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OfflineMycelium5150
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Registered: 04/06/99
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Last seen: 16 years, 9 months
Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!!
    #3819121 - 02/22/05 10:35 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

This is a copy of the casing instructions for my ports and buttons from mushroomadventires.com. Most of us know that these mushrooms require a non sterile casing unlike cubes which you can grow with or without sterilization but the moisture issues are the same. The reason for this is because i see that most people here have their casing too thin and too dry. I understand that when one is learning it is easier for them to have thin/dry casing but this results in having a casing that is more like a giant cake. The casing is not doing its job to the fullest. There is nothing like seeing mushrooms push up threw the casing instead of growing on top of it. Thick wet casings tend to be lees disease prone. The interesting points are in BOLD. My notes are in italics

Welcome to mushroom growing. This mushroom growing kit was designed to let you grow mushrooms at home. It contains all the necessary components to grow several crops of mushrooms over an 8 to 12 week period of time. The mushroom compost has already been prepared and inoculated with the white colored mushroom mycelium (A moldy looking fungus) at the mushroom farm. All you need to do is follow the instructions below and you should have weeks of fun and enjoyment as you harvest one mushroom after another.

Depending on the mushroom variety, the first of the mushrooms are ready to be picked within 3 to 5 weeks after starting the mushroom growing kit. Generally the first crop of mushrooms is the largest, consisting of 35 to 60% of the fruiting mushrooms. Each crop thereafter usually becomes smaller; fruiting fewer and fewer mushrooms, until the kit stops. The mushroom crop fruits at intervals of approximately 10 to 30 days, temperature and variety of mushroom will cause this to vary somewhat. Mushrooms fruit faster at warmer temperature and slower at cooler temperatures. Mushrooms fruit at temperatures between 60 to 74 degrees F. The best quality and quantity of mushrooms are grown between the temperatures of 63 to 68 degrees F. Constant temperatures higher than 74 degrees usually prevent mushrooms from growing, and temperatures over 86 degrees for several hours can kill the mushroom mycelium (the fungus). Cooler temperatures below 55 degrees retard or stop the growth of mushrooms. Freezing temperatures will kill some mushroom varieties, but not all.

The quantity of mushrooms this kit will produce will vary. The larger the size of the mushrooms the fewer of them will grow, the opposite is also true, the smaller the size of the mushroom the more of them will grow. Mushroom variety will also affect yields.

Follow all directions completely and save these instructions for later reference.


Start your kit. Open the box and remove these instructions and the bag of dry peat moss called casing. Leave the large bag of compost inside the box. The compost may appear brown if newly inoculated with spawn, or if it is mature, it will look frosty white or moldy, as the mushroom mycelium grows through it. If the compost is brown and newly inoculated, close the kit up and keep it at 70 degrees for 7-10 days, before adding the peat moss casing layer. You will notice that the bag of compost is not sealed closed this is to allow the mushroom fungus to breathe. If you do not plan on starting the kit immediately, simply fold the plastic bag back down on to itself and close up the box the way it was before you opened it. This kit is designed to be started immediately, a short delay of a week or two is OK, a delay of a month or more is to long and not a good idea. It may still grow, but fewer mushrooms will be produced the longer you wait. If you wish to delay, starting your kit for a few weeks, store the kit below 50 degrees F and above freezing.

Set up your kit. Open the cardboard box and leave the box flaps pointing upward. Open the bag of compost, and pull up the excess plastic bag and leave it pointing up in the air, if it does not stay up tape it to the box flaps. Inside the bag of compost is a small bag of dry peat moss mixed with a little calcium carbonate, this is called casing. Casing is used as a covering to hold water and protect the mushroom mycelium growing in the compost. Next open the bag of dry casing, and into the casing bag add 5 cups (8 oz. cups) of room temperature tap water. Mix the water and casing together, until you have an even very wet mixture. There is about 8-10 cups of peat in this kit. Let the casing sit in its? own bag for 15 minutes to absorb most of the water before applying it to the compost. (A cup of water is 8 fluid ounces.)

Apply the casing. Now spread the wet casing evenly over the entire surface of the compost. Do not pack the casing down, leave it loose and fluffy. The casing should cover all the compost, and be approximately 1 inch deep. After applying the casing to the compost, mist or sprinkle the casing with an additional one-cup of water. Wait about 5 minutes and then scratch or ruffle the entire surface of the peat moss to a depth of ? inch. A nail or fork can be used to ruffle the casing. The roughness of the casing creates a microclimate where the young mushrooms can form. This completes setting up your kit. It is a good idea to write the date you start your kit on the box and on these instructions for later reference.

Grow locations. Now that you have finished setting up your kit, you will need to place your kit somewhere for it to grow. The best location will be a room where the temperature stays between 60 to 74 degrees F. The ideal fruiting temperature range for Portabella and White Button mushrooms is between 63 to 68 degrees F. Short periods of plus or minis 4 degrees are usually OK. Your mushroom kit does not need to be kept in the dark, but under no circumstance should you allow direct sun light to shine into your mushroom kit. The sunlight can dry out, overheat, and even kill your kit. Ambient light will cause Portabella mushroom caps to become darker brown in color. White Button mushrooms exposed to ambient light will get a sight blushing of color, but will still stay whitish in color. Mushrooms grown with light or without light, will taste the same. It is also important to protect your kit from insects of all kinds that?s why an indoor location is preferable to an outdoor location. Flies and their larva, mites and slugs all love to eat mushrooms and even the mushroom mycelium. (See 10 below.) It is important to leave the top of your kit open for air ventilation or no mushrooms will grow.

Water & Maintenance. Once you have placed your kit somewhere to grow, make sure you keep the surface of the casing moist. A moderate spray misting or sprinkling of water on the casing surface once a day is adequate. Do not let the casing dry out, as it is very hard to remoisten it and mushrooms will not grow in dry casing. Keep your kit out of drafts and away from heat sources, which will dry out your kit. You want to keep the surface of the kit moist at all times without over watering the kit. The kit has no drainage and excessive watering will build up, flood and drown the mycelium. Give the kit enough water each day to off set evaporation. You may water more often, if the temperature is warmer than 70 degrees F. Do not cover the top of the kit to prevent the kit from drying out, as this causes air circulation problems and high levels of carbon dioxide. High levels of carbon dioxide will prevent mushrooms from growing or produce long stringy undesirable mushrooms.

Mushrooms begin to grow. Within 7 to 14 days, after placing the casing on the compost, you will notice the white mushroom mycelium beginning to grow up into the casing. Sometimes the mycelium grows through the casing and covers 20 to 30 percent of the casings surface this is OK. On day 12 to 14 after casing ?" diameter mushrooms will begin to form on the casing surface. Mushrooms may grow anywhere on the casing surface, individually or in clusters. On day 17 to 21 after casing, the mushrooms will be ready to harvest if grown at 65-70 degrees temperatures. After the small mushrooms are watered, they will begin to grow and reach maturity in 3 to 7 days. Mushrooms will just about double in size every day when they are young.

Harvest your crop. The mushrooms can be picked as buttons with closed caps or allowed to fully mature with caps open. A mushroom is mature and ready to be picked, when the thin veil covering the gills under the mushroom begins to tear open. The size of the mushroom has nothing to do with maturity; even small mushrooms should be picked when the veil tears open. To pick your mushrooms rotate them a complete turn in place and slowly pull them out of the casing, trying not to disturb the adjacent mushrooms. Do not cut the mushrooms off inside the kit, as this leaves a stem in the casing to rot. Once you have picked your mushrooms, water the casing again with 1/2 cup of water to replenish the water the mushrooms removed. In one to four weeks, depending on the mushroom variety and the temperature, another crop of mushrooms will usually appear. Be patient, most kits produce two very large crops of mushrooms and then several smaller fruiting. After picking the second crop of mushrooms, water the kit again with 1/2 cup of water and then wait for crop three.

Contaminants & insects. As your kit ages, it is not uncommon to see tiny black flies and contaminant molds beginning to grow on the casing surface. The flies generally show up, if at all heaviest toward the end of the kit's life. The flies can easily be controlled, by coating the inside upper portion of the large compost bag with a thin coat of (only) vegetable cooking oil. This acts as flypaper and they stick to it. Molds usually do little immediate harm and may be left alone, until you discard your kit. Just because a few contaminants show up, don?t rush to discard your kit wait a while to be sure no further mushrooms will grow.

End of production. Your kit contains a fixed amount of mushroom nutrients, when these are used up; the kit will stop producing mushrooms and become idle. In time the mushroom mycelium slowly dies and becomes nutrients for plants. This begins around 12 weeks or later from the time you started your kit. Your kit can then be recycled by, adding it to your compost pile or mixing it into your garden for fertilizer.

Caution. A natural reproductive process for mushrooms is to produce spores. Spores are produced when mushroom caps reach maturity and open, releasing spores. Most of the spores fall and stay inside or around the kit, but some do drift away. If the spores are in heavy enough concentration and close to an item they may discolor it. Clean up can usually be done by washing with soap and water. It is a good idea to place a few sheets of newspaper under the kit, and keep the kit at least two feet away from furniture or walls. By picking your mushrooms before the veil breaks or shortly after, you will reduce or eliminate the release of spores. The spores are generally harmless to humans, unless you are allergic to fungi.

This is a casing with severe overlay Not good!


The way it should be




--------------------
Mad skills, you know this!!!

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Edited by Mycelium5150 (02/22/05 11:02 PM)


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OfflineMycelium5150
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3819480 - 02/22/05 11:27 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

had to bump it


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OfflineMycelium5150
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3820208 - 02/23/05 01:06 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

well, shit inst getting the attention that it deserves. When i talk shit in a post everyone listens. When i am serious no one listens. I guess i will stick to talking shit


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OfflineMycelium5150
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3823215 - 02/23/05 06:15 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

this is important, it needs to be kept on top


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InvisibleKlingonFromUranus
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3823485 - 02/23/05 07:12 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

This IS good information. I particularly like:

Apply the casing. Now spread the wet casing evenly over the entire surface of the compost. Do not pack the casing down, leave it loose and fluffy. The casing should cover all the compost, and be approximately 1 inch deep. After applying the casing to the compost, mist or sprinkle the casing with an additional one-cup of water. Wait about 5 minutes and then scratch or ruffle the entire surface of the peat moss to a depth of ? inch. A nail or fork can be used to ruffle the casing. The roughness of the casing creates a microclimate where the young mushrooms can form.


However it seems they recommend fruiting as soon as you apply the casing layer without allowing the bottom p[ortion to colonize. This is probably why mycelium is absent on the top of their casings.


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OfflineSko
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: KlingonFromUranus]
    #3823592 - 02/23/05 07:35 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Well, wouldn't letting it sit a day or 2 then fruiting be better, is that what your saying?

I'll try fruiting my next casing after I apply the casing layer and see what happens, heh


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Offlinebrewwhaha1
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Sko]
    #3823719 - 02/23/05 07:59 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

let it incubate for a bit. until the first signs of myceluim break thru. then start the fruiting process. if your doing bulk and have 6-8 inches. of substrate use 1.5" of peat moss. it works excellent


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OfflineMycelium5150
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: brewwhaha1]
    #3823818 - 02/23/05 08:19 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

first signs of mycelium should be about 1/2 from top of casing. Dont let the mycelium make it to the top. Once you see the rhizos shock it and heat it back up. Keep the casing wet. keep the mycel from colonizing the casing with overlay liuke the top pic


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Offlinehyphae
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3823860 - 02/23/05 08:27 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

When to initiate all depends on the mycelium's vigor #1. #2 casing thickness is also a major concern. Here is what I've found to be optimum water delivery, Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.


--------------------
Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal :wink:
Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is
Gas Exchange vs. FAE

"We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"


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InvisibleLand_Crab
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3823895 - 02/23/05 08:34 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Nice pic of regular mushrooms.


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OfflineMycelium5150
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Land_Crab]
    #3823919 - 02/23/05 08:40 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

this is overlayed

This is good.


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Mad skills, you know this!!!

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OfflineMycelium5150
Check theDate!!!!
Registered: 04/06/99
Posts: 541
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3824365 - 02/23/05 10:20 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

ignostic,
i too believe that contams on a casing means throw them out but these directions say other wise.

Is there any documented sources that say that contams are bad. I would prefer a book by professional not some article that is posted in the growing section of the shroomery.


--------------------
Mad skills, you know this!!!

I am here to Myth Bust


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Offlinebrewwhaha1
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3824386 - 02/23/05 10:25 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

i've had a problem with cobwebmold on casing. cut it out and surounded it with a mix of salt and baking soda. did a good job of getting rid of it. finished my first flush and then tossed it.


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Invisiblekorins
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3824474 - 02/23/05 10:41 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

It seems your definition of overlay is somewhat different from how I've seen the word used in the forums by others. Could you or someone else explain why exactly the mycelium breaking through the casing layer (what you call overlay) before pinning initiation? Thanks!


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OfflineMycelium5150
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: korins]
    #3824515 - 02/23/05 10:48 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

mycel breaking through the layer should be seeing mycel deep in the cracks and gullies. The top 1/2 inch should have any mycel colonizing it. The mushrooms should look like they are pushing up through the casing not growing on top. look at the color pic of the cubes growing on straw in tmc. You dont see any mycel on the casing. Very heavy pinset and large fruits. It has alot to do with casing


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Offlinehyphae
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3824548 - 02/23/05 10:54 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

Mycelium5150 said:
this is overlayed

This is good.





Overlayed? You da new newbie here bro!!!!!!
FYI that is an optimum casing but what good would that do for you? You are hilarious!!!! Thanks for the laugh!!!! :wink:


--------------------
Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal :wink:
Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is
Gas Exchange vs. FAE

"We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"


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Offlinehyphae
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: hyphae]
    #3824582 - 02/23/05 10:58 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Heres the casing that became. You have very much to learn so pay attention and reap the rewards!!! GL



Second flush :wink:



BTW you are a little confused without a doubt sorry to say :frown: again GL


--------------------
Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal :wink:
Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is
Gas Exchange vs. FAE

"We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"


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OfflineMycelium5150
Check theDate!!!!
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: hyphae]
    #3824597 - 02/23/05 11:00 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

newbie, respect your elders. Check the date


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Offlinehyphae
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3824626 - 02/23/05 11:05 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Hey here are some more severely overlayed casings! LOL





I've got more than twenty years under my belt bro don't even go there!!! PLEASE!!! Said with all respects :thumbup:


--------------------
Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal :wink:
Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is
Gas Exchange vs. FAE

"We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"


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OfflineMycelium5150
Check theDate!!!!
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: hyphae]
    #3824668 - 02/23/05 11:10 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

nice pics for giant cakes. I respect your knowledge and power to lock a good thread so i wont act up. Here is the best i could do picture wise. Note how the mushrooms are coming up through the casing.


--------------------
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Offlinehyphae
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3824743 - 02/23/05 11:23 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

It just a reference and a very good one at that but thats it, it only a reference experience proves best Myc. These are basic skills, you see the casing where theres no shooms? That casing is an uneven casing, it is nearly perfect but no cigar although it is plenty good for me or anyone else here. You are not looking at the whole picture or the fine details of pin initiation and maturation. I grew up with Oss and Oeric before Stamets came along and long before PF (the professor) and have learned much from them all not to mention all the thousands of growers I've met over the years and it's there words and results that really makes this hobby what it is today my friend. Again you can not argue with results!!! Unless you simply like to argue :wink: You have basic reading skills plain and simple pins do not form under a casings surface FYI GL and please keep your mind open to learning new things if your at all serious about this hobby.


--------------------
Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
Oyster Shell "Flour" $2 for 1lb. a hell of a deal :wink:
Not what is overlay but rather what overlay is
Gas Exchange vs. FAE

"We all have priorities. I used a closet once setup a nice little lab trouble was all the shit that was in there ended up in the bedroom that pissed off the GF then I ended up dumping her as she was getting in the way of my sterile culture technique! Ya I got priorities too!!!"


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OfflineMycelium5150
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: hyphae]
    #3828401 - 02/24/05 06:15 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

umm


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Invisibledobinky
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3828420 - 02/24/05 06:21 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

That book is biased toward the writers opinion. Everyone that gets good results thinks their way is the way.


Think outside the box.


--------------------
Today?s Pig is Tomorrow?s Bacon


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OfflineShroomGod
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: dobinky]
    #3855296 - 03/02/05 02:33 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

I agree with Mycellium5150's assessment on which casing is overlaid and which is not in the pictures presented. Basically, one wants a minimal amount of mycelium to grow over the top of the casing layer; otherwise, the casing will become less receptive to water and essentially reduce to a two dimensional surface, offering fewer niches for pinhead development.

Regardless of the exact regimen, watering should result in a network of mycelium growing through the bulk of the casing starting thick close to the substrate and becoming progressively thinner and less dense moving toward the surface. The depth of the casing should be no less than 1/2" but no more than 2". I like the magic 1" depth myself, but the exact depth of the casing rather depends on the nutrient density and depth of substrate as well as the vigor of the strain. A higher nutrient density, deeper substrate, or more vigorous strain will provide the momentum needed to make it through a thicker casing. Typically thinner casings can be, and probably should be, wetter than thick ones. For one a thinner casing is easier to penetrate so can be nearly saturated without ill effect. Secondly, a thinner casing has less water capacity so probably should be wetter to provide an adequate water reservoir for the flush. On the other hand, overly wet thick casings are often impenetrable as they suffocate the developing mycelium.

I've noticed that overlay is the latest fad in cubensis growing. I think this fad has shifted the overlay phenomenon from a oddity to nearly a desirable norm on this site because folks started to see very thin casings made of nutritive components like coir consistently overlaid in the pictures floating around. The perception is that the norm is good, but in this case, I disagree. A nutritive substance has no place in a casing layer for cubensis, and in my opinion coir straddles the fence as a nutritive component. As a simple hobbiest, I certainly wouldn?t use it nor would many reputable mycologists like, for example, Stamets who has publicly renounced its usefulness as a substrate component. Such supplemented casings, be it with coir or manure, usually overlay by the second flush and thus reduce total yield in the later flushes. Having said that, an overlaid casing is not doomed for failure. In fact I?ve seen very well overlaid casings produce impressive first flushes, but keep in mind that cubensis also fruits impressively in the first flush even without a casing (take a look at some of the straw log pictures around here). The beauty of a proper casing lies in the yield of the later flushes, which experience has shown me yield far more than any uncased substrate.


Edited by ShroomGod (03/02/05 02:40 AM)


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OfflineShroomGod
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: ShroomGod]
    #3855368 - 03/02/05 02:51 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

As an addition to my last post, I also want to point out that if your growing chamber is 100% relative humidity, as almost all simple chambers will be, you are better off with an overlaid thin casing. Why? Because otherwise you'll get green mold almost certainly.

I am sorry to say that in the old days I introduced the ShroomGod Humidifier technique which has become very popular. While it doesn't actually have a mist problem like the ultrasonics do--an over misting problem is totally deadly with a casing--I must admit that without venting in a little dry air into the chamber, even a cool mist will drive the chamber to 100% almost instantly. The result will likely be green mold on the casing by the third flush unless you overlay the casing. Sorry but it's a little known truth. You should strive for 90% humidity after first flush pins are set. Only if you can hit those lower humidities should you use a proper casing.


Edited by ShroomGod (03/02/05 02:56 AM)


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OfflineShroomGod
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3855459 - 03/02/05 03:20 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Contamination, like green mold, in the casing in a growth chamber pegged at 100% humidity is a bad thing because it progresses very fast. Under those conditions, there is practically no use in keeping it around. As seen in bold the kit directions say, "Do not cover the top of the kit to prevent the kit from drying out". If you aren't covering it, it isn't being subject to 100% relative humidity unless you live in a rainforest. Under those lower humidity conditions, the mold would not grow very quickly, and a few more mushrooms would probably have time to develop.


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: ShroomGod]
    #3864587 - 03/03/05 09:27 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

wow!! Look!! As casing that isnt overlayed.


--------------------
Stop experimenting half way through your first grow. Grow it to maturity, watch it, learn from it. Do this a few times then experiment with different ideas and figure out what works best for you.


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: tahoe]
    #3865354 - 03/04/05 12:01 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Tahoe, that's cool but excuse my crassness but I got to ask this: where's the beef? More soil surface there than shrooms; it should be the other way around.


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: ShroomGod]
    #3865370 - 03/04/05 12:04 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

its all about getting it to pin correctly now.


--------------------
Stop experimenting half way through your first grow. Grow it to maturity, watch it, learn from it. Do this a few times then experiment with different ideas and figure out what works best for you.


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I need to proofread


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: tahoe]
    #3865408 - 03/04/05 12:14 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

My all-time best tray had lots of mycellium poking up vertically at the surface. It has no mycellium running horizontally at the surface. It was a birdseed tray cased. The first flush so dense that when I took the shrooms off the top, there wasn't much surface! I never saw a tray like that. Back in those days, I wasn't keeping strains, but I wish I had cloned those puppies. They were freaky. The only pictures I know that compare are those, ironically, posted in this thread of the indoor greenhouse. Although that particular tray was even more dense than that picture.


Edited by ShroomGod (03/04/05 12:15 AM)


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: ShroomGod]
    #3865949 - 03/04/05 02:44 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

When I have a casing that looks like this right before pinning:

It looks like this when pinning:

And then it comes up like this:


As far as later flushes...the mycelium in the above casing doesnt become hardened, since its perfectly colonized (IMO), so after harvesting, you just patch it up and it come like this:



But hey, you keep busting your "myths" er whatever you feel your doing...personally I think its just being a pain in the ass to try and rile people up.


--------------------
"life is like a drop of rain getting closer and closer to falling into a lake, and then when you hit the lake there is no more rain drop, only the lake."

Growing with bags, start to finish (including my new grain and substrate prep)
Anyone looking to start bulk tubs/mono tubs/shotgun hybrids? Good tubs to use..
How I do grain (old still good tips)
Turn your closet into a fruiting chamber
Casing layer colonization and overlay


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3865995 - 03/04/05 02:57 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Okay, am I supposed to be impressed now? The trays look decent. You might want to pick the mushrooms next time before they are overly mature. At any rate, I am glad overlaid casings work so well for you. I'll post some pictures to show you how it's done a little later.


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: ShroomGod]
    #3866016 - 03/04/05 03:03 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

scatmanrav, I just had to laugh at your signature "Yeah I know I can be a dick..." and then you call me a pain in the ass. What more can I say?


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: ShroomGod]
    #3866041 - 03/04/05 03:10 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Sorry that comment was directed to mycelium and his "myth busting", not you. But no, that wasnt to impress you. It was to show people another casing through its life and see what it gets them. Plenty of people would be happy with casings as I do them. I get asked how I do things, so I tell people how I do things.

I do not see them as being overly mature at all. Still only takes a gram to knock your socks off. AND I dried them with a dehydrator. I'm jsut a crazy son of a bitch.

Please show me how its done. Keep it mind, thats just straight whole grain, not bulk. But post. Show me how its done. He'll those casings were my 2nd month of growing, I should sure as hell hope you can show me something better. Teach me how to fix my problems. I'm only getting 40 grams per flush on a quart of grain. How much should I be getting?


--------------------
"life is like a drop of rain getting closer and closer to falling into a lake, and then when you hit the lake there is no more rain drop, only the lake."

Growing with bags, start to finish (including my new grain and substrate prep)
Anyone looking to start bulk tubs/mono tubs/shotgun hybrids? Good tubs to use..
How I do grain (old still good tips)
Turn your closet into a fruiting chamber
Casing layer colonization and overlay


Edited by scatmanrav (03/04/05 03:37 AM)


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: scatmanrav]
    #3866088 - 03/04/05 03:26 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Wait,.....40g's Wet or dry?...


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: IGnosticAbhorI]
    #3866113 - 03/04/05 03:34 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Dry of course. I dont always get 40 grams on my flushes  :sad: Usually just first and second and sometimes even those are only like 25-35. But I still havent bothered concentrating on one strain, which when I do will help more constant results.


--------------------
"life is like a drop of rain getting closer and closer to falling into a lake, and then when you hit the lake there is no more rain drop, only the lake."

Growing with bags, start to finish (including my new grain and substrate prep)
Anyone looking to start bulk tubs/mono tubs/shotgun hybrids? Good tubs to use..
How I do grain (old still good tips)
Turn your closet into a fruiting chamber
Casing layer colonization and overlay


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: scatmanrav]
    #3866736 - 03/04/05 08:36 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

I can't believe this thread is still going! scat we in the know know those who don't don't. Let the knowitall's have there time that will just give us more time to harvest right? Right! :wink: LOL

You other guys need to that a much closer look at what is actually happening during the pinning process. GL guys


--------------------
Getting the most out of your casings!, A pinning strategy.
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: hyphae]
    #3866889 - 03/04/05 10:10 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

hyphae said:
I can't believe this thread is still going! scat we in the know know those who don't don't. Let the knowitall's have there time that will just give us more time to harvest right? Right! :wink: LOL

You other guys need to that a much closer look at what is actually happening during the pinning process. GL guys





What^^^^ he said.  .....

Where or these's pic's..

:sun:


--------------------
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: hyphae]
    #3867121 - 03/04/05 11:37 AM (16 years, 9 months ago)

Quote:

hyphae said:
I can't believe this thread is still going! scat we in the know know those who don't don't. Let the knowitall's have there time that will just give us more time to harvest right? Right! :wink: LOL

You other guys need to that a much closer look at what is actually happening during the pinning process. GL guys




I guess. I have a hard time letting things go though. Thats why I come across as a dick often. It's cool though...maybesomeone who searches and stumbles across this thread may come to different conclusions because of my posts, who knows. Doesnt really matter to me. Typings easy. So is posting pictures. I can sit here and smoke my sweettooth just posting in one post all day long :smile:

Now thats a fun and exciting day. :smile: I got nothing to harvest right now though..my flow got interupted switching the closet from rye to bulk.


--------------------
"life is like a drop of rain getting closer and closer to falling into a lake, and then when you hit the lake there is no more rain drop, only the lake."

Growing with bags, start to finish (including my new grain and substrate prep)
Anyone looking to start bulk tubs/mono tubs/shotgun hybrids? Good tubs to use..
How I do grain (old still good tips)
Turn your closet into a fruiting chamber
Casing layer colonization and overlay


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OfflineShroomGod
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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #3867189 - 03/04/05 12:03 PM (16 years, 9 months ago)

scatmanrav, if you are geting thoe yields, then do what you are doing. Maybe this sort of casing penetration, what mycologists used to term "overlay" is better for cubensis with certain types of growth chambers. Who knows. We are all learing here. I made up a few teks. I am no expert on this stuff. Even "experts" are learning all the time an changing their minds.

Let me give you an example. How many people on here are really forcing their fruiting chamber down to the Mushroom Cultivator's "85-92%"? Almost no one. Almost every growth chamber here is pegged at 100%, yet we see all sorts of good trays and straw logs on the picture site. If I said you are growing at too high of humidity, it would be true if I used those guidelines. But when the yields are good, then who cares? Probably there are more than one way to skin a cat.

The best yield I have achieved was 11 grams dry (about 44 wet) per half pint over the course of two huge flushes. By the third flush the top was so damaged that only a few pins formed. If I scale up to quart, that would be 44 grams dry per quart. That was on birdseed using the ecudorian strain. The casing was very well penetrated but not quite as overlaid as the one in your picture. The first flush was about 60% of the yield. I do not typically achieve that high of yield, especially using B+ which is my prefered strain anymore because I like the trip.


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #7096342 - 06/26/07 09:19 PM (14 years, 5 months ago)

so if i had a half block of peat moss how much water do i need to add and is distilled water better?


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: w. murderface]
    #7096365 - 06/26/07 09:23 PM (14 years, 5 months ago)

ummmmm this is an ooolllldddd ass thread


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: xaxphaanes]
    #7096436 - 06/26/07 09:48 PM (14 years, 5 months ago)

Ha Ha, That was his first post.

Oh and BTW whats perlite?


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycodood]
    #7096456 - 06/26/07 09:54 PM (14 years, 5 months ago)

Perlite is an amorphous volcanic glass that has a relatively high water content. It occurs naturally and has the unusual property of greatly expanding when heated sufficiently.


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Re: Casing Water Content Revisited!!! Interesting article. Pics!!! [Re: Mycelium5150]
    #7096604 - 06/26/07 10:32 PM (14 years, 5 months ago)

:rofl:


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