5. Read this - Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy
Happy Trails and GL ~Pcub
-------------------- weretheshit.com is the shit! :-D
Edited by pcubmycol (03/13/06 06:36 PM)
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sivad02487
Stranger
Registered: 01/06/06
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: pcubmycol]
#5394815 - 03/13/06 10:57 AM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Great tek man. GREAT DETAIL! If there's one thing people leave out when writing teks is the details. You should ask if this could be archived
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Delinquentes
TIMMMAYYYYYYY


Registered: 02/07/06
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: sivad02487]
#5394860 - 03/13/06 11:12 AM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Excellent detail! Thanks for taking the time.
-------------------- "The price of meat has just gone up, and your old lady has just gone down!" ~~ Zappa Click Here for a ghetto ozone generator Tek. Want to learn more about ozone as a bacteria killer? Click Here
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Sinthetic
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: sivad02487]
#5394901 - 03/13/06 11:29 AM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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I agree it's very well rounded. Lots of good tips and tricks.
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mushboy
modboy


Registered: 04/24/05
Posts: 32,274
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: sivad02487]
#5394903 - 03/13/06 11:30 AM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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THATS why people use tin foil inside the casing!! i never understood why but that makes amazing sense. I plan on doing this with all my grows,
TIP - with your WBS, i saw a great tek where u boil water, throw in your wbs. and cover/turn off heat. a few hours later come back. your WBS will be at peak water levels, with few exploded seeds. This also rinses your wbs in the "hot water bath". load into jars and PC. You can also do this with your poop. the same tek, the author(agar?? Blue helix??? i cant remember but one of them gods) said to use a big cheap ass Styrofoam cooler. load with near boiling water. load poo into pillowcase. and put in the cooler and cover.
wee bit less time consuming for the lazy folk like me
AGAIN These are not my ideas. I saw them in another tek, i couldn't find them otherwise i would give a link :P
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pcubmycol
flattiefisherman

Registered: 05/23/05
Posts: 747
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Last seen: 15 years, 8 months
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: mushboy]
#5394915 - 03/13/06 11:33 AM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Glad to see its already helping, and thanks for the tip mushboy, never tried that.
Just threw an edit on the main to include #5.
happy trails
-------------------- weretheshit.com is the shit! :-D
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TheLegend
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: Sinthetic]
#5395010 - 03/13/06 11:59 AM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Looks good ... duno about putting the spawn into a pot and shaking it sounds a bit mental to me ... i just use a sterilized spoon (a fork can rip the tinfoil) and put the spawn and poo into the final tub or container that it will fruit in and mix it up and smooth it over with the spoon
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pcubmycol
flattiefisherman

Registered: 05/23/05
Posts: 747
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: TheLegend]
#5395035 - 03/13/06 12:05 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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IMO it doesn't make a difference.. Try it both ways, see if it effects you.
-------------------- weretheshit.com is the shit! :-D
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sivad02487
Stranger
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: pcubmycol]
#5395152 - 03/13/06 12:46 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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you know, just to throw in my .02 if you wanted to make this the PERFECT tek, you should add a materials list. I know all of them are in there, but it's easier to look at a list and see if you have everything but thats just my .02
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pcubmycol
flattiefisherman

Registered: 05/23/05
Posts: 747
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Last seen: 15 years, 8 months
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: sivad02487]
#5395179 - 03/13/06 12:57 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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your right.. most of my other teks have them.. but this one's got some length. I could throw it in there still. Edit later tonight...
-------------------- weretheshit.com is the shit! :-D
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FooMan



Registered: 02/02/05
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: mushboy]
#5395220 - 03/13/06 01:13 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Nice writeup pcub! 
My one bone to pick is about the bird kote. Pennington's WBS with bird kote is what I primarily use. As long as it's simmered and rinsed well, I've never had a problem with it IME.
Quote:
mushboy said: THATS why people use tin foil inside the casing!! i never understood why but that makes amazing sense. I plan on doing this with all my grows,
TIP - with your WBS, i saw a great tek where u boil water, throw in your wbs. and cover/turn off heat. a few hours later come back. your WBS will be at peak water levels, with few exploded seeds. This also rinses your wbs in the "hot water bath". load into jars and PC. You can also do this with your poop. the same tek, the author(agar?? Blue helix??? i cant remember but one of them gods) said to use a big cheap ass Styrofoam cooler. load with near boiling water. load poo into pillowcase. and put in the cooler and cover.
wee bit less time consuming for the lazy folk like me
AGAIN These are not my ideas. I saw them in another tek, i couldn't find them otherwise i would give a link :P
I think I know the links you're talking about
--------------------
Quick WBS Prep
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Drone
Derka Derka Derka


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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: FooMan]
#5395511 - 03/13/06 03:01 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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"Wild Bird Seed acquisition - ~WBS is available at many different places. All you need to do is be sure your WBS is free of chemical additives such as "Bird-kote." These chemicals sometimes hold anti-fungi properties, obviously not good for this hobby. They tend to only be in the more expensive brands. Another good thing to look for is WBS high in millet, and low in sunflower seeds. "Bird-ration" brand has always produced good results for many people IMO, and its only 94 cents for a 4lb bag of it at wally-world."
This is totally false and needs to be taken out. Here is Foomanshrooms wbs tek using penningtons finch seed with "bird-kote"
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/5265629/an/0/page/0
ive used it myself and usually colonize a quart in under 7 days.
edit: ahhhh he beat me to it ! :o
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Edited by Drone (03/13/06 03:02 PM)
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pcubmycol
flattiefisherman

Registered: 05/23/05
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: Drone]
#5395532 - 03/13/06 03:07 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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well thats now written in the post. Ive never used that, but id like to think it would be just as easy if not easier to not worry about the bird-kote at all. If anyone would like to use Fooman's tek... please click the above link.
happy trails
-------------------- weretheshit.com is the shit! :-D
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Drone
Derka Derka Derka


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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: pcubmycol]
#5395539 - 03/13/06 03:10 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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what u need to look for is fungicides that would be listed on the package. bird-kote is just vitamins and minerals for birds. it probly helps the shrooms.
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pcubmycol
flattiefisherman

Registered: 05/23/05
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Last seen: 15 years, 8 months
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: Drone]
#5396017 - 03/13/06 05:43 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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i updated the main post to specify.. Any other tips and tricks to add are welcome, I know you guys have em...
happy trails
-------------------- weretheshit.com is the shit! :-D
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A0999
Disco ish


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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: pcubmycol]
#5396071 - 03/13/06 06:01 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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fuck it. sorry. have fun!
Edited by anarchist0999 (03/13/06 06:17 PM)
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pcubmycol
flattiefisherman

Registered: 05/23/05
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: A0999]
#5396088 - 03/13/06 06:07 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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ha... i knew it was coming.
Im not taking credit for any of that. but it damn sure is a collaboration of information. I learned it all here and id love to pass it on in what seems to be a more detailed way.
Other members have appreciated and helped.
enjoy your impossible concept
-------------------- weretheshit.com is the shit! :-D
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cappa
Nerd
Registered: 02/12/06
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: A0999]
#5396093 - 03/13/06 06:10 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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1. Many of the existing teks have gaps, and assumtions that you have already read suplementary teks. He is doing one from the beginning to the end. Explaining the details without the gaps, and adding tips and tricks from the forums. Hopefully he will give original credit and links to his references in the final writing.
2. You don't have to be an ass about it.
-------------------- Their are 10 types of people. Those that understand binary, and those who don't. ~Cappa.
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A0999
Disco ish


Registered: 09/27/02
Posts: 3,489
Loc: TEXUS
Last seen: 15 years, 10 months
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: pcubmycol]
#5396107 - 03/13/06 06:16 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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innovative, inventive, fresh & new, show these people some shit theyve never seen before.
but, fuck it. have fun!
-------------------- Not necessarily stoned, but beautiful
Edited by anarchist0999 (03/13/06 06:18 PM)
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pcubmycol
flattiefisherman

Registered: 05/23/05
Posts: 747
Loc: Selectively breeding the ...
Last seen: 15 years, 8 months
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Re: My shot to the archives... WBS to POO tek in full [Re: pcubmycol]
#5396118 - 03/13/06 06:22 PM (17 years, 10 months ago) |
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Don't really need any popularity... not that kind of person. but if i had read this tek when i was beginning i would've not screwed up alot of things, as many would agree im sure. Things don't come as easy to some people as they may have to you.
How is this post any more annoying than somebody asking why their jars haven't germinated or the thousands of other newb Qs?
This.. Extinguishes Those. and Thats the point
-------------------- weretheshit.com is the shit! :-D
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