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Super Fighting Robot

Registered: 04/05/02
Posts: 308
Loc: Earth 25XX
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Overview of Humidifier Setups
    #4258867 - 06/05/05 08:10 AM (13 years, 17 days ago)

"The ultra sonic humidifier can be placed on a timer to control the amount of suspended water droplets that are released into the terrarium. Because the humidifier is turned on and off the humidity in the growing chamber will rise and fall. There is starting to be some evidence that this helps stimulate fruiting."

That is a hell of a quote when I think about it. The subject of a self sustaining setup (normally an affordable and covert) has always interested my friends gardening cans' outer metal layer, which has conscious thought. So it got on its imac and did a little reading.

I would like any of the more experienced to a automated setup to interject anything that would eek in from their own experience, or anything I don't touch upon.
The gardening cans' previous ventures with a automated setup have been poor. He finds that when he breaches the fruiting chambers for a tube, or a gas exchange hole the air-tight environment is compromised. Only for a tube that builds no where near enough Rh or even move the air in a fruiting chamber holding what? about 4-6 12"x4"x7-8" casings. An air exchange hole would further compromise the humidity buildup. Sheer size is a factor, size of everything I mean. The size of fruiting chamber for one. Also the size thickness and length of the tubing connecting any apparatus to the chamber/chambers. Size matters.  :eek:
Air quality becomes a serious factor when experimenting w/ a humidity system. You spend all that time and effort to keep contaminates out of the whole process. So a certain degree of filtration HAS to be included in anything connected to a fruiting chamber. Poly fil, heppa, etc.
Pushing air through a quality filter will take some air pressure! Like a weak humidifier needs anymore of a strain on their air pressure.  :tongue:
A multi-case setup can have quite a time getting humidified from a single cool mist/ultra sonic. Dual plus air pumps w/ hepa filters seems to be the standard on a greenhouse or automated setups. One feels so inclined to ask if the same concept would work on multiple bulk tek fruiting chambers. Full auto and all the works.

I mean why not? I do suspect (only going to suspect, not an expert yet) that the quality and success of a good bulk grow is that the atmosphere is limited to the fruiting chamber, and whatever gas is exchanged manually by the procurer [i.e. fancy man]. The one tupp style bulk grows (like shroomgodz straw tek in a 70L tupp, or chemists in the 110L[?]) humidity is self sustained by the chemical and pure organic activity. Optimum temp conditions and proper moisture content of casing materials can produce this self-humidifying effect. Implementing gas exchange and light is all that is needed to complete the atmospheric cycle.

So we have an area of the cycle to fill. Seeing as if we can also add the ability to decrease or increase the humidity. Lets say, if a case is doing poorly sustaining enough Rh on its own to grow to maximum efficiency, or even just a proper rate. That would be a plus. :thumbup:
So here are a few humidifier ideas for cakes and cases. In each individual setup variables occur, blah, blah. The point is each factor that is present can be tweaked or modified to allow for more positive results. If anyone has anything beneficial to add that would be great, any criticism will be encouraged as well.  :grin:

Taken from Indoor Mushroom Growing Technique for The Boil-O-Bag by D.H. Jarrold

"Here are some pictures to help you make an easy self humidifying chamber, most things to make the chamber can be obtained from local hardware shops, and the plastic car registration plate nuts & bolts from car accessory shops. All that is needed to keep the tank humid is an air stone, some tube and a small aquarium air pump. Simply make a small hole near the top of the tank and feed the pipe through to the water container, attach the air brick and pump. The inner angled drip lids are simply shaped 2mm plastic sheet.

These two pictures show how to make a warm humid air delivery chamber, this is very useful for those who live in a cold climate, or want to grow at cold times of the year. All of the connection ducts are potential outlets & the large duct is the main input. The container is filled with a few inches of water and with the like and input fan fitted ready to use, it may take you a few hours to set the water heaters timer to get the desired humidity temperature, when you have achieved this, plumb (plug?) in the growing chambers and away you go!"

Fungusmaximus's HOMER

"This is MY definition of what homer means.
HOMER fully automated system, including misting, air exchange, light, and proper temperatures for maintaining fungi species.
I am not the creator of this ?HOMER? system. If I remember correctly it was CapitanMarx ?? I believe  blush.gif
I simply saw his setup named ?Scaleable Homer TEK? and made something similar. He never gave instructions or details of this setup. I pretty much had to wing it and design my own. I basically just used the idea of fully automated inter-connected bins.

First off Id like to start with maintenance of your mist maker, fogging unit.
Up keep on the unit is essential to its operation and longevity. You must only use DISTILLED WATER in your fog reservoir. If you use tap or mineral water your mist maker will last about 2 months before its fried.
Remember to buy replacement parts when ordering your mist maker. Mine requires new parts once a month after a month of daily use. Replacement parts are 1-3$

Here is the mist maker set up you will need, it includes: a mist maker unit, a buoy, and a splash guard. The buoy keeps the unit afloat at the proper depth for fog production.

Here are some pics of a dirty unit. A dirty mist maker.

Dirty internal parts.

Open the buoy.

Dirty Styrofoam from inside the buoy, bacterial growth.

Now, you must keep the water inside your fog reservoir clean. Bleach and peroxide are a no no! The only thing I recommend to keep the water clean and not harm the fog unit, is IODINE.

Add two drops per gallon of h20. I use 2.5 - 3 gallons of water in a 5-gallon bucket as a reservoir for the fog unit.

What prompted me to rebuild a new homer? Well it was because the first design took up allot of space and was awkward in my odd closet. And I was given a new greenhouse that would not fit inside the closet. I took the old 3 level greenhouse and cleaned it up good. Then I did the same with the new greenhouse, which was only two levels/shelves. Then I stacked em on top of each other. This was a problem since I didn't have a plastic covering to cover the newly created greenhouse shelving system.
So I used a commercial grade mildew resistant shower curtain. I first split it in half and covered the remaining exposed area. The top half I used the original greenhouse covering. Since my greenhouse would not fit in the closet without wasting space to access the door, I made a new one from the side.

I used industrial strength Velcro to attach the 2nd half of the curtain to the new door.
Here is a side view.

Velcro shower curtain.

Now here it is fitting perfectly into the closet space

The bottom of the house is lined w/ perlite. The house sets on top of a Rubbermaid container lid, to catch dripping water. You may have noticed the greenhouse is elevated off the ground. This is helpful in keeping dirt etc from entering the open bottom.The bottom of the house is lined w/ perlite. The house sets on top of a Rubbermaid container lid, to catch dripping water.

Now, the fog unit consists of a 5-gal bucket with the mist maker inside.
And a filtered air unit.
Mist makers/ foggers don't make any air movement so you have to push the fog to move it.
It doesn't take much air at all to move the fog. You will want the air to be clean since it is going into your clean fruiting areas. The fan is mounted inside a 5 gal. Water dispenser container, I call it a culligan. So now you have two parts of the fogger unit. A culligan fan and a fog reservoir.
connect the two and attach an out put hose to you bins and greenhouse.
Here are the homer bins sitting on shelves across from the greenhouse.
You don't want a ton of fog pouring out of the output hoses. Too much and you will saturate anything inside the fruiting area.

Notice the timer for the fogger unit. Duration for your custom setup is, well.. custom. You will have to play with it to figure it out for your setup.

Here is the fog reservoir (bottom) and culligan fan (top) with black corrugated sewer hose (new) connecting the units. Timer and inter connecting PVC piping to the greenhouse and bins.

OK I attached clear plastic tubing to connect the bins so I needed a nipple to connect the two; I used rubber gloves to attach the nipples to the PVC. That way they are multi directional.

Here is the connection to the greenhouse.

Inside the house, a kitchen sink size plumbing PVC distributes the fog.

The fog cascades downward over the shelving unit.
Here it is in action.

Here is a look at what the fog output hoses should look like when operational. Not much fog is needed.

Here is a final shot of the outside of the closet. I still have enough room to enter the closet and shut the door. Before I couldn?t get inside at all. I placed a small stand inside w/ a hepa unit. This pushes clean air around inside the tiny closet, enough to improve air exchange inside the greenhouse and inside the bins.

Closet Homer Completed.


Q: It's not really necessary to have the PVC outlet for the fog through, right?
I have little tubes like the one you have of the fog coming out of it hooked up to all of my terrariums (I have an isolated terrarium setup). Do you think that would be enough for homer style mist/humidity?
A:ts better to have a large channel for the fog to pass thru and channel down to a hose. If the channel is too small, you will need more fan pressure to push it. You want it to be a slow sluggish type fog flow. But if you are only doing a couple bins the small tube wont matter. You will have plenty of fog to do what you need.

Q: I assume you will have to change the perlite (at the bottom) every so often, how long you reckon between changing? Weekly maybe, or by the flush?
A: I don't change the perlite. I wet it down with strong bleach water once in a great while. For the most part it stays too dry cept around the edges to sustain any growth. I wet it once in a while, but there is really no need. It just serves as a water "catch". Another note: I have yet to grow a single contam in the greenhouse in all months of using it. No joke.

Q: Do you have to disconnect the pvc pipe that provides mist into each bin to pick or can you just slide the terrarium out?
A:  Well the pvc connects to clear rubber hose that connects to a nozzle mounted on the bin. But yea they will slide out since the rubber hose is bend-able.

Q: I am curious what you are using for a fan though. Any idea what kind of air exchange rate you are getting? Also, I assume you can't just pack those shelves full, you have to leave room for the air to circulate down between trays, right?
A: I'm using a holmes hepa unit to push the fog. And yes I pack those shelves plum full! No worries about circulating air LOL, this setup is nothing but air!
Hell the other day I fell asleep and forgot to close the plastic curtain on the greenhouse!  Didn't notice till almost 24 hours later.
I have the timer on 30 min cycles every 3 hours, yes every 3. I also have another fog inlet at the 3rd shelf to even out the moisture. My setup stay basically the same but I'm always adding new things and replacing old ideas.
To combat the dripping inside, I normally don't have to worry about it. Although when I get those strains that bruise easy, malabars, strophoria, tex, thai's etc. I use non-woven plat covers to prevent the droplets from hitting the shrooms and myc/ It still allows plenty of air and RH just keeps em dry.

Q: I didn't see anything on heat source...Could you tell me any good ways. Would the fish tank heater work?
A:  You don't need any heat man...
unless your house is really cold, a light bulb in the closet is all the heat I have. I keep the light off most of the time. Mushies are more potent when grown in cooler temps, although the growth rate is slower.
Buy a hepa unit from walmart for 30-40$ that's what I use...

Here is a rough diagram of the basic layout for those who dint understand."

Scalable Homer Tek

"OK, don't ask me where I got this or who's responsible. Finer points include:

HEPA filtered, compressed air supply, bubbled through clean water

All off-the-shelf parts available from Wally World and a popular home supply store whose mascot is, by the look of it, quite a stoner himself (why are Homer's eyes never visible? You tell ME... ha...)

Rubbermaid HiTop containers, because they're the right size for isolation of contams and decent yield, easy to clean, and seal reasonably well compared to their snap-top counterparts

If there's interest I'll post the particulars of this system's construction. You need an air compressor or some way of forcing air past a HEPA and through the laterals.

Very clean, very turn-key. Tops come off only to harvest."

An air compressor can humidify 6 tubs thru one bucket of water, and hepa in the pvc pipe. No other specifications were released.

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Registered: 03/05/05
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Re: Overview of Humidifier Setups [Re: Lapius]
    #4259205 - 06/05/05 10:53 AM (13 years, 17 days ago)

What are your average wet yields using this tek per flush, based on the holding capacity?

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Retired Shroomery Mod
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Registered: 12/11/01
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Re: Overview of Humidifier Setups [Re: Lapius]
    #4259268 - 06/05/05 11:17 AM (13 years, 17 days ago)

thats pretty f#cking nice bro!~

and a little too intense for me.


Laterz, Road

Who the hell you callin crazy?
You wouldn't know what crazy was if Charles Manson was eating froot loops on your front porch!

Brainiac said:
PM the names with on there names, that means they have mushrooms for sale.

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Super Fighting Robot

Registered: 04/05/02
Posts: 308
Loc: Earth 25XX
Last seen: 4 years, 4 months
Re: Overview of Humidifier Setups [Re: Wronguy]
    #4265447 - 06/06/05 10:25 PM (13 years, 16 days ago)

Setting up for function is coming about now. Since the gardening can's work area mimics Fungusmaximus' it has been emulating the setup. As in each setup, it takes a lot of tweaking, so no word yet.

If you would like, I can post pictures of the fruits Fungus got from what I believe was his first actual application of it. Not so much sure it is a real serious fruiting machine, or isn't. What I know it does or the "idea of" what it should do. Which is create the air exchange current, and deposit Rh practically on & around the casing top layer, fully automated and on timers. Hopefully temp controlled too.

Try to get those pics up tho, things have been, not gud..

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a more natural self-sustaining setup [Re: Lapius]
    #4308924 - 06/17/05 10:04 PM (13 years, 5 days ago)

very nice post and informative. the structure of the above post is worth mentioning too. time well spent.

living in an area were mushrooms grow wild has really sparked my interest in this for sometime; although i've never really given it much thought until now. i'm lacking some research at the moment, but i figure a good place to start would be looking into greenhouse and terrarium experiments. most of the posts i looked through on terrariums and greenhouses involved multiple tiers and more techy setups. i'm a tech person so this doesn't bother me. i'm just going for a more decorative and natural look to my setup. all the while performing a little science project to achieve the mushroom's natural enviorment.

the idea involves using plants, to provide humidity and air exchange. i don't know as much about agriculture and plants as i would like to, so suggestions in this area would be a huge help.

reiteration: the main goal of this project is to emulate nature in a way that the only effort required to grow the mushrooms would be watering the plants and maintenance to avoid contamination and/or other problems.

i imagine similar experiments were conducted by the pioneers of growing mushrooms. however, that was way before my time; and i'm not sure if, or how much data was recorded on these experiments.

i think contamination is a big issue here. not having full control over the whole process could easily lead to contamination. since i don't plan on using fully colonized cakes, at least not for the final state of this self-sustaining setup. it will probably take the use pre-colonized mycelium to get things started tho.

my big question is how would i achieve the reproduction of these mushrooms? will spores that randomly fall onto some kind medium be successful? multiple mediums to be tested for this so suggestions would help. i know this is how it works in the wild, but like i said before, i want to achieve this on a small scale; and in the wild there are elements such as wind and a lot of room that i think really help the spread and success of spores. so, i'm thinking a fan may be necessary. this is a start.

yield is not very important as this is being done for personal use and on a small scale (1 - 2 cakes worth at most). however, if successful i see no need why this can't be done on a larger scale as well. the enclosure will be something like a large fish bowl or pre-made terrarium. i'm thinking something in the range of 1-2 feet in diameter.

lapius, i would like to collaborate a little with you on both our projects. perhaps through in a live conversation. bare with me tho. i often get caught up in doing many other things and don't usually read certain forums on a daily basis.it's been ages since i've visited the shroomery. last summer it was all i did, hehe.

off topic: to those who put this forum together you guys own. posting here with so many options is making other forums look quite primitive  . as a hobbiest web designer, i'm am really impressed. :thumbup:

Edited by An0n (06/17/05 10:10 PM)

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OfflineDeus Fungorum

Registered: 04/02/07
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Re: a more natural self-sustaining setup [Re: An0n]
    #6807425 - 04/19/07 05:20 AM (11 years, 2 months ago)

lol, that setup is fucking nuts. Perlite anyone?

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Dead Gone Forgotten

Registered: 11/11/05
Posts: 6,881
Re: Overview of Humidifier Setups [Re: Lapius]
    #6807971 - 04/19/07 11:28 AM (11 years, 2 months ago)

Mabey not quite what you're talking about, but this is my setup:

Fresh air is supplied constaintly via the dry cool mist. I understand that the extra pressure I'm placing on the Vic's unit will burn the motor out. I'm on the third grow with it and it's still running strong. If/when it dies, I'll either A-buy a squrrel cage fan, or B- drill additional holes in the tubs and ditch the forced fresh air. I'm currently testing one tub with passive air exchange to see how it goes.

The ultrasonic is controlled with a timer switch, and I usually run it 2 minutes on 20-30 minutes off. The output for each branch is controlled by outlet size. Each outlet up is larger than the one below it. First outlet is 3/8" diameter, last outlet is wide open at 3/4".

The RH stays up around 99 constaintly, though the tub does clear about 5 minutes after the ultrasonic turns off. Playing with the timer cycle could give me a RH drop, though the plan was to keep it in the high 90's at all times. Would be intrested in what kind of RH drop you're looking for... and what your yields are.


comfort pleasure power love truth awareness peace

“Walking around 6 million years ago. Looking kind of human 1 million years ago. Writing things down 6 thousand years ago.”

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Registered: 06/28/11
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Re: Overview of Humidifier Setups [Re: Lapius]
    #14684350 - 06/28/11 05:25 AM (6 years, 11 months ago)

"------ SUPERB ------" I can not do. Thank you

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Bans for Pleasure
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Re: Overview of Humidifier Setups [Re: Lapius]
    #14684757 - 06/28/11 05:25 AM (6 years, 11 months ago)

This thread has been closed.

Necromancy.  Let 4 year old dead threads remain dead.

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