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Offlineshroomtoad
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Registered: 02/23/05
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Experiment using the kare kono and bulk substrate techs.
    #3829304 - 02/24/05 09:20 PM (12 years, 3 months ago)

Hail all fellow shroomsters!I received my spores from spore bank today.  I plan to do the bulk tech, at: http://www.shroomery.org/index/par/23534/sty/print/spl/0/par/23534/ , and the Kare Kono tech.  (But with my own changes).  Thought I'd throw my plan out for others to view and to give me any feed back on how to better my experiment.  But for the most part I'll keep you updated on my processes, and progress.

First I ordered two syringes of the B+ strand. I took two cc's to make 200 cc's of mycelium solution with the following tutorial: NOTE: (this is someone Else's POST!, I'm just borrowing it to explain my procedure)

STEP 1 - week and a half

Kare Kono - 200ml liquid mycelium
supplies your going to need:
1 package of small microwavable containers
1 bottle cheap imitation light syrup
1 package cheap plastic wrap
1) pour about 200ml's of water (around 5 ounces) into the container.
2) add a teaspoon or two of light syrup to the water
3) put a piece of plastic wrap over the top of the container, and then put the lid on top of that 4) microwave the container, with the lid slightly cracked for 5 Minutes . when its done nuking, open your microwave and push the lid down so its all sealed in there (care full, its hot)
5) let cool for a few hours, or until it is room temperature again, and then lift up the lid slowly, flame sterilize your syringe, and inject through the plastic wrap 1 - 2cc's of your left over spore solution.
6) toss these guys in your incubator (I'm using a double tub setup), put em in a dark area between 80 and 86 degrees.
7) after a few days you should start to see some myc. growth in the solution. after about a week and a half your container should have mycelium in it.
8.) shake the containers around every few days and let the water sloshing break up the myc. no need for glass chunks.
9.) when your ready to inoculate, just lift up the lid, and poke the needle of your sterile syringe through the plastic wrap and suck up how much ever juice you need.
10.) AFTER the spores have germinated several cc's of peroxide (about 5 or so for that much water) should be added through the inoculation hole. The peroxide prevents con tams and speeds up colonization by adding 02 to the karo solution.

STEP 2 - 18 days

Spawn
1.) A quart of birdseed spawn. Birdseed rinsed clean several times in cold water, sunflower seeds float and are easily poured off from the rest of the BS).
2.) Boil an excess of water first. Reduce heat once boiling.
4.) the Seed is simmered on low for 30 minutes (no more since we will be adding peroxide later and don?t want too much moisture).
5.) The grain is strained, rinsed and dried thoroughly before being loaded into the quart jar, ? full. The lid has a filter disc in it, but poly fill, or even coffee filters or cardboard can be substituted since we will be adding peroxide later.
6) The jar is pressure cooked to sterilize and also destroy peroxide decomposing enzymes.
7.) 5 hours later, When cool, the quart is injected with 12 cc?s peroxide, and shaken. 
8.) Place all of the following items into the Glove Box.

A.) spore syringes x2 and 200ml
B.) Prepared Birdseed in one-quart mason jars (wide mouth = 90mm).
C.) Plastic lids with a 1/2" hole drilled into it. 
D.) 90mm Filters.
E.) Small dish of alcohol with the filters in it.
F.) An alcohol soaked paper towel.
G.) Plastic container 1 of 3 that will all fit inside a large tub all with lids.

9.) Loosen the pressure out of the grain jars but, do not take the lid off!
10.) take the syringes and heat up the needles to kill contaminants.
11.) I was going to then inoculate about three or four jars with the two syringes as well as the 200ml of mycelium solution from the Kare kono tech. 
14.) Now you are going to take one filter out of its alcohol filled dish and lift the lid off of a grain jar while simultaneously replacing it with the filter.  Take a plastic lid and tighten it down over the filter and onto the jar of grain.
15.) Wait 30 minutes and take the jars out of the Glove Box and begin turning the grain and the mycelium. 
16.) Place this in a converted Poor Boys Incubator.
17.) In about 4-7 days you should be seeing growth in your inoculated grain.  What you should do next is break-up and rotate the grain again.  Set it back into the Incubator and watch closely for contamination signs. 
18.) Colonization is complete in a week with temps around 80 deg F.
19.) Prepare A more birdseed using same instructions above. Peroxide amount is proportional to that listed above.
20.) In the flow hood, Dump both the inoculated quart jar and the new birdseed into the tub and seal the lid. (I have 3 non air-tight tubs.) 
21.) I'm going to try to fill each of the clean tubs and then place them into a bigger tub.
22.) There is enough room inside the large tub to put a large aquarium heater, inside a vase.  I'm hoping that this will be enough to incubate the 3 tubs inside.  I want to see if at 86 degrees the box with recolonize in 11 days.



STEP 3 - 1 day

Bulk Substrate Prep
Materials
Oven, oven safe bags, bulk substrate, water, tape (or string), meat thermometer.
Preparation
1) You will first want to pre-heat your oven to about 300F.
2) Next, load your oven bag with the desired amount of bulk substrate. the substrate is about 6 inches deep and 2 feet by 2 feet, I think that is pretty close to 2 cubic feet of straw and dung.( quart per square foot) loaded with straw and aged cow dung appearing to be about 75% straw 25% dung by volume.  Make sure that your straw/dung has been thoroughly dried before loading. This gets rid of some of the harmful bacteria, and is more likely to achieve full pasteurization. add some vermiculite. I don't believe it will be wanted with wheat straw. It is basically there to hold a little more water within the substrate, as well as keeping it fluffier and less dense. You can add 10%-30% vermiculite. Its also a good way to add volume to your bulk substrate.
3) Next, it is time to add water to your substrate. What is great about using oven bags, is that you will not have excess water from submerging a pillowcase into water. You will only add the amount of water that you need. However, it is recommended that you add tad bit more water due the evaporation during the baking time.
Water is the key ingredient into your substrate. You will want enough to keep it hydrated through a few flushes, yet, you do not want it overly wet so it doesn't cause any sort of contamination. A "field consistency" is the optimum water ratio into the substrate. It is a little more wet than damp. When you take a handful of the substrate, and you squeeze your fist as hard as you can, and a little trickle of water runs out of your fingers, you know you have added enough water.
4) Now that you have your straw/compost/dung all hydrated, all you need to do now is to tie off the top of the oven bag and then place a thermometer through the top, like so:
5.) Baking - During the baking process, you will need to attend to your oven to check the thermometer for about the first hour. It is very important that you do not allow the temperature inside the bag to get above 185F! Once your thermometer has reached the temperature of about 170-180, turn down the oven to about 190-200F.
Due to the fact that this is dry heat, and the process of pasteurization will be slightly slower, you will need to bake your bag for about 2-3 hours. I would recommend 3 hours, and 2 if you are really restricted on time.
6.) After your 3 hours are up, you will want to carefully (with oven mitts) take the bag out of the oven, take out the thermometer and tie off the top completely. Allow to cool for about 12 hours, or however long it takes for your bag to cool down. Once it is cool, you are able to get back to work and spawn with grain.
7.) Also make some extra substrate, using only dung.

STEP 4 - 14 days

Spawning bulk sub
1.) The cooled dung/straw is mixed with the tub of grain spawn and put onto a fruiting shelf. Compress the dung straw as much as you can by hand, then add the top dung layer.
2.) Fruiting shelf is a small shelf covered in clear plastic, with several levels for the three tubs.  It Also has a cool mist humidifier with two hoses going trough the top of the plastic, so it can mist inside the plastic to all 3 shelves.
3.) spread The extra dung from with the remaining grain spawn and layered about ? inch deep on top. The dung top layer helps to protect the straw from con tams and moisture loss. Often large chunks of casing are removed with fruits, exposing the substrate below. With straw becoming exposed, this can be a bigger problem than if dung gets exposed.
4.) SPORE RUN: The mixture colonizes quickly due to the dung and the large amount of spawn. Colonization time is just over a week. Let the dung/straw colonize at room temp (75?F) for 10 to 14 days. Allow to sit in the dark to colonize.



STEP 5 - 14 days

Casing
Procedure: substrate is covered with a non-nutritive layer such as peat, vermiculite, coco coir or different mixtures of the previous with various additives. Casing is a simple process: You layer and level the substrate to an appropriate container and cover with your casing layer.
1.) A casing of 25% verm and 75% peat (by volume) is prepared as follows.
2.) The verm is baked in an over for 30 minutes at 200 ish.
3.) The coir is hydrated in a bowl with boiling hot water.
4.) The two are mixed, a dash of lime (Bag from nursery/walmart etc simply la bled "lime") is added to bring the pH to about 7.8 and the mixture is hydrated to field capacity. The casing mixture colonizes rapidly as is the norm with coir, but retains moisture much better than coir alone. Do not pack the casing mix down!
5.) CASING RUN - This is when the casing will begin to colonize another 14 days probably. allow to sit in dark until you want it to start fruiting.


STEP 6 - when ever the fruits are done (21 days or more?)

Fruiting
1.) I'm gonna turn on a blue light every once in a while.  Pins show in a few days. Once pins are noticed, care is taken to not disturb them.
2.) lighting continues while fruits mature. No attention is paid to environmental parameters other than the cool air misting and occasional light when the shelf is checked on, at typical room temperatures.
3.) pick anything I get without touching the casing. All fruits will be harvested before committing the sin of over maturation. A tip is to water the casing surface just before harvest. This helps to minimize the chunks of casing that are pulled up with the fruits if the casing has dried out.

yeah i know I'm using allot of the other techs, but I did some modifications and I hope it'll work.  I'll update you on the progress.  now you can give your comments on how pathetic i am, I'm used to it on here.    :mushroom2:


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Nature is our true lord, embrace it.


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Offlineshroomtoad
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Registered: 02/23/05
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Last seen: 10 years, 9 months
Re: Experiment using the kare kono and bulk substrate techs. [Re: shroomtoad]
    #3832155 - 02/25/05 10:38 AM (12 years, 3 months ago)

hmm, guess its too long to read?  :confused:


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Offlinejiggac
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Registered: 07/24/10
Posts: 2
Last seen: 5 years, 2 months
Re: Experiment using the kare kono and bulk substrate techs. [Re: shroomtoad]
    #12949732 - 07/25/10 12:59 PM (6 years, 10 months ago)

I read it!! Let me know how it goes. I may do something very similar but it a few monotubs.


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Offlinepunkin
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Registered: 01/29/10
Posts: 361
Loc: Northern NSW Orstrayllya Flag
Last seen: 1 year, 2 months
Re: Experiment using the kare kono and bulk substrate techs. [Re: jiggac]
    #12950368 - 07/25/10 03:26 PM (6 years, 10 months ago)

Talk about raising the dead.... :goodnight:


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Mushrooms, Mycology and Psychedelics >> Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms

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