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 Some of these posts are very old and might contain outdated information. You may wish to search for newer posts instead.
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 XAZIA glitter goddess Registered: 08/22/01 Posts: 678 Loc: oklahoma Last seen: 21 years, 7 months |
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recieved a couple of prints i have been waiting on yesterday but am chilling on the grow front for a minute. what is the best way/conditions i should store these prints for later use. would it be better to make syringes now and store them this way or as prints...and what is the best way to make the syringes when i do? pc h20 and jar w/lid and hole punched in lid, wait for cooled and srape some spores in jar? i'm a little confused on the print to syringe method.
thanx in advance! peace! -------------------- "Emancipate yourself from mental slavery, none but ourselves can free our minds." Bob Marley Remember, EGOISM is the beginning, the source, and the root of EVIL! http://www.fanaticus.com/pf-tek.htm http://www.mycotopia.net/teks/hongus.html Edited by XAZIA (11/20/01 01:13 PM)
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NewbieShroomer member  Registered: 10/01/01 Posts: 199 Loc: San Diego Califo Last seen: 22 years, 3 months |
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A little info I have collected... Merry X-mas :)
****************************************************************************************** ****************************************************************************************** SPORE PRINT/INNOCULATION/SYRINGE TEK'S ****************************************************************************************** ****************************************************************************************** _____________________________________________________ SYRINGE MAKING TEK _____________________________________________________ 50 syringes from one cap is possible, if u want very sparsely sporulated syringes... still perfectly good tho... and for those of u after the auto 59009 syringe tek, here it is... i hurriedly typed this up so let me know if i need to edit it at all... the emphasis with syringes is CLEANLINESS... try to keep everything as "sterile" as possible... Introduction: I have used the following tek to produce countless syringes with a success rate of very nearly 100%. Quite simply, it allows anyone to turn a spore print into a syringe filled with a clean, viable spore solution. It is almost impossible for the home cultivator to achieve a completely sterile working area, so the cultivator must suffice with a RELATIVELY sterile working area. An abundance of spores perpetually permeate the air around us, yet these must be excluded from the syringe if contamination is to be avoided at germination of the mushroom spores. Equipment: A dust mask Latex gloves Aerosol isospropyl alcohol (Glen20; or Isocol in a spray bottle) An empty, sterile, syringe Distilled H20 A coffee mug Wax paper (or cling wrap) A microwave Alcohol swabs (or tissues sprayed with alcohol) A resealable plastic sandwich bag A babyfood jar A pressure cooker (or stovetop and pot) A spore print Method: 1. Don the dust mask and a pair of latex gloves. Find a small (preferably at least partially enclosed) surface to work on. Thoroughly wipe down the with alcohol, then spray the entire area liberally. Also spray gloved hands to sterilise. 2. Place syringe(s) on surface. Fill the mug with distilled water and cover with wax paper (cling wrap also works well but tends to explode in the microwave). Place the mug in the microwave and sterilise it. Sterilisation is usually achieved when the water has been bubbling for several minutes. 3. Remove sterilised water from the microwave and bring it to the surface near the syringes. Remove the cap from the syringes and, stabbing the needle through the paper, draw up the boiling water. Wipe down the needle with an alcohol swab and recap quickly. Repeat for each syringe. Seal all syringes in the sandwich bag and place somewhere relatively clean to cool down. The freezer has always worked well for me in the past. 4. Whilst waiting for the syringes to return to room temperature you should empty the babyfood jar and rinse it well. Then place the jar and lid separately in a pressure cooker. It must stay in the boiling water for 30 minutes or so to guarantee sterilisation. With a regular pot full of water, it should boil covered for about 60 minutes. 5. Release the steam from the pressure cooker and remove the lid, or with a pot, just remove the lid. With several layers of latex gloves (3, maybe 4, should suffice) raise the babyfood jar (upside down) just above the water line to empty it. Then quickly screw the lid on it. Leave it somewhere to cool to room temperaure. 6. Once both syringes and jar have cooled bring them to the working surface and repeat Step 1. Place the sterile spore print on the surface. Now, working as quickly as possible (without creating severe) air currents remove the cap of the first syringe, then remove the lid of the babyfood jar, and use the forceful stream of water ejected from the syringe to direct spores from the spore print into the jar. This method does not always work well with all printing mediums, however, it works excellently with all my foil prints. If it will not work with your print medium there are alternative methods. Fold the print in half and rub the sides together over the jar. Or use a retractable blade type Xacto knife that has been wiped down with an alcohol swab to scrape the spores into the jar. Do not use the whole print if you intend to make more than one syringe. Squirt the remaining water into the jar. Draw the spore filled water back into the syringe. Wipe down the needle with the alcohol swab and recap. Repeat this process with each new syringe. Store labelled syringes in a sealed plastic bag in a cool, dry environment, out of direct light. Notes: To sterilise previously used syringes disassemble them and boil/pressure cook the pieces, reassemble just above the water line whilst the water is still boiling/hot (use multiple layers of latex gloves to avoid burns). A babyfood jar is used because it has a small mouth, minimising the risk of airborne contaminants. Spraying the area with aerosol alcohol throughout the process should minimise airborne contaminants. Be sure to keep aerosol alcohol, alcohol wipes, flames, heat, etc.. away from spores, this will not only kill bacterial spores but also mushrooms spores! If you have any suggestions/comments please don't hesitate to email me at auto59009@angelfire.com _____________________________________________________ UNKLE LAZLOS EZ MYCELIUM SYRINGE TEK _____________________________________________________ Here's a way to get into cloning with a technique that does not require a blender , agar, a HEPA filter, or even a glovebox. It allows you to make the most of the knowledge you have gained using the PF Tek or any of the other sealed jar teks, and allows you to select strong mycelial growth for cloning. I and several others have reported good results using it. This technique makes use of a piece of colonized substrate from an unopened, uncontaminated PF-style jar. You will remove a small piece of substrate, place it in a jar of sterile water, agitate the water to distribute mycelial cells through it, and draw a syringe from that jar. You will need one or more sterile syringes for this tek. If you have previously used ("dirty") syringes, you can sterilize them by autoclaving for 20 minutes at 15 psi; or, if you have no autoclave, you can boil them. I have no glove box and no HEPA?filter. I do, however, own a "poor man's laminar flow hood." In other words, I warm up the old Kenmore oven, pull out a rack, and work in the warm updraft of air, which basically keeps airborne contaminants from falling onto the work surface. If you keep your hands and tools clean, you should get acceptable results working this way. If you have a HEPA filter or glove box, by all means, use it. I prepare my water jar by putting a few jagged pieces of broken glass into a half pint jelly jar and filling the jar with distilled water.You can punch a single hole in the jar lid, near the lip of the jar, through which you can insert a hypodermic needle. If you decide to do this, you can put foil over the mouth of the jar and screw the lid over it, so that, later, you can just push the needle through the foil with little risk of contamination. I place the lid loosely on the jar (rubber seal in place) and heat it at 400F for an hour. You must let it cool before you can use it. I suggest that it be at room temperature before you proceed. When your sterile water is cool, lay out your materials on the oven rack. You should have your sterile syringe, scalpel, colonized jar, and water jar ready to go. Working quickly, use the scalpel to remove a chunk of colonized substrate from the rice jar. It is not necessary that the jar be completely colonized. Do not, however, take your sample from a contaminated jar - - this is NOT a way to save a bad batch of jars. Believe me, I've tried it! Try to pick a section of mycelium that looks stringy (rhizomorphic) rather than cottony. I like to push the scalpel straight down into the jar twice so as to cut a wedge shaped piece from the perimeter of the cake. You can use a metal fork to remove the chunk - - sterile, of course. The chunk of colonized rice/verm, maybe the size of a sugar cube, should go immediately into the jar of sterile water. Next, tighten the jar lid and shake the solution vigorously for a minute or so. You will now see the purpose of the glass shards, as they help break up the chunk of mycelium. When the water begins to look milky, let the solids - - vermiculite, rice grains, etc. - - settle to the bottom. At this point, you should be able to draw a syringe of mycelium solution. Don't worry if the syringe clogs: when it does, just press the plunger down to clear the needle. As you draw up the milky water, try to pull up as much white mycelial tissue as possible. You'll be able to see it floating around. The more of it you get, the better. When you have drawn as many syringes as you need, I suggest that you use them as soon as possible. Some people report that mycelium in distilled water can last for weeks. I prefer to use the solution within a day. So there you go. A very fast way to make mycelial inoculate without all that blender rigmarole and all the hassles associated with agar plates. Inject this solution into sterile grain to make spawn, or shoot it directly into PF-style jars. I've seen impressive growth in as little as 48 hours, though, at times, it may take several days for growth to appear. I will warn you that, if you do not see growth within one week, the likelihood of bacterial comtamination is high. One whiff of an open jar will tell the story. Happy Trails, _____________________________________________________ MYCELIUM INNOCULATION TEK _____________________________________________________ Mycelium Innoculation Technique This is a significant improvement of the PF-Tek which enables you to grow virtually hundreds of PF-cakes with only one spore syringe! Also the primordia will appear in as little as 16 days after inoculation! The key is first to colonize a sterilized rye jar and then use this mycelium to make a mycelium syringe. For the first part I basically use the The Foolproof Psilocybe Cubensis Mycelial Culture Technique which can be found at The Shroomery. I use 100g (3,2 ounces) rye + 100 g water + a knife tip of gypsum in a 450 ml (1 pint) jar. There is an important detail to prevent airborne contamination entering the jars (the rye and later the rice-vermiculite!): Take a clean plastic bag and spray the inner side with Lysol. Rub it from outside so the Lysol is evenly dispersed on the inner surface of the bag. When the sterilization time is over, wait a few minutes for the pressure to build down to ambient. Then take a clean, folded cloth or thick gloves, open the cooker and transfer the (burning hot!) jars to the bag. Roll the rest of the bag together, so you get it pretty airtight. As the hot air in the jars is cooling down and its volume decreases, fresh (contaminated!) air from outside is drawn in. This setup will accomplish that the contaminants from the air set down on the wet bag surface and don't come into the jars! The sterilization time should be at least 45 minutes, better 1 hour to assure complete sterilization. You should shake the rye jars immediately after spore inoculation and than once after 3-4 days and after 8 days. The optimum growth temperature is about 29?C (85?F). Now the best part. You will need: * At least one empty plastic syringe, like the one from PF * A small (app. 200 ml) jar with a screw lid (I take one from a spaghetti sauce) * Tin foil * Alcohol lamp * A tea spoon Punch a hole with a small nail into the middle of the lid. It has to be big enough for the needle of the syringe fits through. Fill the jar with app. twice the amount of water you will need to fill the syringes. (for instance when you have three syringes with each 10 ml to fill, take app. 60 ml).Screw the lid and cover with a double layer of tin foil, sterilize in a pressure cooker and then handle according to the above tips. After it has cooled down to room temperature prepare all for the transfer of the colonized rye to the water filled jar. Wash your hands, clean the working surface, take the colonized rye jar, loosen the lid of the water jar, but don't take it off jet. Sterilize the already washed and Lysol-sprayed spoon over the flame of the alcohol lamp. I use to cool the hot spoon by dipping it in a small glass of alcohol, but you can also wait a few moments the spoon cools down. Than open the rye jar, the water jar and transfer 2 spoon full of colonized rye to the water jar. This should obviously best be done under sterile conditions, but if you work fast an in a draft free room you should accomplish this without contaminating the whole jar. Replace the lids back and screw them tight. The rye jar can be kept in a fridge at least three months and be used over and over again. Take the water jar, put a finger on the tin foil where the hole is and shake it vigorously at least 3 minutes until you see many tiny mycelium pieces swimming in the water. Take a clean, sterilized syringe, sterilize the tip of the needle over the flame and pull (holding the needle still in the flame) the plunger back 4 millimeters (1/5 inch). This will give you a little airspace so later on you can shake the mycelium water prior to inoculation of the PF jars. Remove the tin cover, hold the jar at an angle, insert the needle into water and pull the plunger until the syringe is full. Be careful the syringe needle is clean and sterilized or you will contaminate the mycelium water. That?s it! You can now use this syringe like you would use the spore-water one. You can keep the mycelium syringes in the fridge at least 2 months. _____________________________________________________ DARKWING'S EZ SYRINGE TEK _____________________________________________________ Overview: 1. Sterilize yogurt container 2. Clip mature cap and place in container 3. Sterilize syringes 4. After spores drop, remove cap 5. Add sterile water, scrape spores of bottom of container, fill syringes Details: To sterilize a yogurt container, simply add 1-2 tablespoons of water, an airtight lid, and throw it in the microwave. Make sure to crack the lid of the container a little bit. I nuke mine for 5 minutes on high, which steams nearly all the water in the container and thus sterilizes it, but YMMV (Your Microwave May Vary). Drain excess water from container right after heating while still in the microwave, and then re-cover. Store someplace special. When clipping the cap, make sure to practice sterile procedures. Wash up, wear a surgical mask and latex gloves. Dip scissors in rubbing alcohol and apply flame. Of course, remove scissors from rubbing alcohol first (it's _extremely_ flammable). The blades should burn for a few moments and then extinguish themselves. Either grip the cap lightly with a gloved hand, or pierce gently with a sterilized pin (just flame the pin with a lighter until it glows red, then let it cool). By using the pin, human hands may never have to touch the cap. Drop the cap in the sterilized container, making sure the lid stays is off as little as possible (reduces chance of airborne contaminant landings). Wait a day, or until spores drop. There will still be plenty of moisture in the container left over from steam sterilization to maintain proper humidity for a while. Sterilize syringes. 10cc syringes with 18 gauge 1-1/2" needles are best. Get the Luer Lok kind. I like B-D syringes myself. The needle can be sterilized by dousing in rubbing alcohol and the rinsing in sterile water. The syringe can be sterilized by drawing in 1cc of tap water, pulling the plunger all the way back, and placing in the microwave. Nuke for 5 minutes (YMMV). The 1cc of water will be heated to steam to provide for a nice steam sterilization of the entire inside of the syringe. Easier than 1 hour in a pot, IMHO. Cap the syringe before removing from microwave. Some water will be trapped in the syringe, but don't worry, it's sterile. The cap should be removed from the yogurt container using the same sterile procedure that was used to put it in there. Once it's out, the container can be filled with enough water to fill the syringes needed (ie, 2 syringes x 10cc = 20cc H20). Sterile water can be gotten at the pharmacy, or made by either boiling water, or nuking it in the microwave (5 minutes in a yogurt container). Remember to sterilize more water than is needed for syringe filling because a large portion will get converted into steam. After that, all's that's left to do is to add the water to the yogurt container, scratch the spore print from the bottom of the container and fill each syringe. Don't forget to pat yourself on the back: You've just saved yourself at least $10 per syringe and a couple of weeks worth of waiting. Not only that, but you're self sufficient! Whew. Sorry for taking up so much bandwidth, but hopefully someone'll find this informational. It does work, by the way. I created 3 syringes using this tek, and have innoculated 6 jars without contamination (100% colonization today!). Random Useful Tip: Have you cased a few cakes but have no room in the terrarium for them? Just put 'em into a large plastic ziplock bag and mist inside the bag a bit. It'll keep the humidity up while the casing recovers and gives you time to make room in the terrarium. ______________________________________________________ FOGGY MOUNTAIN FARMS QUICK SEAL ( INNOCULATION TEK ) ______________________________________________________ The PF vermiculite layer seal was a revolution. It changed the world and allowed home users to grow mushrooms from rice flour/vermiculite cakes. While it was a good method in it's time, there are a tremedous amount of drawbacks. We wonder why PF stopped there and didn't try to think of improvements. We don't say bad things about competitors, like some scumbag unethical companies, so we will salute PF for their thinking and develop our own better method. The two biggest drawbacks with PF are that the needle comes in contact with substrate (contamination), and the vermiculite contaminates grain if you were planning on eating or making tea from cakes (imagine the constipation ......lol...). Fill jars with flour vermiculite mix, or grain and water. Place a upside down canning lid with small hole (punched hole facing down) in center on the jar. Using wide, clear packing tape (like scotch tape but wider and stronger) lay strip of tape centered over hole with about 1" going down both sides of the jar threads. The tape should be rubbed down to firmly hold lid in place. Screw on retaining ring. Place jars in pressure cooker and sterilize, it will NOT melt or harm tape. Let jars cool completely before removing from cooker (this is always best). To inoculate, you need a syringe and some masking tape. Tear off a piece of masking tape long enough to cover hole and extend to the edge of the lid on both sides. Stick the tape on one side of the jar, with the unstuck portion up in the air, in place, so when you remove needle you can push tape down to cover hole. Insert needle just enough to pentetrate seal, but DON'T insert far enough to touch sterile substrate. Squirt spore water or mycelium solution (if you are buying PF syringes) towards each side of jar. When you remove needle, push waiting tape down and cover hole. To label jars, you can simply write on the masking tape which is covering the hole. This seal works great and has a very low contamination rate. The needle never comes in contact with substrate, it is much quicker, and if you are using a edible mix, it isn't contaminated with vermiculite. This method was developed by our master grower. Try it! It works MUCH better then the PF method ever dreamed on it's best day!!!! ______________________________________________________ OVEN STERILITY TEK ______________________________________________________ This is the best tek for me. I've gotten 0 contams so far - make a sterile print on paper with foil surrounding it and covering the actual spores. To make the print you need to a container that?s airtight and oven safe. You then heat the oven to 400? and bake the container with all the print papers inside to sterilize them. Then let it all cool down completely. Heat up oven to 190? and keep a constant flow coming out of the oven to keep out contams. Clean hands with rubbing alcohol. Now put fresh cap with as much as stem as can be cut off ontop of the paper by opening the foil "lid" and placing ontop. Repeat till finished. Now put lid over container and shut off oven and wait till the spores drop. To take out the prints heat oven to 190? again and clean hands with rubbing alcohol and lift the lid off and close the foil "lid" and take out the prints then simply put the foil back over and you are done. I store my prints in ziplock bags. ______________________________________________________ PSILOCYBERS SYRINGE TEK V1.0 ______________________________________________________ NOTE: These instructions are most effective when performed in the most sterile environment available. The preferred method involves following the steps below while working in a clean and sterile glovebox. There are many simple methods of glovebox construction; most are available on the web at the popular mycological culture Websites. If you do not wish to construct a glovebox, or do not have one, the following steps may be preformed with success by using the "oven tek." This simply involved using your oven as a way of reducing the amount of contamination present. To do this, turn your oven on its "warm" setting. Pull down the lid. You may then use the lid as a working surface or pull out one of the oven racks halfway and work on it. The theory is the rising heat from the oven causes airborne contaminations to rise as well and therefore prevents them from settling on your working surface. Materials needed: Empty sterile syringes Two quart (or larger) saucepan One bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol Several paper towels A lighter or alcohol flame A shot glass Procedure One: Making a sterile syringe 1. Fill your saucepan halfway with tap or distilled water (use distilled water if your tap water contains higher levels of minerals and chemicals). 2. Boil the water in the saucepan on high for a minimum of ten minutes, this should be adequate to sterilize and cleans the water of all bacteria and viruses. 3. Take your empty syringe and fill it with the boiling water. Allow it to sit for two minute with the hot water inside. 4. Purge the hot water from the syringe into a sink, not back into the saucepan. 5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 two more times. Upon the second time leave the hot water in the syringe. 6. Place the syringe in a cool draft-free place, preferable in a clean zip-lock bag 7. Allow it to cool for several hours before proceeding to Procedure Two. Procedure Two: Transferring print spores into syringe 1. First clean your work area. This may involve wiping down all work surfaces with a diluted bleach solution and spraying the area liberally with a disinfectant such as Lysol. 2. Place the following materials in your glovebox or on the oven lid working surface: The shot glass, your cooled syringes, the bottle of alcohol, a paper towel, your print (still in zip-lock baggie) and the lighter or alcohol flame. 3. Wash hands with antibacterial soap before proceeding further. 4. Fold the paper towel up into 1/4 sections and soak a corner of it with the alcohol. 5. With the alcohol soaked towel wipe the interior of the shot glass, essentially sterilizing the surface you are about to use in the transfer. Allow the shot glass to air dry, should only take a few seconds. 6. Remove the needle guard from your sterile syringe and flame sterilize the needle. Then take your alcohol soaked paper towel and wipe the needle with it to further aid in the sterilization. At this point try to avoid letting the needle touch any other surface unless otherwise instructed to do so. 7. NOTE: it is important at this point to work as quickly as possible to help combat the chances of contaminating molds and bacteria falling into your work area and thereby ruining your syringe. 8. Remove the print from its storage baggie. Unfold it to expose the spores. Lightly begin to scrape, using the needle of the syringe, a section of the print off into the shot glass. For a medium sized print it is usually adequate to scrape off a section no larger than 1/5 of the total print. 9. You will have a small noticeable collection of spores in the shot glass. Now expunge no more than half of the water from the syringe into the shot glass, lightly stirring the spores into the solution. 10. Suck the spore water solution into the syringe. You may need to expunge some more water into the shot glass and re-suck to help in capturing all the spores into the syringe. 11. Once you have the spore solution back into the syringe you should notice that the water inside has turned a darker shade of color and you may see small clusters of spores floating in the solution. This is good, you have completed the process. 12. Sterilize the needle again with the alcohol soaked paper towel, replace the needle guard and place the syringe back into your clean zip-lock bag. 13. Allow the syringe to sit for no less than 12 hours before using it in jar inoculation. This is extremely important, as the spores must be allowed to rehydrate before they can be introduced into the substrate material. Failure to allow this may result is slow or no germination. -------------------- If things get any worse, I'll have to ask you to stop helping me. Too many freaks, not enough circuses. .......................................... http://www.Mycotopia.net ..........................................
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LuNaTiX Quarterback    Registered: 07/28/03 Posts: 5,142 Last seen: 6 months, 1 day |
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Thanks
 thats also what I needed, and 5 shrooms for both of you; anyone who has been reged since 2001 should have at least one rating
-------------------- 
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 Roadkill Retired Shroomery Mod   Registered: 12/11/01 Posts: 22,674 Loc: Montana 
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Dude your name fit's you well.
That post is over 4 years old...not that it isn't a good one. lolzz -------------------- Laterz, Road Who the hell you callin crazy? You wouldn't know what crazy was if Charles Manson was eating froot loops on your front porch! Brainiac said: PM the names with on there names, that means they have mushrooms for sale. 
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LuNaTiX Quarterback Registered: 07/28/03 Posts: 5,142 Last seen: 6 months, 1 day |
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 wtfness, thats really weird Ohhh nm I know why, my settings were showing the oldest instead of the newest I guess. I knew something was odd! -------------------- Edited by LuNaTiX (01/22/05 10:18 AM)
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PlaCoFuGostei Brazilian Hunter  Registered: 01/07/05 Posts: 63 Loc: Brazil Last seen: 18 years, 11 months |
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I don't know... I am still waiting to read: what is the best way of storing the prints.
I used the search and found no conclusive answer. 
--------------------   Peace and Prosperity
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Roadkill Retired Shroomery Mod Registered: 12/11/01 Posts: 22,674 Loc: Montana
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Quote: In a cool dry place. I keep my prints in file box...in a closet. -------------------- Laterz, Road Who the hell you callin crazy? You wouldn't know what crazy was if Charles Manson was eating froot loops on your front porch! Brainiac said: PM the names with on there names, that means they have mushrooms for sale.
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FarmerD journeyman  Registered: 05/16/02 Posts: 195 Loc: US OF A BABY!!!! Last seen: 18 years, 7 months |
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I agree with road kill kool dry place sounds fine to me
-------------------- None of these statements are to be taken seriously. FarmerD is a fictional character, and so are the things he posts. "He who reaches for the stars often stumble on a simple straw." Blue Fairy Supplies for all your shrooming needs! Special thanks to MushroomMadness for great deals!
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psilocyben bad guy  Registered: 12/03/04 Posts: 1,026 Last seen: 17 years, 2 months |
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i'm sure it will be of no use as it is a technique for long term storage, but it's still cool;
check out what holy diver posted about how to create your own c02. it keeps "whatever" from oxidizing and will keep for years. --------------------
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PlaCoFuGostei Brazilian Hunter Registered: 01/07/05 Posts: 63 Loc: Brazil Last seen: 18 years, 11 months |
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Roadkill, how long can you store prints this way?
Did you ever tried to freeze it out? Great psilocyben !!! Here: Make your own C02 for long term storage (Pictorial) But they are talking about shrooms storage. I am not sure but...  I suppose that prints can be freezed out... 
-------------------- Peace and Prosperity
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Roadkill Retired Shroomery Mod Registered: 12/11/01 Posts: 22,674 Loc: Montana
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Years
-------------------- Laterz, Road Who the hell you callin crazy? You wouldn't know what crazy was if Charles Manson was eating froot loops on your front porch! Brainiac said: PM the names with on there names, that means they have mushrooms for sale.
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PlaCoFuGostei Brazilian Hunter Registered: 01/07/05 Posts: 63 Loc: Brazil Last seen: 18 years, 11 months |
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Ok !!! That is the big deal !!!
Thanks Roadkill 
-------------------- Peace and Prosperity
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