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Offlineqwon
destroying angel
Registered: 08/21/04
Posts: 324
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
rye tek checklist:
    #3506279 - 12/15/04 08:48 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

1. 24 hours soaked grain
2. drain and rinse.
3. bring to boil and simmer :30 minutes from point of boil.
4. drain and rinse again. (how long drain??)
5. pack and pc.
6. innoc and pray. :heart:


--------------------
'I'm the commander see, I don't need to explain, I do not need to
explain why I say things. That's the interesting thing about being the president.
Maybe somebody needs to explain to me why they say something,
but I don't feel like I owe anybody an explanation.'
- George W. Bush

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Offlinedmc_
211

Registered: 12/23/03
Posts: 559
Loc: Portland, OR
Last seen: 18 years, 5 months
Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: qwon]
    #3506316 - 12/15/04 08:54 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

innoc and pray...lol

I drain for about 30 minutes, or until it doesnt drip when you squeeze a bunch fairly hard. Make sure you shake those jars after you pc them, to help distribute the moisture.

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OfflineDubiousDuo
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Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: dmc_]
    #3506329 - 12/15/04 08:58 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

simmering is not NECESSARY. My Foaf just soaked for 32 hours and then PCed and jars are doing GREAT. simmering can cause exploding kernels and sticky carbohydrate messes. maybe 10 min would be ideal, so as to maximize moisture w/o risking kernel popping.


--------------------
It is easier to wear slippers,
Than to carpet the world

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Offlineqwon
destroying angel
Registered: 08/21/04
Posts: 324
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: DubiousDuo]
    #3506352 - 12/15/04 09:03 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

right, i did too many jars where they simmered/boiled for too long (over 30 minute) - goo and slop and too much moisture everytime...so perhaps i won't go over 20 minutes this time (kind of like the karo tek)...thxx


--------------------
'I'm the commander see, I don't need to explain, I do not need to
explain why I say things. That's the interesting thing about being the president.
Maybe somebody needs to explain to me why they say something,
but I don't feel like I owe anybody an explanation.'
- George W. Bush

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Offlinejonas
member

Registered: 11/18/02
Posts: 499
Last seen: 18 years, 1 month
Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: qwon]
    #3506371 - 12/15/04 09:07 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

Speaking of water content ... I got some popcorn jars that are a little too wet, but I have the jars lids replaced with tyvek. I soon found out that it drys the jars out so I put aluminium foil over them. It didn't occur to me that maybe I'd be best to take the foil off the ones that are too wet and let them dry out a bit, would that get them going if they're only not growing because they're too wet? I have 2 out of 5 jars growing strong. The 3 that aernt doing anything have water sitting at the bottom.

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OfflineDubiousDuo
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Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: jonas]
    #3506457 - 12/15/04 09:29 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

jonas, mfoaf has metal lids then tyvek, then metal band. the metal lid has holes drilled to allow for innoc/gas exchange. works great, and wont allow jars to dry out too much.  :blush:



hope that helps  :grin:


--------------------
It is easier to wear slippers,
Than to carpet the world

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Offlinejonas
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Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: DubiousDuo]
    #3506479 - 12/15/04 09:34 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

Thanks bro. I've heard to do that but it was after I made my jars. My question however is, would taking the aluminium foil off and letting the jars dry out a bit get them growing? I'd assume so if the 2 drier ones are colonizing very rapidly.

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OfflineDubiousDuo
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Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: jonas]
    #3506485 - 12/15/04 09:36 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

aye, take off tha foil after PC. mfoaf did and everything is fine, thats what the tyvek is for, no contams will be getting in, hopefully somemoisture/ gas exchange will occur once the foil is off. :smile:


--------------------
It is easier to wear slippers,
Than to carpet the world

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OfflineRogerRabbitM
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Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: DubiousDuo]
    #3506515 - 12/15/04 09:44 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

A thirty minute boil is too long. The grain will be over-hydrated. After a 24 to 36 hour soak, a five minute boil is plenty. The main reason for the boil is to heat up the grains, so when you drain them, the rye will dry on the outside because of the heat/steam coming off the hot kernals. Drain for half an hour, while shaking the collander a few times to release the steam. Only load the jars when the rye looks and feels dry to the touch.

DubiousDuo has the right idea. Always use the metal lid against the jar. Have a couple of very small holes in the lid, with your tyvek or synthetic filter disk on the outside, then the band. This will keep your filter dry. If the filter gets wet, you're screwed.


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Offlineqwon
destroying angel
Registered: 08/21/04
Posts: 324
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: RogerRabbit]
    #3506849 - 12/15/04 11:00 PM (19 years, 3 months ago)

:thumbup: :thumbup: - - you uys totally saved me 2 -3 weeks !! 10,000 shrooms to you


--------------------
'I'm the commander see, I don't need to explain, I do not need to
explain why I say things. That's the interesting thing about being the president.
Maybe somebody needs to explain to me why they say something,
but I don't feel like I owe anybody an explanation.'
- George W. Bush

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InvisibleMagash
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Registered: 07/25/02
Posts: 5,876
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Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: qwon]
    #3507450 - 12/16/04 02:37 AM (19 years, 3 months ago)

30 minutes is to long....hmmmm I do it 45 and no less I guess this was all wrong


Prepping the grain and jars.

1. First thing I do is put one cup of rye in each jar.

2. Put in enough water for the soaking. I like to soak for 24 hrs. Notice the difference in the color of the water after 24 hrs. Bacteria spores have started to germinate. This is the reason we soak the grain. Many believe that this is where water is added but this is not true. We are germinating the bacteria endo spores because they can survive a PC if we don?t.

3. I pour out the water and fill and shake and pour that out. Put in a pot and the water is ready to simmer for 45 min. During the simmer is when the water is added to the grain

4. Simmer the grain and then rinse with water. I like to pour 6 gallons threw the grain. (no reason for 6 it?s just a me thing) The grain is ready to be put into jars and PCd.

5. Put 2 hole?s in the jar lids. One is a breather and one is for the syringe needle. Put a piece of tyvek over the top add the ring and some foil and your ready to PC. Be sure to leave room in the jars to shake the grain

6. Load the PC and pc for 1 hour at 15 psi. Here is a finished jar.

Now your ready for the next step.

Incubator set up.

1. First thing get your bottom tub and put in your heater. I also add a water pump to mix the water that way it heats up much more evenly but it isn?t a necessary item. I got the tape from a boat shop and it has been working for some time. Good stuff for underwater.

2. Next put something (I used tall half pints) in each corner of the tub. This will keep the heater and pump safe from being smashed if I put in to many jars or do something stupid.

3. Now be sure to set the heater before you put on the top tub. I attach the top tub with zip ties cause the top tub will want to float.

4. Add the water. I like to add as much water as I can before it starts to spill out.

5. If you use the heaters with the external controls set them now to get ready for the jars. Mine use a dial and a sensor that gives the temp inside the chamber rather then the water. It also has a metal bulb rather then a glass one.


6. Finished

Inoculation

1. First get your work area ready.

2. One of the reasons I like tyvek is cause you can write on it.

3. I like to heat the needle tip then cool it with a alcohol wipe.

4. Inoculate the grain. I like to use 2.5 cc per quart.

5. I like to cover the inoculation hole with a band-aid. I like em cause they come sterile.

6. Shake up the jars real good and put em in a 82 F ? 27.7C to 86F ? 30C incubator.

7. I like to shake the jars again when they are about 25% colonized then once more at about 50% to 75% done.

The waiting game.

1. This is the hard part, the waiting game. Here is a jar 3 ? days after being shot up.
Few days later

The first part of the waiting game is over time to get the casing mix together.

1. Well it?s been exactly 9 days and the jars are done. Time to get the casing supplies.
2. I like coco coir and verm mix. Be sure you get coir and not fiber. Coir is on the left and fiber is on the right. Coir in the package. Verm can be found all over the place and looks like this.
3. Add water to the coir as the directions say. Here is a brick. Here is one with 4 quarts of water added.
4. Prepare your verm. I just put it in a jar and fill it let it soak, drain then add to a pot.
5. Now mix (I used 2 parts coir to 1 part verm). Here it is when mixed.
6. Put the mix into jars (I just use the grain jars) and pc for 1 ? hrs at 15 psi. (Once again just something I do)


Making the casing.

1. I like to pc everything. I pc the casing layer, the casing containers, the foil that goes over the top, and the spoons and forks I use to do the work.
2. I like to do the work of putting the casing together in a walk in closest that I have. I spray the shit out of the air with oust and wait a few minutes then start the work. (With a face mask)
3. I pour a little (about a half inch) of the casing layer into the container.
4. Now scoop the myc out of your jar and put it in the container on top of the bottom casing layer that you put in. Once you have the amount of colonized substrate (these casings will be 1 quart each) that you want to use even it out so it?s nice and flat on top.
5. Now add the top casing layer. (In this case ? to ? inch of casing layer) A good rule of thumb is a top casing layer ? as thick as the substrate layer.
6. Now cover (I like to use foil) and put into the incubator. Usually this last 4 to 7 days. A finished casing should look a little like this (I suggest covering the sides of clear containers to prevent side pinning. These will be left uncovered for pictures used in this post)


Time to put the casings in the chamber.

1. When the myc starts to break the casing surface is when I like to put them in the chamber . Lots of people like to patch at this time. Myself I?ve never been one for patching so in the chamber they go.
2. I like to use the tent style chamber that uses the cool mist running all the time and a ultrasonic that comes on every few hours for so many minutes.
3. This is a Martha Stewart closet and hose set up.
This is a Martha Stewart closet and hose set up.

in the box


I use the ultrasonic and cool mist. Very firm believer in air exchange.

In the electrical Dept of the hardware store I find these. and on the ultrasonic Now on the back of the closet I cut the holes for the hose fittings and put tape over them and cut holes threw the tape for the fittings. The reason for the tape is to give the closet plastic a little extra strength when holding the hose weight. The outlet for the ultrasonic goes above the cool mist outlet that way the mist from the ultrasonic drops into the air stream of the cool mist and mixes better.

4. Now that the casings are in the chamber it?s time to wait for pinning.
5. If the coir starts to get a little lighter in color it may be starting to get dry. Now is a good time to mist them with some sterile water, it?s safe to mist up to the point of pinning.

Well it's been a week and pinning has started.

A few days later

Well some of the veils are starting to tear so it'a time to think about harvesting and taking prints

1. Harvesting is easy. Just be sure to remove the whole shroom and leave none behind to rot on the casing.
2. Cover the spots that show cause of the picked shrooms with casing material and spray it down real good with the water H202 mix.
3. If you dunk your casings now would be the time.

Now I suggest you take your own prints to use

Well this is how I like to do it. I like to get my foil ready like this That way when the print is done you have these flaps to fold over.

I then get a half pint jar (wide mouth) and prepare it like this. I ditch the disk and silicone in a tyvek disk. This will allow the cap to dry a little as sits in the jar. (Which causes more spores to drop and prevents the cap from rotting. Will also allow the prints to dry once the mushroom cap is removed.)

Next put in the foil and cover with the lid. Put some foil on top and pc for one hour at 15 psi.

Now uncover and wipe off and your little print chamber is ready.

Now take the jar to your mushroom chamber and loosen the top but don?t remove it.

I like to put a pin in each of the mushroom caps I?m going to print.

Cut the shroom just below the cap and put it on the foil in the jar as fast as you can. Easy to do since the jar lid is loose.

Put it in a glovebox or where you like to do your work.

In 24 hrs open up and take out the cap by the pin (now we know what the pin is for) and put the cap back on. Let it sit for 24 hrs again to let the spores dry.

Once dry fold up foil and store in a cool dry place

I hate to clean my print foil with alcohol.


--------------------
All creatures tremble when faced with violence. All creatures fear death, all love life. If we can only see ourselves in others, then how could we possibly hurt another creature?


:growingweed: Join us at the Growery! :growingweed:

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Offlinedmc_
211

Registered: 12/23/03
Posts: 559
Loc: Portland, OR
Last seen: 18 years, 5 months
Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: Magash]
    #3507479 - 12/16/04 03:11 AM (19 years, 3 months ago)

Quote:

The main reason for the boil is to heat up the grains, so when you drain them, the rye will dry on the outside because of the heat/steam coming off the hot kernals



The main reason for the boil is so the grain will absorb as much moisture as possible. Thats why they explode, too much moisture. Simmer them until you notice a couple exploded grains. There is no guessing water to grain ratio involved this way.

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Offlineqwon
destroying angel
Registered: 08/21/04
Posts: 324
Last seen: 10 years, 11 months
Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: Magash]
    #3507485 - 12/16/04 03:24 AM (19 years, 3 months ago)

I read your tek..There is though the element of simmering vs. bringing to a boil then simmering...I read your tek on another thread here and found this step (which isn't in the above)


3. Strain the grain through a colander to get rid of the dirty water.
Put in a pot with plenty of fresh boiling water(roughly double the amount of the grain), reduce the heat and simmer for ~45 min, until the first rye kernels begin to open.

perhaps there is a difference between boiling and simmering that I'm not sure which one to follow.


--------------------
'I'm the commander see, I don't need to explain, I do not need to
explain why I say things. That's the interesting thing about being the president.
Maybe somebody needs to explain to me why they say something,
but I don't feel like I owe anybody an explanation.'
- George W. Bush

Edited by qwon (12/16/04 03:33 AM)

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InvisibleMagash
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Posts: 5,876
Loc: Near Hilo
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Re: rye tek checklist: [Re: qwon]
    #3507520 - 12/16/04 04:13 AM (19 years, 3 months ago)

Simmering is just a low boil.


--------------------
All creatures tremble when faced with violence. All creatures fear death, all love life. If we can only see ourselves in others, then how could we possibly hurt another creature?


:growingweed: Join us at the Growery! :growingweed:

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