I know this looks a bit long winded but I hope it will provide some info, have a read...
Egghead,
I posted to clarify NOT to rip on you. Gypsum is indeed Calcium Sulfate. If there is some additional Sulpher in some brands this is only because of incomplete reaction ('leftover sulpher') in the formation it is being mined from. I don't know the effect of the free sulpher on the mycelium. I would suspect it is minimal to none in the concentrations I would suspect in commercial Gypsum. Lime is Calcium Hydroxide. Calcium Carbonate, a different material, comes in many forms from ground marble to the more common source, limestone-not to be confused with lime. Other sources of Calcium Carbonate include crushed oyster shell and calcite rock. It is one of the most common minerals on earth. Pure dehydrated Lime, such as dolomitic lime for use in cement is extremely hydrophillic (water loving) making it far more reactive and can actually burn the skin in the right circumstances. It is far more reactive than hydrated lime while being the same essential substance. Hydrated lime does not have this strong attraction for water and thus is suitable for use in gardens and 'other gardens" -hehe. It is still however a strong pH buffer. Lime works like this: Lime is added to correct the pH of peat as you said. As the pH begins to drop due to further organic breakdown of the peat, more lime leaves its solid form and comes into solution and maintains the pH. This buffering will continue until there is no more available, non reacted lime. A little Lime goes a long way... Lime, hydrated or not has a very high pH in the 12.4-13.0 range depending on the form. The state it comes in (hydrated or non-hydrated) determines only the aggressiveness of the reaction. Calcium Carbonate is further down the pH scale falling a little above neutral at around 8.8. Lime and Calcium Carbonate are bases. Gypsum is A salt. And has a virtually neutral pH while still having a buffering effect. All three of these items are suitable for buffering pH in substrates and casings by understanding the goal you are trying to achieve. Lime can increase the pH of a casing considerably. I have tested the pH of 50/50+ (Hawk recipe) casings using different brands of peat. I surprisingly found the pH to be alarmingly high, falling around 10.6-11.2 depending on the peat. HOWEVER, I must say that 50/50+ works like a dream when used properly. The high pH of the casing material makes it undesirable for the mycelium to devour. Because it is an organic material, the mycelium WILL colonize it but not over consume the material. This gives 50/50+ a unique feature in that it will leave many small pockets of incapsulated peat and of course verm within the mycelium that pushes to the top. This allows the casing to be 'watered' during colonization and after flushes. There is also an abundance of Calcium available to the mushies which I infer (does someone know?) the fruiting bodies need to develop thick substantial stems and caps. One more note on 50/50+ casing: The high pH of the casing surface makes a most undesirable habitat for mold and bacteria and other contams. Gypsum is desirable in rye jars because it has TWO functions. The first is to provide buffering of the rye as it is broken down by the mycelium. Left alone, rye is slightly acidic as are most organic materials of this type. As some of the rye is broken down by the mycelium, the pH may decrease further, making the grain less desirable to the mycelium and more desirable to bacteria. The second function would be to keep the grain from clumping. Lime would not be as wise to use in rye because it would be easy to get too much and raise the pH beyond. Lime would work plenty fine if you had a little trial and error with the measurement. The inverse applies to 50/50+ casings and the like. You made the right decision NOT using gyp in your 50/50+ recipe. Gyp would not have provided the pH necessary to neutralize the peat. It would have kept the casing near neutral at best. For this reason, the gyp is great for buffering the pH of substrate because there is little threat of getting the pH too high. Calcium Carbonate can also be substituted for Gyp but is sometimes harder to find in a nice finely ground form (fine ground will greatly increase the effectiveness). Calcium Carbonate will also buffer the pH at or just below neutral. It is mild and the active ingredient in TUMS antiacid. The use of Lime in 50/50+ helps maintain the casing in it's desirable function, a source of moisture rather than a food source for the fungus. I hope this adds a little to the understanding of these three materials....peace -Rhino
Edited by TrippinRhino on 06/24/01 07:30 PM.