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OfflineFGL
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Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?)
    #5320437 - 02/20/06 03:56 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

What have been your experience guys? :grin: :mushroom2:


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InvisibleFungusMan
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: FGL]
    #5320453 - 02/20/06 03:59 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

Never use just verm unless you have to. Use verm/coir or verm/peat. But dont just use verm...


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OfflineSnaggletooth
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: FGL]
    #5320454 - 02/20/06 03:59 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

I don't think either one is more pron then the other,

The 50/50 tek is better then plain verm, because it proves a better microclimate.


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OfflineNESpores
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: Snaggletooth]
    #5320488 - 02/20/06 04:08 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

what is the problem with just Verm, anyways?
I'm not to educated on the details on casing, that's why I ask.


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Offlinekilgore_trout
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: Snaggletooth]
    #5320493 - 02/20/06 04:09 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

also myc grows through peat and coir much better than it does verm.



do peat and verm. you wont regret it.


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OfflineNESpores
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: NESpores]
    #5320496 - 02/20/06 04:09 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

err, let me add, not just verm, but maybe just peat, or just coir.
know what im sayin?


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InvisibleFungusMan
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: NESpores]
    #5320509 - 02/20/06 04:12 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

Why just one?


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Offlinekilgore_trout
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: NESpores]
    #5320518 - 02/20/06 04:13 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

better to mix peat and verm. verm holds more water, but peat is better texture. peat is better than coir.


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OfflineNESpores
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: kilgore_trout]
    #5320541 - 02/20/06 04:17 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

why NOT just one?
that's what Im asking.
is damp coir/peat to dense and the verm just fluffs it up or what?


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OfflineFGL
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: FungusMan]
    #5320560 - 02/20/06 04:23 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

FungusMan said:
Never use just verm unless you have to. Use verm/coir or verm/peat. But dont just use verm...




Why not?
Ive had many nice flushes ( +5 ) with plain verm before it gets contam... Ive never done 50/50 though...

Dont have peat some nutes anyway?
doesnt that make it more prone to get contaminated?  :rolleyes:


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Offlinebongtoke
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: FGL]
    #5320571 - 02/20/06 04:26 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

who knows WHY just use peat/verm or coir/verm for better flushes..why use one and get shitty flush whern you can use 2 and get a better flush? :smile: problem solved :smile:


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OfflineHypercube
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: bongtoke]
    #5320590 - 02/20/06 04:31 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

Plain verm packs too tightly.

Plain peat doesn't hold enough water.

Neither provide an optimal microclimate on their own.


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InvisibleFungusMan
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: FGL]
    #5320613 - 02/20/06 04:36 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

FGL said:
Quote:

FungusMan said:
Never use just verm unless you have to. Use verm/coir or verm/peat. But dont just use verm...




Why not?
Ive had many nice flushes ( +5 ) with plain verm BEFORE IT GETS CONTAMMED... Ive never done 50/50 though...






Verm is a poor casing in itself. The easiest way to fuck up with plain verm is sealing it with water. If your that concerned, search. Its been discussed NUMEROUS times.


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Invisibleagar
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: FGL] * 1
    #5320904 - 02/20/06 05:47 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

IMHO, the simplest casing cover is a 60/40 (Verm/Coir) casing cover.
(prone to heavily colonizing the whole casing cover).

IMHO, the best casing cover is 50/50 (Peat/chunky~Verm) with the addition of about 5% Coir & about 5% oyster shell flour.

The peat I get is from Canada & very acidic.
With a usual pH ranging from 3.6 to 4.2.

"pH", is a measure to describe the acidity of a medium. pH 7 is neutral; higher means alkaline, lower acidic.

The preferred pH range of a casing mixture is 6.5 to 8.
7.5 is optimal.

Consequently, to achieve an optimal pH range of a PEAT BASED casing mix, the pH must be adjusted accordingly (within the range of 6.5 to 8).

It is generally easier to make casing materials more alkaline (i.e., increasing the pH) than it is to make them more acid (i.e., reducing the pH).

A movement of 0.5 is easy but, because the pH scale is logarithmic, a movement on the order of, 2.0 points becomes more difficult because there is a factor of 10x between each full point, so pH 5.0 is actually 100 times more acid than pH 7.0.

I use HYDRATED LIME (at first), because it is WATER SOLUBLE & very fast acting. Warning, this is hot stuff & can burn your skin & eyes. So, if/when using it, take adequate safety precautions.

After soaking the peat overnight, I test the Ph & add more hydrated lime, if needed, to get the Ph of it into the preferred range (6.5 to 8).

Once the peat Ph is within that range, I drain it.
Then add about an equal amount of chunky Verm.


Which results in a 50/50 mixture.

I then add about 5% hydrated Coir.

I add the Coir, so the casing mix will colonize FASTER.
(Coir contains some nutrients, so myc will colonizer it quickly)

I then add about 5% oyster shell flour.
(as a long term buffering agent).



The object being, to get the total combined ph about 7.5

The pH of the casing must be within certain limits to support strong mycelial growth.

An overly acidic or alkaline casing mixture will depress mycelial growth and supports unwanted competitors.



Then, I bag up the hydrated mixture & nuke it 3 minutes several times.

You want it hydrated to the point, it is fully saturated, but does not drip when you pick up a handful. But, does drip, when you give it a gentle squeeze.

After nuking, I seal the bags tightly with rubber bands & allow the bags to cool over-night.

(note: it is better to have the mixture a little on the wet side. As, when you set the bags upright, excess moisture moves to the bottom of the bag. So, when you apply the mixture, you simply squeeze out any excess moisture, with your hand).



:grin:


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OfflineSnaggletooth
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: agar]
    #5320921 - 02/20/06 05:52 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

Lest see carry the one....   :thumbup:


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Invisibleagar
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: Snaggletooth]
    #5320982 - 02/20/06 06:08 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

Quote:

Snaggletooth said:
Lest see carry the one....   :thumbup:




LOL, ya I know. Numbers do not add correctly. :rolleyes:

So, call it 50/50 + 10 :grin:


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OfflineFGL
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: agar]
    #5321252 - 02/20/06 07:16 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

Nice post Agar :thumbup:

one question:

how much H/lime do you put onto your acidic peat moss to begin?


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Invisibleagar
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: FGL]
    #5321387 - 02/20/06 07:42 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

2 or 3 heaping TABLESPOONS to a 5 gallon bucket 3/4 full of peat & water.
Then, stir.


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OfflineFGL
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Re: Plain verm or 50/50? (more prone to contamination?) [Re: agar]
    #5321410 - 02/20/06 07:50 PM (17 years, 11 months ago)

THANX!!!


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