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Offlinepatzee
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wazthe difference between Gypsum &Hydrated Lime
    #341419 - 06/15/01 01:42 PM (15 years, 5 months ago)

I just did a 50/50+ casing tek of Ryche Hawk using the hydrated lime.
Before I found the hydrated lime, I purchased a big bag of Gypsum 100% natural
at Home Depot.The saleperson told me it was hydrated lime. When I got
home I didn't feel comfortable using it. Went to Agway for the hydrated lime.
Is there a difference or is it the same exact stuff?

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Offlineegghead
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Re: wazthe difference between Gypsum &Hydrated Lime [Re: patzee]
    #341438 - 06/15/01 02:07 PM (15 years, 5 months ago)

Did you read the packages?

gypsum is calcium, calcium sulphate and sulphur. It's a soil loosener.

hydrated lime is calcium, calcium carbonate, calcium (and other) oxides. It's used to reduce soil acidity.

Peat is naturally acidic, that why hydrated lime is ued as a pH adjuster. Gypsum is used in grain jars to keep the grain from clumping (ie. clump loosener).

Sounds like you made the best move. Sweet..



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Offlinepatzee
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Re: wazthe difference between Gypsum &Hydrated Lime [Re: egghead]
    #341444 - 06/15/01 02:15 PM (15 years, 5 months ago)

Thanks.. yes I did read the labels but I didn't know the properties of
each. Thanks for clarifying. I'll use the gypsum on my lawn or something.


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Offlinepyromaniac
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Re: wazthe difference between Gypsum &Hydrated Lime [Re: patzee]
    #341546 - 06/15/01 04:36 PM (15 years, 5 months ago)

Gypsum is also plaster of paris. It is what drywall is made out of, hence the name gypsum board. Oh, and it is mixed with water for use in patching holes in walls and puddying over the indents left in walls when you screw the sheetrock to the wall. There are other uses of course too, such as for your lawn, but these are some of the most common.

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OfflineTrippinRhino
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Here's the diff [Re: egghead] * 1
    #348046 - 06/24/01 07:21 PM (15 years, 5 months ago)

I know this looks a bit long winded but I hope it will provide some info, have a read...

Egghead,
I posted to clarify NOT to rip on you. Gypsum is indeed Calcium Sulfate. If there is some additional Sulpher in some brands this is only because of incomplete reaction ('leftover sulpher') in the formation it is being mined from. I don't know the effect of the free sulpher on the mycelium. I would suspect it is minimal to none in the concentrations I would suspect in commercial Gypsum. Lime is Calcium Hydroxide. Calcium Carbonate, a different material, comes in many forms from ground marble to the more common source, limestone-not to be confused with lime. Other sources of Calcium Carbonate include crushed oyster shell and calcite rock. It is one of the most common minerals on earth. Pure dehydrated Lime, such as dolomitic lime for use in cement is extremely hydrophillic (water loving) making it far more reactive and can actually burn the skin in the right circumstances. It is far more reactive than hydrated lime while being the same essential substance. Hydrated lime does not have this strong attraction for water and thus is suitable for use in gardens and 'other gardens" -hehe. It is still however a strong pH buffer. Lime works like this: Lime is added to correct the pH of peat as you said. As the pH begins to drop due to further organic breakdown of the peat, more lime leaves its solid form and comes into solution and maintains the pH. This buffering will continue until there is no more available, non reacted lime. A little Lime goes a long way... Lime, hydrated or not has a very high pH in the 12.4-13.0 range depending on the form. The state it comes in (hydrated or non-hydrated) determines only the aggressiveness of the reaction. Calcium Carbonate is further down the pH scale falling a little above neutral at around 8.8. Lime and Calcium Carbonate are bases. Gypsum is A salt. And has a virtually neutral pH while still having a buffering effect. All three of these items are suitable for buffering pH in substrates and casings by understanding the goal you are trying to achieve. Lime can increase the pH of a casing considerably. I have tested the pH of 50/50+ (Hawk recipe) casings using different brands of peat. I surprisingly found the pH to be alarmingly high, falling around 10.6-11.2 depending on the peat. HOWEVER, I must say that 50/50+ works like a dream when used properly. The high pH of the casing material makes it undesirable for the mycelium to devour. Because it is an organic material, the mycelium WILL colonize it but not over consume the material. This gives 50/50+ a unique feature in that it will leave many small pockets of incapsulated peat and of course verm within the mycelium that pushes to the top. This allows the casing to be 'watered' during colonization and after flushes. There is also an abundance of Calcium available to the mushies which I infer (does someone know?) the fruiting bodies need to develop thick substantial stems and caps. One more note on 50/50+ casing: The high pH of the casing surface makes a most undesirable habitat for mold and bacteria and other contams. Gypsum is desirable in rye jars because it has TWO functions. The first is to provide buffering of the rye as it is broken down by the mycelium. Left alone, rye is slightly acidic as are most organic materials of this type. As some of the rye is broken down by the mycelium, the pH may decrease further, making the grain less desirable to the mycelium and more desirable to bacteria. The second function would be to keep the grain from clumping. Lime would not be as wise to use in rye because it would be easy to get too much and raise the pH beyond. Lime would work plenty fine if you had a little trial and error with the measurement. The inverse applies to 50/50+ casings and the like. You made the right decision NOT using gyp in your 50/50+ recipe. Gyp would not have provided the pH necessary to neutralize the peat. It would have kept the casing near neutral at best. For this reason, the gyp is great for buffering the pH of substrate because there is little threat of getting the pH too high. Calcium Carbonate can also be substituted for Gyp but is sometimes harder to find in a nice finely ground form (fine ground will greatly increase the effectiveness). Calcium Carbonate will also buffer the pH at or just below neutral. It is mild and the active ingredient in TUMS antiacid. The use of Lime in 50/50+ helps maintain the casing in it's desirable function, a source of moisture rather than a food source for the fungus. I hope this adds a little to the understanding of these three materials....peace -Rhino

Edited by TrippinRhino on 06/24/01 07:30 PM.



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OfflineAnnoA
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Re: Here's the diff [Re: TrippinRhino]
    #348444 - 06/25/01 07:55 AM (15 years, 5 months ago)

Nice, very informative post.

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OfflineKanrf
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Re: Here's the diff [Re: TrippinRhino]
    #22903058 - 02/14/16 10:36 AM (9 months, 13 days ago)

Using this reply as a bookmark.  If's there's a better way please delete post and let me know.
Thank you


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OfflineNDStepp84
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Re: Here's the diff [Re: Kanrf]
    #22903111 - 02/14/16 11:00 AM (9 months, 13 days ago)

Scroll all the way down, the bottom left you will see a link that says "toggle favorites" click it. Then when you click your threads scroll down to the bottom right you will see a field box that says "home" click go and it will be there:super:


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OfflineFreeWorldOrder

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Re: Here's the diff [Re: NDStepp84]
    #22903191 - 02/14/16 11:28 AM (9 months, 13 days ago)

The hydrated lime, also known as pickling/canning lime is pretty strong stuff and is used to actually adjust PH for pete based casings. While Gypsum is more of a PH stabilizer and also helps in preventing  the clumping of grains... :thumbup:


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Edited by FreeWorldOrder (02/14/16 11:29 AM)


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OfflineKanrf
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Re: Here's the diff [Re: NDStepp84]
    #22912473 - 02/16/16 05:47 PM (9 months, 11 days ago)

Ndstepp84  Got it.

Thanks for your help.


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InvisibleInocuole
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Re: Here's the diff [Re: Kanrf]
    #22912492 - 02/16/16 05:56 PM (9 months, 11 days ago)

14 years old... one of the oldest bumps I've seen in a while.  How far we've come, that OP was like "oh no it's gypsum?  Better just use it in my lawn..."  :lol:  And now we're here using gypsum in almost everything and saving hydrated lime for casing layers.

Also what's FSR, or what was it 14 years ago?  Family support registry?


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OfflinecronicrM
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Re: Here's the diff [Re: Inocuole]
    #22912595 - 02/16/16 06:34 PM (9 months, 11 days ago)

free spore ring?


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InvisibleInocuole
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Re: Here's the diff [Re: cronicr]
    #22912599 - 02/16/16 06:35 PM (9 months, 11 days ago)

Quote:

cronicr said:
free spore ring?




Aha!  That's right.  I forgot all about that.


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