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OfflineUnderhillmaster
The LemonProphet

Registered: 02/10/05
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Which of these should I use as a PH buffer?
    #3898275 - 03/10/05 05:08 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

I just got back from the local garden center and I got some hydrated lime. They had limestone in a pellet form, which was 90% calcium carbonate, but I am not sure about using pellet form. No oyster shell was available. The only other things I can find locally are Pickling lime and I could make my own powdered eggshell. Which of these would be best to used for my casing mix of peat/verm? Also, which would be best for my bulk substrate? Also, is pellet form acceptable? maybe if I get a mortar and pestle and make my own limestone flour? You won't hurt my feelings if you put down your amounts you use of PH buffer, or how much you think I should use. Thanks for your help.


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If you cut off my head, what would I say? Me and my head, or me and my body?


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Offlinedjsage420
aka DJQBNSIS
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Registered: 02/15/05
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Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: Underhillmaster]
    #3898384 - 03/10/05 05:27 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

Pellets are fine just crush or grind it into a finer powder, the hydrated lime is the best in my opinion, you can also buy a bottle of calcium in the vitamin isle just make sure it says calcium as calcium carbonate on it just crush the pills and add it. you can also use chalk :smile:


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If you put your head to the grass, you can hear it growing


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Invisibleagar
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Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: Underhillmaster]
    #3898522 - 03/10/05 05:49 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

"pH", is a measure to describe the acidity of a medium.
pH 7 is neutral; higher means alkaline, lower acidic.

Peat is a major constituent of preferred casing mixes. The pH of peat is variable, dependent on the source it came from. Meaning, the pH of peat differs from various sources. The preferred pH range of a casing mixture is 6.5 to 8. 7.5 is optimal.

Peat is acidic. Consequently, to achieve an optimal pH range of a casing mix, the pH of the casing mixture must be adjusted accordingly (within the range of 6.5 to 8).

The pH of the casing must be within certain limits to support strong mycelial growth. An overly acidic or alkaline casing mixture will depress mycelial growth and supports unwanted competitors.

It is generally easier to make casing materials more alkaline (i.e., increasing the pH) than it is to make them more acid (i.e., reducing the pH).

A movement of 0.5 is easy but, because the pH scale is logarithmic, a movement on the order of, 2.0 points becomes more difficult because there is a factor of 10x between each full point, so pH 5.0 is actually 100 times more acid than pH 7.0.

There are several common types of lime available for use, though care should be exercised with all of the products. Lime is caustic and a skin and eye irritant and can be dangerous if misused. If you choose to use such products, carefully read and follow all manufacturer directions exactly. The major types of lime products include:

Hydrated Lime: fast acting, but not long lasting. It is very effective to produce a fast change in pH level. It is also the "strongest" form of lime generally available, and you must follow all manufacturer precautions, since your skin and eyes can be easily irritated or burned if the product is misused.

Ground Limestone: a naturally occurring type of limestone that has been ground to a fine powder. How quickly it will act to modify pH and how long it will persist depends on how finely it was ground.

Generally, ground limestone is weaker than hydrated lime, needing about 30% more to raise the pH by the same amount. It has the advantage, however, of usually being significantly cheaper than the hydrated lime, and usually works more slowly and lasts much longer.

Mixed Lime: usually sold under a brand name. Most brands contain a variety of particle sizes to provide some immediate benefits, as well as a longer persistence. (this is often referred to as "time released" lime).

pH gradually falls to less than optimal by the end of cropping due to acids secreted by the mushroom mycelium. Consequently, a long lasting buffering agent is preferable.

If you wish to achieve optimal results when adjusting pH, it is highly advisable to use litmus strips (with color chart), or acquire a pH test probe (available at most garden supply stores, under $20) to accurately test, and adjust the pH of your casing mix, prior to application.

Doing all other cultivation steps properly, then applying a casing mixture outside the proper pH range, most often creates poor cropping results.


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Offlinebounceproof
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Registered: 02/24/05
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Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: agar]
    #3898575 - 03/10/05 05:55 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

Agar that was very informative. Learned allot from that reply. It is people like you that make this such an informative and enjoyable website. Thank you for the time that you spent on that.
Just some input from a Noob


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Invisibleagar
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Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: bounceproof]
    #3898806 - 03/10/05 06:44 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

If you ever bump into .. THIS STUFF it is most optimal buffer I have ever found for both instant adjustment & longer term buffering agent :thumbup:.


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InvisibleGlassOnion
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Registered: 06/23/04
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Loc: Antartica
Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: agar]
    #3899135 - 03/10/05 07:39 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

Does anyone know if this stuff will work as a PH buffer? It says its pure calcium carbonate but ive never heard of anyone using it..



Edited by GlassOnion (03/10/05 07:40 PM)


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InvisiblePrisoner#1M
Even Dumber ThanAdvertized!
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Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: GlassOnion]
    #3899142 - 03/10/05 07:43 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

yes, thats most suitable for a buffer.


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InvisibleGlassOnion
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Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: Prisoner#1]
    #3899148 - 03/10/05 07:45 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

should i grind it up? its pretty fine but there are some small chunks


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Offlinescatmanrav
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Registered: 05/08/04
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Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: GlassOnion]
    #3899712 - 03/10/05 09:37 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

The finer the better...should be like flour if you can get it that fine.


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"life is like a drop of rain getting closer and closer to falling into a lake, and then when you hit the lake there is no more rain drop, only the lake."

Growing with bags, start to finish (including my new grain and substrate prep)
Anyone looking to start bulk tubs/mono tubs/shotgun hybrids? Good tubs to use..
How I do grain (old still good tips)
Turn your closet into a fruiting chamber
Casing layer colonization and overlay


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OfflineUnderhillmaster
The LemonProphet

Registered: 02/10/05
Posts: 414
Loc: Parts Unknown
Last seen: 8 years, 7 months
Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: scatmanrav]
    #3899730 - 03/10/05 09:41 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

Ok, looks like I should probably get the limestone pellets and find a way to grind finely. If you use hydrated lime, do you need to reapply at anytime since it is not long lasting?


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If you cut off my head, what would I say? Me and my head, or me and my body?


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Offlinescatmanrav
Brainy Smurf

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Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: Underhillmaster]
    #3899810 - 03/10/05 09:55 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

No you need to add in something like powdered oyster shells at the beginning which will, over time, break down and keep the casing neutral. Hydrated lime is added to just get the casing to 7 in the first place.


--------------------
"life is like a drop of rain getting closer and closer to falling into a lake, and then when you hit the lake there is no more rain drop, only the lake."

Growing with bags, start to finish (including my new grain and substrate prep)
Anyone looking to start bulk tubs/mono tubs/shotgun hybrids? Good tubs to use..
How I do grain (old still good tips)
Turn your closet into a fruiting chamber
Casing layer colonization and overlay


Post Extras: Print Post  Remind Me! Notify Moderator
OfflineUnderhillmaster
The LemonProphet

Registered: 02/10/05
Posts: 414
Loc: Parts Unknown
Last seen: 8 years, 7 months
Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: scatmanrav]
    #3899835 - 03/10/05 10:01 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

Can't get oyster shell locally. Would the limestone pellets ground into a powder perform the long term function? It is 90% calcium carbonate. Btw, is vermiculite Ph neutral out of the bag?


--------------------
If you cut off my head, what would I say? Me and my head, or me and my body?


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Offlinescatmanrav
Brainy Smurf

Registered: 05/08/04
Posts: 11,483
Loc: Flag
Last seen: 3 years, 10 months
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Re: Which of these should I use as a PH buffer? [Re: Underhillmaster]
    #3899860 - 03/10/05 10:08 PM (11 years, 8 months ago)

Yes it will and yes it is.


--------------------
"life is like a drop of rain getting closer and closer to falling into a lake, and then when you hit the lake there is no more rain drop, only the lake."

Growing with bags, start to finish (including my new grain and substrate prep)
Anyone looking to start bulk tubs/mono tubs/shotgun hybrids? Good tubs to use..
How I do grain (old still good tips)
Turn your closet into a fruiting chamber
Casing layer colonization and overlay


Post Extras: Print Post  Remind Me! Notify Moderator
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Amazon Shop for: Agar, Calcium Carbonate, Oyster Shell, Peat, Scales, Vermiculite, pH Test Strips

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